This was a quick family trip done with least planning on the insistence of my M-I-L (you know how they are has to be done then and there) we had an accidental discovery with the help of a local guide.

The trip started from Colombo early around 5AM and we took the route above stopping for breakfast at the Kurunegala rest house, place was not well maintained and had lost its old splendor. Staff was friendly. Arrived in Anuradhapura around noon, was a little hard to find the place as I had not been in a’pura for a long time. Settled in and the evening was the usual pilgrimage to Sri Maha Bodhi, Ruwanweliseya etc. The food, cooked by the owner’s mom was really good and the staff was very helpful. They even cooked the kiribath for the early morning offering to the Srimahabodhi.

Saw many birds in and around the lake such as the pheasant tailed jacana, purple swamp hen, Asian paradise flycatcher, Brahmini kite, Black hooded oriole, purple heron, white throated kingfisher, blue tailed bee-eaters, golden fronted leaf birds and common moorhen to name a few.

We left after breakfast around 10 heading to the other sites Samadhi Statue, Abhayagiriya, etc.

Now here the reason to post this report, a local boy at Isurumuniya who said he was a guide convinced my sister in law that we must see a little visited archaeological site next to the car park. We reluctantly agreed and headed there with him, access to this place had been overgrown with scrub and the civil defense force staff was clearing the area as we visited. The place is “රන්මසු උයන” (Ranmasu Uyana) This had been built in the 10th century according “වෙස්සගිරිය” (vessagiriya) inscription of Mahinda IV this is the place where Prince Saliya (son of King Dutugmunu) met Asokamala. This was their royal baths with separate chambers for the royals.

A short distance away behind ponds was the real find it is a Stargate an inscription of about 3½’ x 4’ on a stone slab, apparently created by intelligent aliens and if one mastered the symbols and signs this is a kind of an entrance for time/space travel, the Wikipedia explains this as “Stargate productions center on the premise of a “Stargate”, a ring-shaped device that creates a wormhole enabling personal transportation to complementary devices located cosmic distances away.” Similar ones are found in Egypt and Peru according to Anura Milinda, our guide.

The signboard

One of the large ponds

Private pond and rest room

Rock carving of bathing elephants

The Stargate

The canter of Stargate

A conch shell on the outer rim

This is a very interesting place and is calm and quiet on the bank of the “තිසාවැව” Thisa-wewa. Ideal for meditation and Anura Milinda is quite knowledgeable having guided many visitors from all over the world, he has many theories and it is interesting to listen to him.

So next time you all are in Anuradhapura and visiting Isurumuniya, and have an extra half hour to spare stroll over to Ranmasu uyana and the Stargate, if you can’t find it call Anura Milinda on 071-702-0655. He will be happy to oblige and take you around, and explain the hydraulic workings of the Goldfish ponds and the Stargate theories.

Visiting ritigala has been on the cards for a long time now and the closest I got was a planned trip last August but had to cancel it at the last moment due to unavoidable circumstances. Yapahuwa too has been lingering in my mind for some time but never materialized.

Due to the above reasons my initial idea was to do a 2 day trip but for that too work commitments got in the way and on the ‘thaipongal’ weekend on Saturday I hastily decided to do a one day trip the next day(Sunday) to visit the above places which I’ve never been to.

Having left Delgoda at 4am my first stop was at Dambadeniya to pick my 2 cousins.

The road condition from Kadahapola to Wariyapola was not in a good state and my target of being at Yapahuwa at about 6.30am was delayed by a bit.

Twilight past Katupotha…

Sun rise

Sun rise over the stream at Ella dewalaya..

We reached Yapahuwa by about 7.15am.

Yapahuwa

Quote from Amazing Lanka
The Yapahuwa rock and its surrounding area became the capital of the island for a short time in the 13th century. It is known that King Buvanaikabahu 1 (1273-1284) made this rock, rising loftily out of the outskirts of Kurunegala his capital. There is no mention of anything about Yapahuwa beyond 13th century in Sri Lankan historical sources.

The outer rampart	.
.	.
.	.
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Views from the top of Yapahuwa (Click Image to Enlarge)

Views from the top of Yapahuwa

After breakfast at Ambanpola we proceeded towards Galgamuwa hoping to visit Haththikuchchi viharaya as initially planned but we missed the turnoff and when asking for directions, got to know that the road leading to the viharaya was closed for repairs. The alternate route was a “parangiya kotte giya” one going around the rajanganaya wewa so we decided to visit ritigala and then go to pidurangala.

The progress from Galgamuwa onwards was slow as the road was being repaired.

Business as usual for others..

.

Ritigala

Quote from Amazing Lanka
Historically, this has been called as Arittha Pabbatha (the mountain of Aritta) which can be translated as ‘Dreadful Rock’ or ‘Safety Rock’ or even ‘Riti trees’ growing upon it. Around 3rd Century BC, Aritta , who was the Chief Minister of King Devanampiyatissa, who later was ordained as the First Sri Lankan Monk and became an Arahath, spent his monastic life at Ritigala.

There are many monastic ruins of stones, terrace ways, circular terraces, a stone bridge, and remains of a giant stone banked pond built across a water stream.

Ritigala from a distance	.
“banda pokuna”	“Banda pokuna”
.	.
.	.
.	.
Sakman maluwa	.
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Bhavana kuti

Our next destination was Pidurangala

Pidurangala

Quote from Amazing Lanka

This 13 acre extended monastery Complex illustrates religious attitude of king kashyapa (477-495 A:D) who built world renowned Sigiriya Rock Fortress during his reign. Pidurangala ancient monastery which is located adjacent to the Sigiriya rock is believed to be the Royal Temple where the king Kashyapa worshipped. According to legend when kashyapa arrive Sigiriya rock to built his rock fortress capital, the caves around here was occupied by Buddhist monks who observe meditation. The king shifted that “Sigiriya monastery complex” to Pidurangala. As the legend goes referring the meaning for “Pidurangala” as “offered+monastery+rock”. But some inscriptions says pidurangala was also a monastery beyond Kashyapa period.

According to historical chronicles, Pidurangala has been existed as a well civilized, ancient place. All these details have been well confirmed by Brahmin inscriptions, rock inscriptions on the rock shelters. More over these bear witness that this viharaya was built according to the panchavasa concept and about 500 monks resided in a pirivena (educational institute of Buddhist monks) in ancient era. Panchavasa concept is “Bodhigaraya” (boo tree chamber), “Image house”,” Chapter house”, “Dagoba”, and meditation chamber. That all has been been discovered and now restored. All area have been well surrounded by brick rampart.

Bodhigaraya	.
.	Pohoya geya
Pilima geya	.
.	Steps Leading to the Top
.

A panoramic view from the top of Pidurangala

Sigiriya from Pidurangala

Sun set

Sigiriya at sunset as seen from pidurangala

By about 7pm we were back on the road heading home after a very satisfying journey.

We chose Madu-Mannar as the destination for our year-end office trip after reading a number of trip reports on Lakdasun. We started form the suburbs of Colombo at about 12.30 in the night/morning as we had only two days to explore all interesting places that had been discussed in those reports. The crew was forty and we travelled in a 55-seater Ashok Leyland bus. As we started early, we reached Medawachchiya Rest House by 5.30 am and refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea. (Prior arrangements made to have tea so early!)

Dawn was breaking in as we turned off from A9 towards Madu along A14 and the misty surroundings made us feel as if we were travelling through the hills in up country.

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

The drive towards Madu was effortless and the road condition was superb. The only disappointment in the trip was we could not make the detour to Thanthirimale (only 8km from the main road). Actually it was not in our agenda and we saw the sign board far too late. But it would have been a wonderful experience to visit the temple at 7 in the morning!

We found an ideal place to have breakfast with the advice of Army personnel at a checkpoint. We turned towards left at Madu Police Road and after 2-3 Km came to a irrigation project called “Periyamurippu”. We had a relaxed breakfast (brought from home) and enjoyed going over a suspension bridge built recently.

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Click Image to Enlarge)	Periyamurippu Irrigation Project
The river below	The Suspension Bridge

After breakfast we proceeded towards Madu and the road was in great shape all the way up to Madu. By 8.30 we were in Madu and we spent nearly three hours enjoying the surroundings.

Madu Shrine at a distance

Inside the Shrine

We left Madu around 11a.m and proceed towards Murunkan. We stooped at the Giant Tank for a short break but could not witness any bird activity as it was almost noon. The “Jana Awanhala” operated by the Army has also closed down its operations.

Our next stop was Thirukketiswaram Kovil, a famous Hindu Kovil, which was only a few kilometers away from the main road. It was the time of the Pooja and we all took part (none being Hundu). At the end of it tasted the “Muruthan bath” – which was delicious- as well.

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

It was almost 1p.m. when we left the Kovil and we had lunch under a shady tree and proceeded towards Mannar.

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

The first attraction in Mannar was the donkeys loafing all over the town.

donkeys loafing all over the town

The huge Biobab tree nearby was the next stop

Since our crowd was large accommodation was arranged in two different places; Golden Guest Inn, Mannar and Four Tees Rest, Thodaweli (7km on Talaimanar Road). Golden Guest is a large house in the heart of the town converted into an inn. It has eight clean rooms with attached bathrooms and three have AC facilities. (Tel. 023 – 2250494) FourTees Rest (discussed many times in this forum) is away from the hustle and bustle of the town and has five large rooms in its old wing and five more double rooms in the new wing which was nearing completion when we visited early De cember. (Tel: 023-3230008)It has a spacious garden full of mango trees and the rooms are clean and well maintained. There are two ruined buildings opposite Four Tees Rest – remnants of the old Thodaweli Railway Station.

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

One of the new occupants of the station!

After a refreshing cup of tea we headed towards a nearby beach for an evening sea bath. It was a deserted beach with a few fishermen preparing their gear for the evening catch. The water was calm with hardly any waves but the Navy personnel nearby advised us not to go far. We had a dip in the warm waters till sun went down and it was so refreshing after a long day!

The deserted beach

We had a delicious dinner of string hoppers, prawn curry, parripu and sambol at Four Tees and were fortunate to witness the full lunar eclipse in the clear Mannar sky. We ended the long but very fulfilling first day of our trip with that reward.

Day 2

We planned to visit Adams Bridge and had to leave the Inn by 6 in the morning. We had only a cup of tea and Mr. Lawrance at Four Tees was kind enough to prepare sandwiches to be had on the way. We were in Talaimannar by 6.30 and it was a bright sunny morning. The early rays touching the golden beach made a lovely sight.

First sunbeams kissing the beach!	First sunbeams kissing the beach!
Eligibility for Sand Tour	Tours to Adam's Bridge (Click image to Enlarge)

The boats waiting on the golden beach

They had three boats which could accommodate 22 including children. (8+8+6). Since there were 40 in our crew half the crowd had to wait until the first group returned. The first group was given life jackets and instructions by the Navy on what and what not to. The ticket to the sand dunes – they are called Dancing Islands – as they are known to shift their position a bit – costs Rs.600/= per head and that includes a picnic snack and a bottle of water to be had on the way. Each boat was given a lifesaver in addition to the Navy person who operated it. So safety was ensured.

Boats ready to leave the shore

Young travelers eagerly waiting with picnic bags!

The one hour long boat ride was most enjoyable in the morning golden sun. There were many larks and seagulls around and we saw fish jumping on the waves. Our three boats were accompanied by a special life saving boat so there was hardly anything to worry – even if the boat topples there were many to save you!!

Urumalai Beach fading away

Enjoying the boat ride

The lifesaving boat accompanying our three boats

We landed on the second sand dune and spent a wonderful half-an-hour there. It had shallow pools everywhere and we saw some eggs may be laid by the sea-gulls. A different kind of grass and some flowering plants were the only vegetation on the island. It was a unique experience.

Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Patterns of nature	Patterns of nature

A young traveler on a lonely planet!

Mount Everest on the lonely planet

Crossing Nanthikadal???	Young explorers!
Life on the island	Life on the island
Heaven on earth…..	.

As we were about bid good bye to the miracle island our second group arrived. Luck was on our side that day. A bigger boat had come there as a ‘test ride’ and the rest of our crew had been brought in that boat. That saved us nearly three hours. Had not been for the unexpected the big boat, the second group would still be on the shore waiting for our return to get into a boat!

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

Thanks to the Navy all forty of us were safely back on the shore by 10 O’clock – before the harsh Talaimannar sun could show its full force.

After that most enjoyable boat trip we headed back to Four Tess, refreshed ourselves and bid good bye to Mr.Lawrance thanking him for making our stay comfortable.

We collected lunch packets from Choice Restaurant in the town. (023-2223261) Since we had given the order in advance the packets were ready for us. Must commend the food at Choice – it was delicious.

We returned on A 14 and turned towards Silavathura from Murunkan and up to Silavathura the road was in good shape. From Silavathura we turned to the right and headed towards Arrippu. It was a gravel road in bad shape running along the beach. We visited Doric House and had our lunch there.

Doric House at Arippu	The ruins
Our bus from Doric House	Doric Tower

After lunch we proceeded towards Vilpattu. We were concerned about the road condition via Vilpattu and made inquiries at a number of check points and at the Silavathura Police station. As we were given the green light we proceeded. After travelling along the gravel road full of pot holes for nearly two hours we reached the Marichchukaddi Check Point. It was past four and the response at the checkpoint reg. road condition was not positive at all. They warned us that it had rained inside the jungle and a number of vehicles got stuck in mud. But it was too late to turn back and our two experienced drivers were ready to take the challenge and we decided to proceed. We were passionate to pass through the jungle. The army at the check point warned us that we had to cross nearly 40 km of thick jungle and that we will be cut off from all communication – no phone signals inside the jungle. We understood the gravity but had no option but to proceed. I feel the Silavathura Police Station should be more aware of the road condition and this advice should be available at that point so that a traveler could go back to Murunkan and proceed via Anuradhapura without exposing himself to greater risks. Turning back at Marichchukaddi is a total waste.

Although Mannar did not receive rain during that weekend Vilpattu jungle had received rain. It was not raining when we proceeded but the muddy road witnessed previous rains. The road condition was getting worse from each step and it was becoming slippery. Although we had two very experienced drivers they had to try very hard to keep the bus on the road. We all were praying that the road condition would improve but our prayers were never answered. All we could see was the muddy road lying ahead looking more like a swamp.

The muddy road ahead….	Its 5 in the evening and we are still crawling through the mud….
Mud….mud….and more mud…More like a swamp than a road	Navigating through the slippery road…..

Although our drivers did their best and navigated through the mud bath we got stuck thrice and each time it took nearly ½ hour to 45 minutes to pull the bus out of mud – it being a giant 55 seater Ashok Leyland. It was getting dark and we were still in the middle of thick jungle without any modes of communication with the outside word. We were beginning to question the decision we took, but it was too late.

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

The sun went down and we had nearly 20 more kilometers to cross. The drivers had taken the challenge well and were doing all they could to avoid getting stuck another time. As the sun went down their task became more and more difficult and we all were praying for safety.
It was pitch dark when the bus got stuck the last time and it was too dangerous to get out as we were in the thick jungle. But a few got off with torches in their hands. It was past 7.30 and all our phones were dead. To our great relief we saw a light ahead and saw some people walking towards us. It was a troop of army personnel doing their routine patrol and they were travelling in a “unicorn”. They were from the Illavankulam Check Point. They were god sent saviors and with great effort they helped us out of the mud. We were told that Illavankulam was about a 45-minute drive. That was a great relief and we proceeded in the dark. The road condition improved thereafter but we had to cross one last barrier – a narrow causeway over Kala Oya – over which water was running about 1 foot high. It was so narrow that we all feared for safety. But our experienced driver was able to navigate through that last barrier successfully and we all cheered with relief when we reached the Check Point.

It was past nine when we reached Puttalam and we stopped at a Appa Kade and had our dinner. It was past midnight when we came to our destination – completing two full days of fun and excitement. It was a miracle that we did not have to spend the night in the middle of the Vilpattu jungle. May be we were blessed as we worshiped Madu as well as the Thirukkethiswaram Kovil on our way!

The wild explorers!

This trip was done some time back in 2009, but still I cherish the memorable experience of this fantastic place. The other reason which prompted me to write this report is to clear the erroneous doubts among the members of this forum about the ‘bookings getting cancelled’.

You can reserve this place in advance but they accept money and confirm your reservation only two weeks before the arrival date. Once you pay, your booking is confirmed and there is very rare chance of getting it cancelled.

We started from Gampaha and came to Galewela through Kurunegala/Dambulla road and turned left at Galewela junction and drove another 20 Km to reach this magnificent place.

This is an extremely isolated place, surrounded by huge Kala wewa and blessed with the cool and continuous breeze throughout the day. I have stayed in many government circuit bungalows but I have no hesitation in ranking this place as one of the best. This place is very well maintained. Rooms, bathrooms and the garden are kept spotless. There are five A/C rooms with attached bathrooms, with H/C water. Meals are provided at a very nominal rate. Entire house is Rs 7500/= for one day. If you wish you can book even one room for Rs 1500/=. You can reserve this place from Mahaweli Authority Head office at Colombo. Tele 0112687491-5. Call Miss. Suba on 4th floor. I spoke to her recently and she said ‘Bookings getting cancelled’ is a false rumor. She is handling this subject for the past one year and there wasn’t a single cancellation so far.

This bungalow was built for a British Governor and then it was renovated for Queen Elizabath who came to Sri Lanka in 1981. Originally, it was a three roomed bungalow and in 2001 the VIP lounge with another two rooms were built in same premises.

Front view of the bungalow

Newly built VIP lounge

This magnificent tank Kalawewa which is the best engineered irrigation scheme of the ancient world and having a circumference of 40 miles, was built by king Dathusena who ruled the country from 455 AD to 473 AD. He built 18 irrigation tanks and also the Yoda Ela (Jaya ganga), a canal which carry water from Kalawewa to Tisawewa.

King Dathusena’s son Kassapa (who built Seegirya) rebelled against his father and jailed him to grab the throne. Kassapa believed that his father had vast amount of hidden treasures and threatened him to show them. Then Dathusena had taken Kassapa to Kalawewa and showed the water in it and said ‘This is the only treasure I earned so far’. Kassapa got annoyed with this and killed his father by plastering him to the bund of Kalawewa.

According to some inscriptions seen around the bunglow, Kalawewa had been renovated twice in A.D.1887 and A.D.1939, during the period of D.S.Senanayaka as Minister of Agriculture.

Renovated in A.D. 1887	Renovated in A.D. 1939
Giant Kalawewa seen from the bungalow	Footsteps from the bungalow to Kalawewa

This is an excellent bathing place and you can walk more than 200 meters deep into the Kalawewa safely. The cool dip in kalawewa went on for more than three hours.

Whole Kalawewa was ours’

After getting soaked for more than three hours we had a late lunch around 3 pm. Then we had a walk around Kalawewa and noticed most parts of the kalawewa were dried off, as there was no rain for few months

Dried off and the Water levels were low	Lonely
Gift of nature, on the bund of Kalawewa	One of the spillway of Kalawewa

In the evening we went to Anuradhapura and it was an one hour(60 KM) drive from this place through Kekirawa. As it was late in the evening we visited very few places. When we came back to the bungalow it was around 9.00 pm. Then we all sat down outside the bungalow for a sing song which kept all of us alive until the dinner is ready.

Ruwanweli Seya	Sri Maha Bodiya
Lowa Maha Paya	Sing song under moon light

Next day we visited Avukana statue which is only ten minutes drive from this place. This colossal standing Budda statue with a height of 46 feet is located at the west of Kalawewa and carved out of a single rock, is another wonderful work of king Dathusena. This statue was carved in such a way that early rays of the rising sun hit the top of the statue and it looks though the statue was eating the first rays of the rising sun. Hence it was named ‘Avukana’ as ‘Avu’ means ‘awwa’ (Sun rays) and ‘Kana’ means eating. Therefore the best time of the day to view this statue is dawn. This statue is a magnificent creation of the master sculptor named ‘Barana’. But some folklore says the sculptor is unknown. The robe worn tightly with neat pleats and clearly outlining the shape of the body was gracefully carved from a rough coarse rock. This merely explains the excellence of the Sri Lankan craftsmanship. This is one of the best handcrafts of ancient Sri Lankan artists.

While we were at Avukana statue, all of a sudden an unexpected flock of white storks invaded the place and intensified the serenity of the statue.

A flock of white storks invaded Unexpectedly

The robe worn tightly with neat pleats and clearly outlining the shape of the body

From Avukana we headed towards ‘Resvehera’ (also call Sesuruwa) through Galnewa, a less known historic rock temple, which is about 20 KM away from this place. First part of the road from Galnewa was narrow but fine with huge trees and faddy fields on both sides of the road. Last few kilo meters were gravel and dusty, but can manage even with a law clearance vehicle.
This temple which is situated in a sanctuary in North Western province with an extent of 1468 acres, was built during the reign of King Devanam Piyatissa in 237 BC. Ancient rock inscriptions found in this place prove that there were 99 rock caves and 365 buddhist monks had lived in it.

There are two Budda statues, one was standing and the other reclining. The standing statue with a height of 42 feet is similar to that of Avukana but does not have the same finish. The workmanship looks inferior and it appears that it was left in an unfinished state of sculpturing for some unknown reason. The reclining statue with a length of 39 feet is found inside a cave. This is the only reclining Budda statue in a rock temple where pilgrims could walk right round it.

Standing statue, workmanship looks inferior

An ancient bed found inside a cave

The reclining statue with a length of 39 feet is inside a cave

The Bo tree which is a sapling that was brought from Jaya Siri Maha Bodi is spreading its branches around and standing majestically in front of the shrine cave. This Bo tree is protected by a three meter tall 4 layers of tightly packed stones.

Bo tree is spreading its branches around and standing majestically	‘Makara thorana’ (Dragon’s painting) of the Image house
Shrine cave	Chief priest Rev Nugegoda Vajiratissa Thero

Rev. Vajiratissa Thero, is supporting the poor villagers of the area and requests pilgrims to help with donations especially for school children with books, pencils etc.

Next day on our way back we stepped into Vijithapura Raja Maha Viharaya another historic place which is just fifteen minutes drive from this circuit bungalow towards Kekirawa.
The final battle between King Dutugemunu and king Elara had taken place here. Vijithapura was a highly fortified stronghold of king Elara.
King Dutugemunu who was ascended to the throne after the death of his father king Kawantissa (King of Ruhuna) had arrived with his army from down south. On the way they have captured number of forts and cities that were under King Elara. Finally they attacked this stronghold Vijithapura with the help of his ten champions (ten giant warriors) and the royal elephant Kandula and became the king of Anuradhapura, bringing the entire country under his rule.

Although there is no much historic evidence, the temple is littered with old ruins. The most interesting out of these is the ‘Kadu Ge Gala’ (කඩු ගෑ ගල), a granite stone used by Dutugemunu’s soldiers to sharpen their swords. This stone shows that it had been used heavily.

Kadu Ge Gala (කඩු ගෑ ගල)

Image house of Vijithapura

From Vijithapura we drove back home on the same route

Thank You for reading this report.

When the Sun emitted his first rays of the day; it was captivated scenery of a group of elders in white; walking along the narrow road lay on the dame of a village tank. It was the first full moon day of the year (Duruthu poya day). Those devotees were moving towards the village temple located at the far end of the reservoir. Kathnoruwa, the village I had been; was another live example for the ancient concept of Wewayi-Dagabayi Gamayi-Pansalayi (the relationship between tank, pagoda, village (people) & the temple).

The village tank at Kathnoruwa was the last reservoir fed by the Mahaweli multipurpose project. As a result of that, it was always having sufficient water, which made the economy of the farmers much better than the same ones in nearby villages. The electric fence built against wild elephants was also played a vital role for the same.

a group of elders in white; walking along the narrow road	The village tank at Kathnoruwa
Good morning….	Life is simple

By this morning; Chamila (my wife) and I had become special guests of Hemantha, one of my University mate living at Kathnoruwa. Having a cool dip at the village tank before the brake-fast, we decided to explore the area. First travel location of the day was Sasseruwa. It was a historic Buddhist temple located less than 10km from Kathnoruwa. Though the gravel road got muddy due to the rain received few days back, the poor van was capable enough to manage the same without harm.

“Vie bissa” (වී බිස්ස ) seen at Kathnoruwa

On our way to Sesseruwa

Sasseruwa was famous due to existence of a giant statue of Lord Buddha. It was carved with a natural rock; very similar to the statue of Aukana. Further, it was believed that both were built in same period with same techniques. Comparing with Aukana, the statue at Sesseruwa was less finished in crafting while not having a “Siraspatha”. Folk says both statues were built by the Guru (master) & the Golaya (student) as a part of a competition. At the end of the day, less skilled disciple was lose and not able to complete the carving before his master who did the statue at Aukana.

The Giant statue of Lord Buddha at Sesseruwa

Few caves out of them were converted to houses of images in Kandy era

In addition to that magnificent statue, there were 99 drip-ledged caves used by monks for meditation. Few caves out of them were converted to houses of images in Kandy era. It was believed that a holy snake (Cobra) was there for protecting the houses of images.

Inside of a house of statues built in Kandy era	Living place of the holy snake (Cobra) ?
Pagoda at Sasseruwa

We visited Hasthi-kuchchi at Giribawa as our second travel location of the day. It was a pleasure that the archeological site had been much developed than my previous visit made in 20 years ago. The total complex was managed by the Dept. of Archeology. As per the officers of the same, this complex was believed as the real place where the King Sirisangabo’s sacrifice of life was occurred. But since they were not yet able to prove it with strong evidence such as an inscription, they have not officially published the same.

Entrance of the archeological site

As per them; existence of a huge rock appeared as a sleeping elephant had been caused to name the place as “Hasthi-Kuchchi”. Further; a number of inscriptions were also found on it.

There were many ponds built throughout the complex in various eras, facilitating Bhikkhu (monks). Therefore archeologists believed that Hasthikuchchi had been a leading temple/institution of the country in Kings Era.

Scientific clarification on Hasthi-Kuchchi

The huge rock appeared as a sleeping elephant

And also it was identified that Hasthi-Kuchchi had been located closed to a leading ancient route; most probably started from Anuradhapura. The rocky trap visible in a distance provided good evidence for that.

The rocky trap visible in a distance

At the Bodhigaraya builing, there was a special structure made with bricks which had many signs to represent a torso. Archeologists believed the statue as a tomb of a Bodhi-Sathwa. However that was located few meters away from where the fallen torso would be found if the King Sangabo sacrificed his life at the cave believed to be used by him.

Ruins of the “Bodhigharaya” building	The special structure made with bricks which had many signs to represent a torso
The cave (see above) believed where the king had meditated	The cave

Having observing the house of statue done in Kandy era, we proceeded further. The paths of meditation made with granite were still in good condition.

Paths & bridges made with granite

Having climbing few more steps, we reached the cave believed to be used by the King Sirisangaboo. According to the legends, the cave used by the king had a pond which would not be exposed to sun & moon. Proving the same, there was a pond under the shade of the cave which was believed to be 60ft in depth.

the rocky plane at the eastern side of the cave where a priest can meditate in the evening times

You can easily observe the Ruwanwali Seya (Locate the white dot)

And also folk says the King used to meditate in the evening times looking at the Swarnamali Chayithya at Anuradhapura. You can easily observe the Ruwanwali pagoda from the eastern opening of this cave and you can meditate there only in the evening time, otherwise you will be beaten by morning sunrays.

Pond which would not be exposed to sun & moon

On the other hand, the western opening would be used by the priest for meditation in the morning times. Since it was faced to the ancient road, the passenger would able to see the priest accidentally when he was getting ready to have his lunch.

the western shade believed to be used by the priest for meditation in the morning times

Further, folk says that the passenger had reached there from Anuradhapura. He had travelled the whole distance on foot since that morning. Originally this place is located nearly 14 miles from Anuradhapura and that is realistic.

Though there are much minor evidences, why our archeologists not yet able to discover a major evidence (such as a rock inscription) to prove this place as the real Attanagalla where the King Sirisangabo’s sacrifice of life is occurred? The answer is clear. Archeologists believe it is happened due to a political reason. When the King Gothabhaya visited the site and discovered the torso, he might pay his full respect & ordered to convert the site to a temple to memorize his brother. That was politics. Since making a memorial temple would help to retard increasing trends against the new King. But he would not want to be guilty among his citizens, for the death of his Bodhisathwa brother. Therefore he might not put any inscription or strong evidence at the site so that let Sinhala people to forget it even from the history.

The huge tank at Siyambalangamuwa

Our last travel location of the day was the huge tank at Siyambalangamuwa. It was much popular due to the death of the Siyambalangamuwa tusker (We paid our visit in January 2011. That unfortunate incident was occurred few weeks later). The tank had a huge rocky plane which was ideal for camping. You can drive a vehicle up to the rocky plane, where would not meet any molestation but an electric fence against wild elephants.

The huge tank at Siyambalangamuwa

The tank had a huge rocky plane which was ideal for camping

Early morning on Friday we started from Colombo and headed straight to Back of Beyond – Gurugoda. We were greeted by Ajith and Anverdeen (a veteran trekker with excellent knowledge about Yala) along with Priyanjan who were waiting there to join the four day excursion to explore, particularly the block two of Yala national park. Yohan’s Nissan Patrol and Ajith’s Land Rover were quickly loaded with supplies and we left straight away to Palatupana Entrance.

At Back of Beyond - Gurugoda

Formalities at the park office did not take long. Wildlife department guide assigned to us was Premarathne. Premarathne is one of the most expreinced guides in service at the department today and he claimed that he is a descendant of Henry Engelbrecht, the first park warden of Yala. Well, he knew Yala well but largely his attitude and certain behaviors did not make us very comfortable with him.

Leaving park office we drove along the Yala main road to paranaganthota (a.k.a Parana Thotupola) where we crossed Menik River and entered Block 2. Our camp site was “Nuga Sevana”, one of the newer camp sites established on the bank of the river. It was only a couple hundred meters away from Paranaganthota (පරන ගං තොට).

Location of the camp site was good, particularly because of its proximity to the river. The river was so inviting with shallow flowing water and clean sandy bottom so that we couldn’t resist a long bath under the shade of giant Kumbuk trees every day! One of the negatives of the camp site’s location was its proximity to the Paranaganthota which is the designated resting place for day visotrs to Yala Block I. On Saturday and Sunday we got disturbed by their noise occasionally. Also there are couple other camp sites on the either banks of the river in some what close proximity. If a party at any one of the camp sites does not behave well, that tend to disturb the rest of the sites. On one of the nights we could hear people singing at one of the other camp sites (most likely Kosgasmankada). Wonder why the wildlife guide who should have been with them did not stop them.

It took some time for us to setup our tents. We had quite a number of them.

Crossing Over to Block 2 at Parana Gan Thota	At Nuga Sewana Camp Site
Menik River bordering the camp site	So obviously this is what we did for hours EVERY day

After setting up tents we had lunch we brought form BOB-Gurugoda. After lunch we relaxed a bit, and set out for the first drive in block 2. Passing Yala wela (යාල වෙල), we drove up to Katupila Ara (කටුපිල ආර).

Yala Wela with Maliththan Trees scattered

Water level in Katupila ara was too high for a vehicle to cross it safely at the usual crossing point. This is a usual occurance, particulalry in the dry season, when river mouth gets blocked with sad, forcing water to build up upstream.

Katupila Ara - Water Level was high due to closed river mouth

Mangrove Roots, Katupila Ara

We had to drive couple of kms  upstream to find a suitable crossing point with less water and we did a hassle free cross over to the other side.

Having crossed Katupila Ara, we drove back along the opposite bank of it and got back on the main road. Passing vast, dry, open, sandy sections of Pilinnawa Eliya (පිළින්නාව එලිය) we drove along the main road towards Kumbukkan Oya. On our list to see were fresh water wells at Pahala Poththana (also known as the Navaladi wells in Paada Yatra) and Uda Poththana Modara (උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

As soon as we entered Block 2, we immediately noticed two remarkable differences in the animals we saw, compared to block 1. The first was the size of herds of Deer, Buffalow and Boar. Every herd we saw had many dozens of animals which was a great sight to see. The second was their unfamiliarity with vehicles. Every creature we saw would start running like mad as soon as it saw our vehicles!

We came across large groups of Deer, Buffaloes and Boar but all of them were on the run!

A Large group of Wild Boar, again running like crazy for the dear life!

Occasionally there were "Brave Hearts" as well

We drove mostly  along the main road through scrub forest typical in the area. Passing open areas at Uda Poththana (උඩ පොත්තන), we drove further down towards Pahala Poththana (පහළ පොත්තන). To reach fresh water wells, one should deviate from the main road towards right, just before entering open areas at Pahala Poththana.

We first reached the place where there are three fresh water wells together. It immediately brought back memories of Pada Yatra we did couple of months back. While on Paada Yatra we spent couple of hours resting at this very same place. The only difference this time was that the huge Dun trees in the vicinity were full of fruits!

The three Wells

Dun Trees were full of Fruits

Signs of Pada Yatra

Signs of Pada Yatra

We left the three wells and drove few hundred meters further to reach another freshwater well. We were pelasantly surprised to find another hudge Dun tree full of fruits there as well. The Dun we found were much more tastier than what we had before .

Yummmmmmy!

Leaving fresh water wells we started our journey back along the main road. It was late in the afternoon and the light was perfect for photos.

Malabar Horn Bill in Flight	Herd of Spotted deer paused their mad run briefly and posed beautifully against the light
Harsh Dry Environment was certainly not forgiving the weak	Driving on the "Death Valley" - Uda Poththana
Spikes and the Spider Web	Closed River mouths force water to accumulate upstream like this, sustaining life in a death valley even during the height of the dry season

Once we returned to Uda Poththana area, which is supposed to be an abandoned saltern, we turned left from the main road and drove towards the sea to explore the river mouth (Uda Poththana Modara – උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) and the Estuary. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

We parked close to the beach and explored the area. With pure white sand and calm water of the Estuary bathing in the late afternoon light, it was such a beautiful sight to see.

Sky, Sand, Water and exposed Corals - Uda Poththana Modara

Magical setup at Uda Poththana Modera kept photographers busy!

Lonely "Krishan Putha" at Uda Poththana Modara; most likely brought here by the Tsunami

We tried to locate “earthened wells” some of the previous travellers had described at Uda Poththana but we couldn’t locate any signs of them. Both Anverdeen and Premarathne were of the opinion that those must have been washed away by the Tsunami as they had been located very close to water.

The day was coming to an end. We started our journey back to the camp site. On our way back we saw fresh paw marks of a leopard on the jeep track but were not luky to see it.

Fresh Paw Marks on the Jeep Track

Heading back to Camp Site

Day 2

We left the camp site early morning on Saturday. The Plan was to explore Pilinnawa sand dunes and “Miniha gal Kanda (මිනිහාගල්කන්ද)”.

We crossed Katupila Ara and reached Pilinnawa Eliya driving along the main road. Then we turned right towards the sea and drove until we reached Agara Ara (ආගර ආර). Turning left at Aragara Ara, we continued to drive along the bank of the Ara until we found a point where we could safely cross over to the other side (just like Katupila Ara, water level was high in Agara Ara too; both share the same river mouth). Once we crossed the Ara we tackled some steep climb up to the sand dune and parked right at the base of it. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

Parked at the Sand Dune at Pilinnawa

The sea is right there on the other side

It was very early in the morning (just past 6.00 a.m.). Sun had just started to emerged from the sea (Yes, we were in the east coast!). We climbed up the sand dune and reached the undisturbed, beautiful beach on the other side. To reach Miniha Gal Kanda we had to walk 2.1km along the beach. We thoroughly enjoyed this early morninng walk on the beatiful, undisturbed, remote beach. On our right had side it was the Indian Ocean meeting the horizon and on our left was the tall sand dune with perfect patterns created by wind, complimented by dune vegetation.

Sand Dunes complimented by dune vegetation

Rising Sun and the Ocean

The Walk; looking for the "lonely man in the beach"

Patterns on Sand and the colorful rock formations

Closer look at the patterns

……and the man came to our sight!

The rock was certainly resembling a man looking towards the vast ocean in a relaxed posture with his hands on the hips. “Miniha Gal Kanda” is said to be an ancient Coral reef which had been elevated from water a long time back and since then had been eroded by the wind and water to create some unique shapes like this “lonely man”. It is constantly changing, as per Anverdeen, who has seen the lonely man for more than half a century now,the man used to be even more prominent before.

The Lonely Man by the Sea - Miniha Gal Kanda

This is what the man is made of - A coral reef elevated from the sea many million years ago

The area immediately around the man was a fascinating geological formation. Continuous erosion of lose rock have created massive, roughly semi-circular craters with vertical walls. The rock wall was a live demonstration of what lies underneath, a perfect cross section with clearly segregated layers of earth in different colours. Travelers who visited the area before had called these gigantic craters “Amphitheaters” and they had described three of them.

One of the Gigantic Amphitheaters

Vertical Rock wall with layers of earth in different colours

We spent some times exploring the “Amphitheaters”. The rocks were so fragile and would trun in to powder with the ligthest pressure applied. Again Anverdeen recalled that the rock walls had changed drastically over the past few decades due to continuous erosion.

Travel literature describes three Amphitheaters along the coast. Even though we thought we saw all three,  Priyanjan’s studies of Google earth images afterwards suggests that we may have seen only the first one, or the first and the second. Certainly future visits are on plans to Verify

From the base of the Amphitheater

More like Martian Land than Earth

We also found evidence supporting the elevated coral reef theory. Hard shells of sea creatures could be seen trapped in lose rock. They appeared to be in some stage of fossilization.

Lose rocks that formed Amphitheaters

Evidence of early day sea life - Are these shells in some stage of Fossilization?

The sun was rising and the whole area was starting to heat up. Since we had a 2km walk back along the beach, we started our walk back by 8.15 a.m.

Light was getting Harsh

But photo opportunities were not all exhausted

A long the beach we walked back to where we started. Rather than walking back to the vehicles, we decided to continue the walk along the beach to reach the place where the Estuary opens up to the sea. We were also looking for an archaeological site where some stone pillars are said to be there. Again Anverdeen and Premarathna were able to show us the stone pillars scattered in the scrubs.

Pilinnawa Modara (Pellussa Modara) - Where water form Menik Ganga, Katupila Ara and Agara ara meets the sea

Two of the Stone Pillars. We saw couple more standing in the scrub forest close to the Modara

Estuary at Pilinnawa

Estuary at Pilinnawa - from another view point

We then returned to our vehicles. Getting them out of the dunes was not that straight forward!

Sand Dune 4X4 Action

Getting the Land Rover out of it was not that Straightforward

We drove back along the same track we came, crossed Agara Ara and approached the Estuary from the side of it. We found a large tree under which we settled down for breakfast.

Egg + Some sort of sauce + cheese sandwhich - Near Pillinnawa moya

After breakfast we returned to the main road and again continued along it towards Kumbukkan Oya. The plan this time was to explore “Mahirawa – මහිරාව” where a camp site from the hunting days with a waterhole that persists through the dry season were supposed to exist.

Passing Uda Poththana and Pahala Pothathana, we drove up to Ethiliwela Eliya (ඇතිලිවෙල එලිය).

At Pahala Poththana we drove passing the lonely Dan tree, known as “Boer’s Tree” which is said to be where Henry Engelbrecht (The first Park warden of Yala National park during the colonial era) used to camp. (View  Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ) )

"Boer's Tree" at Pahala Poththana where Henry Engelbrecht said to have camped.

Ethiliwela Eliya is another open, dry stretch of land around an Estuary (The water ways that feed this estuary are Athurumithuru Ara – අතුරුමිතුරු ආර and Nabadagas Ara – නාබඩගස් ආර).  Again we turned right towards the sea and drove around Ethiliwela Kalapuwa (Lagoon) in an attempt to reach Mahirawa beach. Again, water bodies were pretty full and we could not approach the sea. We parked beneath a large Dun (දං) tree, again full of fruits, and decided to have lunch there.

The five Dead Bodies! (and the authorities discussing how to dispose them)- After Lunch at Mahirawa

We did not particularly attempt to locate the fresh water hole or the camp site. Water levels was restrictive and we had no specific clues to look for on the ground. Anverdeen and Premarathne were also not too sure about the exact location of the campsite/water hole.

After some rest at Mahirawa, we headed towards “Walas Kema – වලස් කෙම”, another camping location said to have been frequented by the hunters in early 1900 when Yala was a game reserve.

At Walaskema we found a large rock scattered with several water holes (Kemas), most of them had water even in this height of the dry season. View from  top of Walaskema was nice too. Also there were signs of steps cut in the rock surface leading to one of the water holes. May be work of hunters or can this also be an archelogocal site?

Walaskema - Three of the water holes in the rock bed	View from the top - Walaskema
.	Clean Bones of a beast, according to Anverdeen and Premarathne it is not uncommon for animals to fall in to these waterholes or get ambushed by a waiting leopard in their desperate search for water in dry season

On our return journey to the camp site we explored the large earth mound right by the jeep track, close to Katupila Ara, known as “Weheragodella – වෙහෙරගොඩැල්ල”. The inch maps shows a Dagaba in ruins here but we couldn’t locate any signs of it. The soil and the rokcs appeared to be different in color and heavier than ususal. The surrounding and the rocks reminded us of a large meteorite impact site.

Weheragodella as seen from the main road	Climbing up
View from the top	Unusually heavy, colored Rocks - Can this be a Meteorite impact site

Leaving Weheragodella we came back to the camp site along the usual track. A gentle giant proved that our decision not to cross Katupila Ara at the usual crossing point was a very rational one!

Crossing the road between the two Jeeps

Getting in to Katupila Ara

Crossing over to the other side - as you can see there was enough water to submerge this giant so a vehicle crossing the Ara at this point is impossible

Day 3

We had explored most of the key places in the block 2 during past two days. Several other places we wanted to see were lying in areas not open to visitors (inside the strict nature reserve) and we did not want to break any rules. Also the drives in block 2 did not give us opportunities to observe wildlife. Therefore we decided to dedicate the third day to explore block 1.

An elephant feasting early morning at Buthawa lake

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Driving by the Elephant Rock also know as Akasa Chaithya - You can see ruins of two Dagabos at the top of this rock

An egret

A common Kingfisher

Early Morning at Parana Gan Thota

As we return to the camp site after the morning drive, we were called up on to help a jeep stuck in Katupila Ara.  Some 4X4 craze had foolishly attempted to cross the Ara from the wrong point. They had no guide with them and had not got proper permission to enter block 2 even! Apparently he drove the jeep in to the water with women and kids on board just of the fun of it and and ended up like this!

Stupid and Irresponsible are the most suitable words to describe the situation

We Pulled it out. Since the vehicle could not be started, they had to tow it out of the park with the help of the other vehicle which accompanied them

After breakfast Anverdeen shared some of his experience with us. It was very interesting to listen to him. We were particularly interested to find about  ”Ali manthara – අලි මංතර” from Anverdeen. Our conclusion on  අලි මංතර was that it is the aggressive and dominant behavior demonstrated by the person who chants the Mantra that deter the elephant, not the Mantra it self!

How about some sweets after breakfast - we had a load of sweets

Anverdeen Relating a Story

Around 3.00 p.m. we again headed towards Block 1 in anticipation of seeing more wildlife. It certainly was a good start with a peacock in full display.

Beautiful Display

The next sighting was this bear. It was feasting on Maliththan seeds and we watched it in close range for a quite long time

Bear feasting on "Maliththan" seeds

Closer look

Leaving the bear we drove towards Darshana wewa (Modaraagala Digana Wewa). On our way, we came across a family of yellow wattled lapwings. Two parent birds and their three little chicks. As soon as the parent’s saw us approaching, they forced the little ones under their wings. One of the chicks however kept coming out despite the parent bird’s desperate attempts to keep it under the cover.

Mother's protection - One chick is already hidden (you can only see its legs) and another one is hurrying in!

One brave chick kept coming out despite its mothers desperate attempt to keep it under the cover

By the time we reached Darshana Wewa it was late in the after noon. We drove along the earth bund enjoying the tranquility.The place looked very calm and quite with only some birds and couple of crocs in the vicinity.

Crocodiles at Darshana Wewa

1...2...3....

The silence did not last for long. A herd of elephants (with young) got in to water form the opposite bank of the lake. They walked right in to the middle of the lake and started drinking and bathing. It was such a lovely sight to see . The herd would keep the little ones right in the middle of the pack and would chase away anything that came close to the herd, including birds and even Crocs, quite aggressively.

The herd walking in to water with Young in the Middle

Enjoying the cool dip - All what the Croc could do was to watch

Drinking.....

After some time, the herd decided to get out of water. Again, chasing anything and everything that came in their way, the whole group came out of the lake.

Walking out of water

" Being BIG means a lot" - this young calf learnt it first hand (it was just a mock charge and there were no casualties!)

The herd then started spreading sand/dust all over them and we decided to leave them alone.

With the last rays of  sun hiding behind the tree line, we returned to the camp site with exciting memories of the day.

Sun Setting behind the tree line over a lake

Day 4

It was the final day!

We decided to do a one last round in Block 1. The very first destination of the morning was “Padikema – පඩි කෙම” rock to see whether the famous “Rukvila” cubs are around. Sure enough, they were there.

Wake up brother

Jumping out of the bed!

The play continued at the base of the rock

Siblings In Actions!

.	Walking against the Light

It was such an amazing sight to see!

The place started to become congested with more and more jeeps gathering there to see the cubs. Therefore we decided to leave them and explore more of the park.

Seen on the opposite side of "Padikema" rock	Flowers seen close to Patanangala beach
Buthawa Lake	More early morning activity

The last treat of the trip was again a herd of elephants. This time, they were busy playing on a newly built bund of a tank (breaking a good part of it in the process!)

Pushing and Pulling	A closeup
Colorful Dust Bath	.
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Well it was time to say goodbye to all the wonderful things at Yala. We left the paradise behind and faced the relaity of having to go to the office and start work on the following day

Ampara had been in the ‘to do’ list for far too long. Untidy circles and notes scribbled in red permanent ink makes reading my maps of the Ampara area quite a difficult task. There is such a lot to see and I had not seen any of it. Was waiting for a chance to scoot off to Ampara.

Day One
A call from a friend took me in the direction of Barons’ Cap. Well that’s what the Surveyors named it. For the people in the area it’s Kudumbimalai. As a direct result of the idiot box (OK… TV) the rest of the country (including me) calls it Toppigala.

Destination

It was Deepavali and the kovils I passed were full of activity. A good day to photograph kovil activity. Unfortunately, time (the lack of it) did not allow me to make any photo stops. Had to be satisfied with giving a lift to a group of ladies in bright coloured sarees, hands covered with bangles and flowers entangled in their hair…… obviously late for the pooja! They told me that there were no buses…. Lame excuse….. Surely the reason had to be extra time spent ‘dressing up’.
Maps opened, compasses out….. The measurements taken calculations made indicate a distance of 2.5 km on a bearing of 321 degrees magnetic that’s to the base of the rock. Later, it was a climb to the top… on low first gear, yet with the engine boiling!!! It was time to finish off the jujubes – emergency rations.

The climb is an interesting one. Lots of tell-tale marks reminds of its past. The circular mound on the top is definitely what remains of a dagaba of ancient times. An inscription in Tamil lettering tells us of its more recent past. Accept it or not…. It’s all part of our history.

More to go

Inscription from the recent past

Whatever said and done, the views from the top of the rock as well as the view of the rock is breath taking.

Shaa!

Cap!

Day Two

Heavy rain the previous night. The water level at the culverts / sapaththu paalam along the road linking Toppigala with Kiran had risen. Sooner or later vehicles will have to be replaced by boats…. That will only add to the suffering of the people in the area…. As if they have not had enough of it.

Time to get the boats ready

It was a rather quick drive to Ampara. By the time I had reached Ampara, I had counted at least ten ‘kalu boards’. Did not try to ‘explore’ as I was alone and walking into jungle patches alone is never a good idea. But, there were lots of interesting things that happened on the road.

Balancing Act	The place to go to when Feeling Blue
Notice Board!	Maaara Trees
Hot Water!	Until the rain falls

Day Three

Rain. Yet, the plan for the day was too good to be given up. Had heard a lot about the ‘site’ planned to visit that day…. Rajagala….. It had to be done.

Two others who also believe that rain will not cause us to dissolve joined me.
We climbed.. jumped.. crept… pulled… pushed… walked for a good five hours or more.
STUNNING! That’s all I can say about this ‘site’.

Can’t possibly write about everything we saw. The gloomy light and bursts of heavy rain did not help me with using the ‘Auto’ button in the camera. I will try to share what was on display with a few viewable photographs. But, this certainly is Justice denied!

Drainage line	Strange! A drain cut right through an inscription
The little dark brown/black thing in the cavity is iron	Scratch marks… said to have been caused by an iron door!
Carved In	Carved Out
Ah! Digging through…. Probably the back door to China!	Displaced

The cave complex was certainly the best I had seen

Entrance to (what I like to call) the VIP Quarters

Drip ledge worked perfectly	Walls still In-tack
Spacious corridors	Wall painting(s)

Sadly, there is also lots of evidence of destruction and treasure hunting seems to be the main cause. Whom can we blame? Those who hid/buried the so called treasure or those who dig it out?

Reference to Minindu Thero

The only one left

As is always the case, the view from the top is fantastic.

Ah! Toppigala

View from the top. Nawakiriaru Wewa

Back in the car… soaked… dripping….. cold… and like I said…. STUNNED!

Day Four

What could it be that I saw when I opened the door? Rain.

In the car with a friend…. Drove the whole day in whichever direction our heads turned to. Managed to visit a few places whenever there was short lulls.

Talking Secrets! – Himidurawa Wewa

Owagiriya Ruins

Bridge over Pallan Oya

Luke warm water!

Senanayake Samudraya…	Held up traffic for a good 15 minutes
Boat Yard – Namaloya Wewa	Here comes the rain – Namaloya Wewa

Ah! As usual food was from where ever we found it. Lunch at a kade at the Polwatte Junction. රෝස්(ට්) පාන් and මාලු හොදි…. Talk about being vegetarian! Later somewhere along the Bibile-Inginiyagala road it was plain tea with roti with lunu miris at Ralahami Akkage Kade. She did mention that she used kochchi miris.

Buddies!

Day Five

Although my visa to loiter around (as a friend called it) was ‘unrestricted’ there was no point in hanging around. Such a lot was on the list. More got added on the way. Yet, the South-East Monsoon was in command.

Forced to return home. But, then it would have been a crime to take the normal route back. Had to see something. Had to drive along roads that I had not been on. It was one of those Parangiya Kotte Giya circuits. Yet, was well worth it.
Was able to visit some places with ruins as well as the Wahawa hot water springs

Wilaathigoda - Bibile	Nagala - Bibile
Wahawa	Shower!
One of many ponds/wells

Something else that struck me was the Sigiriya like rock formations that I saw. There were a lot but was able to photograph only three of them.

Ululla - Ekiriyankumbura	Helagala - Wahawa
Leygalla - Ekiriyankumbura

Like I’ve mentioned the rain did force me to change most of my plans. But, who can blame the rain.. It does bring lot more than gloomy weather.

Somewhere along the road

Somewhere along the road

Got to go that way again…….. Soon

We left Colombo at about 11.30am on 10th October 2011 and reached Kantale at about 4.30 pm.Up to Habarana it was normal traffic but beyond few vehicles and broad wide carpet road. We were cruising at 110KMPH, but slowed down close to Kantale as traffic cops were in the road with speed check gun.

Habarana Kantale road

Kantale Seruwila road

Overland, the best way to reach Seruwila Mangala Viharaya is to drive from Kantale along the main Kantale Seruwila road pass Seru Nuwara and turn off at Arippu Junction road, a distance of around 48 km. This part is a gravel road in good condition unless it rains and gets muddy.

We reached Seruwila at about 6.30pm and it was heavy rain and could not get out of vehicle till 7.00pm, and booked a room at the pilgrims rest.

There were only few people even next day being a poya day

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We left Seruwila to LANKA PATUNA at about 12.30 pm via Toppur. Twenty Five KM on that road to Lanka patuna.The road was Muddy and a lots of pot holes and terrible road surface. A vehicle with high clearance can traverse.

The road was Muddy and a lots of pot holes and terrible road surface

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I will not attach many pictures of the Viharas as most trip reports have the same photos

The Black Beach on the approach road to Lanka patuna. We collected the Black sand and it’s heavy.

The Black Beach on the approach road to Lanka patuna

Our stop was Lanka Patuna is significant as an ancient port known as “Lanka pattana” where the prince Dhantha & Princess Hemamala who came from India ‘Kalingu Desaya’ and landed with the sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha.

The damaged Bridge

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We left Lanka Patuna at about 4.30 pm to Trincomallee as threre were signs of heave rainWe traveled along to Muttur and a gravel road of about 15 KM to Kinniya in Trincomalee. We reached Trincomallee town at about 6.30pm on 11th evening. And booked into Sarvodaya Hostal.

Next day 12th early morning we left to Girihadu Seya.The Pulmodai road was excellent and you have to turn at Triyaya Junction

The Pulmodai road was excellent

Irakkandi New Bridge

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Girihandu Seya Vihara is the oldest Buddha stupa in Sri Lanka. At over 2600 years old perhaps the oldest Buddhist Vihara in the world. Indeed for decades this ancient vihara was inaccessible to Buddhist pilgrims, lying as it was in LTTE rebel controlled areas. The base for a time was a LTTE training camp. After clearance of the rebels, pilgrims again can visit this ancient monument freely.

Girihandu Seya Small stupa	Old Stone Bridge
.	The Stone Inscription and the pond
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Arisimalai Beach

We turned to the right at Pulmodai road and traveled on a gravel road towards the beach. There is a Navy camp and after signing book has to walk on a gravel road to the beach 300 meters.

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We next went to Pitchamal Viharaya at Kutchuweli.

Near 35th KM post, at Kuchchiveli, there is a Navy Camp. Behind the camp, neat the beach on a hillock, there is some ruins of a Sthupa known as Pichchamal Viharaya (Kuchchaveli Viharaya). Hillock is known as Karandi Malai (Walas Kanda). You have to get permission from the camp to visit the place.

Pichchamal Viharaya (Kuchchaveli Viharaya) - Click Image to Enlarge

Hillock is known as Karandi Malai (Walas Kanda)

There is a stupa at the mountain. Some say Tapassu Balluka Merchants landed at this spot
Some others say that පිච්ච මල් (jasmine flowers) was taken from here to be offered to Ruvanweliseya

Stupa at the mountain

Back to Pulmodai Road we turned off to a muddy track and traveled towards Velgam vehera. We travelled on the Periyakulam Tank bund.

Periyakulam Tank

Periyakulam Tank

Velgam Viharaya

Velgam Vehera is located around 15 km away from Trincomalee by the Trincomalee – Anuradapura Road.
According to the historical facts, the Velgam Rajamaha Viharaya was constructed by king Devanampiyathissa. Later on some additions and renovations were done by first Bathiya, Second Agkbo, first Vijayabahu and first Parakramabahu.

The most important point is this temple was that this was worshiped by both Sinhala and Tamil Buddhist. That is one of the reason that Vilgam Vehera was not destroyed by south Indian Chola invasions in 10th century.

Velgam Vehera

Velgam Vehera

Koneswaram Temple	Koneswaram Temple
Kanniya Seven Hot wells	Kanniya Seven Hot wells

On our return Journey on the 13th Morning , Having visited Koneawarm Kovil and hot wells traveling back from Trinco to Colombo we again turned off at Kantale Junction and visited MAVILARU ANICUT as it was dark on first day of visit trip to Seruwila. The road from the turn off from Kantale Serunuwara road to the anicut was a muddy track.3 KM from the turn off point. No room if two vehicles meet on the Mavil Aru tank bund in driving towards the famous anicut. Road to anicut is closed after 5.00pm

MAVILARU ANICUT

MAVILARU ANICUT - Click Image to Enlarge

Sarvodaya Center where we stayed in Trinco

These days Trincomalee is experiencing evening showers and better avoid and get latest weather condition and travel. A high road clearance vehicle is a must if you intend to travel to all places

A long time back, while talking to some one at the Horton Plains office to get directions to Kirigalpoththa, we learnt that there is a bridle trail to Bogawantalawa which branches off from Kirigalpoththa trail (Kirigalpoththa trail wasn’t clearly marked then as it is now; and GPS for hiking was not even heard of!).  Since then it was in my list of “to do trails” but I never had enough information to plan the walk.

Last year Ashan walked from NorthCove to Horton Plains via Nagrak (Non Pareil) and the discussions in the forum that followed lead to members contributing solid evidence proving the existent of this trail and its history. This motivated us to spend a bit of time to take a closer look at the maps of the area where I found this trail, along with the trail Ashan did, clearly marked on the meter map!

The trail traced from the meter map (Click Image to Enlarge)

Now with the trail known, it again took almost a year for the actual walk to happen. Priyanjan and I had been discussing this trip on and off for couple of months and the key issue we had was sorting out permission when entering the Horton Plains National Park along this route as there was no ticket office for us to by tickets on this route.

Again lakdasun network solved the problem . Theshantha was able to speak to the authorities at the wildlife department and sort out the permission issue .

NorthCove cabana was the obvious accommodation option since the trail head, as per the map, was very close to this place.

With everything sorted out I made a reservation at NorthCove Cabanas for two nights.

We left Colombo in the morning and reached NorthCove early afternoon. Our Parents and kids  also joined us on the trip. The Cabanas are located bordering the forest and the whole set up there was very nice and clean. Sunset we witnessed from Cabanas was particularly memorable.

Short break to admire the beauty of tiny flowers - On the way to Hatton - On the A7 passed Diyagala

Lunch Stop passed Hatton - Raod side between Dikoya and Norwood

Welcome to NorthCove Cabanas

Memorable Sunset as seen from NorthCove Cabanas

After dinner I had a chat with “Shankar”, the friendly care taker of the Cabanas about the trail we plan to take in the next morning. We wanted to find out whether he can help us with finding a local guide to accompany us. Even though we had the coordinates of the trail, we wanted to have local presence with us in case if we come across the illegal gem miners. We were aware that there is extensive illegal mining taking place in this area above NorthCove. Ashan’s report too confirmed that.

Shankar’s first reaction was proposing us to take the trail via Nagrak to World’s end. When we showed him the map and insisted that we wanted to do the Bridle trail to Farr-Inn, he told us that this trail is little used and little known to the local plantation workers. Then we told him that we are simply looking for local presences, he agreed to arrange a person to walk with us.

Next day early morning we greeted Theshantha and his brother in law Dhanushka who rode over night from Colombo to join the hike. After a somewhat heavy breakfast, we left the Cabanas and started the walk. We arranged the hired van we came in to pick us up from Horton Plains office in the same day evening.

Leaving the Cabanas we walked up to the border of the estate, which was just few hundred meters away from the Cabanas. Following Shankar’s advice we then started to climb down along the estate border. Our guide who was little late to turn up also joined us. After walking for about 15 minutes we realized that we were deviating from the planed trail. When inquired, our guide took us back to where we first reached the boarder of the forest and showed us a little foot path that goes in to the forest which agreed with the track we had in the GPS!

This mess up  delayed us roughly by about an hour. It was 845 a.m. by the time we entered the forest on the correct trail.

Crew at the border of NorthCove just before we entered the forest. On extreme right are our guide and Shankar

In the very beginning it was rapid ascent through jungle terrain for about two Kilometers. After the walk through the jungle we reached an open grassland. We climbed down taking a right turn towards the Gem mining sites near a Turpentine forest. This place is called “Mahaeliya”. Even though Ashan had met miners at this place we could only see the mess they had left behind. The site appeared to have been abandoned for couple of months at least. On the way to, and closer to, Mahaeliya we could witness signs of the old jeep track that said to have existed few decades back from Farr Inn to Bogawatalawa Estate.

MahaEliya

Stream, Turpentine and evidence of mining at MahaEliya

Leaving MahaEliya, we walked further along the valley to reach “Mahadeniya” which was another open area with a lot of abandoned gem pits. Again Ashan had met miners here as well but the site appeared abandoned to us.

Towards Mahadeniya from Mahaeliya along the valley

Approaching Manadeniya

Mahadeniya abandoned gem Pits

Large Stream in the Valley - Mahadeniya

According to the data we had in the GPS we had to walk towards left from Mahadeniya where as the guide was suggesting us to walk biased to right hand side. Soon we realized that he was suggesting us to take the route via Nagrak. we tried to convince him that we want to do the bridle trail, but he was not willing to go that way. Finally we said good bye to our guide and made an attempt to find the trail ourselves. Luckily we could see trace remaining of the old trail going uphill from the valley, confirming to cordinates we had. Time was 11.45 a.m. and we set off along the trail on our own.

Around 12.00 noon we decided to take the lunch break. We had bread and seenisambol with us and had a refreshing 30 mins break.

Climbing up from Mahadeniya (valley below in distance) following the traces of the bridle trail which confirmed to the GPS coordinates we had

On the bridle trail passed Mahadeniya

Lunch Break - near some boulders just few hundred meters from Mahadeniya

After lunch got back on the trail. We were happy to find a clear trail on the ground confirming to the coordinates we were following on the GPS. We had completed roughtly 1/2 of the distance to Kirigalpoththa trail by this time. We had plenty of time in hand, particularly because we have finished all the climbing already. Elevation profile of the trail ahead was rather flat. We had nothing to worry as we could maintain good walking phase.

Soon this bright outlook started to turn gray. The trail started to gradually dissappear in valleys where there was evidence of extensive gem mining and the undergrowth in forest patches became increasingly thick. More and more we had to rely on the GPS to show the path to take. Occasionally we would merge with footpaths used by miners (We came across a skeleton of a hut made by miners as well). We were strictly following the coordinates of the original bridle trail which made us deviate from the foot paths and walk through the forest regularly to avoid getting disorinted by the foot paths of miners.

After an almost three hours of tough walking, we reached another large mining site on the trail. Unlike the sites we came across before, this appeared to be a functioning one (We did not meet any one, we saw equipment scattered around so it was very likely that who ever who was there was hiding close by). It was an unfortunate site to see how miners have managed to encroach this fragile eco-system so deep in side one of the most important protected areas and watersheds of the country.

Time was 3 p.m. We had only managed to cover less than 2km from the point where we had lunch. For the first time, we sensed that we may have miscalculated timing. We realized that, when estimating the time that will take us to complete the trail, we did not take in to account the fact that this trail may not have been used for years and therefore we will have to deal with dense undergrowth. We did not have anything bigger than a Swiss army knife to help us clear the vegetation. Our assumptions were purely based on the elevation profiles assuming at least  remenants of a bridle trail to be there for the most part.

From this last gem pits we reached, it was almost impossible to find the continuation of the trail. It appeared that we had reached the last regions accessed by miners and therefore there were no footpaths beyond that. We had to completely rely on the GPS to guide us. The progress was very very slow. The thorny undergrowth slowed us down a lot and sometimes we chose to walk along water ways, where ever possible to do so without deviating too much from the mapped trail, to maintain speed.

After some strenuous walking (or should I say mostly crawling!) we reached an open grass patch sandwiched between forest covered mountains. Traces of the bridle trail was again visible confirming that we were on track. Unfortunately after a brief easy walk along the grass patch the coordinates were pointing us again in to the dense forest in front.

Time was almost 6p.m. We had covered 7km and there was 2.5km to reach the Kirigalpoththa trail (We knew that once on the Kirigalpoththa trail we could walk even in the mid night!). It was absolutely clear that we are not going to make it  without  spending at least 2-4 more hours. Trail conditions we experienced up to this point made it clear that it is no possible to tackle the rest of the trail in the dark anyway. It was time to evaluate emergency exist options!

To avoid having to spend the night in the forest we decided to make an attempt to follow the direct direction towards the Baker’s Falls Trail, which according to the coordinates we had is not too far from where we were, and see whether we can make it to that. Again, we knew that it is possible to walk along the Baker’s falls trail even in the night.  We gave up following the bridle trail and started to walk up along the opposite side of the mountain towards Baker’s falls trail.

After walking for about 15 minutes, we reached some higher grounds on the mountainside where we could see the valley of BelihulOya and the Baker’s Falls trail winding along the mountain side across the valley. Time was around 6.30 p.m. and we had less than 30 minutes of daylight remaining. We made couple of attempts to descend down to the valley of Belihul Oya but it was too dangerous to climb down in low light.

Without taking any unnecessary risk we settled with the last option. Spend the night up there!

Once the decision to stay overnight was made, we had to first look for a water source.  We had run out of water by this time. Eventhough the forest was quite wet, there were no large streams in the steep mountain slope we were in. After a bit of searching Prabath managed to spot the sound of a tiny spring from which we got our water bottles filled. We had little bit of extra rations so food was not an immediate concern.

To spend the night we picked a well covered place on the steep mountain slope, hiding in the undergrowth, which gave us some cover from the freezing breeze. There was barely any flat ground for the seven of us to sit together. We knew that it was going to be a long night.

Next task was to light up a fire to avoid the risk of  catching cold. We knew that we were inside Horton plains National Park and lighting up a fire was against the rule. Yet it was not “Business as usual” and the fire was essential for the survival of the team.

Prabath volunteered and collected a pile of wood from fallen trees. Having collected wood we faced the biggest obstacle. It was impossible to light up moist wood with matches we had. Even the fallen leaves on the ground was wet. In a desperate attempt to start a fire we started burning everything we had from paper to polythene wrappers  with no luck.

The thick rubber sole of one of my boots had came off earlier in the day and we carried it with us thanks to Theshantha who insisted that I take the sole back home and get the boot repaired. We immediately decided to chop it in to pieces and burn it to start the fire. Lukily the burning rubber generated enough heat to dry some wood and finally we had the fire going.

None of us had any sleep that night. The fire required constant attention and there was not enough space even to stretch our legs. Luckily it did not rain in the night even though we had a rudimentary shelter made using some sticks and our raincoats ready to be used to protect the fire in case if it rained.

Most difficult yet the most critical camp fire I ever started....

None of us slept that night. The fire needed constant attention and there was not enough space even to stretch our legs.

After many long hours it dawned to a gloomy and rainly morning. With the first lights we carefully extiguished all traces of the fire and started evaluating exit routes. In the interest of getting out of the woods as quickly as possible we re-attempted to climb down to Belihuloya and cross over to Bakers falls trail. Even in day light the decend was too steep and dangerous to tackle. Quickly we realised that the only viable option is  to track back to the point where we deviated from the original path and follow the GPS track again.

So we tracked back and started to follow the bridle trail once again. The trail condition was as usual. Thick thorny undergrowth and impossible to walk. Slowly but steadily we moved along the mapped path. Luckily there were couple of long stretches where the traces of the old trail were still there. We also came across remenats of the jeep track at certain palces, most notably the concrete slab over the river described in the forum discuss.

at 1.30 pm we reached Kirigalpoththa trail. Finally we were out of danger. Trail beyond this was well known and frequently traveled so with in an hour we were at the Horton Plain office.

Finally reached Kirigalpoththa Trail - The only and only one image of the second day!

It was one of the most memorable hikes  which really tested our experience in the wild, survival skills and preparation. It was a rare real life expereince which proved how important it is to stay calm when dealing with a difficult situation, the value of having basic but right tools (and the repercussions of not having them!) and more  importantly the value of a like minded team who successfully worked together to come out of the situation we got in to with a completely happy ending.

After reaching Horton Plains office we came back to NorthCove cabanas to meet the angry planters of the estate management who had deployed multiple rescue teams to search for us (we later found out that the rescue teams had very little clue of what they were doing and none of them had even bothered to check the path we took until some professionals got involved later in the day!). The planters had panicked so much because they themselves had attempted to walk this trail and had ended up in an utter disaster and a near death experience couple of months back. They couldn’t believe that we all (including two ladies) followed the trail from beginning to the end and came out unscratched even after spending a night in the forest. (Later we learnt that they were seriously ill prepared in their hike and had not even had a compass with them so failure was inevitable!)

Because it was very late in the day that we returned to NorthCove, we postponed the return trip back home by a day.

“The Rock of Lanka” is the meaning of “Lakegala” in Sinhala language. The rock is about 1310m high and it is in the Knuckles mountain range aka “දුම්බර කදුවැටිය”. According to the Sinhala legend, the Lakegala rock is considered as the Kingdom Lankapura where King Ravana’s capital was. It is also said that Ravana met Princess Sita, the Queen of Rama beside this rock. But the most people in Meemure Villages believe that Lakegala is the place where King Ravana lifted his air plane called “Dhandumonara (දඩුමොණර)”; an ancient glider; an Air Chariot. The triangular shape of the Rock is ideal for such an operation. This Dhandu Monara was his official Plane and he used it to capture Sita from India.

It was one of my dream journeys which I had waited for a long time to accomplished. Finally that day came.We departure from colombo on 4th of September by 12.45AM Ampara bus to go to the ancient Memure village.We arrived Hunnasgiriya at about 5.30 AM and get breakfast from there. We went to Loolwatta by a van which leaves at 8.00 AM from Hunnasgiriya. After that, there was no public transport vehicle on that road until 1.30 PM. After scenic drive along the Hunnasgiriya-Loolwatta road we came to the destination at about 9.00AM.From there we started our long walk towards Meemure.

Knuckles Range from Corbetts' Gap

From the Loolwatta there is short cut road to Corbetts’ Gap (In Sinhala අට්ටල මෙට්ටුව). Though it goes along steepest ascending, it saves lot of time because normal road longer than about 1.5-2 km. After about half hour hiking we reached Corbetts’ Gap. It was such a beautiful place where you can see mountain range all around you which goes to the infinity. Sometimes strong wind flow across corbetts’ gap, so be careful about your stuffs like caps. From corbetts’ gap to Meemure there is no considerable steep climb in road. After waiting a little while there, we stared to walking down towards Meemure. After Loolwatta we didn’t see any clean water source for drinking until Pusse ala, so carry enough water for drinking.

We thought this as Knuckles Mountain

After long walk we came to a small shop near the Pusse ala. We had tea with ‘Kithul Hakuru’ from there. Our plan was to stay at Pusse Ala on first day night. Since time was still about 1.00PM we decided to visit nitro cave. While we were walking towards nitro cave we saw Lakegala from far away.

Lakegala from Kumukgolla Village

We reached Kumbukgolla village in about one hour and asked for the distance to the nitro cave. But no one gave confident answer except everyone said different distances from there. Therefore we decided not to continue from there since we kept our stuffs and tent at the shop nearby Pusse ala and it was already 3.00PM. Later I found that there were only 3km from Kumubukgolla to Nitro cave while some locals said there was about 9km.

We came back to the shop and went to our destination for the 1st day which is Pusse ala. Although there was not much water in the stream it was a nice place for camping. There is a small water fall down the stream but bathing there is dangerous according to villagers. After having bath we prepared our dinner.

Pusse Ela

On 2nd day we faced unfortunate situation because one of our friend cut his arm while preparing breakfast. We faced lot of difficulties because there was no signal for mobiles, no transport and no dispensaries but luckily we got vehicle going to Hunnassgiriya. Two of our friends went with injured friend to hospital which caused to change our plan totally. We were able to understand clearly, difficulties of people there in a situation like that. Later I could find a location where mobile signal receiving. After getting positive answer from them we decided to continue our journey.

Remaining four of us continued walking towards Meemure while other three agreed to come from daily van going to Meemure in the evening. On the way we could see a Snake & buffalos.Since cultivation doing according to ‘හෙල් මළු’ land masters and tractors cannot be used. Therefore buffalos are very useful for villagers.

Snake

Buffallo

After passing Kaikawala Heen ganga bridge we entered to the final part of our jounery.We could see Lakegala in distance.After walking about 2km from Heen ganga we came to Meemure village.

Lakegala from Kaikawala

Since rain hadn’t fallen in months, Meemure seems like Anuradhapura area.Water streams almost dried out. We went to see popular suriya arana water fall,but there was not much water.:(

Suriya Arana Waterfall

However we decided to camping on a harvested paddy field after seeking permission from villagers. Some of them did not have a good impression about visitors due to bad incidents happened before. They said some were used water streams as toilets, put garbage all over there, make noises thorough the nights etc. If you aplan to go there keep in mind that it is a village, so don’t disturb their life style. And also don’t leave anything there. It was a beautiful evening at Meemure. Lakegala was standing behind the village proudly with full of colors at sun set.

Sunset at Meemure

Following morning four of our friends left by the van which goes to Hunnasgiriya. Three of us stayed back there to climb Lakegala. It is hard to imagine that one can climb it as seen from the ground. By getting help from villager we started to climb Lakegala from the left slope. First part of the journey went through the jungle and then we came to an open area. After that climbing was very hard and steep is about 60-70 degrees. One missed step would mean that you end up in the valley. There were no trees in that area and only had ‘mana’ and small plants.

Climbing was not easy

After about 2 ½ hours of hiking we came to a place where there was no plants even until the top of the mountain. Although villagers can walk on rock surface we couldn’t do that without the help of a rope. At the beginning of the hike we asked about ropes from the guide, but he said it would not be needed. But at the top he said it would be difficult for us to climb and specially climb down without the help of a rope. . And at that time sun troubled us while we were getting out of water and we hadn’t any thing to eat. So we had no option except climbing down . For future travelers, I would like to say carry enough water, food and a rope with good guide.

Above the clouds from Lakegala

After came back to village we were able to taste jack fruit. Then We came back to Hunnasgiriya by a three wheeler which cost us Rs.2000 . That was the longest three wheel journey in my life .From there we went to Kandy and return to Colombo by a Kandy bus. It was a most adventurous joinery I ever had with lot of experiences.

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Another fag was swing. The vehicle stopped for a while obeying the signal again. None of passengers could remember how many times that were practiced from the beginning of the journey. No one could be set free from the hospitality of Buddhists youth in Sri Lanka, because that was the Vesk full moon day. No other community in the world who feed unknown passengers as them for charity.

Our first travel location, the historic temple at Thalagama was located at a distance less than a kilometer from Ambepussa, the first train destination of Sri Lanka. The temple was consisted with three levels. The Sangawasaya, Dharma Shalawa and other general buildings used by Bhikku are located at the lower level.

In the middle of the stepped path to the second level

Reaching the second level where the house of statues is located

The house of statues & Bodhi (sacred Bo tree) were located at the second level which was located 100ft above the first. A stepped path was there to reach the second. The houses of statues were built using rock caves few centuries ago.

House of statues in rock cave

Towards third level

The most important part was the Pagoda built to imitate the famous pagoda at Sanchi-India. There was a stepped path to the third level which was located not less than 200ft from the second. A Gal kema (rock based pond) and an inscription, stone were also there.

Reaching the summit	Pagoda built to imitate the famous pagoda at “Sanchi” -India
abyss

Our next travel location was the Kota vehera (Short pagoda) at Dedigama. This was also known as the “Suthighara” (the birth place) pagoda. It was believed that the king Parakramabahu the great, was build this when he ruled the western part of the country as a regional ruler (Mapa) to memorize his birth place. And also it was popular as one of the three short pagodas of the country.

Information	Kota Vehera at Dedigama
Kota vehera

The most spectacular item was the ඇත් පහන  (The lantern of tusker) which was displayed at the museum in nearby. That was identified as a wonder of hydraulic in Polonnaruwa era. The lantern was made with bronze and decorated with fine craftsmanship. It was important to notice that one of the same lanterns found was displayed at the general museum at Colombo.

Information

The Museum

The lantern was consisted with to main components, a hollow tusker (the oil storage) and a lighting dish (a dish consisting lighting nozzles). At the beginning you have to fill the tusker with oil & put it on the dish, putting some oil in to the dish and light the lantern. When the flame consumed oil, the oil level of the dish would be reduced. Then an air hole on the tusker’s leg was exposed and let some air to get in to the abdomen of the tusker. As a result some oil would be poured to the dish showing the tusker was passing urine. When the oil level of the dish was increased, the air hole would seal with oil until a new cycle was begin.

ඇත් පහන ( the lantern of tusker)

Details on “ඇත් පහන” (Click Image to Enlarge)

Afterwards we moved towards Narangoda and had a cool dip in the Gurugoda oya at a nice safe bathing place showed by a villager. On our way back, we stopped a while at Bataleeya, but we found that cashew nuts were too expensive to be given for charity.

We started our journey at about 4.15 A.M on 27 th August from Colombo. Our crew consists of 07. (5 adults of between 45-55 and 2 children between 18-23.)

Our first stop was at Kurunegala for our breakfast. After the breakfast we drove through Dambulla,Nelumkulama and turned left to Anuradhapura air force camp road through Wilachchiya road to Nellikulama.

Nellikulama was a modern temple but its concept was little different from our traditional temple.

statues of 500 Arahat Buddhist monks	statues of 500 Arahat Buddhist monks
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After visiting Nellikulama temple we proceeded towards Wilachchiya and turned right to the Thanthirimale temple. The road was very good condition even a small car you can travel without any problem. In the Thanthirimale we had our lunch and then started to climb the rock temple.

Thanthirimale temple	Thanthirimale temple
Thanthirimale temple	Thanthirimale temple

This was an excellent location for Buddhist temple. Really very calm place. But I think the evening is preferred to visit this place because of the hot sun. In early days this area was called as Thivanka Bamunugama.The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface. Heavy wind in these days.

The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface

The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface

Road from Thanthirimale to Gajasinghapura camp junction at Madawachchi - Mannar road

We started our journey again at about 4.00 p.m from Thanthirimale to Mannar.
The road from Thanthirimale to gajasinghapura camp at Madawachchi- Mannar (A 14) road was a gravel road but not bad, easy to travel even a small car because no large pot holes. A14 road was a carpet road up to Madhu junction but after the Madhu junction also road was good condition.

A 14 road – Madawachchiya- Mannar road

Donkeys at Mannar road

Through A14 road we proceed up to Murunkan and turned left and go to Silawathura and from Silawathura again turned right to Arippu. From Silawathura to Arippu road was gravel road with lot of pot holes but can manageable for a car with slow speed.

In the Arippu you can visit old Doric house remains. We came to the Arippu at about 6.00 p.m. Very heavy winds at the beach area.

Doric house at Arippu	.
Inside of the Doric house - steps to the top floor	View from inside of the Doric house
.	Arippu beach
Doric tower	.

After a nice relax evening at the Arippu beach, we started our journey again to find our night station, Four Tees rest at Mannar. Actually to go to FourTeess you have to travel another 7 miles from Mannar to Thalaimannar road .Then you find small junction called Thottaweli junction and turned left to that junction and proceeded another 700 meters, and just next to the Thottaweli railway station you can find Four Teess rest inn.

Four Tees rest at Mannar	Four Tees rest at Mannar
Thottaweli railway station	A passenger waiting for the train!

We arrived to Four Teess at about 7.30 p.m , The owner of the Rest Mr. Lawrence was a good kind hearted person. He can speak English well but not Sinhala. But some of the helping people can speak Sinhala. After a hot cup of tea and having a good bath we have just relaxed till our dinner was ready. The dinner (rice and curry with prawn curry) was not much tasty but good enough to eat. The place was good clean and enough space, large rooms and not too much crowded. The rest has 4 large rooms with clean attached bathrooms. The large room has an A/C with 4 beds.

After a good sleep (no mosquitoes) next morning we get ready before 7.00 a.m, as planned for our boat trip to Adams bridge sand islands. Mr. Lawrence, as our request arranged idly for our breakfast. That was really tasty. After the breakfast we hurried to Thalaimannar pier. That was about 18 km trip and anyway we arrived to the pier at 7.45 a.m.
That was the time we got the heartbreaking news regarding cancellation of boat trips due to heavy winds. Then no choice and we have just relaxing few hours at pier and returned to the rest and get ready for the return journey.

Dung beetles	House sparrow
Great egret	Thalaimannar lighthouse

Thalaimannar pier

The boats used to visit Adams Bridge	Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes of the beach
Biobab tree –Circumference –19.51 m, Height -7.5 m	Biobab flowers
.	Mannar Dutch fort

Mannar old railway bridge blasted by L.T.T.E	.
.	Another Biobab tree
.	Giant tank at Mannar
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In return journey we have stop Jana Awanhala at Giant tank for our lunch operated by Sri-Lanka Army . The place was good and tasty foods and reasonable price also. After the lunch we have visited Madhu church and return to Colombo .

Maranda Madhu Church	No matter you are black or small ! We are friends…….
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