We chose Madu-Mannar as the destination for our year-end office trip after reading a number of trip reports on Lakdasun. We started form the suburbs of Colombo at about 12.30 in the night/morning as we had only two days to explore all interesting places that had been discussed in those reports. The crew was forty and we travelled in a 55-seater Ashok Leyland bus. As we started early, we reached Medawachchiya Rest House by 5.30 am and refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea. (Prior arrangements made to have tea so early!)

Dawn was breaking in as we turned off from A9 towards Madu along A14 and the misty surroundings made us feel as if we were travelling through the hills in up country.

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

The drive towards Madu was effortless and the road condition was superb. The only disappointment in the trip was we could not make the detour to Thanthirimale (only 8km from the main road). Actually it was not in our agenda and we saw the sign board far too late. But it would have been a wonderful experience to visit the temple at 7 in the morning!

We found an ideal place to have breakfast with the advice of Army personnel at a checkpoint. We turned towards left at Madu Police Road and after 2-3 Km came to a irrigation project called “Periyamurippu”. We had a relaxed breakfast (brought from home) and enjoyed going over a suspension bridge built recently.

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Click Image to Enlarge)	Periyamurippu Irrigation Project
The river below	The Suspension Bridge

After breakfast we proceeded towards Madu and the road was in great shape all the way up to Madu. By 8.30 we were in Madu and we spent nearly three hours enjoying the surroundings.

Madu Shrine at a distance

Inside the Shrine

We left Madu around 11a.m and proceed towards Murunkan. We stooped at the Giant Tank for a short break but could not witness any bird activity as it was almost noon. The “Jana Awanhala” operated by the Army has also closed down its operations.

Our next stop was Thirukketiswaram Kovil, a famous Hindu Kovil, which was only a few kilometers away from the main road. It was the time of the Pooja and we all took part (none being Hundu). At the end of it tasted the “Muruthan bath” – which was delicious- as well.

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

It was almost 1p.m. when we left the Kovil and we had lunch under a shady tree and proceeded towards Mannar.

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

The first attraction in Mannar was the donkeys loafing all over the town.

donkeys loafing all over the town

The huge Biobab tree nearby was the next stop

Since our crowd was large accommodation was arranged in two different places; Golden Guest Inn, Mannar and Four Tees Rest, Thodaweli (7km on Talaimanar Road). Golden Guest is a large house in the heart of the town converted into an inn. It has eight clean rooms with attached bathrooms and three have AC facilities. (Tel. 023 – 2250494) FourTees Rest (discussed many times in this forum) is away from the hustle and bustle of the town and has five large rooms in its old wing and five more double rooms in the new wing which was nearing completion when we visited early De cember. (Tel: 023-3230008)It has a spacious garden full of mango trees and the rooms are clean and well maintained. There are two ruined buildings opposite Four Tees Rest – remnants of the old Thodaweli Railway Station.

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

One of the new occupants of the station!

After a refreshing cup of tea we headed towards a nearby beach for an evening sea bath. It was a deserted beach with a few fishermen preparing their gear for the evening catch. The water was calm with hardly any waves but the Navy personnel nearby advised us not to go far. We had a dip in the warm waters till sun went down and it was so refreshing after a long day!

The deserted beach

We had a delicious dinner of string hoppers, prawn curry, parripu and sambol at Four Tees and were fortunate to witness the full lunar eclipse in the clear Mannar sky. We ended the long but very fulfilling first day of our trip with that reward.

Day 2

We planned to visit Adams Bridge and had to leave the Inn by 6 in the morning. We had only a cup of tea and Mr. Lawrance at Four Tees was kind enough to prepare sandwiches to be had on the way. We were in Talaimannar by 6.30 and it was a bright sunny morning. The early rays touching the golden beach made a lovely sight.

First sunbeams kissing the beach!	First sunbeams kissing the beach!
Eligibility for Sand Tour	Tours to Adam's Bridge (Click image to Enlarge)

The boats waiting on the golden beach

They had three boats which could accommodate 22 including children. (8+8+6). Since there were 40 in our crew half the crowd had to wait until the first group returned. The first group was given life jackets and instructions by the Navy on what and what not to. The ticket to the sand dunes – they are called Dancing Islands – as they are known to shift their position a bit – costs Rs.600/= per head and that includes a picnic snack and a bottle of water to be had on the way. Each boat was given a lifesaver in addition to the Navy person who operated it. So safety was ensured.

Boats ready to leave the shore

Young travelers eagerly waiting with picnic bags!

The one hour long boat ride was most enjoyable in the morning golden sun. There were many larks and seagulls around and we saw fish jumping on the waves. Our three boats were accompanied by a special life saving boat so there was hardly anything to worry – even if the boat topples there were many to save you!!

Urumalai Beach fading away

Enjoying the boat ride

The lifesaving boat accompanying our three boats

We landed on the second sand dune and spent a wonderful half-an-hour there. It had shallow pools everywhere and we saw some eggs may be laid by the sea-gulls. A different kind of grass and some flowering plants were the only vegetation on the island. It was a unique experience.

Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Patterns of nature	Patterns of nature

A young traveler on a lonely planet!

Mount Everest on the lonely planet

Crossing Nanthikadal???	Young explorers!
Life on the island	Life on the island
Heaven on earth…..	.

As we were about bid good bye to the miracle island our second group arrived. Luck was on our side that day. A bigger boat had come there as a ‘test ride’ and the rest of our crew had been brought in that boat. That saved us nearly three hours. Had not been for the unexpected the big boat, the second group would still be on the shore waiting for our return to get into a boat!

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

Thanks to the Navy all forty of us were safely back on the shore by 10 O’clock – before the harsh Talaimannar sun could show its full force.

After that most enjoyable boat trip we headed back to Four Tess, refreshed ourselves and bid good bye to Mr.Lawrance thanking him for making our stay comfortable.

We collected lunch packets from Choice Restaurant in the town. (023-2223261) Since we had given the order in advance the packets were ready for us. Must commend the food at Choice – it was delicious.

We returned on A 14 and turned towards Silavathura from Murunkan and up to Silavathura the road was in good shape. From Silavathura we turned to the right and headed towards Arrippu. It was a gravel road in bad shape running along the beach. We visited Doric House and had our lunch there.

Doric House at Arippu	The ruins
Our bus from Doric House	Doric Tower

After lunch we proceeded towards Vilpattu. We were concerned about the road condition via Vilpattu and made inquiries at a number of check points and at the Silavathura Police station. As we were given the green light we proceeded. After travelling along the gravel road full of pot holes for nearly two hours we reached the Marichchukaddi Check Point. It was past four and the response at the checkpoint reg. road condition was not positive at all. They warned us that it had rained inside the jungle and a number of vehicles got stuck in mud. But it was too late to turn back and our two experienced drivers were ready to take the challenge and we decided to proceed. We were passionate to pass through the jungle. The army at the check point warned us that we had to cross nearly 40 km of thick jungle and that we will be cut off from all communication – no phone signals inside the jungle. We understood the gravity but had no option but to proceed. I feel the Silavathura Police Station should be more aware of the road condition and this advice should be available at that point so that a traveler could go back to Murunkan and proceed via Anuradhapura without exposing himself to greater risks. Turning back at Marichchukaddi is a total waste.

Although Mannar did not receive rain during that weekend Vilpattu jungle had received rain. It was not raining when we proceeded but the muddy road witnessed previous rains. The road condition was getting worse from each step and it was becoming slippery. Although we had two very experienced drivers they had to try very hard to keep the bus on the road. We all were praying that the road condition would improve but our prayers were never answered. All we could see was the muddy road lying ahead looking more like a swamp.

The muddy road ahead….	Its 5 in the evening and we are still crawling through the mud….
Mud….mud….and more mud…More like a swamp than a road	Navigating through the slippery road…..

Although our drivers did their best and navigated through the mud bath we got stuck thrice and each time it took nearly ½ hour to 45 minutes to pull the bus out of mud – it being a giant 55 seater Ashok Leyland. It was getting dark and we were still in the middle of thick jungle without any modes of communication with the outside word. We were beginning to question the decision we took, but it was too late.

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

The sun went down and we had nearly 20 more kilometers to cross. The drivers had taken the challenge well and were doing all they could to avoid getting stuck another time. As the sun went down their task became more and more difficult and we all were praying for safety.
It was pitch dark when the bus got stuck the last time and it was too dangerous to get out as we were in the thick jungle. But a few got off with torches in their hands. It was past 7.30 and all our phones were dead. To our great relief we saw a light ahead and saw some people walking towards us. It was a troop of army personnel doing their routine patrol and they were travelling in a “unicorn”. They were from the Illavankulam Check Point. They were god sent saviors and with great effort they helped us out of the mud. We were told that Illavankulam was about a 45-minute drive. That was a great relief and we proceeded in the dark. The road condition improved thereafter but we had to cross one last barrier – a narrow causeway over Kala Oya – over which water was running about 1 foot high. It was so narrow that we all feared for safety. But our experienced driver was able to navigate through that last barrier successfully and we all cheered with relief when we reached the Check Point.

It was past nine when we reached Puttalam and we stopped at a Appa Kade and had our dinner. It was past midnight when we came to our destination – completing two full days of fun and excitement. It was a miracle that we did not have to spend the night in the middle of the Vilpattu jungle. May be we were blessed as we worshiped Madu as well as the Thirukkethiswaram Kovil on our way!

The wild explorers!

From the very first day I heard about the centuries old tradition of Pada Yatra  and the opprtunity it provide to walk across Yala and Kumana, I wanted to do this walk. Eventhough Pada Yatra is mainly a religious and cultural event, my main interest was getting close to the wilderness of Kumana and Yala, to walk the terrain that one could only traverse in a 4WD otherwise.

As with many other excursions, this was limited to a dream due to logistical reasons and lack of infirmation to properly plan it out. Eventhough Pada Yatra had been taking place for centuries, there was very little information available to the general public. Communities who take part in this major cultural & religious event relay on experience and information passed down from one generation to another. As a result there is very little written on it.

Once again Lakdasun made it happen!

In 2010 couple of Lakdasun members lead by Priyanjan participated in Pada Yatra. As usual the resulting discussions in the forum provided every little bit of information one would need regarding the cultural event as well as the walk. In 2011 Priyanjan planned his North to South excursion along the full Pada Yatra route all the way from Jaffna. I couldn’t have got a better opprtunity to do this walk than joining Priyanjan at Okanda to do the last stretch!

After a month of walking from Jaffna, Priyanjan was supposed to start the last stretch from Okanda (Kumana) on 24th of June.  Therefore I left home on the 23rd night and caught the night bus to Pottuvil from Colombo. A group of five other Lakdasun members lead by Chaturanga also joined me. After a long journey through the night, we were at Pottuvil by 5.45 in the morning on the 24th.

Thanks to Theshantha ( and Lakdasun again!) we had a truck waiting for us at Pottuvil to take us to Okanda. The early morning drive to Okanda from Pottuvil passing Panama was fantastic!

At Pottuvil 5.45 in the morning. A truck was waiting there to take us to Okanda

Towards Panama on Brand new Tarmac

Sun rise over a lake close to Panama

Golden Goose! - A black winged Stilt

Early morning at Panama Wewa - Daily routine has already started

Dirt Road to Okanda from Panama

We met Priyanjan at Kumana entrance. First thing we did was to take a close look at what was in backpacks and to reduce as much weight as possible! We had approximately 80km to walk from Okanda, mostly through dry, harsh environment of Kumana and Yala (particularly block II) so every additional gram of wieght mattered.

It was the first few days of Pada Yatra so not many pilgrims had entered the park. We were given a number tag at the park entrance for tracking purposes.

After re-pack and a quick breakfast we started walking at around 8.00 a.m.

The surrounding was so was nice and beautiful. Sky was deep blue and the trail was sandy and white. Our first planned stop was at “Bagura”. Enjoying the beauty of kumana we steadily walked towards the destination.

Kumana National Park Entrance at Okanda

The sky was deep blue and the trail was sandy and white

As the sun rose, the surrounding began to heat up. Gradually the walk became tiring. Soft sand of the jeep track which looked so beautiful a hour or so ago was creating drag on every step we took. We realized the gravity of task ahead of us with in the first two hours of the walk. Within the first couple of hours, one realizes the value of leaving as much things as possible and carrying as much water as possible. Lukily we were well informed and reasonably prepared. With couple of short breaks we reached Bagura a little past noon.

Beauty of Kumana - walking across this landscape was a wonderful experience	Weaver bird nests
Dead and Dry!	Light became harsh and the walk became tough
Passing the giant hearth	Towards Bagura

9km out of 80km done! and more importantly that 9km did set the right expectations on what the most of the remaining 71km was going to be like!

In the burning heat,  shade of trees at Bagura was heavenly. We had some sweek cakes for lunch and relaxed for couple of hours. Bagura is a designated rest area for Pilgrims and there is a fresh water well at Bagura.

Bagura Oya and the Wooden Bridge

A well earned rest at Bagura

Bagura Kalapuwa - In the rainy season this will turn in to a sea

Blessings for safe passage

We fetched water from the well, purified it with Alum and Chlorine, filled the water bottles  and set out despite the heat.  We did not forget to make some Jeevani solution as well. The next target was to reach Madame Thota (මඩමෙ තොට), Kumbukkan Oya at the border of Kumana before the night fall.

There was almost 12km to reach Kumbukkan Oya, the designated night halting place. Apart from the last 1km or so before the river which was well shaded, the rest of the trail was similar to what we tackled up to Bagura; sandy, dry and hot!

From Bagura we walked passed the site of Thunmulla wildlife department bungalow and several  open areas and water holes such as Kotalindawala, Andaraka Kalapuwa and Yakala Kalapuwa (Open the trail map in Google Earth, Priyanjan has added images of all these places in GE)

By the time we reached Kumana Villuwa it was late after noon. Kumana villuwa was a sight to see in that beautiful light. The beauty of Kumana villuwa along with our almost worn out legs compelled us to spend about 15 minutes there.

Most Pilgrims don't seem to find the walk as difficult as we did. Is it faith, practice, preparation or simply having the right expectations	Did I say it was dry?
Sand Dunes. The sea is just on the other side	An occasional onlooker
වීර	Passing Yakala Kalapuwa (යාකල කලපුව)
Towards Kumana Villuwa	Kumana Villuwa - the Oasis in the middle of Kumana
Kumana Villuwa and Coconut trees marking the now abandoned kumana village	We spent some time here enjoying the tranquility and beauty of kumana villuwa

Walk from Kumana villuwa to Madame Thota in the banks of Kumbukkan oya was not that difficult. Of course my legs did not want to walk any more from Kumana villuwa so I was literally dragging my feet

Approaching Madame Thota (මඩමෙ තොට) at Kumbukkan Oya

Kuda Kabiliththa Devalaya

We settled down in the bank of the river to spend the night.

Day 2

Early morning on the following day we started our walk by crossing Kumbukkan Oya to enter Yala Block II. Next major milesotone was Menik Ganga at the opposite border of block 2 which was 30km from where we were. Pilgrims would generally spend two days walking this distance with a night park at Navaladi/Pahala Poththana fresh water wells (a.k.a Pahala Poththana camp site).

However our plan was to try and do this stretch in a single day and earn a full rest day at Menik Ganga. It was a demanding task. To accomplish our objective, we had to reach Navaladi wells before noon so that we can rest their during the mid day and do the second stretch in the afternoon when heat subside. There is 14km from Kumbukkan Oya to Navaladi wells and further 16km from there to Menik Ganga.

Crossing Kumbukkan Oya was a breeze since the river mouth had been cleared the day before and the water level was very low. We were told that the water level had been at chest height few hours before we arrived at Kumbukkan oya the day before .

The first 6km from Kumbukkan oya was mostly through open areas and scrubs. It really helped that we staretd early. By 9 a.m. the heat was so high that we could feel the rising heat from the ground hitting the face!

Crossing Kumbukkan Oya - Time 5.45 a.m.	Walking through scrubs towards open areas
Sunrise over tree tops	Vast open areas of Yala Block II - The trick is to cover as much as possible before it heats up!
Two Long Shadows - 6.30 in the morning at Ettarakke Eliya	Passing Karambe Aru

By the time we reached Karambe Aru it was 7.00 in the morning. We took some rest there particulalry to make sure that I get my feet properly dressed with plasters to avoid water blisters.  Continuous walking in heat is a perfect formula to get water blisters all over your feet. Even though I was wearing a light pair of sandles which I had used for some time, there were certain points which showed vulnerability. The best way to deal with blisters is to avoid them. To avoid them one should carefully dress vulnerable points with layers of platers and maintain the plaster cover. It was particularly difficult to maintain plasters in this stretch since there were couple of water crossings.

Also thanks to Priyanjan I was able to change my foot ware couple of times. That too helped a lot particularly the seasoned sandles Priyanjan had worn from Trinco downwards were very useful.

Passing Karambe Aru we reached vast open areas of Uda Gajaba eliya. Time was 8.00 in the morning but the heat of the sun was already high in the open muddy bare lands of Gajaba Eliya.

Muddy	...and dry in some sections
Stretches with Thorny bushes needed some additional care when walking	කෝප්‍රල් කටු - The needles resemble the insignia of Corporal and hence the name

Passing open areas of Gajaba Eliya, we entered more scrubby forest. While the presence of large trees occasionally provided the much needed shelter from the simmering heat, underfoot conditions became more difficult with long stretches of deep,hot,soft sand.

Entering the scrub forest

Hot, deep, soft sand which covered considerably long stretches did not help at all!

We battled through the scrubs, dragged down by the sand for about 4km and reached open areas of Etheliwela Kalapuwa. Time was quarter past nine but the dry open stretch looked and felt like a desert!

Dry open stretch of Etheliwela Eliya looked and felt like a desert

Left Behind

After Etheliwela Eliya it was again a brief scrub forest and then we were in Pahala Poththana where we had to cross some what deep water to avoid a long walk around the water body. Crossing over and a brief walk took us to Navaladi/Pahala Poththana rest area.

Water Crossing at Pahala Poththana

After the water crossing - Those layers and layers of plasters did the job very well. I finished the walk with no water blisters

It was just 10.30 in the morning but heat was already unbearable. We settled down under a huge Dun tree to spend time until the heat subsides in the afternoon.

We boiled some water and purified some more with Alum and Chlorine. Chaturanga and his colleagues had come prepared for some serious cooking so a heavy lunch was ready in no time!

Cooking Rice and Boiling Water	Lunch!
Place of God	Three Fresh water wells at Navaladi

We left Pahala Poththana around 2.30p.m. Heat was still high but at least it was on the declining trend! There was 16km to reach Menik Ganga from where we were.

From Pahala Poththana, after a brief walk in a forest patch, we reached Uda Poththana, another vast open area. We had to cross some water again and re-dress my feet with plasters!

Back on Track after more than 4 hour break at Navaladi/Pahala Poththana Wells. Occasional large trees like this provide much needed shade for short breaks	Time was 3.00 p.m. We were approaching Uda Poththana Open area
Water Crossing at Uda Poththana Lawaya	Uda Poththana

After Uda Poththana, it was a long walk through the forest. Heat was low now and walk through the forest was slightly easier.

Long walk through the scrub forest

We stopped every hour or so to take a short rest

End of another day at Yala

By the time we came out of the forest in to the open areas of Pilinnawa Eliya, it was late in the afternoon. Light was fast diminishing and we saw few groups of Pilgrims who had decided to spend the night at Pilinnawa Eliya without proceeding to Menik Ganga due to night fall.

We were however determined to reach Menik Ganga. It was about 5km to Menik ganga from Pilinnawa. We continued our walk along the jeep track in the dark with the help of head lamps.

We almost missed Katupila Ara crossing point where the Pada Yatra route takes a short cut through Yala Wela and deviate from the jeep track. Lukily, there were couple of army personnel setting up a water point for Pilgrims who showed us the right way. They had also marked the path through Yala Wela which helped us reach Menik Ganga without further trouble.

At Menik Ganga we reached an Army point where they had setup a “Dan sala” to offer plain tea to Pilgrims. We decided to spend the night there.

Walk in the dark with aid of head lamps	Signs showing us the way through Yala Wela
At the bank of Menik Ganga - We decided to spend the night here	Fire!

Day 3

The following day was the well earned rest day for us. We woke up early in the morning. Guys who chose to sleep outside have had a time with mosquitoes while Priyanjan and I slept in the small tent we brought.

On the first light of the day we packed up and moved little further upstream on Menik Ganga bank to find a place where we could dip in water for the whole day! Roughly a kilometer along the river from the point we reached Menik Ganga towards Warahana was a designated camping ground during Pada Yatra so we had plenty of choice in terms of camping locations.

Good Morning!	Little tent saved us from Mosquitoes
Beautiful Mekin Ganga beside the location we chose to move our camp to	This is where we spent most of the day three - Enjoying the well earned rest day in the river

About 1km along the river from the point we reached Menik Ganga towards warahana is designated camping ground during Pada Yatra

Place of God - Some groups may spend couple of days here after the long walk, some walking all the way from Jaffna. If you are interested in the culture aspect of Pada Yatra plan to spend some time here with the pilgrims.

Our Camping Location of the Third day - Just couple hundrad meters away from where we spend the second night

Cooking! - Even though Priyanjan and I had planned for zero cooking Chaturanga and the team were well prepared for it!

Day 4

Fourth day walk was by far the easiest out of all five days we walked. We only had to cover 8km, all of which along the jeep track through well shaded Riverine forest. It was a piece of cake compared to the terrain we tackled before!

Well shaded track to Warahana	While walking towards Warahana we did not forget to reach the river from time to time and enjoy the serene beauty of it
Reflection!	A tarantula we came across - It was hunting termites when we found it

By 10 a.m. we were at Warahana. Chaturanga and the team decided to continue to Kataragama on the same day while the two of us, the old folk, decieded to spend the rest of the day again in the river!

We set up our tent at a nice location in the river bank and spent the rest of the day in water watching  fishing action of a white bellied sea eagle. It was so peaceful and refreshing. We were also lucky to receive some tasty ආමි බත් ගෙඩි for lunch and dinner from the Warahana camp !

Looooong dip for the second consecutive day	The sea eagle which entertained us for hours with acrobatic fishing
Our tent at Warahana - again in the bank of Menik Ganga	ආමි බත් ගෙඩිය
The veteran - Collapsible bucket which helped us in water purification throughout the journey

Day 5

On the fifth and the final day we queued up early with Pilgrims and waited until the gate was open for us to cross Warahana bridge and enter block 3 of Yala. The gate is only open from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. It is not allowed to stay over night beyond Warahana until you move out of the national park via the Katagamuwa entrance.

Total distance to Kataragama is roughly 20km from Warahana.

From Warahan to Katagamuwa Entrance it was around 7km. All of that was  a walk along the jeep track through scrub forest typical in Yala block 1 & 3.

Waiting for the Gate to open	Crossing over to Yala Block 3 - Warahana Bridge
Directions	Blossoms
Sithulpawwa	Dead and Decaying

Walking out of Yala - Katagamuwa

At Katagamuwa Entrance - Yala National Park

Leaving Yala, we continued our walk along the gravel roads through Katagamuwa Sanctuary on Sithulpawwa road towards Kochchipatana (7km from Katagamuwa). Kochchipatana is the night halting place for the pilgrims who generally spread the walk from Warahana to Kataragama across two days.

It was 10 in the morning by the time we reached Kochchipatana. None of the pilgrim seemed to have arrived by that time. Preperations were underway to welcome the first large groups of pilgrims. There was a kovil at Kochchipatana.

Sithulpawwa Road through Katagamuwa Sanctuary	Katagamuwa Sanctuary (Click Image to Enlarge)
Signs of Civilization close to Kochchipatana	Kovil at Kochchipatana

Passing Kochchipatana we entered tarred road towards Kataragama. With a stop at a small “kade” to have some short eats and a drink, we arrived at Kataragama Devalaya by 12.30 p.m. Preperations for the annual festival and Perehara was at full swing. We ended our walk there visualizing what it will look like in the coming days when thousands of Pilgrims, who come walking in Pada Yatra and some others who chose to use more modern and easier modes all to get here for the Perehera!

From Gravel road to tarred roads	Where we stopped for some short eats and a drink
80km Vs 800km - I must do the 800km walk before I die!	Approaching Kataragama Sacred city
At the destination - Kataragama Devalaya	Preparations for the festival

It was a short Backpacking session [Travelled alone]. Left Colombo on the 23rd Dec [Friday] night and reached Pattipola on the 24th Dec at 04:30 hrs. Slept at the Pattipola train station till dawn and commenced my walk to Thotupola Kanda, 3rd highest peak in Sri Lanka, via Horton Plains at 07:10 hrs. Reached the summit and got back to the Pattipola Station by 11:46 hrs [18Kms by foot]. After a short break I started my railway trek to Ohiya from Pattipola at 12:00 hrs [06 Kms by foot]. Was able to arrive at the Ohiya station by 13:50 hrs and on my way I have walked through 04 railway tunnels including the 3rd longest Tunnel in Sri Lanka [Tunnel No.18]. Got to Badulla by train from Ohiya by 18:30 hrs [train was delayed a bit] and got into the train from Badulla on the same day and got back to Colombo by 06:00 hrs on the 25th Dec 2011.

I started my Journey from Colombo on the 23rd Dec 2011. Though I was informed that the tickets for Colombo – Badulla Night-mail train was fully sold out I tried my luck again on that day as I got down from Pettah Station around 18:00 hrs and I was lucky enough to obtain a 3rd Class Pre-booked Seat for my Journey.
The Night- mail train left the Colombo Fort Station exactly at 20:00 hrs and I reached my destination Pattipola Station at 04:30 hrs on the 24th Dec.

After I got down from the station I looked around for the friendly face of our dear old Station master Mr. Jayathileka. But to find out that he is been transferred to a nearby station and a new humble Station Master by the name of Mr. Rajarajasinghe [Hope I got the name correct] has been appointed for the Pattipola station who will be officially commencing his duty from 1st of January 2012. He is a very down-to-earth gentleman who is a nature enthusiastic as well.

Since it was still dark I had a little nap of around 2 hours at the Pattipola Station on a cold frozen bench when the temperature was around 12C.

After having an early Breakfast at a small shop nearby I commenced my walk to Horton Plains from the Pattipola Railway Station @ 07:10 hrs

NOTICE BOARD NEAR THE PATTIPOLA RAILWAY STATION (Click Image to Enlarge)

PICTURES TAKEN BY ME ON MY WAY FROM PATTIPOLA TRAIN STATION TO HORTON PLAINS

On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains	On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains
On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains	On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains
On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains	On the way from Pattipola Station to Horton Plains

FAMOUS AMBEWELA FARM GREENLAND

I reached the Horton Plains Pattipola Entrance at 08:20 hrs and was met with my Trekker – Thushara [21 years] who is a young energetic person who is working for the Wild life Dep on volunteer basis! With him I commenced by journey to Thotupola Kanda which is the 3rd Highest Peak in Sri Lanka standing at an altitude of 2359M from the Mean Sea Level. It was just a 02 Km hike to the summit from Horton Plains. However as we climbed we felt that the O2 percentage is comparatively less hence we had to control our breathing and to inhale air as much as possible which will be a very good experience for those of you who have not encountered such an altitude before. On our way Thushara explained to me many things and also about how the maintenance of the trek is done and as per to him the path which leads to the summit is been cleared by the help of YZA [Young Zoologists’ Association

Thotupola Kanda (Click Image to Enlarge)

PICTURES TAKEN BY ME ON MY WAY TO REACH THE SUMMIT OF THOTUPOLA KANDA

On the way to summit of Thotupola Kanda	On the way to summit of Thotupola Kanda
On the way to summit of Thotupola Kanda	On the way to summit of Thotupola Kanda

The GPS point at the summit

From the summit of Thotupola Kanda you are able to get a superb 360* Arial view of the Horton Plains and of course all the mountains that are quite a picturesque sight!

Adams Peak in a distance

On completion after spending sometime at the summit I returned to the Horton Plains Pattipola entrance and bid farewell to my Fellow Mate Thushara and walked back to the Pattipola Station on foot.

After a walk of around 1 Hour and 10 minutes I reached the Pattipola Station by 11:40 hrs. I rested until 12:00 hrs while getting ready for the rail Hike. I have kept my mobile phone inside my back-pack while bringing out the torch where I can reach it easily and with my jacket and boots well tucked to avoid any wet condition that I may have to encounter during the hike.

Finally I checked with the station master about the train timings to check if I am to expect any trains while I am hiking upto Ohiya along the rail track [AN IMPORTANT FACTOR TO CHECK TO AVOID UN-EXPECTED DANGER]

Then by 12:00 hrs I was on my way along the rail track. ETA for the next train was approximately around 14:00 hrs.

PICTURES TAKEN BY ME DURING MY RAIL ROAD HIKE FROM PATTIPOLA TO OHIYA

.	Summit Level
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Tunnel Number 18 - The 3rd Longest tunnel in Sri Lanka 321.95m long	Tunnel Number 18 (Click Image to Enlarge)
Tunnel Number 18 - Halfway through the tunnel it is pitch black and the ground below is slippery

The exit from Tunnel No. 18 towards Ohiya

from Tunnel No. 18 towards Ohiya

If you walk through the Tunnel No. 18 from one side to the other you will realize how unique it is since the climates of the two ends are quite different from one another. While the Pattipola Entrance to the tunnel is comparatively warm and hot the exit towards Ohiya side is with a chilling/cold climate as you can see in the picture above

TUNNEL NO. 20 - My favorite..!

TUNNEL NO. 20

Even though you can see the exit at the other end of the tunnel, when you enter it just keeps on going and going like in those nightmare movies where the light is running away from you when you try to reach it

Though it is not very obvious you need a torch to go through this tunnel as well since it get’s pitch dark towards the core of it even when you can see the end at the other side.

During my trek from Pattipola to Ohiya I came across 04 tunnels.
Tunnel No. 18, 19, 20, 21 out of which Tunnel No 18 & 20 are comparatively long.

Just before I came across the below shown metal bridge all of a sudden out of nowhere there was a flying insect buzzing in my right ear and I believe it bit me before flying away leaving me with an aching ear [didn’t get a time to have a proper look at it but it was more or less like the common “kumbala” insects you get here in Colombo] to get rid of the pain though that is not the proper medicine for such incidents I applied Salonpas which I carried in my medikit just to be on the safe side since I do a lot of walking

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After 06 Kms by foot along the rail road I arrived at the Ohiya Railway Station at 13:50 hrs

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As usual the station master at the Ohiya Railway station greeted me with a humble smile and a chat about my journey so far and I enjoyed the chat with him pretty much.

The train which was expected around 14:00 hrs arrived pretty late around 15:30 hrs only. I got in and reached Badulla around 18:30 hrs from where I purchased a 3rd class ticket for the Badulla – Colombo Night-mail train putting an “End” to my short back-packing session for the Christmas 2011!

Day 1
We started our journey from Hikkaduwa at about 4.30pm and reached to Kaduwela at about 7.30. We spent the night at our relation’s place.

Day 2
We left Kaduwela at 4.00am and headed along the low level road reached to Avissawella about 5.00. We could see the first rays of the day at Kithulgala.

We stopped at a small restaurant near by the river and had hoppers as our breakfast.

Dawn at Kithulgala	Breakfast at Kithulgala
Early Morning at Kelani ganga	We noticed a giant moth near Kelani ganga which was attacked by a predator

We turned to B189 road from A7 at somewhere between Ginigathhena and Kithulgala. (I don’t know the exact name of the junction. A villager said that it is ‘Pitawala’. There is a police barrier here.)

Turning point

The road from here to Norton Bridge shapes very bad. But it spreads through very beautiful area. (Near Seven Virgins hills)

.	At the seven virgins hills near by ‘Koththellena’
Breathtaking scenery from the top of kottellena

Then we reached to the city of Norton Bridge and had a cup of tea from a small restaurant and headed towards Hatton.

In memory of Martin Air DC 8 crash

The road from Hatton to NuwaraEliya shapes very bad. (Specially the part from Kotagala to Thalawakele.) The situation became worst because of the construction of Ihala Kothmale hydro power house. The whole area was covered with the dust. We stopped few minutes at the beautiful and very famous waterfall.

Then it was the time to stop at another marvel of the nature, the St. Clair’s falls. But it looks little dirty because of the constructions of the power house.

Devon the veil of bride nature…

We tried in our best to avoid the wires but failed….

Then we headed to Nuwara Eliya and reached there about 1.30pm. We had the lunch at Sri Ambal’s vegetarian café. Then we went to the government holiday bungalow and the caretaker Thissa welcome us warmly. We went to the Gregory lake in the evening and enjoyed the activities like riding bicycles, walking etc.

Gregory lake in the evening

Gregory lake in the evening

Day 3

It was a bright morning. No rain or mist at all. We decided to leave as early in the morning to visit Horton Plains. We rode quickly to the same vegetarian café and had a heavy breakfast consisting of Thosai, Wadei, etc. Then we headed to Horton Plains via Pattipola.

Road towards Horton plains	Kande Ela reservoir
Heaven on earth at Ambewela

We stopped for a few minutes at Ambewela farm and tasted fresh yoghurt and proceed

Pattipola Railway Station	Horton Plains Location Map (Click Image to Enlarge)
Sri Padaya from Horton Plains	Breathtaking view of the plain

The plain was quite dry as there was no rain for a long time. The dust was there instead of mist.

.	A fresh water crab caught at the red bridge
.	Mini World’s End
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Dwarf Bamboo bushes	Beautiful tiny flower

We roamed all over the plains leisurely. We came across an endemic lizard coming out from a bush

Endemic lizard

We were quite sorry to see that many invasive species were spread all over the plains. Gorse (Ulex europeous) shows a noteworthy growth there. We noticed that some trails were totally covered with this plant making tunnels

Ulex tunnel

Ulex europeus

We were lucky enough to see some Maha Rathmal flowers blooming around chimney pool and my wife’s vigilant eyes found a Binara flower too.

Rhodrodendron (Maha Rathmala)

Binara

We reached to the ticketing office back at about 4.30pm. We collected our helmets there. We were quite tired at the moment as we had only biscuits and tea for our lunch. So we rode directly to NuwaraEliya and had a vegetarian diet at Ambaals.

Day 4

That was the final day of our journey. We woke up early in the morning and left NuwaraEliya about 6.00am. It was extremely cold and mist in the morning. We rode along Welimada road (was under construction those days) and turn to Bogahakumbura road from Keppetipola.

Road from NuwaraEliya to Welimada

From Boralanda we headed to Haputale. It was about 7.30am when we reached to Haputale. Then we stopped at Haldummulla to by some Aligeta Pera (Avacado).

We had our breakfast at a small restaurant near by the main road.

From Balangoda we turn to Kahawatta and reached to Madampe. The road shaped little bad from Madampe to Rakwana but we were able to manage.

.	A tea break at Beragala

Road go through the heaven after Rakwana. We met hairpin bends. We stopped our bike near Rakwana Bridge and walk along the river until we met a nice place to have a bath. We met other two guys who are also traveling by a motorcycle. They have come all the way from Kelaniya. That was the 3rd day of their trip. They wished to pay a visit to Morning side. They were exploring a hermitage inside the jungle near by Rakwana in the morning. We wish them a safe journey and they wished the goodwill of us too.

Dipping in the icy cold water

It was about 12.30pm when we left Rakwana. We reached to Deniyaya about 2.00pm and had out lunch there. Then we headed to Akuressa, Yakkalamulla and Hikkaduwa. It was about 6.00pm when we come back home.

Road from Rakwana to Deniyaya

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We started journey from Gampaha at 3.30 a. m. Very less traffic on the way and we could reach Riverston at 6.45. We were the first to be there for the day.

On our way to Reversturn.	We reached Reversturn gap at 6.45 am no mist at all
Reversturn gap	View from Reversturn gap
Start climbing up to riverston tower 7.30 am. (2 km)	On the way
SLT Tower Reversturn	We had to pay much attention to kids running here and there. No wind at all

We left Reversturn around 9.30 am and this is on our way to Pitawala pathana.

This is between Reversturn and Pitawala. I don’t kanow what it is	We reached Pitawala Pathana around 10.30 am
Mini worlds end	View from Pitawala Pathana
Paddy fields at beautiful Rathninda

Manigala behind the scene. This is around 5 Km away from the Hittipola Road. The road was very bad condition and difficult manage with the car. We had to stop the car and walk last 2 km.

Thelgamu Oya at Rathnida	Weddapani Ella Rathnida (Etanwala border). Really worth coming here
Short cut to Weddapani Ella. We got our lunch here (Parcels prepared from home.)

We could reach Wasgamuwa around 3.00 pm. Unfortunately we could see only elephants, Peacocks and few other birds.

we could see only elephants, Peacocks and few other birds

Mahaweli Ganga at Wasgamuwa

Then we reach Wilgmuwa and spend night at Irrigation Department Bangalow beside the Nipon bridge

Irrigation Department Bungalow Wilgamuwa

Day 2

Sandy Mahaweli river at Wilgamuwa

Structure with Architecture – Nipon Bridge Wilgamuwa

We started journey at 7.30 ,crossed the Nipon bridge and reached Dimbulagala around 9.00 am.

Dimbulagala Rajamaha Viharaya	View from top of the Dimbulagala Rock
Timber statures in Dimbulagala temple

Then we travelled up to Madakalapuwa (Batticaloa) junction at turn right and reach Sewanapitiya. We turned left at Sewanapitiya and reached Nelumwewa hot springs at around 12.30 pm. Wells are situated inside the tank had to use boat to reach there.

Somaweera who knows a lot about the area and history of the springs	Nelum wewa hot springs. Hottest springs in Sri Lanka. Cannot bath without mixing
More information on Hot Springs of Sri Lanka	Nice summer hut constructed by Mahaweli Authority. We got our lunch there
A road to wells is under construction. I don’t know what will happen to innocent Somaweera’s job	There are lots of trees around. I don’t know why it chose to perch here?

We bought good dry fish from Ottamawadi , on the way to Passikudah. We reached Passikudha around 3.30 pm

Crowded Passikudha beach	He likes and wants to swim. But………
Coconut Cultivation Board Circuit Bungalow No. 2

Coconut Cultivation Board Circuit Bungalow No. 2. Where we spend second day night. I learn about this place from Lakdasun

Day 3

Start journey around 7.30 am. We drove northward along A15 road. Road is superb rarely find a vehicle

A bridge under construction	Fuel station Vakarai
A15 Road

We turned left just after Verugal and drive towards Lankapatuna. Road condition is very good. We visited Pashana Pabbatha Viharaya on the way. It had been used as “Koti Handa” transmission station past

Pashana Pabbatha Viharaya and Koti-handa transmission tower

Top of the rock at Pashana Pabbatha Viharaya

We could reach Lankapatuna around 10.30 am. We had to use free boat service operated by RDA to reach temple.

We had to use free boat service operated by RDA to reach temple

Broken bridge at Lankapatuna

View of beautiful beach at Lankapatuna

Then we came back to A15 road and drive towards trinco and turn left before serunuwara to reach Seruwawila temple. A culvert is under construction and we had to use a by road which was in very bad condition

We could reach Seruwawila temple around 2.30 pm	Ruins at Seruwavilla
Ancient pond at Seruwavilla

We started our long return journey from Seruwavilla around 4.00 pm. We used Serunuwara – Kanthale Road and spend around ½ hour on Kanthale tank bund

We spent around ½ hour on Kanthale tank bund

We reached Gampaha around 9.00 pm we had travelled 780km.

Lakdasun was a great help to organize the trip and thanks all Lakdasun members

Early morning on Friday we started from Colombo and headed straight to Back of Beyond – Gurugoda. We were greeted by Ajith and Anverdeen (a veteran trekker with excellent knowledge about Yala) along with Priyanjan who were waiting there to join the four day excursion to explore, particularly the block two of Yala national park. Yohan’s Nissan Patrol and Ajith’s Land Rover were quickly loaded with supplies and we left straight away to Palatupana Entrance.

At Back of Beyond - Gurugoda

Formalities at the park office did not take long. Wildlife department guide assigned to us was Premarathne. Premarathne is one of the most expreinced guides in service at the department today and he claimed that he is a descendant of Henry Engelbrecht, the first park warden of Yala. Well, he knew Yala well but largely his attitude and certain behaviors did not make us very comfortable with him.

Leaving park office we drove along the Yala main road to paranaganthota (a.k.a Parana Thotupola) where we crossed Menik River and entered Block 2. Our camp site was “Nuga Sevana”, one of the newer camp sites established on the bank of the river. It was only a couple hundred meters away from Paranaganthota (පරන ගං තොට).

Location of the camp site was good, particularly because of its proximity to the river. The river was so inviting with shallow flowing water and clean sandy bottom so that we couldn’t resist a long bath under the shade of giant Kumbuk trees every day! One of the negatives of the camp site’s location was its proximity to the Paranaganthota which is the designated resting place for day visotrs to Yala Block I. On Saturday and Sunday we got disturbed by their noise occasionally. Also there are couple other camp sites on the either banks of the river in some what close proximity. If a party at any one of the camp sites does not behave well, that tend to disturb the rest of the sites. On one of the nights we could hear people singing at one of the other camp sites (most likely Kosgasmankada). Wonder why the wildlife guide who should have been with them did not stop them.

It took some time for us to setup our tents. We had quite a number of them.

Crossing Over to Block 2 at Parana Gan Thota	At Nuga Sewana Camp Site
Menik River bordering the camp site	So obviously this is what we did for hours EVERY day

After setting up tents we had lunch we brought form BOB-Gurugoda. After lunch we relaxed a bit, and set out for the first drive in block 2. Passing Yala wela (යාල වෙල), we drove up to Katupila Ara (කටුපිල ආර).

Yala Wela with Maliththan Trees scattered

Water level in Katupila ara was too high for a vehicle to cross it safely at the usual crossing point. This is a usual occurance, particulalry in the dry season, when river mouth gets blocked with sad, forcing water to build up upstream.

Katupila Ara - Water Level was high due to closed river mouth

Mangrove Roots, Katupila Ara

We had to drive couple of kms  upstream to find a suitable crossing point with less water and we did a hassle free cross over to the other side.

Having crossed Katupila Ara, we drove back along the opposite bank of it and got back on the main road. Passing vast, dry, open, sandy sections of Pilinnawa Eliya (පිළින්නාව එලිය) we drove along the main road towards Kumbukkan Oya. On our list to see were fresh water wells at Pahala Poththana (also known as the Navaladi wells in Paada Yatra) and Uda Poththana Modara (උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

As soon as we entered Block 2, we immediately noticed two remarkable differences in the animals we saw, compared to block 1. The first was the size of herds of Deer, Buffalow and Boar. Every herd we saw had many dozens of animals which was a great sight to see. The second was their unfamiliarity with vehicles. Every creature we saw would start running like mad as soon as it saw our vehicles!

We came across large groups of Deer, Buffaloes and Boar but all of them were on the run!

A Large group of Wild Boar, again running like crazy for the dear life!

Occasionally there were "Brave Hearts" as well

We drove mostly  along the main road through scrub forest typical in the area. Passing open areas at Uda Poththana (උඩ පොත්තන), we drove further down towards Pahala Poththana (පහළ පොත්තන). To reach fresh water wells, one should deviate from the main road towards right, just before entering open areas at Pahala Poththana.

We first reached the place where there are three fresh water wells together. It immediately brought back memories of Pada Yatra we did couple of months back. While on Paada Yatra we spent couple of hours resting at this very same place. The only difference this time was that the huge Dun trees in the vicinity were full of fruits!

The three Wells

Dun Trees were full of Fruits

Signs of Pada Yatra

Signs of Pada Yatra

We left the three wells and drove few hundred meters further to reach another freshwater well. We were pelasantly surprised to find another hudge Dun tree full of fruits there as well. The Dun we found were much more tastier than what we had before .

Yummmmmmy!

Leaving fresh water wells we started our journey back along the main road. It was late in the afternoon and the light was perfect for photos.

Malabar Horn Bill in Flight	Herd of Spotted deer paused their mad run briefly and posed beautifully against the light
Harsh Dry Environment was certainly not forgiving the weak	Driving on the "Death Valley" - Uda Poththana
Spikes and the Spider Web	Closed River mouths force water to accumulate upstream like this, sustaining life in a death valley even during the height of the dry season

Once we returned to Uda Poththana area, which is supposed to be an abandoned saltern, we turned left from the main road and drove towards the sea to explore the river mouth (Uda Poththana Modara – උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) and the Estuary. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

We parked close to the beach and explored the area. With pure white sand and calm water of the Estuary bathing in the late afternoon light, it was such a beautiful sight to see.

Sky, Sand, Water and exposed Corals - Uda Poththana Modara

Magical setup at Uda Poththana Modera kept photographers busy!

Lonely "Krishan Putha" at Uda Poththana Modara; most likely brought here by the Tsunami

We tried to locate “earthened wells” some of the previous travellers had described at Uda Poththana but we couldn’t locate any signs of them. Both Anverdeen and Premarathne were of the opinion that those must have been washed away by the Tsunami as they had been located very close to water.

The day was coming to an end. We started our journey back to the camp site. On our way back we saw fresh paw marks of a leopard on the jeep track but were not luky to see it.

Fresh Paw Marks on the Jeep Track

Heading back to Camp Site

Day 2

We left the camp site early morning on Saturday. The Plan was to explore Pilinnawa sand dunes and “Miniha gal Kanda (මිනිහාගල්කන්ද)”.

We crossed Katupila Ara and reached Pilinnawa Eliya driving along the main road. Then we turned right towards the sea and drove until we reached Agara Ara (ආගර ආර). Turning left at Aragara Ara, we continued to drive along the bank of the Ara until we found a point where we could safely cross over to the other side (just like Katupila Ara, water level was high in Agara Ara too; both share the same river mouth). Once we crossed the Ara we tackled some steep climb up to the sand dune and parked right at the base of it. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

Parked at the Sand Dune at Pilinnawa

The sea is right there on the other side

It was very early in the morning (just past 6.00 a.m.). Sun had just started to emerged from the sea (Yes, we were in the east coast!). We climbed up the sand dune and reached the undisturbed, beautiful beach on the other side. To reach Miniha Gal Kanda we had to walk 2.1km along the beach. We thoroughly enjoyed this early morninng walk on the beatiful, undisturbed, remote beach. On our right had side it was the Indian Ocean meeting the horizon and on our left was the tall sand dune with perfect patterns created by wind, complimented by dune vegetation.

Sand Dunes complimented by dune vegetation

Rising Sun and the Ocean

The Walk; looking for the "lonely man in the beach"

Patterns on Sand and the colorful rock formations

Closer look at the patterns

……and the man came to our sight!

The rock was certainly resembling a man looking towards the vast ocean in a relaxed posture with his hands on the hips. “Miniha Gal Kanda” is said to be an ancient Coral reef which had been elevated from water a long time back and since then had been eroded by the wind and water to create some unique shapes like this “lonely man”. It is constantly changing, as per Anverdeen, who has seen the lonely man for more than half a century now,the man used to be even more prominent before.

The Lonely Man by the Sea - Miniha Gal Kanda

This is what the man is made of - A coral reef elevated from the sea many million years ago

The area immediately around the man was a fascinating geological formation. Continuous erosion of lose rock have created massive, roughly semi-circular craters with vertical walls. The rock wall was a live demonstration of what lies underneath, a perfect cross section with clearly segregated layers of earth in different colours. Travelers who visited the area before had called these gigantic craters “Amphitheaters” and they had described three of them.

One of the Gigantic Amphitheaters

Vertical Rock wall with layers of earth in different colours

We spent some times exploring the “Amphitheaters”. The rocks were so fragile and would trun in to powder with the ligthest pressure applied. Again Anverdeen recalled that the rock walls had changed drastically over the past few decades due to continuous erosion.

Travel literature describes three Amphitheaters along the coast. Even though we thought we saw all three,  Priyanjan’s studies of Google earth images afterwards suggests that we may have seen only the first one, or the first and the second. Certainly future visits are on plans to Verify

From the base of the Amphitheater

More like Martian Land than Earth

We also found evidence supporting the elevated coral reef theory. Hard shells of sea creatures could be seen trapped in lose rock. They appeared to be in some stage of fossilization.

Lose rocks that formed Amphitheaters

Evidence of early day sea life - Are these shells in some stage of Fossilization?

The sun was rising and the whole area was starting to heat up. Since we had a 2km walk back along the beach, we started our walk back by 8.15 a.m.

Light was getting Harsh

But photo opportunities were not all exhausted

A long the beach we walked back to where we started. Rather than walking back to the vehicles, we decided to continue the walk along the beach to reach the place where the Estuary opens up to the sea. We were also looking for an archaeological site where some stone pillars are said to be there. Again Anverdeen and Premarathna were able to show us the stone pillars scattered in the scrubs.

Pilinnawa Modara (Pellussa Modara) - Where water form Menik Ganga, Katupila Ara and Agara ara meets the sea

Two of the Stone Pillars. We saw couple more standing in the scrub forest close to the Modara

Estuary at Pilinnawa

Estuary at Pilinnawa - from another view point

We then returned to our vehicles. Getting them out of the dunes was not that straight forward!

Sand Dune 4X4 Action

Getting the Land Rover out of it was not that Straightforward

We drove back along the same track we came, crossed Agara Ara and approached the Estuary from the side of it. We found a large tree under which we settled down for breakfast.

Egg + Some sort of sauce + cheese sandwhich - Near Pillinnawa moya

After breakfast we returned to the main road and again continued along it towards Kumbukkan Oya. The plan this time was to explore “Mahirawa – මහිරාව” where a camp site from the hunting days with a waterhole that persists through the dry season were supposed to exist.

Passing Uda Poththana and Pahala Pothathana, we drove up to Ethiliwela Eliya (ඇතිලිවෙල එලිය).

At Pahala Poththana we drove passing the lonely Dan tree, known as “Boer’s Tree” which is said to be where Henry Engelbrecht (The first Park warden of Yala National park during the colonial era) used to camp. (View  Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ) )

"Boer's Tree" at Pahala Poththana where Henry Engelbrecht said to have camped.

Ethiliwela Eliya is another open, dry stretch of land around an Estuary (The water ways that feed this estuary are Athurumithuru Ara – අතුරුමිතුරු ආර and Nabadagas Ara – නාබඩගස් ආර).  Again we turned right towards the sea and drove around Ethiliwela Kalapuwa (Lagoon) in an attempt to reach Mahirawa beach. Again, water bodies were pretty full and we could not approach the sea. We parked beneath a large Dun (දං) tree, again full of fruits, and decided to have lunch there.

The five Dead Bodies! (and the authorities discussing how to dispose them)- After Lunch at Mahirawa

We did not particularly attempt to locate the fresh water hole or the camp site. Water levels was restrictive and we had no specific clues to look for on the ground. Anverdeen and Premarathne were also not too sure about the exact location of the campsite/water hole.

After some rest at Mahirawa, we headed towards “Walas Kema – වලස් කෙම”, another camping location said to have been frequented by the hunters in early 1900 when Yala was a game reserve.

At Walaskema we found a large rock scattered with several water holes (Kemas), most of them had water even in this height of the dry season. View from  top of Walaskema was nice too. Also there were signs of steps cut in the rock surface leading to one of the water holes. May be work of hunters or can this also be an archelogocal site?

Walaskema - Three of the water holes in the rock bed	View from the top - Walaskema
.	Clean Bones of a beast, according to Anverdeen and Premarathne it is not uncommon for animals to fall in to these waterholes or get ambushed by a waiting leopard in their desperate search for water in dry season

On our return journey to the camp site we explored the large earth mound right by the jeep track, close to Katupila Ara, known as “Weheragodella – වෙහෙරගොඩැල්ල”. The inch maps shows a Dagaba in ruins here but we couldn’t locate any signs of it. The soil and the rokcs appeared to be different in color and heavier than ususal. The surrounding and the rocks reminded us of a large meteorite impact site.

Weheragodella as seen from the main road	Climbing up
View from the top	Unusually heavy, colored Rocks - Can this be a Meteorite impact site

Leaving Weheragodella we came back to the camp site along the usual track. A gentle giant proved that our decision not to cross Katupila Ara at the usual crossing point was a very rational one!

Crossing the road between the two Jeeps

Getting in to Katupila Ara

Crossing over to the other side - as you can see there was enough water to submerge this giant so a vehicle crossing the Ara at this point is impossible

Day 3

We had explored most of the key places in the block 2 during past two days. Several other places we wanted to see were lying in areas not open to visitors (inside the strict nature reserve) and we did not want to break any rules. Also the drives in block 2 did not give us opportunities to observe wildlife. Therefore we decided to dedicate the third day to explore block 1.

An elephant feasting early morning at Buthawa lake

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Driving by the Elephant Rock also know as Akasa Chaithya - You can see ruins of two Dagabos at the top of this rock

An egret

A common Kingfisher

Early Morning at Parana Gan Thota

As we return to the camp site after the morning drive, we were called up on to help a jeep stuck in Katupila Ara.  Some 4X4 craze had foolishly attempted to cross the Ara from the wrong point. They had no guide with them and had not got proper permission to enter block 2 even! Apparently he drove the jeep in to the water with women and kids on board just of the fun of it and and ended up like this!

Stupid and Irresponsible are the most suitable words to describe the situation

We Pulled it out. Since the vehicle could not be started, they had to tow it out of the park with the help of the other vehicle which accompanied them

After breakfast Anverdeen shared some of his experience with us. It was very interesting to listen to him. We were particularly interested to find about  ”Ali manthara – අලි මංතර” from Anverdeen. Our conclusion on  අලි මංතර was that it is the aggressive and dominant behavior demonstrated by the person who chants the Mantra that deter the elephant, not the Mantra it self!

How about some sweets after breakfast - we had a load of sweets

Anverdeen Relating a Story

Around 3.00 p.m. we again headed towards Block 1 in anticipation of seeing more wildlife. It certainly was a good start with a peacock in full display.

Beautiful Display

The next sighting was this bear. It was feasting on Maliththan seeds and we watched it in close range for a quite long time

Bear feasting on "Maliththan" seeds

Closer look

Leaving the bear we drove towards Darshana wewa (Modaraagala Digana Wewa). On our way, we came across a family of yellow wattled lapwings. Two parent birds and their three little chicks. As soon as the parent’s saw us approaching, they forced the little ones under their wings. One of the chicks however kept coming out despite the parent bird’s desperate attempts to keep it under the cover.

Mother's protection - One chick is already hidden (you can only see its legs) and another one is hurrying in!

One brave chick kept coming out despite its mothers desperate attempt to keep it under the cover

By the time we reached Darshana Wewa it was late in the after noon. We drove along the earth bund enjoying the tranquility.The place looked very calm and quite with only some birds and couple of crocs in the vicinity.

Crocodiles at Darshana Wewa

1...2...3....

The silence did not last for long. A herd of elephants (with young) got in to water form the opposite bank of the lake. They walked right in to the middle of the lake and started drinking and bathing. It was such a lovely sight to see . The herd would keep the little ones right in the middle of the pack and would chase away anything that came close to the herd, including birds and even Crocs, quite aggressively.

The herd walking in to water with Young in the Middle

Enjoying the cool dip - All what the Croc could do was to watch

Drinking.....

After some time, the herd decided to get out of water. Again, chasing anything and everything that came in their way, the whole group came out of the lake.

Walking out of water

" Being BIG means a lot" - this young calf learnt it first hand (it was just a mock charge and there were no casualties!)

The herd then started spreading sand/dust all over them and we decided to leave them alone.

With the last rays of  sun hiding behind the tree line, we returned to the camp site with exciting memories of the day.

Sun Setting behind the tree line over a lake

Day 4

It was the final day!

We decided to do a one last round in Block 1. The very first destination of the morning was “Padikema – පඩි කෙම” rock to see whether the famous “Rukvila” cubs are around. Sure enough, they were there.

Wake up brother

Jumping out of the bed!

The play continued at the base of the rock

Siblings In Actions!

.	Walking against the Light

It was such an amazing sight to see!

The place started to become congested with more and more jeeps gathering there to see the cubs. Therefore we decided to leave them and explore more of the park.

Seen on the opposite side of "Padikema" rock	Flowers seen close to Patanangala beach
Buthawa Lake	More early morning activity

The last treat of the trip was again a herd of elephants. This time, they were busy playing on a newly built bund of a tank (breaking a good part of it in the process!)

Pushing and Pulling	A closeup
Colorful Dust Bath	.
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Well it was time to say goodbye to all the wonderful things at Yala. We left the paradise behind and faced the relaity of having to go to the office and start work on the following day

My very first visit to Yala was in July 2010. “Armed” with my new Canon 100-400 we headed there with the hope of capturing a good shot or two of the elusive Sri Lankan Leopard. But much, much to our dismay, even after two rounds, we failed to catch even a glimpse of a Leopard! Dusty, tired and so disappointed, we headed back to Colombo. We must have been so upset with Yala, that Wilpattu got our undivided attention thereafter for the next 14 months

September 2011 came by – the time seemed ripe for “revenge”! So one fine afternoon, we headed off to Yala with renewed anticipation.

BUT FIRST, a relaxing evening at the new “hotspot” of Yala – the exciting new BACK OF BEYOND GURUGODA. Ever since seeing Priyanjan’s fantastic pictures, we were dying to experience the place first-hand. We were certainly not disappointed.

As are all BoB retreats, Back of Beyond Gurugoda is beautifully and thoughtfully designed – It is rustic but has ample comfort, with little touches that warms the heart. Priyanjan has captured all the “essentials”, but let me add something that made me smile.

A Deer with a Mission Didn’t you always want to hang your clothes on a Deer’s antlers? Well, here is your chance

The roof is beautifully thatched with palm leaves.
The color scheme is lovely, and the furniture has been carefully and artistically chosen.
There is one bedroom that sleeps 3, and two other beds outside.
The linen is crisp, clean and spotless white.
The toilet and washroom are both semi open-air. Lovely to gaze up on starry nights!
The cook and caretaker are very nice chaps and very accommodating.
Located only about 15 minutes away from Yala main entrance and situated before the Governer’s Camp (GC).
Just follow the sign boards to GC, but before that, you will find a “Designer Gate” to the left leading to BoB Gurugoda.
We heard that the latest Designer to add some finish touches was a Wild Elephant  :-)
It might be good to pay a visit to Back of Beyond Gurugoda before more people get to know of this lovely hideout.
You won’t be disappointed.

After a good night’s sleep, we started off to Yala feeling the warmth of the rising sun. The Jeep was hired from Yala Jeep Safaries, and driven by the owner’s son Sumudu, a good driver.
As usual, Yala was beaming with life, and before long, we couldn’t believe our luck when we spotted a Sloth Bear just by the roadside!!
I must have been so excited by my first wild Sloth Bear encounter that I totally forgot a basic rule of photography – always check your shot – only later did I realize that my camera settings were wayyy off, leading to shots so bad that I am ashamed to put them up here…sorry…
But we got to observe the bear for about 15 minutes, and it was a flying start to a great safari.
The first of the BIG THREE, THE BEAR covered! LEOPARD AND TUSKER to go. Fingers-crossed!

Our driver and our tracker were very eager to show us Leopards, and I must say we were so excited at the prospect too, but we did remember to take it a bit slow and enjoy the other beauties of Yala.

A dress that never ceases to impress - Indian Pea Fowl	black-naped hare
An albino Wild Boar

GOT TO REST TOO (A Spotted Dear resting under a Bonsai-like tree)

GOT TO REST TOO (a Grey Langur)

There were also Hornbills, Orange-breasted Pigeons, Serpent Eagles, a family of Jackals, Open-billed Stalks, Egrets, numerous crocs and many other birds. It was a beautiful flock of Painted Stalks that next caught our attention.

Try sitting like that!

Jumping the line!

More painted storks

“Am I the prettiest of ‘em all?”

You certainly are beautiful!

Ending a serene interlude, Sumudu’s cell phone rang. It was news of a Leopard!

When we got to the spot, two other Jeeps were already there, so we didn’t get the best view. But there they were, two Leopard cubs hidden well inside the bush. Finally, the dream of seeing a wild Leopard at Yala was coming true! Yippiee! When more Jeeps start arriving, one of them rose up and walked inside the bush, leaving only one, who compensated for her brother’s rude exit by posing for us beautifully.

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A final glimpse through the trees

Two of the “BIG THREE” – THE LEOPARD – Covered! Yayyyyyy

Fully satisfied, we returned to BoB Gurugoda for a good lunch. After resting a bit and enjoying the bungalow, we left and headed off to our accommodation inside Yala – the Old Butuwa Bungalow – to leave our bags and provisions before the evening round.

On the way, we had the privilege of spending some time with this Elephant Family – There was just us, which must have put them at ease. They went about enjoying the afternoon and giving us the pleasure of observing some heart-warming moments of Bonding and LOVE…

Trunks of all sizes …they can stroke..	…and wrap around …(Awwww…)
…or hold gently too…Awwwwwww

Seeing them so carefree, I thought, what a sin it is to disrupt their lives by robbing their habitats, or separating them, especially moms and calves, in order to satisfy Man’s personal gain or greed…They belong free in the Jungle…and we need to protect them.

Walking towards an uncertain tomorrow???? So hope not.. Dear God help us keep them safe

Warmed by the “Elephantine” Love, we arrived at the Old Butuwa Bungalow – Probably the best maintained bungalow in Yala, thanks to the caretaker KULE and his staff.

Old Butuwa Bungalow	Old Butuwa Bungalow
Lovely sea view from the bungalow	Fabulous view of the Elephant rock and beach from atop the rocky mountain

Panoramic view of the ocean and sky in various shades of blue

After a nice cup of tea, we started the evening round.

It was always a dream of mine to see a leopard on a tree, and it was about to come true. There he/she was – a very cute cub, lazily napping on a tree, observing the excited humans who were gathering fast to watch him

“Hmm, what a bunch of Nuts!”	“But I am too sleeeeeepy to keep my eyes open..zzzz”
“ok, ok just one pose ok”

After a lovely 20 minutes or so, the place became so congested we decided to leave and head off to a small lake close by, where a fully-grown Leopard had been observed the day before. We parked there, and patiently waited..a bit long..but the wait was finally rewarded by Leopard No. 4 for the day!

It suddenly appeared from behind a tree giving us a start!	After observing us for awhile, he decided to come out into the open Yes! We were delighted!
One SCARY Dude!!!!

He soon vanished off into the jungle, but we were happy to be the first to see him. Another jeep arrived as he went in. Don’t think they could see much..

It was getting somewhat dark and we decided to head towards the bungalow…on the way, we came across a fleet of vehicles. Two cubs and a mom! Leopards, 5, 6, 7 to complete the day. Mom was too hidden to photograph, but the two cubs were visible over the grass.

Could it be a boy and a girl?

Saying the Bedtime Prayers?

Sweet!

It was time for us to retire too.
We headed to the bungalow. When we arrived, we were a bit disappointed to hear that Gamini, the Tusker had just been there looking for food…come to think of it, we did hear some crackers – Kule and crew had used crackers to chase him away. We had missed a Tusker by a mere few minutes!

A good wash and a delicious dinner brightened our spirits, and we dozed off happily on the beds in the verandah, bathed in moonlight, to the lullaby of the sea.

The next morning, we were told to go to Rukvila as early as possible since the famous Rukvila cubs come there early morning to drink from it. When we got there, we could see fresh pug marks, but no cubs in sight. We drove towards the rocks, and as we took the bend, there was a leopard lying on a rock by the side of the road! Our driver for the day was a very young chap (Sumudu had a previous booking). Neither our tracker nor driver spotted it, and when my cousin who spotted it first said “Leopard”, our driver suddenly braked and stopped the Jeep right in front of the leopard! It looked at us for a couple of seconds (I thought he looked quite annoyed!), quickly got up, crossed the road and went up the rock. There was hardly anytime to get the cameras out… Lesson learnt : when a leopard is spotted suddenly, if you can’t give the Leopard a good distance, slowly drive by past it, turn and come back slowly. Give the leopard space so as not to bother or startle it. This will also give you good shutter chances than stopping abruptly in front.

We waited at the spot, being the only Jeep there. And a few minutes later the Rukvila Cubs appeared, Leopards 8,9 and 10.

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I may look sweet

but I can be scary too

climbing up the steep rock together

.	A beautiful finale

The last and final Leopard No. 11 was a very sleepy cub napping on a far-away rock near the fishing village.

I really wished I had a longer lens!

Afternoon round was nearing the end, and we had almost given up hopes of a Tusker, when we spotted an Elephant Family drinking water in a small pond. We stopped by to observe and the babies started playing in the mud! It was so sweet!

“Little Bro, I am gonna push you!”

Mission accomplished! See the small one on all fours? He had a time getting up!  But he sure was enjoying himself!

Then they came out and started playing again

Trunk Sumo?

A close up – Wait a minute! Could that be a small tusk on the little one in the right?

Have we completed the BIG THREE???
It seems like a Baby Tusker to ME
Well, I will leave it to you to decide

Thank you very much for reading!
Hope you enjoyed it.

We( 5 of us) started at 2.15 am on the 4th of November from Colombo and reached Yala office at 5.45 am. We were joined by 5 others who had come the previous day from Kandy and had stayed in Thissa.The group consisted of 3 families and 2 others who opted to leave the families behind. Buthuwa was booked for the 1st day and Ondaatje for the 2 nd night.Our tracker as usual was Shalika( t/p: 0776808666 ) and we went in at 6.10 as the office opens at 6 these days.

By 7.30 we had seen 3 leopards ( One at Rukwila) and a tusker as well.

1st at rukvila	2nd and 3rd
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Tusker (Gamini)	Tusker
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After making the round as planned we had breakfat near the river and crossed to go to block 2.We had to tow the Hi-Lux cab 3 times as there were mud and water from the rains in the previous days but it was expected and we wre prepared for that. We wanted to go upto the devalaya( Okanda) but came back as there was a noise in one of the jeeps.

.	Black Eagle
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Very Close	Ches nut Headed Bee Eater
Lesser Sand Plover	.
Jackals

Aferwards we proceeded to Buthuwa and after having lunch went to Thissa and got the jeep repaired.By the time we went back to the bungalow it was 7.30. We had a barbeque and some refreshments before dinner as well.It started raining heavily with lightning and thunder and we only could hope for the best.

The following morning when we woke up at 4.15 the stars were shining and we started at 5.30 and by 5.45 the sun rose and it was a beautiful day.And then the Leopard fiesta started and we were entertained by 9 leopards during the day. One was seen by only the jeep in front and 2 others were seen only and could not be photographed but it was so exciting and fulfilling.

4th	4th
5th	6th Crossing
6th Crossing	6th Crossing
7th	7th
7th	Button Quail
Croc	In full swing
In full swing	In full swing
Wild Boar	Changeble Hawk Eagle
.	.
.	8th
8th

We missed the bear may be by hours but had left the unmistakable foot prints .

Bear marks..	Grey headed fish Eagle
Honey Buzaard	Common Iora
Whiskered Tern	9th Leopard to see
9th	9th
Yellow wattled lapwing

The 2nd night was spent at Ondaatje where the surrounding area was fantastic but the place was realy rundown with no maintenenace done which was sad to see and also annoying as we paid good money and also the income in Yala has risen dramatically.Though we made another trip inside the following morning also we could not see anyone though it was hot and sunny day but we were quite content , happy and thrilled as our mission was fully accomplished except the fact that there were very few elephants around.

Jungle fowl

This is my second trip report (I never thought I’d finish even one). We had our plans to go on a trip by our study group at the university which never came true until this December.

The trip wasn’t planned extensively but was well executed at the end. The trains were booked from the Fort railway station just that morning. Third class sleeper-rest was our choice (quite economical) and due to the fact that it was a Monday evening of a non-vacation time we were able to book the train on the same day. We were able to get contact details of a cab to do the day traveling in Nuwara-Eliya. Pello Resort was booked by one of our group mates.

We got to Fort by bus around 7.00 p.m. by bus with all our packs ready. Train was due to leave Colombo at 8.00 p.m. We got on to our relevant seats and got ready for the journey. Train left on time to my surprise. We had good time in the train singing, reciting jokes etc. Tried our best not to disturb the fellow passengers who were a minority (13 to 8).

Music in the train

We got some things ready to eat bread, seeni-sambol, salmon and had it around 10.00 p.m. The train was heading slowly but seemlesly to our destination.

Dinner in the train

Then it was time for some jokes from the past, things went out of hand sometimes. Then people wanted some nap. Some never slept though. When we were up again around 2-3 in the morning it was Hatton and we knew it was only few stations from there. Then people started seeing a UFO outside the train (I never believed). It was 4.30 a.m. When we reached Nanu-oya (We were planning to get there 1 hour early). I was chilling to the maximum around that time. Our transport had arrived 1 hour early to the station and he was waiting eagerly

Nanu-Oya station

We got to Pello Resort by 5.00 a.m. and we washed ourselves and got ready for the day-off. It was still chilling and was a wonderful experience.

Pello Resort near Gregory Lake, Nuwara-Eliya

From the balcony of Pello Resort

Breakfast due at 7.30 a.m. and we had a walk in the Gregory lake for site-seeing.

Pony by the lake	Our Pro
This is what he was aiming at	Sun rising on to the Gregory Lake
Birdy by the roadside	He too was busy
Good project	Not very far from the lake
Bell was ringing (In the tummy)

Tea was ready. A hot tea would be second only to water. Then we spent some time inside the resort singing until breakfast. Breakfast was ready by 8.00 p.m. We were surprised by the arrangement. Well above what we expected and the food was awesome too (Special thanks to the cook).

Indian cuisine

It was time (actually way out of schedule) to start to Piduruthalagala mount top. The area is controlled by the army and arrangements have to be made beforehand to get to the mount top. The journey was through the Galwaysland National Park. It’s a bird park but we never so any birds.

MaXXXX Jeep	Galwaysland National Park
Galwaysland National Park

Then it was just five kms to Piduruthalagala, of course a 15 minute drive thanks to the good roads. Maha-rath-mal was a frequent flower we saw by the road. It was so misty and cold on the way. We comfortably passed through the army posts due to the pre arrangement. It was chilling on the mount top (stayed alive due to the jersey). Yes! We reached the top of the highest peak of Sri Lanka (I felt like Sir Edmund Hillary – not seriously), but it was a land mark I wished I visited for a long time. Special thanks to the soldiers who showed us the way.

Road to Piduruthalagala	Road to Piduruthalagala
Stone marking of the mount top	Our group
Nuwara-Eliya from the mount top – It was misty and we never saw anything	Nuwara-Eliya from the mount top - It was misty and we never so anything

We were not allowed to take much pictures due to the security reasons and we paid due respect to that decision. There were many antennas and the Rupavahini Co-operation antenna was one of them.

Our next destination was the Lover leap Falls which was on our way back to Thalawakele. What a beautiful waterfall. It looked like man made at first sight. It was a 300-400m walk in a high steep road to get to the base of the waterfall.

On the way to the Lovers Leap Falls – Flowers by the road	On the way to the Lovers Leap Falls
On the way to the Lovers Leap Falls – Flowers by the road

A Swedish family was enjoying the beauty of the waterfall. We were mesmerized. This is a good time to go on a waterfall hunt.

Lovers Leap Falls	Lovers leap falls
From the base of the waterfall Nuwara-Eliya town was clearly visible

The time was 11.30 a.m. when we go to the waterfall. Spent some time there and came back quickly as time was passing by. Then it was a long 1-1 ½ hour journey to Thalawakele. The tea estates by the side were so beautiful.

Tea

Tea

Our next destination was the Devon’s falls. It was almost 1.00 p.m. by then and was clearly short of time but we never worried because there was no strict schedule (it was anyway a getaway)

Devon Falls

Time spent by the Devon’s Falls

Then we went to the world’s largest tea museum (source- our friendly driver) The Mlesna tea castle. There was a huge sculpture of James Taylor, some historic pictures of tea in Sri Lanka and lots of kinds of tea. There was a Restaurant run by the same company but we resisted our temptation due to the high price tag

Tea Castle	Tea Castle
James Taylor

Time was 2.00 p.m. and everybody was hungry by that time but we couldn’t find a good shop to have lunch. Most shops did not have finished serving by that time.Our next destination was the

It was so beautiful and the rain did not stop us from going close to the falls. The purple flower tree close the falls drew our attention.

St. Clair’s Falls

St. Clair’s Falls

Then it was clearly the time for lunch and In-between snacks were un-compensatory. We found a descent place Just after Thlawakele and they offered fried rice for a reasonable price. Food was good but the service was pretty bad. We had no other option but to stick to that place because Nuwara-Eliya was 1 hour drive away. Had to stay for half an hour for the food.

It was almost 4.00. p.m. when we finished our lunch and we knew that it was the end of our journey. All other plans had to be cancelled and we directly came to the Nuwara-Eliya town. It was 5.30 p.m. Did some shopping in Nuwara-Eliya town (mainly fresh fruits to take back home) by then and we got to a pastry shop to grab some stuff to eat on the way as well as to have a hot cup of tea.

When we went to the bus stop the last bus starting from Nuwara-Eliya to Colombo was been parked in the stands. We quickly got on to it and reserved our seats. Bus started to Colombo around 6.30 p.m. It was a new CTB bus and the seats were like made out of rocks. It was a very uncomfortable journey back in the first 100 km where there were huge turns. Oh yes bus stopped for tea and some of us had hot coffee.

We got to Pettah by 12.00 p.m. Then it was three-wheelers that helped us get back to our destination.

This is one of the best quick getaways I’ve experienced. Nuwara-Eliya is a town that is always to be enjoyed.

Thank you for the photos by Madura and Jalitha. These are some other beautiful pics taken in our journey

Beauty	Beauty
Beauty

This was one of the best hikes we experienced so far and on the other hand a good example on how the travelers will have to survive the consequences caused by unavoidable delays.

I have done the same hike in 2002 with my school friends and this is after 6 years of that.

We were planning to start our trip at 12.00Noon from Colombo. Due to some unavoidable situations it was delayed for 2 hours and finally we left Colombo by 2.00PM. We took the low-level road and unfortunately there was heavy traffic at Orugodawaththa since construction of the flyover was taking place and we had to wait almost 1 hour there. After so many delays we were able to come to Rathnapura by 6.30 PM and still had a lot of things to be bought from Cargills. By the time we started the journey again we knew that we won’t have time to cook our dinner and decided to buy dinner from Balangoda town.

We turned left from A4, Colombo – Badulla road to Hirikatuoya camp site somewhere around 162km post (1.5km – 2km after the Belihuloya Rest house) and from there we had another 5.7 km to our 1st day destination. But the time was 10.30PM.
After several obstacles we were able to reach our day 1 destination by 11.00 PM. By that time the care taker has gone home assuming that we would not arrive on that night.

.	From A4 road to camp site 5.7 KM

‘Hirikatuoya’ Camp Site

Scenery…

Next day morning our plan was to get the breakfast & lunch prepared with the help of the care taker. Since he was not there we had to go to the main road to buy food for both breakfast & lunch. Group of people went back to main road (A4) while others were getting ready for the great hike. Bad luck was at its worst for us during the trip. When we were coming back the wooden bridge between camp site and main road was repairing by estate workers and we had to wait there another 1 hour till they give us a temporary solution to pass it.

The Wooden Bridge, we were given a temporary solution	‘Hirikatuoya’, from misty mountains…
Marvelous creation of nature	Scenery on the way to Non Pareil tea factory

Finally we came back to camp site with necessary food items for the hike. Then all of us got in to the van and went up to the Non Pareil estate Tea factory. From camp site to tea factory was another 9km and view of the surroundings was fantastic.

Beyond this place vehicles are not allowed (with prior approval you can go if you have a 4X4 vehicle) and therefore we started our hike (We told driver to go to ‘Maha Eliya’ bungalow via Ohiya). From the tea factory it is 15km to World’s End. We started our hike at 11.30AM. Fortunately we met an estate worker and he said “මහත්තයා short cut වලින් ගියොත් 7km, මම පාර පෙන්නන්නන්.” But we didn’t believe him because reducing 8kms was not seemed to be possible.

Non Pareil tea factory, where we started our hike. From here 15km to World’s End	.
Breathtaking…	Little Break

After several hours we were able to reach Bekar’s bend and view from there is marvelous. In a clear day you can see up to the Southern coastal line.

The famous Bekar’s bend - Click Image to Enlarge

Clear view of Samanalawewa

At the ‘Nagrak’ we had our lunch. From ‘Nagrak’ there is another route to Bogawanthalawa side.

Where we had lunch

Breathtaking…

After having little rest at ‘Nagrak’ we started our journey and came to the upper end of the Non Pareil Estate.

“Garden of the God”, View from the garden of manager’s bungalow at upper end of Non Pareil Estate	Bloomed for Sun
Bloomed for Sun

From here the jungle is thick, and another 3km to go.

In thick jungle…

Above all…

After 5 hours of journey we were able to come to our destination. Estate worker was correct. We were able to reduced 8km using shortcuts.

Breathtaking…	Hills and Clouds
Climax….	The way behind. Non Pareil tea factory where we started our hike marked in red circle. Finally travel distance is 6.99km, walking time 2h & 24mins, Waiting time 2h & 44mins
We made it…

Have a safe and enjoyable trip!!!

We started our journey at about 9 pm from Colombo with five members and headed directly to kurunegala to accompany with the other two. We spend the night at kurunegala and headed towards puttalm early morning, from this point onwards our crew was 7 in Hilux Vigo cab and a motor car. Road condition is excellent we only spend 45 minutes to travel 87 Kms. At puttalam we had our breakfast and drive towards Willpattu on A12 Puttalam Anuradhapura road.

We reached Wilpattu park entrance at about 9.30am and we had a grand welcome from the members of the Wildlife office since one of our crew members is senior State counselor who has helped DWC (Department of Wildlife Concervation) people quite lot punishing hunters and poachers at the Nochchiyagama courts.

Just before we entered into the park

Then we met Mr. Munasinghe who was willing to join with us as our tracker but actually he is a assistant Ranger, with help of him we contacted a safari jeep. It was a 4DR5 jeep. At last we entered the park at about 10 am and headed directly to Kokmote bungalow.

On the way to Kokmote

On the way to Kokmote

We reached Kokmote at about 12 noon and had an unfortunate incident minutes after we arrived. One of our crew member had cut his finger severely while re trying to cut a king coconut. We had no option other than taking him to Nochchiyagama hospital since we were at deep inside the thick jungle 48 Km away from the park entrance. So Jayathilake Uncle who is our jeep owner, left behind his 4DR5 and get into our hilux cab and flew towards Nochiyaagama again.

They came back at about 4.30 after getting treatment to the wound. Our friend had 8 stitches to his finger and back on his feet again.

At Kokmote Bungalow

Rushing towards Nochchiyaagama and Coming back…..

Everything went fine after that and we had a short safari session on that evening. We visited several villus, but didn’t had enough luck to see a leopard.

Next day morning we packed our goods again and moved towards kudiramalei and came to panikka vila Wildlife Bungalow where we stayed that night. If any one willing to planning a trip to wilpattu, better to reserve Talawila, Manawila or Panikka Wila bungalows. Those are best places to see wildlife. Kokmote is little bit luxurious bungalow but it’s quite isolated and cannot see much animals nearby. All the wildlife bungalows were solar powered (No hot water, no refrigerator but having light inside a thick jungle is vital) and carefully maintained, all of them had new linen and new mattresses.

Panikka Wila Wildlife Bungalow

We were able to see a pair of Sloth bears near the Maradanmaduwa tank bund, but unfortunately we couldn’t take any photograph because our DSLR ran out of battery life. Any way we met quite lot of wildlife in our stay but not lucky enough to meet any of the legendary Wilpattu leopards.

We met this eagle flying over the Kali villuwa	Croc at Kokari Villuwa
Near Maha Pathessa wila	.
.	තුන්පත් රෑන…. Off the Maradanmaduwa tank bund.

A long time back, while talking to some one at the Horton Plains office to get directions to Kirigalpoththa, we learnt that there is a bridle trail to Bogawantalawa which branches off from Kirigalpoththa trail (Kirigalpoththa trail wasn’t clearly marked then as it is now; and GPS for hiking was not even heard of!).  Since then it was in my list of “to do trails” but I never had enough information to plan the walk.

Last year Ashan walked from NorthCove to Horton Plains via Nagrak (Non Pareil) and the discussions in the forum that followed lead to members contributing solid evidence proving the existent of this trail and its history. This motivated us to spend a bit of time to take a closer look at the maps of the area where I found this trail, along with the trail Ashan did, clearly marked on the meter map!

The trail traced from the meter map (Click Image to Enlarge)

Now with the trail known, it again took almost a year for the actual walk to happen. Priyanjan and I had been discussing this trip on and off for couple of months and the key issue we had was sorting out permission when entering the Horton Plains National Park along this route as there was no ticket office for us to by tickets on this route.

Again lakdasun network solved the problem . Theshantha was able to speak to the authorities at the wildlife department and sort out the permission issue .

NorthCove cabana was the obvious accommodation option since the trail head, as per the map, was very close to this place.

With everything sorted out I made a reservation at NorthCove Cabanas for two nights.

We left Colombo in the morning and reached NorthCove early afternoon. Our Parents and kids  also joined us on the trip. The Cabanas are located bordering the forest and the whole set up there was very nice and clean. Sunset we witnessed from Cabanas was particularly memorable.

Short break to admire the beauty of tiny flowers - On the way to Hatton - On the A7 passed Diyagala

Lunch Stop passed Hatton - Raod side between Dikoya and Norwood

Welcome to NorthCove Cabanas

Memorable Sunset as seen from NorthCove Cabanas

After dinner I had a chat with “Shankar”, the friendly care taker of the Cabanas about the trail we plan to take in the next morning. We wanted to find out whether he can help us with finding a local guide to accompany us. Even though we had the coordinates of the trail, we wanted to have local presence with us in case if we come across the illegal gem miners. We were aware that there is extensive illegal mining taking place in this area above NorthCove. Ashan’s report too confirmed that.

Shankar’s first reaction was proposing us to take the trail via Nagrak to World’s end. When we showed him the map and insisted that we wanted to do the Bridle trail to Farr-Inn, he told us that this trail is little used and little known to the local plantation workers. Then we told him that we are simply looking for local presences, he agreed to arrange a person to walk with us.

Next day early morning we greeted Theshantha and his brother in law Dhanushka who rode over night from Colombo to join the hike. After a somewhat heavy breakfast, we left the Cabanas and started the walk. We arranged the hired van we came in to pick us up from Horton Plains office in the same day evening.

Leaving the Cabanas we walked up to the border of the estate, which was just few hundred meters away from the Cabanas. Following Shankar’s advice we then started to climb down along the estate border. Our guide who was little late to turn up also joined us. After walking for about 15 minutes we realized that we were deviating from the planed trail. When inquired, our guide took us back to where we first reached the boarder of the forest and showed us a little foot path that goes in to the forest which agreed with the track we had in the GPS!

This mess up  delayed us roughly by about an hour. It was 845 a.m. by the time we entered the forest on the correct trail.

Crew at the border of NorthCove just before we entered the forest. On extreme right are our guide and Shankar

In the very beginning it was rapid ascent through jungle terrain for about two Kilometers. After the walk through the jungle we reached an open grassland. We climbed down taking a right turn towards the Gem mining sites near a Turpentine forest. This place is called “Mahaeliya”. Even though Ashan had met miners at this place we could only see the mess they had left behind. The site appeared to have been abandoned for couple of months at least. On the way to, and closer to, Mahaeliya we could witness signs of the old jeep track that said to have existed few decades back from Farr Inn to Bogawatalawa Estate.

MahaEliya

Stream, Turpentine and evidence of mining at MahaEliya

Leaving MahaEliya, we walked further along the valley to reach “Mahadeniya” which was another open area with a lot of abandoned gem pits. Again Ashan had met miners here as well but the site appeared abandoned to us.

Towards Mahadeniya from Mahaeliya along the valley

Approaching Manadeniya

Mahadeniya abandoned gem Pits

Large Stream in the Valley - Mahadeniya

According to the data we had in the GPS we had to walk towards left from Mahadeniya where as the guide was suggesting us to walk biased to right hand side. Soon we realized that he was suggesting us to take the route via Nagrak. we tried to convince him that we want to do the bridle trail, but he was not willing to go that way. Finally we said good bye to our guide and made an attempt to find the trail ourselves. Luckily we could see trace remaining of the old trail going uphill from the valley, confirming to cordinates we had. Time was 11.45 a.m. and we set off along the trail on our own.

Around 12.00 noon we decided to take the lunch break. We had bread and seenisambol with us and had a refreshing 30 mins break.

Climbing up from Mahadeniya (valley below in distance) following the traces of the bridle trail which confirmed to the GPS coordinates we had

On the bridle trail passed Mahadeniya

Lunch Break - near some boulders just few hundred meters from Mahadeniya

After lunch got back on the trail. We were happy to find a clear trail on the ground confirming to the coordinates we were following on the GPS. We had completed roughtly 1/2 of the distance to Kirigalpoththa trail by this time. We had plenty of time in hand, particularly because we have finished all the climbing already. Elevation profile of the trail ahead was rather flat. We had nothing to worry as we could maintain good walking phase.

Soon this bright outlook started to turn gray. The trail started to gradually dissappear in valleys where there was evidence of extensive gem mining and the undergrowth in forest patches became increasingly thick. More and more we had to rely on the GPS to show the path to take. Occasionally we would merge with footpaths used by miners (We came across a skeleton of a hut made by miners as well). We were strictly following the coordinates of the original bridle trail which made us deviate from the foot paths and walk through the forest regularly to avoid getting disorinted by the foot paths of miners.

After an almost three hours of tough walking, we reached another large mining site on the trail. Unlike the sites we came across before, this appeared to be a functioning one (We did not meet any one, we saw equipment scattered around so it was very likely that who ever who was there was hiding close by). It was an unfortunate site to see how miners have managed to encroach this fragile eco-system so deep in side one of the most important protected areas and watersheds of the country.

Time was 3 p.m. We had only managed to cover less than 2km from the point where we had lunch. For the first time, we sensed that we may have miscalculated timing. We realized that, when estimating the time that will take us to complete the trail, we did not take in to account the fact that this trail may not have been used for years and therefore we will have to deal with dense undergrowth. We did not have anything bigger than a Swiss army knife to help us clear the vegetation. Our assumptions were purely based on the elevation profiles assuming at least  remenants of a bridle trail to be there for the most part.

From this last gem pits we reached, it was almost impossible to find the continuation of the trail. It appeared that we had reached the last regions accessed by miners and therefore there were no footpaths beyond that. We had to completely rely on the GPS to guide us. The progress was very very slow. The thorny undergrowth slowed us down a lot and sometimes we chose to walk along water ways, where ever possible to do so without deviating too much from the mapped trail, to maintain speed.

After some strenuous walking (or should I say mostly crawling!) we reached an open grass patch sandwiched between forest covered mountains. Traces of the bridle trail was again visible confirming that we were on track. Unfortunately after a brief easy walk along the grass patch the coordinates were pointing us again in to the dense forest in front.

Time was almost 6p.m. We had covered 7km and there was 2.5km to reach the Kirigalpoththa trail (We knew that once on the Kirigalpoththa trail we could walk even in the mid night!). It was absolutely clear that we are not going to make it  without  spending at least 2-4 more hours. Trail conditions we experienced up to this point made it clear that it is no possible to tackle the rest of the trail in the dark anyway. It was time to evaluate emergency exist options!

To avoid having to spend the night in the forest we decided to make an attempt to follow the direct direction towards the Baker’s Falls Trail, which according to the coordinates we had is not too far from where we were, and see whether we can make it to that. Again, we knew that it is possible to walk along the Baker’s falls trail even in the night.  We gave up following the bridle trail and started to walk up along the opposite side of the mountain towards Baker’s falls trail.

After walking for about 15 minutes, we reached some higher grounds on the mountainside where we could see the valley of BelihulOya and the Baker’s Falls trail winding along the mountain side across the valley. Time was around 6.30 p.m. and we had less than 30 minutes of daylight remaining. We made couple of attempts to descend down to the valley of Belihul Oya but it was too dangerous to climb down in low light.

Without taking any unnecessary risk we settled with the last option. Spend the night up there!

Once the decision to stay overnight was made, we had to first look for a water source.  We had run out of water by this time. Eventhough the forest was quite wet, there were no large streams in the steep mountain slope we were in. After a bit of searching Prabath managed to spot the sound of a tiny spring from which we got our water bottles filled. We had little bit of extra rations so food was not an immediate concern.

To spend the night we picked a well covered place on the steep mountain slope, hiding in the undergrowth, which gave us some cover from the freezing breeze. There was barely any flat ground for the seven of us to sit together. We knew that it was going to be a long night.

Next task was to light up a fire to avoid the risk of  catching cold. We knew that we were inside Horton plains National Park and lighting up a fire was against the rule. Yet it was not “Business as usual” and the fire was essential for the survival of the team.

Prabath volunteered and collected a pile of wood from fallen trees. Having collected wood we faced the biggest obstacle. It was impossible to light up moist wood with matches we had. Even the fallen leaves on the ground was wet. In a desperate attempt to start a fire we started burning everything we had from paper to polythene wrappers  with no luck.

The thick rubber sole of one of my boots had came off earlier in the day and we carried it with us thanks to Theshantha who insisted that I take the sole back home and get the boot repaired. We immediately decided to chop it in to pieces and burn it to start the fire. Lukily the burning rubber generated enough heat to dry some wood and finally we had the fire going.

None of us had any sleep that night. The fire required constant attention and there was not enough space even to stretch our legs. Luckily it did not rain in the night even though we had a rudimentary shelter made using some sticks and our raincoats ready to be used to protect the fire in case if it rained.

Most difficult yet the most critical camp fire I ever started....

None of us slept that night. The fire needed constant attention and there was not enough space even to stretch our legs.

After many long hours it dawned to a gloomy and rainly morning. With the first lights we carefully extiguished all traces of the fire and started evaluating exit routes. In the interest of getting out of the woods as quickly as possible we re-attempted to climb down to Belihuloya and cross over to Bakers falls trail. Even in day light the decend was too steep and dangerous to tackle. Quickly we realised that the only viable option is  to track back to the point where we deviated from the original path and follow the GPS track again.

So we tracked back and started to follow the bridle trail once again. The trail condition was as usual. Thick thorny undergrowth and impossible to walk. Slowly but steadily we moved along the mapped path. Luckily there were couple of long stretches where the traces of the old trail were still there. We also came across remenats of the jeep track at certain palces, most notably the concrete slab over the river described in the forum discuss.

at 1.30 pm we reached Kirigalpoththa trail. Finally we were out of danger. Trail beyond this was well known and frequently traveled so with in an hour we were at the Horton Plain office.

Finally reached Kirigalpoththa Trail - The only and only one image of the second day!

It was one of the most memorable hikes  which really tested our experience in the wild, survival skills and preparation. It was a rare real life expereince which proved how important it is to stay calm when dealing with a difficult situation, the value of having basic but right tools (and the repercussions of not having them!) and more  importantly the value of a like minded team who successfully worked together to come out of the situation we got in to with a completely happy ending.

After reaching Horton Plains office we came back to NorthCove cabanas to meet the angry planters of the estate management who had deployed multiple rescue teams to search for us (we later found out that the rescue teams had very little clue of what they were doing and none of them had even bothered to check the path we took until some professionals got involved later in the day!). The planters had panicked so much because they themselves had attempted to walk this trail and had ended up in an utter disaster and a near death experience couple of months back. They couldn’t believe that we all (including two ladies) followed the trail from beginning to the end and came out unscratched even after spending a night in the forest. (Later we learnt that they were seriously ill prepared in their hike and had not even had a compass with them so failure was inevitable!)

Because it was very late in the day that we returned to NorthCove, we postponed the return trip back home by a day.