With the preference of majority last year’s company annual office trip was planned to Trincomalee.

With that we remembered that there was a news article in Defence.lk that SL Navy has started Whale & Dolphin watching cruises in Galle and Trincomalee recently. I have been to Trincomalee in 2003 during the peace talks and went to Muttur by ferry (named Seruwila 2). It was about one hour journey across the harbor and there were many things to visit. So we decided to get this arranged.

As the organizing committee we checked the possibility of arranging a cruise tour for Whale & Dolphin watching. When we inquired from SL Navy they said cost is LKR 5000 per person then (now it has been reduced to LKR. 3500/= with the profound request from public). Then we felt that it is not affordable alike

• Per head cost is too high, and hence for a family it would be too expensive
• Not sure about the possibility of seeing Whales & Dolphins (if that happens we won’t be able to survive the criticism from other colleagues  )

But we still didn’t give up. After having several discussions with project manager whale watching project by SLN we were able to obtain appropriate deal which is affordable. It is LKR 175,000 for 150 participants.
Since this is totally a new experience for all of us we had to face several challenges to organize this.

1. Since this tour starts at 7.00am at least we need to leave from hotel by 6.30am. Therefore we had to discuss with the hotel management to arrange an early breakfast buffet (by 5.30) for all of us.
2. Making everyone to get ready (130 members) by 6.30am, because usually our night time sing along session & booze runs till 1.00am, 2.00am.
3. Since we work for a private organization the nature of doing things are different from Forces like SL Navy. So we had to adhere to their system/practice.

Though our main objective is Whale & Dolphin watching we had several other objectives also.

• Visit strategically & historically important Trincomalee harbor which is the 5th largest and finest natural harbor in the world. This is 10 times bigger than the Colombo harbor. It is a marvelous creation of nature because it is overlooked by terrace highlands and any giant ship could be hidden in the harbor if you don’t have an aerial view. (They have actually done this during the war and they showed us where they hid Jetliner during our tour.)

On 23rd morning we got up early with lots of enthusiasm and left from the hotel by 6.45 after having the breakfast. When we were reaching to the Ashroff Jetty everything was ready and A543 Cruise was waiting for us. We started our long awaiting journey by 7.15am.

A-543 was waiting for us (Click Image to Enlarge)

A-543

Map (Though it is mentioned as short cruise it took 5 hours) - Click Image to Enlarge

1st they took us on a ride around the harbor and during this tour we could see several important things like:

• Foul point lighthouse where we didn’t have control till early 2007
• Koneshwaram Kovil
• Naval dockyard
• Prima Jetty, Mitsui Jetty and some of the beautiful islands inside the harbour.

Prima flour milling complex at Prima Jetty	SLNS Sayura berthed at Naval dockyard (Click Image to Enlarge)
SLNS Samudura berthed at naval dockyard (Click Image to Enlarge)	No whales or dolphins yet…

It was just 30 minutes and we were still in the Trincomalee bay. Suddenly the Commander Kosala Wijesooriya, project manager of whale watching project announced that our ship is surrounded by dolphins. Everyone ran out to see them.

100s of dolphins have surrounded us and they were swimming with us. It was very difficult to capture their movements with a single click camera. This is where the advanced technology became more important than a good eye!

Thanks to Roshan who owned a multi click camera we could capture some of their nice movements.

It’s play time! (Click Image to Enlarge)

Click Image to Enlarge

After watching the dolphins, the captain started the journey towards the deep sea where the Blue Whales are generally sighting.

On the way we got surrounded by another crowd of dolphins and they swam with us for a longer time. It was so interesting to see them; sometimes they seem to be playing.

.	Wow… (Click Image to Enlarge)
.

We were lucky enough to see rare scenery – Flying fishes (පියාමස්සෝ in Sinhala) who come out from the sea and flying about 10m – 15m. They do this to protect from their predators as explained in a documentary program called ‘BBC Life’
Even after a few hours of journey we still didn’t see at least a single whale.

We went about 10 naval miles towards the deep sea and captain had a map with GPS locations where he had sighted whales in previous tours.

Alone in the sea…

With the sun rise and having spent several hours in sea we were a bit tired and crew onboard invited us to enjoy snack & refreshment. They had arranged us a very good snack with fresh fruit juice.

Suddenly there was another announcement from captain “there are 3 whales close to us”

We all ran out again. We could see 2 of them at a distance of 50m – 100m. They were there for about 10, 15 minutes. But we couldn’t take a good picture. We could see the Blue Whales “blow” (the large spray) several times at a distance.

But we couldn’t get closer to them. According to the captain some odd days they cannot approach them closely due to some reasons (weather and sea conditions, whale habitats etc.)He was also stressed that passengers should also got to have enough luck to see those giants at close proximity.

Impatient to see Blue Whales…they are close by…	Too late…
The only photograph we could capture – The Blue Whale	View from bridge of the ship
.	Bridge of the ship
.Koneshwaram Kovil from Sea	One of the natural hiding places for ships in Trinco Harbour

After a successful journey of 5 hours we came back to the Ashroff Jetty. It was a great/different experience altogether and everyone was overjoyed.

Green Ocean – which was used to transport injured in the rescue missions during the last phase of the war

Buses were waiting for us just after the cruise

In the evening we had another life time worth experience. It was snorkeling near the Pigeon Island.

Till I complete that report enjoy reading this.

We chose Madu-Mannar as the destination for our year-end office trip after reading a number of trip reports on Lakdasun. We started form the suburbs of Colombo at about 12.30 in the night/morning as we had only two days to explore all interesting places that had been discussed in those reports. The crew was forty and we travelled in a 55-seater Ashok Leyland bus. As we started early, we reached Medawachchiya Rest House by 5.30 am and refreshed ourselves with a cup of tea. (Prior arrangements made to have tea so early!)

Dawn was breaking in as we turned off from A9 towards Madu along A14 and the misty surroundings made us feel as if we were travelling through the hills in up country.

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

Misty fields along A 14 towards Madu

The drive towards Madu was effortless and the road condition was superb. The only disappointment in the trip was we could not make the detour to Thanthirimale (only 8km from the main road). Actually it was not in our agenda and we saw the sign board far too late. But it would have been a wonderful experience to visit the temple at 7 in the morning!

We found an ideal place to have breakfast with the advice of Army personnel at a checkpoint. We turned towards left at Madu Police Road and after 2-3 Km came to a irrigation project called “Periyamurippu”. We had a relaxed breakfast (brought from home) and enjoyed going over a suspension bridge built recently.

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Click Image to Enlarge)	Periyamurippu Irrigation Project
The river below	The Suspension Bridge

After breakfast we proceeded towards Madu and the road was in great shape all the way up to Madu. By 8.30 we were in Madu and we spent nearly three hours enjoying the surroundings.

Madu Shrine at a distance

Inside the Shrine

We left Madu around 11a.m and proceed towards Murunkan. We stooped at the Giant Tank for a short break but could not witness any bird activity as it was almost noon. The “Jana Awanhala” operated by the Army has also closed down its operations.

Our next stop was Thirukketiswaram Kovil, a famous Hindu Kovil, which was only a few kilometers away from the main road. It was the time of the Pooja and we all took part (none being Hundu). At the end of it tasted the “Muruthan bath” – which was delicious- as well.

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

It was almost 1p.m. when we left the Kovil and we had lunch under a shady tree and proceeded towards Mannar.

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

Mannar Causeway and Lagoon

The first attraction in Mannar was the donkeys loafing all over the town.

donkeys loafing all over the town

The huge Biobab tree nearby was the next stop

Since our crowd was large accommodation was arranged in two different places; Golden Guest Inn, Mannar and Four Tees Rest, Thodaweli (7km on Talaimanar Road). Golden Guest is a large house in the heart of the town converted into an inn. It has eight clean rooms with attached bathrooms and three have AC facilities. (Tel. 023 – 2250494) FourTees Rest (discussed many times in this forum) is away from the hustle and bustle of the town and has five large rooms in its old wing and five more double rooms in the new wing which was nearing completion when we visited early De cember. (Tel: 023-3230008)It has a spacious garden full of mango trees and the rooms are clean and well maintained. There are two ruined buildings opposite Four Tees Rest – remnants of the old Thodaweli Railway Station.

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station

One of the new occupants of the station!

After a refreshing cup of tea we headed towards a nearby beach for an evening sea bath. It was a deserted beach with a few fishermen preparing their gear for the evening catch. The water was calm with hardly any waves but the Navy personnel nearby advised us not to go far. We had a dip in the warm waters till sun went down and it was so refreshing after a long day!

The deserted beach

We had a delicious dinner of string hoppers, prawn curry, parripu and sambol at Four Tees and were fortunate to witness the full lunar eclipse in the clear Mannar sky. We ended the long but very fulfilling first day of our trip with that reward.

Day 2

We planned to visit Adams Bridge and had to leave the Inn by 6 in the morning. We had only a cup of tea and Mr. Lawrance at Four Tees was kind enough to prepare sandwiches to be had on the way. We were in Talaimannar by 6.30 and it was a bright sunny morning. The early rays touching the golden beach made a lovely sight.

First sunbeams kissing the beach!	First sunbeams kissing the beach!
Eligibility for Sand Tour	Tours to Adam's Bridge (Click image to Enlarge)

The boats waiting on the golden beach

They had three boats which could accommodate 22 including children. (8+8+6). Since there were 40 in our crew half the crowd had to wait until the first group returned. The first group was given life jackets and instructions by the Navy on what and what not to. The ticket to the sand dunes – they are called Dancing Islands – as they are known to shift their position a bit – costs Rs.600/= per head and that includes a picnic snack and a bottle of water to be had on the way. Each boat was given a lifesaver in addition to the Navy person who operated it. So safety was ensured.

Boats ready to leave the shore

Young travelers eagerly waiting with picnic bags!

The one hour long boat ride was most enjoyable in the morning golden sun. There were many larks and seagulls around and we saw fish jumping on the waves. Our three boats were accompanied by a special life saving boat so there was hardly anything to worry – even if the boat topples there were many to save you!!

Urumalai Beach fading away

Enjoying the boat ride

The lifesaving boat accompanying our three boats

We landed on the second sand dune and spent a wonderful half-an-hour there. It had shallow pools everywhere and we saw some eggs may be laid by the sea-gulls. A different kind of grass and some flowering plants were the only vegetation on the island. It was a unique experience.

Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands	Breathtaking scenery on the Dancing Islands
Patterns of nature	Patterns of nature

A young traveler on a lonely planet!

Mount Everest on the lonely planet

Crossing Nanthikadal???	Young explorers!
Life on the island	Life on the island
Heaven on earth…..	.

As we were about bid good bye to the miracle island our second group arrived. Luck was on our side that day. A bigger boat had come there as a ‘test ride’ and the rest of our crew had been brought in that boat. That saved us nearly three hours. Had not been for the unexpected the big boat, the second group would still be on the shore waiting for our return to get into a boat!

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

The rest of the crew arriving in a larger boat

Thanks to the Navy all forty of us were safely back on the shore by 10 O’clock – before the harsh Talaimannar sun could show its full force.

After that most enjoyable boat trip we headed back to Four Tess, refreshed ourselves and bid good bye to Mr.Lawrance thanking him for making our stay comfortable.

We collected lunch packets from Choice Restaurant in the town. (023-2223261) Since we had given the order in advance the packets were ready for us. Must commend the food at Choice – it was delicious.

We returned on A 14 and turned towards Silavathura from Murunkan and up to Silavathura the road was in good shape. From Silavathura we turned to the right and headed towards Arrippu. It was a gravel road in bad shape running along the beach. We visited Doric House and had our lunch there.

Doric House at Arippu	The ruins
Our bus from Doric House	Doric Tower

After lunch we proceeded towards Vilpattu. We were concerned about the road condition via Vilpattu and made inquiries at a number of check points and at the Silavathura Police station. As we were given the green light we proceeded. After travelling along the gravel road full of pot holes for nearly two hours we reached the Marichchukaddi Check Point. It was past four and the response at the checkpoint reg. road condition was not positive at all. They warned us that it had rained inside the jungle and a number of vehicles got stuck in mud. But it was too late to turn back and our two experienced drivers were ready to take the challenge and we decided to proceed. We were passionate to pass through the jungle. The army at the check point warned us that we had to cross nearly 40 km of thick jungle and that we will be cut off from all communication – no phone signals inside the jungle. We understood the gravity but had no option but to proceed. I feel the Silavathura Police Station should be more aware of the road condition and this advice should be available at that point so that a traveler could go back to Murunkan and proceed via Anuradhapura without exposing himself to greater risks. Turning back at Marichchukaddi is a total waste.

Although Mannar did not receive rain during that weekend Vilpattu jungle had received rain. It was not raining when we proceeded but the muddy road witnessed previous rains. The road condition was getting worse from each step and it was becoming slippery. Although we had two very experienced drivers they had to try very hard to keep the bus on the road. We all were praying that the road condition would improve but our prayers were never answered. All we could see was the muddy road lying ahead looking more like a swamp.

The muddy road ahead….	Its 5 in the evening and we are still crawling through the mud….
Mud….mud….and more mud…More like a swamp than a road	Navigating through the slippery road…..

Although our drivers did their best and navigated through the mud bath we got stuck thrice and each time it took nearly ½ hour to 45 minutes to pull the bus out of mud – it being a giant 55 seater Ashok Leyland. It was getting dark and we were still in the middle of thick jungle without any modes of communication with the outside word. We were beginning to question the decision we took, but it was too late.

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

Stuck in mud….. and trying to pull it out

The sun went down and we had nearly 20 more kilometers to cross. The drivers had taken the challenge well and were doing all they could to avoid getting stuck another time. As the sun went down their task became more and more difficult and we all were praying for safety.
It was pitch dark when the bus got stuck the last time and it was too dangerous to get out as we were in the thick jungle. But a few got off with torches in their hands. It was past 7.30 and all our phones were dead. To our great relief we saw a light ahead and saw some people walking towards us. It was a troop of army personnel doing their routine patrol and they were travelling in a “unicorn”. They were from the Illavankulam Check Point. They were god sent saviors and with great effort they helped us out of the mud. We were told that Illavankulam was about a 45-minute drive. That was a great relief and we proceeded in the dark. The road condition improved thereafter but we had to cross one last barrier – a narrow causeway over Kala Oya – over which water was running about 1 foot high. It was so narrow that we all feared for safety. But our experienced driver was able to navigate through that last barrier successfully and we all cheered with relief when we reached the Check Point.

It was past nine when we reached Puttalam and we stopped at a Appa Kade and had our dinner. It was past midnight when we came to our destination – completing two full days of fun and excitement. It was a miracle that we did not have to spend the night in the middle of the Vilpattu jungle. May be we were blessed as we worshiped Madu as well as the Thirukkethiswaram Kovil on our way!

The wild explorers!

Early morning on Friday we started from Colombo and headed straight to Back of Beyond – Gurugoda. We were greeted by Ajith and Anverdeen (a veteran trekker with excellent knowledge about Yala) along with Priyanjan who were waiting there to join the four day excursion to explore, particularly the block two of Yala national park. Yohan’s Nissan Patrol and Ajith’s Land Rover were quickly loaded with supplies and we left straight away to Palatupana Entrance.

At Back of Beyond - Gurugoda

Formalities at the park office did not take long. Wildlife department guide assigned to us was Premarathne. Premarathne is one of the most expreinced guides in service at the department today and he claimed that he is a descendant of Henry Engelbrecht, the first park warden of Yala. Well, he knew Yala well but largely his attitude and certain behaviors did not make us very comfortable with him.

Leaving park office we drove along the Yala main road to paranaganthota (a.k.a Parana Thotupola) where we crossed Menik River and entered Block 2. Our camp site was “Nuga Sevana”, one of the newer camp sites established on the bank of the river. It was only a couple hundred meters away from Paranaganthota (පරන ගං තොට).

Location of the camp site was good, particularly because of its proximity to the river. The river was so inviting with shallow flowing water and clean sandy bottom so that we couldn’t resist a long bath under the shade of giant Kumbuk trees every day! One of the negatives of the camp site’s location was its proximity to the Paranaganthota which is the designated resting place for day visotrs to Yala Block I. On Saturday and Sunday we got disturbed by their noise occasionally. Also there are couple other camp sites on the either banks of the river in some what close proximity. If a party at any one of the camp sites does not behave well, that tend to disturb the rest of the sites. On one of the nights we could hear people singing at one of the other camp sites (most likely Kosgasmankada). Wonder why the wildlife guide who should have been with them did not stop them.

It took some time for us to setup our tents. We had quite a number of them.

Crossing Over to Block 2 at Parana Gan Thota	At Nuga Sewana Camp Site
Menik River bordering the camp site	So obviously this is what we did for hours EVERY day

After setting up tents we had lunch we brought form BOB-Gurugoda. After lunch we relaxed a bit, and set out for the first drive in block 2. Passing Yala wela (යාල වෙල), we drove up to Katupila Ara (කටුපිල ආර).

Yala Wela with Maliththan Trees scattered

Water level in Katupila ara was too high for a vehicle to cross it safely at the usual crossing point. This is a usual occurance, particulalry in the dry season, when river mouth gets blocked with sad, forcing water to build up upstream.

Katupila Ara - Water Level was high due to closed river mouth

Mangrove Roots, Katupila Ara

We had to drive couple of kms  upstream to find a suitable crossing point with less water and we did a hassle free cross over to the other side.

Having crossed Katupila Ara, we drove back along the opposite bank of it and got back on the main road. Passing vast, dry, open, sandy sections of Pilinnawa Eliya (පිළින්නාව එලිය) we drove along the main road towards Kumbukkan Oya. On our list to see were fresh water wells at Pahala Poththana (also known as the Navaladi wells in Paada Yatra) and Uda Poththana Modara (උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

As soon as we entered Block 2, we immediately noticed two remarkable differences in the animals we saw, compared to block 1. The first was the size of herds of Deer, Buffalow and Boar. Every herd we saw had many dozens of animals which was a great sight to see. The second was their unfamiliarity with vehicles. Every creature we saw would start running like mad as soon as it saw our vehicles!

We came across large groups of Deer, Buffaloes and Boar but all of them were on the run!

A Large group of Wild Boar, again running like crazy for the dear life!

Occasionally there were "Brave Hearts" as well

We drove mostly  along the main road through scrub forest typical in the area. Passing open areas at Uda Poththana (උඩ පොත්තන), we drove further down towards Pahala Poththana (පහළ පොත්තන). To reach fresh water wells, one should deviate from the main road towards right, just before entering open areas at Pahala Poththana.

We first reached the place where there are three fresh water wells together. It immediately brought back memories of Pada Yatra we did couple of months back. While on Paada Yatra we spent couple of hours resting at this very same place. The only difference this time was that the huge Dun trees in the vicinity were full of fruits!

The three Wells

Dun Trees were full of Fruits

Signs of Pada Yatra

Signs of Pada Yatra

We left the three wells and drove few hundred meters further to reach another freshwater well. We were pelasantly surprised to find another hudge Dun tree full of fruits there as well. The Dun we found were much more tastier than what we had before .

Yummmmmmy!

Leaving fresh water wells we started our journey back along the main road. It was late in the afternoon and the light was perfect for photos.

Malabar Horn Bill in Flight	Herd of Spotted deer paused their mad run briefly and posed beautifully against the light
Harsh Dry Environment was certainly not forgiving the weak	Driving on the "Death Valley" - Uda Poththana
Spikes and the Spider Web	Closed River mouths force water to accumulate upstream like this, sustaining life in a death valley even during the height of the dry season

Once we returned to Uda Poththana area, which is supposed to be an abandoned saltern, we turned left from the main road and drove towards the sea to explore the river mouth (Uda Poththana Modara – උඩ පොත්තන මෝදර) and the Estuary. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

We parked close to the beach and explored the area. With pure white sand and calm water of the Estuary bathing in the late afternoon light, it was such a beautiful sight to see.

Sky, Sand, Water and exposed Corals - Uda Poththana Modara

Magical setup at Uda Poththana Modera kept photographers busy!

Lonely "Krishan Putha" at Uda Poththana Modara; most likely brought here by the Tsunami

We tried to locate “earthened wells” some of the previous travellers had described at Uda Poththana but we couldn’t locate any signs of them. Both Anverdeen and Premarathne were of the opinion that those must have been washed away by the Tsunami as they had been located very close to water.

The day was coming to an end. We started our journey back to the camp site. On our way back we saw fresh paw marks of a leopard on the jeep track but were not luky to see it.

Fresh Paw Marks on the Jeep Track

Heading back to Camp Site

Day 2

We left the camp site early morning on Saturday. The Plan was to explore Pilinnawa sand dunes and “Miniha gal Kanda (මිනිහාගල්කන්ද)”.

We crossed Katupila Ara and reached Pilinnawa Eliya driving along the main road. Then we turned right towards the sea and drove until we reached Agara Ara (ආගර ආර). Turning left at Aragara Ara, we continued to drive along the bank of the Ara until we found a point where we could safely cross over to the other side (just like Katupila Ara, water level was high in Agara Ara too; both share the same river mouth). Once we crossed the Ara we tackled some steep climb up to the sand dune and parked right at the base of it. (View Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ))

Parked at the Sand Dune at Pilinnawa

The sea is right there on the other side

It was very early in the morning (just past 6.00 a.m.). Sun had just started to emerged from the sea (Yes, we were in the east coast!). We climbed up the sand dune and reached the undisturbed, beautiful beach on the other side. To reach Miniha Gal Kanda we had to walk 2.1km along the beach. We thoroughly enjoyed this early morninng walk on the beatiful, undisturbed, remote beach. On our right had side it was the Indian Ocean meeting the horizon and on our left was the tall sand dune with perfect patterns created by wind, complimented by dune vegetation.

Sand Dunes complimented by dune vegetation

Rising Sun and the Ocean

The Walk; looking for the "lonely man in the beach"

Patterns on Sand and the colorful rock formations

Closer look at the patterns

……and the man came to our sight!

The rock was certainly resembling a man looking towards the vast ocean in a relaxed posture with his hands on the hips. “Miniha Gal Kanda” is said to be an ancient Coral reef which had been elevated from water a long time back and since then had been eroded by the wind and water to create some unique shapes like this “lonely man”. It is constantly changing, as per Anverdeen, who has seen the lonely man for more than half a century now,the man used to be even more prominent before.

The Lonely Man by the Sea - Miniha Gal Kanda

This is what the man is made of - A coral reef elevated from the sea many million years ago

The area immediately around the man was a fascinating geological formation. Continuous erosion of lose rock have created massive, roughly semi-circular craters with vertical walls. The rock wall was a live demonstration of what lies underneath, a perfect cross section with clearly segregated layers of earth in different colours. Travelers who visited the area before had called these gigantic craters “Amphitheaters” and they had described three of them.

One of the Gigantic Amphitheaters

Vertical Rock wall with layers of earth in different colours

We spent some times exploring the “Amphitheaters”. The rocks were so fragile and would trun in to powder with the ligthest pressure applied. Again Anverdeen recalled that the rock walls had changed drastically over the past few decades due to continuous erosion.

Travel literature describes three Amphitheaters along the coast. Even though we thought we saw all three,  Priyanjan’s studies of Google earth images afterwards suggests that we may have seen only the first one, or the first and the second. Certainly future visits are on plans to Verify

From the base of the Amphitheater

More like Martian Land than Earth

We also found evidence supporting the elevated coral reef theory. Hard shells of sea creatures could be seen trapped in lose rock. They appeared to be in some stage of fossilization.

Lose rocks that formed Amphitheaters

Evidence of early day sea life - Are these shells in some stage of Fossilization?

The sun was rising and the whole area was starting to heat up. Since we had a 2km walk back along the beach, we started our walk back by 8.15 a.m.

Light was getting Harsh

But photo opportunities were not all exhausted

A long the beach we walked back to where we started. Rather than walking back to the vehicles, we decided to continue the walk along the beach to reach the place where the Estuary opens up to the sea. We were also looking for an archaeological site where some stone pillars are said to be there. Again Anverdeen and Premarathna were able to show us the stone pillars scattered in the scrubs.

Pilinnawa Modara (Pellussa Modara) - Where water form Menik Ganga, Katupila Ara and Agara ara meets the sea

Two of the Stone Pillars. We saw couple more standing in the scrub forest close to the Modara

Estuary at Pilinnawa

Estuary at Pilinnawa - from another view point

We then returned to our vehicles. Getting them out of the dunes was not that straight forward!

Sand Dune 4X4 Action

Getting the Land Rover out of it was not that Straightforward

We drove back along the same track we came, crossed Agara Ara and approached the Estuary from the side of it. We found a large tree under which we settled down for breakfast.

Egg + Some sort of sauce + cheese sandwhich - Near Pillinnawa moya

After breakfast we returned to the main road and again continued along it towards Kumbukkan Oya. The plan this time was to explore “Mahirawa – මහිරාව” where a camp site from the hunting days with a waterhole that persists through the dry season were supposed to exist.

Passing Uda Poththana and Pahala Pothathana, we drove up to Ethiliwela Eliya (ඇතිලිවෙල එලිය).

At Pahala Poththana we drove passing the lonely Dan tree, known as “Boer’s Tree” which is said to be where Henry Engelbrecht (The first Park warden of Yala National park during the colonial era) used to camp. (View  Google Earth Trail Map (KMZ) )

"Boer's Tree" at Pahala Poththana where Henry Engelbrecht said to have camped.

Ethiliwela Eliya is another open, dry stretch of land around an Estuary (The water ways that feed this estuary are Athurumithuru Ara – අතුරුමිතුරු ආර and Nabadagas Ara – නාබඩගස් ආර).  Again we turned right towards the sea and drove around Ethiliwela Kalapuwa (Lagoon) in an attempt to reach Mahirawa beach. Again, water bodies were pretty full and we could not approach the sea. We parked beneath a large Dun (දං) tree, again full of fruits, and decided to have lunch there.

The five Dead Bodies! (and the authorities discussing how to dispose them)- After Lunch at Mahirawa

We did not particularly attempt to locate the fresh water hole or the camp site. Water levels was restrictive and we had no specific clues to look for on the ground. Anverdeen and Premarathne were also not too sure about the exact location of the campsite/water hole.

After some rest at Mahirawa, we headed towards “Walas Kema – වලස් කෙම”, another camping location said to have been frequented by the hunters in early 1900 when Yala was a game reserve.

At Walaskema we found a large rock scattered with several water holes (Kemas), most of them had water even in this height of the dry season. View from  top of Walaskema was nice too. Also there were signs of steps cut in the rock surface leading to one of the water holes. May be work of hunters or can this also be an archelogocal site?

Walaskema - Three of the water holes in the rock bed	View from the top - Walaskema
.	Clean Bones of a beast, according to Anverdeen and Premarathne it is not uncommon for animals to fall in to these waterholes or get ambushed by a waiting leopard in their desperate search for water in dry season

On our return journey to the camp site we explored the large earth mound right by the jeep track, close to Katupila Ara, known as “Weheragodella – වෙහෙරගොඩැල්ල”. The inch maps shows a Dagaba in ruins here but we couldn’t locate any signs of it. The soil and the rokcs appeared to be different in color and heavier than ususal. The surrounding and the rocks reminded us of a large meteorite impact site.

Weheragodella as seen from the main road	Climbing up
View from the top	Unusually heavy, colored Rocks - Can this be a Meteorite impact site

Leaving Weheragodella we came back to the camp site along the usual track. A gentle giant proved that our decision not to cross Katupila Ara at the usual crossing point was a very rational one!

Crossing the road between the two Jeeps

Getting in to Katupila Ara

Crossing over to the other side - as you can see there was enough water to submerge this giant so a vehicle crossing the Ara at this point is impossible

Day 3

We had explored most of the key places in the block 2 during past two days. Several other places we wanted to see were lying in areas not open to visitors (inside the strict nature reserve) and we did not want to break any rules. Also the drives in block 2 did not give us opportunities to observe wildlife. Therefore we decided to dedicate the third day to explore block 1.

An elephant feasting early morning at Buthawa lake

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Driving by the Elephant Rock also know as Akasa Chaithya - You can see ruins of two Dagabos at the top of this rock

An egret

A common Kingfisher

Early Morning at Parana Gan Thota

As we return to the camp site after the morning drive, we were called up on to help a jeep stuck in Katupila Ara.  Some 4X4 craze had foolishly attempted to cross the Ara from the wrong point. They had no guide with them and had not got proper permission to enter block 2 even! Apparently he drove the jeep in to the water with women and kids on board just of the fun of it and and ended up like this!

Stupid and Irresponsible are the most suitable words to describe the situation

We Pulled it out. Since the vehicle could not be started, they had to tow it out of the park with the help of the other vehicle which accompanied them

After breakfast Anverdeen shared some of his experience with us. It was very interesting to listen to him. We were particularly interested to find about  ”Ali manthara – අලි මංතර” from Anverdeen. Our conclusion on  අලි මංතර was that it is the aggressive and dominant behavior demonstrated by the person who chants the Mantra that deter the elephant, not the Mantra it self!

How about some sweets after breakfast - we had a load of sweets

Anverdeen Relating a Story

Around 3.00 p.m. we again headed towards Block 1 in anticipation of seeing more wildlife. It certainly was a good start with a peacock in full display.

Beautiful Display

The next sighting was this bear. It was feasting on Maliththan seeds and we watched it in close range for a quite long time

Bear feasting on "Maliththan" seeds

Closer look

Leaving the bear we drove towards Darshana wewa (Modaraagala Digana Wewa). On our way, we came across a family of yellow wattled lapwings. Two parent birds and their three little chicks. As soon as the parent’s saw us approaching, they forced the little ones under their wings. One of the chicks however kept coming out despite the parent bird’s desperate attempts to keep it under the cover.

Mother's protection - One chick is already hidden (you can only see its legs) and another one is hurrying in!

One brave chick kept coming out despite its mothers desperate attempt to keep it under the cover

By the time we reached Darshana Wewa it was late in the after noon. We drove along the earth bund enjoying the tranquility.The place looked very calm and quite with only some birds and couple of crocs in the vicinity.

Crocodiles at Darshana Wewa

1...2...3....

The silence did not last for long. A herd of elephants (with young) got in to water form the opposite bank of the lake. They walked right in to the middle of the lake and started drinking and bathing. It was such a lovely sight to see . The herd would keep the little ones right in the middle of the pack and would chase away anything that came close to the herd, including birds and even Crocs, quite aggressively.

The herd walking in to water with Young in the Middle

Enjoying the cool dip - All what the Croc could do was to watch

Drinking.....

After some time, the herd decided to get out of water. Again, chasing anything and everything that came in their way, the whole group came out of the lake.

Walking out of water

" Being BIG means a lot" - this young calf learnt it first hand (it was just a mock charge and there were no casualties!)

The herd then started spreading sand/dust all over them and we decided to leave them alone.

With the last rays of  sun hiding behind the tree line, we returned to the camp site with exciting memories of the day.

Sun Setting behind the tree line over a lake

Day 4

It was the final day!

We decided to do a one last round in Block 1. The very first destination of the morning was “Padikema – පඩි කෙම” rock to see whether the famous “Rukvila” cubs are around. Sure enough, they were there.

Wake up brother

Jumping out of the bed!

The play continued at the base of the rock

Siblings In Actions!

.	Walking against the Light

It was such an amazing sight to see!

The place started to become congested with more and more jeeps gathering there to see the cubs. Therefore we decided to leave them and explore more of the park.

Seen on the opposite side of "Padikema" rock	Flowers seen close to Patanangala beach
Buthawa Lake	More early morning activity

The last treat of the trip was again a herd of elephants. This time, they were busy playing on a newly built bund of a tank (breaking a good part of it in the process!)

Pushing and Pulling	A closeup
Colorful Dust Bath	.
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Well it was time to say goodbye to all the wonderful things at Yala. We left the paradise behind and faced the relaity of having to go to the office and start work on the following day

We left Colombo at about 11.30am on 10th October 2011 and reached Kantale at about 4.30 pm.Up to Habarana it was normal traffic but beyond few vehicles and broad wide carpet road. We were cruising at 110KMPH, but slowed down close to Kantale as traffic cops were in the road with speed check gun.

Habarana Kantale road

Kantale Seruwila road

Overland, the best way to reach Seruwila Mangala Viharaya is to drive from Kantale along the main Kantale Seruwila road pass Seru Nuwara and turn off at Arippu Junction road, a distance of around 48 km. This part is a gravel road in good condition unless it rains and gets muddy.

We reached Seruwila at about 6.30pm and it was heavy rain and could not get out of vehicle till 7.00pm, and booked a room at the pilgrims rest.

There were only few people even next day being a poya day

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We left Seruwila to LANKA PATUNA at about 12.30 pm via Toppur. Twenty Five KM on that road to Lanka patuna.The road was Muddy and a lots of pot holes and terrible road surface. A vehicle with high clearance can traverse.

The road was Muddy and a lots of pot holes and terrible road surface

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I will not attach many pictures of the Viharas as most trip reports have the same photos

The Black Beach on the approach road to Lanka patuna. We collected the Black sand and it’s heavy.

The Black Beach on the approach road to Lanka patuna

Our stop was Lanka Patuna is significant as an ancient port known as “Lanka pattana” where the prince Dhantha & Princess Hemamala who came from India ‘Kalingu Desaya’ and landed with the sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha.

The damaged Bridge

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We left Lanka Patuna at about 4.30 pm to Trincomallee as threre were signs of heave rainWe traveled along to Muttur and a gravel road of about 15 KM to Kinniya in Trincomalee. We reached Trincomallee town at about 6.30pm on 11th evening. And booked into Sarvodaya Hostal.

Next day 12th early morning we left to Girihadu Seya.The Pulmodai road was excellent and you have to turn at Triyaya Junction

The Pulmodai road was excellent

Irakkandi New Bridge

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Girihandu Seya Vihara is the oldest Buddha stupa in Sri Lanka. At over 2600 years old perhaps the oldest Buddhist Vihara in the world. Indeed for decades this ancient vihara was inaccessible to Buddhist pilgrims, lying as it was in LTTE rebel controlled areas. The base for a time was a LTTE training camp. After clearance of the rebels, pilgrims again can visit this ancient monument freely.

Girihandu Seya Small stupa	Old Stone Bridge
.	The Stone Inscription and the pond
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Arisimalai Beach

We turned to the right at Pulmodai road and traveled on a gravel road towards the beach. There is a Navy camp and after signing book has to walk on a gravel road to the beach 300 meters.

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We next went to Pitchamal Viharaya at Kutchuweli.

Near 35th KM post, at Kuchchiveli, there is a Navy Camp. Behind the camp, neat the beach on a hillock, there is some ruins of a Sthupa known as Pichchamal Viharaya (Kuchchaveli Viharaya). Hillock is known as Karandi Malai (Walas Kanda). You have to get permission from the camp to visit the place.

Pichchamal Viharaya (Kuchchaveli Viharaya) - Click Image to Enlarge

Hillock is known as Karandi Malai (Walas Kanda)

There is a stupa at the mountain. Some say Tapassu Balluka Merchants landed at this spot
Some others say that පිච්ච මල් (jasmine flowers) was taken from here to be offered to Ruvanweliseya

Stupa at the mountain

Back to Pulmodai Road we turned off to a muddy track and traveled towards Velgam vehera. We travelled on the Periyakulam Tank bund.

Periyakulam Tank

Periyakulam Tank

Velgam Viharaya

Velgam Vehera is located around 15 km away from Trincomalee by the Trincomalee – Anuradapura Road.
According to the historical facts, the Velgam Rajamaha Viharaya was constructed by king Devanampiyathissa. Later on some additions and renovations were done by first Bathiya, Second Agkbo, first Vijayabahu and first Parakramabahu.

The most important point is this temple was that this was worshiped by both Sinhala and Tamil Buddhist. That is one of the reason that Vilgam Vehera was not destroyed by south Indian Chola invasions in 10th century.

Velgam Vehera

Velgam Vehera

Koneswaram Temple	Koneswaram Temple
Kanniya Seven Hot wells	Kanniya Seven Hot wells

On our return Journey on the 13th Morning , Having visited Koneawarm Kovil and hot wells traveling back from Trinco to Colombo we again turned off at Kantale Junction and visited MAVILARU ANICUT as it was dark on first day of visit trip to Seruwila. The road from the turn off from Kantale Serunuwara road to the anicut was a muddy track.3 KM from the turn off point. No room if two vehicles meet on the Mavil Aru tank bund in driving towards the famous anicut. Road to anicut is closed after 5.00pm

MAVILARU ANICUT

MAVILARU ANICUT - Click Image to Enlarge

Sarvodaya Center where we stayed in Trinco

These days Trincomalee is experiencing evening showers and better avoid and get latest weather condition and travel. A high road clearance vehicle is a must if you intend to travel to all places

We started our journey at about 4.15 A.M on 27 th August from Colombo. Our crew consists of 07. (5 adults of between 45-55 and 2 children between 18-23.)

Our first stop was at Kurunegala for our breakfast. After the breakfast we drove through Dambulla,Nelumkulama and turned left to Anuradhapura air force camp road through Wilachchiya road to Nellikulama.

Nellikulama was a modern temple but its concept was little different from our traditional temple.

statues of 500 Arahat Buddhist monks	statues of 500 Arahat Buddhist monks
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After visiting Nellikulama temple we proceeded towards Wilachchiya and turned right to the Thanthirimale temple. The road was very good condition even a small car you can travel without any problem. In the Thanthirimale we had our lunch and then started to climb the rock temple.

Thanthirimale temple	Thanthirimale temple
Thanthirimale temple	Thanthirimale temple

This was an excellent location for Buddhist temple. Really very calm place. But I think the evening is preferred to visit this place because of the hot sun. In early days this area was called as Thivanka Bamunugama.The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface. Heavy wind in these days.

The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface

The temple was on the top of the vast rock surface

Road from Thanthirimale to Gajasinghapura camp junction at Madawachchi - Mannar road

We started our journey again at about 4.00 p.m from Thanthirimale to Mannar.
The road from Thanthirimale to gajasinghapura camp at Madawachchi- Mannar (A 14) road was a gravel road but not bad, easy to travel even a small car because no large pot holes. A14 road was a carpet road up to Madhu junction but after the Madhu junction also road was good condition.

A 14 road – Madawachchiya- Mannar road

Donkeys at Mannar road

Through A14 road we proceed up to Murunkan and turned left and go to Silawathura and from Silawathura again turned right to Arippu. From Silawathura to Arippu road was gravel road with lot of pot holes but can manageable for a car with slow speed.

In the Arippu you can visit old Doric house remains. We came to the Arippu at about 6.00 p.m. Very heavy winds at the beach area.

Doric house at Arippu	.
Inside of the Doric house - steps to the top floor	View from inside of the Doric house
.	Arippu beach
Doric tower	.

After a nice relax evening at the Arippu beach, we started our journey again to find our night station, Four Tees rest at Mannar. Actually to go to FourTeess you have to travel another 7 miles from Mannar to Thalaimannar road .Then you find small junction called Thottaweli junction and turned left to that junction and proceeded another 700 meters, and just next to the Thottaweli railway station you can find Four Teess rest inn.

Four Tees rest at Mannar	Four Tees rest at Mannar
Thottaweli railway station	A passenger waiting for the train!

We arrived to Four Teess at about 7.30 p.m , The owner of the Rest Mr. Lawrence was a good kind hearted person. He can speak English well but not Sinhala. But some of the helping people can speak Sinhala. After a hot cup of tea and having a good bath we have just relaxed till our dinner was ready. The dinner (rice and curry with prawn curry) was not much tasty but good enough to eat. The place was good clean and enough space, large rooms and not too much crowded. The rest has 4 large rooms with clean attached bathrooms. The large room has an A/C with 4 beds.

After a good sleep (no mosquitoes) next morning we get ready before 7.00 a.m, as planned for our boat trip to Adams bridge sand islands. Mr. Lawrence, as our request arranged idly for our breakfast. That was really tasty. After the breakfast we hurried to Thalaimannar pier. That was about 18 km trip and anyway we arrived to the pier at 7.45 a.m.
That was the time we got the heartbreaking news regarding cancellation of boat trips due to heavy winds. Then no choice and we have just relaxing few hours at pier and returned to the rest and get ready for the return journey.

Dung beetles	House sparrow
Great egret	Thalaimannar lighthouse

Thalaimannar pier

The boats used to visit Adams Bridge	Crabs removing Sand balls from their holes of the beach
Biobab tree –Circumference –19.51 m, Height -7.5 m	Biobab flowers
.	Mannar Dutch fort

Mannar old railway bridge blasted by L.T.T.E	.
.	Another Biobab tree
.	Giant tank at Mannar
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In return journey we have stop Jana Awanhala at Giant tank for our lunch operated by Sri-Lanka Army . The place was good and tasty foods and reasonable price also. After the lunch we have visited Madhu church and return to Colombo .

Maranda Madhu Church	No matter you are black or small ! We are friends…….
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We intended to cover Trinco and surrounding places of interest as much as possible and the trip was planned to the minute detail. However unexpected bad weather, poor road conditions and Grease Yaka prevented us from touching all places, meaning another trip when time permits!!!!

We started from Malabe at 11.00 pm on 12.08.2011 and reached Kantale by 4.00 am on 13.08.2011. As the road leading to Seruwila was deserted and in a very bad condition with a chance to meet elephants, we preferred to stay at Kantale till day break. However a lorry came from out of blue and they wanted to go to Mutur via Seruwila. We followed them. However before reaching the jungle area they panicked and stopped. Army personnel at a camp encouraged us to go ahead. When we called the Nayaka Hamuduruwo of Seruwila two days before, he too told us that elephants are harmless and avoid vehicle lights. So we continued our journey on a worst possible road and reached the temple by 6.00 am.

Two days before, when we called Nayaka Hamuduruwo, we asked what the temple requires most and we were informed that few FCL bulbs would be appropriate. I circulated a list in my office and we were able to purchase high quality 25 bulbs!!!!.
13th was Poya Day. Nayaka Hamuduruwo was so please about our contribution and gave us a special “Punyanumodanawa”

Chief Monk giving us Punyanumodanawa	Chaithiya at dawn. Lalata Dhathu is imbedded in this Sthupa
More Photos of Seruwila	More Photos of Seruwila
More Photos of Seruwila

From Seruwila we proceed towards Lankapatuna but failed to complete journey due to extremely bad road conditions.

So we turned back and proceed to Mutur.

We planned to go around Koddiyar Bay through A15 road but all people we asked discouraged us. Finally we selected a new road which is still under construction that connects to A15 near Kinniya Bridge.

Kinniya Bridge – Longest in the country	Kinniya Bridge
Kinniya Bridge

Through an Air Force friend, we have reserved VIP section of Marble Beach for bathing and lunch.

Common beach was packed with locals who have paid Rs.20 to Air Force base to get access. VIP section is more or less deserted.

Marble Beach is one of the best beaches in the country with crystal clear shallow water with no waves at all. Bathing there is a tranquilizing experience.

Even the high cost of lunch (Rs.750 per head!!!!!) did not dampen our excitement!!!.

Marble Beach	Marble Beach
Marble Beach	Marble Beach
Restaurant

After Lunch, we proceeded to see the famous tank farm. It is presently under a long term lease with IOC and they discourage people visiting the site. We had to get the permission from Senior In charge, Mr. Chandrakanthan (0262233283/0759278689)

The tank farm consists of more than 100 huge tanks. IOC is using only 6 tanks.

On the 9th, April 1942, a Japanese bomber crashed onto one tank and the resultant inferno took 7 days to subside. There Japanese were killed.

Tank 91 (Click Image to Enlarge)	Monument Built in memory of suicide bombers has vanished but the cross which held it still intact
Remains of the melted tank	.
.	Other Tanks are rotting in the jungle

After the Tank Farm, we went to our place of stay.

Golden Beach Cottages was recommended by one of our Navy friends. It is in the close vicinity of Trinco town. The complex has around 12 cottages. Each can accommodate 3, but any number is ok with the management provided you can rough out. It has a beach front and a restaurant. Cottage charge is Rs. 3000 per day. Lunch/Dinner is Rs.350 per head and Breakfast is Rs.250. The place is homely.

People enjoying in the beach front of the hotel

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14.08.2011 (Sunday)

Early morning we started from Trinco towards Pulmoddai. Near 39th KM post, at Kuchchiveli, there is a Navy Camp. Behind the camp, neat the beach on a hillock, there is some ruins of a Sthupa known as Pichchamal Viharaya (Kuchchaveli Viharaya).

Hillock is known as Karandi Malai (Walas Kanda).

You have to get permission from the camp to visit the place.

Pichchamal Viharaya - Kuchchaveli Viharaya (Click Image to Enlarge)	Click Image to Enlarge
Walas Kanda	Pichchamal Viharaya
Pichchamal Viharaya	Pichchamal Viharaya
Pichchamal Viharaya	Pichchamal Viharaya
Pichchamal Viharaya

We proceeded further to reach Girihandu Seya at Thiriyaya. This is the place where Thapassu and Bhalluka constructed the first sthupa in the country by embedding Kesha Dhathu. The area is glutted with ruins.

Girihandu Seya at Thiriyaya (Click Image to Enlarge)	Stone Script
Meaning (Click Image to Enlarge)	Stone Bridge
Road to Stupa	Road to Stupa
Ruined Stupa	.
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From Thiriyaya we continued towards Pulmoddai on a fine road with newly constructed steel bridges that have replaced several ferries on the way. Road was virtually deserted enabling us to take photos posing on the middle of the road.

Yarn (Yaan) Oya

Yarn (Yaan) Oya

Our desired destination was another beautiful beach called Arisimalai Beach. In Tamil, Arisimalai means a mountain of Samba Rice.

Turning right from Pulmoddai town and passing the typical black beach, we reached the entrance of Arisimalai beach. A short walk through a lusty patch of jungle ended at a closed alcove of a beach which is miraculously saved from black beach by protective rock formation. The sand is pure Samba.

Entrance to Arisimalai	Walk through Wilderness
To the Beach	Protective Rock Formation
Samba	.

From Arisimalai, we drove back to Nilaveli and visited Pigeon Island. It is glad to see that Navy is enforcing security requirements strictly. Our group consisted of 7 adults and one 3 year old child. We had to get a special permission to use one boat as the allowed maximum load is 7 heads!!!!

One good news about Pigeon Island. Approaching beach front of the island used to be a coral graveyard. Now budding corals can be seen here and there. Wildlife Officer warns off visitors from the area. We praised him and he was so happy.

Pigeon Island National Park

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We started back with the rain in progress and met rough weather halfway. Coastline disappeared, wind started screaming, waves came higher and higher and rain drops felt like pebbles. Life jackets were no consolation at all.

Bad Time of Departure

The second day ended like that.

15.08.2011 (Monday)

Our plan included a guided tour in Naval Base and a naval boat trip before rushing back to Colombo.

Early morning brought a bad news. There was a conflict between Navy and residents at Kanniya on Grease Yaka issue and orders were given not to launch any Navy vessel to water as a safety precaution. (Apitamai Wenne!!!). So we had to be satisfied with the guided tour.

Trinco Naval Base is a wonderful place. Our Navy friend described it as a country of its own with a population of more than 10,000. Most part of it is covered by thick jungle. Labyrinth of tunnels, constructed by British, lay underneath of ground formation. Some are used by Navy while most are abandoned to wild animals such as leopards, bears etc. According to our friend, an expedition through them would reveal marvels including things left behind by British.

The most fascinating place is the Hoods Tower Museum.

“The name of the museum refers to a watchtower built on a hill, which commands a 360-degree view of the harbor and the bay. Three massive canons with a five-kilometer range, installed during the British period, keep a silent vigil over the harbor. Used for defense, the canons now form the centerpiece of an impressive array of antiquated military hardware”

Hoods Tower	Top of the Tower
View from the tower	Demonstrative Exhibit – Ship’s Wheel
Ancient Fort built by a King – Now a part of Museum	Ancient Fort built by a King
Massive Canons - Description (Click Image to Enlarge)	Massive Canon – Loading Point
Massive Canon – Firing Point	Massive Canon – Seen from outside
Massive Canon – Seen from outside	Weapons captured from LTTE
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Boats captured from LTTE	LTTE Submarine
.	Suicide Boat

The Naval Base has two nice beaches called Elephant Point and Coral Cove.

At the Museum we saw some moving photos of a rescue operation where Navy personnel were saving the life of an elephant who was swept to sea while trying to cross the shallow water. Elephant Point is the place where they saw the elephant

Elephant Point	.
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Approach to Coral Cove – Scenic	.
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Among these rocks – Wanderland of Fishes	.
.	Nice Location to have lunch – All facilities available
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We left Trinco by 2.00 pm and had a late lunch on the dam of Kantale Tank.

lunch on the dam of Kantale Tank

END OF ANOTHER TRIP

Even though we live very close to the city of Galle, we didn’t explore the grandeur of the city very closely. So we decided to look close at the Galle Fort and explore the living beach of Koggala and Martin Wickremasinghe memorial folk museum.

We started our journey from Hikkaduwa railway station at about 8 am and got a bus to Koggala from Galle. We reached to the exciting beach of Koggala and had our breakfast at well maintained beach park about 9.

On the way to Galle
Exciting beach of Koggala	Exciting beach of Koggala

The beach park is well maintained by the local government body. No garbage is seen on the beach and plenty of dustbins available. Water and toilet facilities are also in good condition.
We could see numerous creatures on beach when we look closely.

Moving sea shell	Each and every sea shell moves!
every sea shell moves	Crab on a mossy rock

After exploring the beach we entered to the Martin Wickremasinghe memorial folk museum. We were lucky to see the birth place of this great Sinhalese author in its original condition.

Martin Wickremasinghe memorial folk museum

Ancestral home of Martin Wickremasinghe

There were numerous exhibits in the museum with a great archeological value. But unfortunately I’m not allowed to take photographs of them as it’s prohibited. We spent about 4 hours in the museum and then had our lunch in the museum premises. The water sources in the premises were quite dirty and unhygienic. So you are thoroughly advised to not to drink water from taps in the premises.

After having the lunch we moved to Galle by bus to visit the Galle Fort.

First glimpse of great fort!

VOC Symbol	Canon base in Fortress

We are a group of three families and use to go on leisure trips during school holidays, and this time it was towards north east. We started from Gampaha around 6.00 am and reached Dambulla around 11.00 am, after having breakfast at Kurunegala.

We bought all provisions from Cargills food city at Dambulla and headed towards Habarana. From Habarana junction we turned left towards Maradankadawala and after few kilo meters we turned left at Palugaswewa, which was the road to Galkadawala tank. Another four Kilo meters on this road, we were at Galkadawala forest lodge.

This lodge is an isolated, quiet very simple place and it is far away from human habitat. It’s surrounded by huge trees and gives the real feeling of a forest. You will not be disturbed as there are no TV or telephones, except the hassle of your mobile phone. There are swings and outdoor showers. This is an ideal place for a relaxing holiday.

There are three rooms with attach bathrooms and three persons can accommodate in a room. There is an upper deck for the purpose of viewing surroundings and there are facilities for another four persons to sleep there. There is a cook and a caretaker, (Shantha and Kariyawasam) both are very friendly and obliging.

Climb this ladder to get into the first floor

Upper deck is an open area and the cool breeze from Galkadawala tank is really refreshing

While they were preparing the lunch we all had a walk along the Galkadawala tank

Water levels were very law (almost dry) due to the prevailing drought

Having lunch in a hurry we rushed to Kawudulla and reached the park by 3.30pm. We were lucky that we could see few herds of elephants within a short period of two hours we spent inside the park.

The park has not lost its green, in spite of the existing dry whether	First herd of elephants seen
Lonely elephant	Sand bath
Another herd

After spending about two hours inside the park, we left around 6.30 pm. Before leaving the park we visited the museum at the entrance to the park.

Museum at Kaudulla

Museum at Kaudulla

We reached the main road and turned towards Habarana on Habarana/Kanthale road and all of a sudden someone in the jeep shouted saying ‘Aliyek enawaa’ (අලියෙක් එනවා). Then we all looked back to see a jumbo was charging towards us. Couldn’t get a good picture as all of us were panic and didn’t even bother to find the camera. Anyhow my daughter had managed to get a click with her phone camera which was not very clear. It was around 6.45 pm and gloomy.

He was about 50 meters away from our jeep

It was a memorable experience especially for kids. When we reached the lodge it was 7.30 pm. All of us were tired and were refreshed after a cool bath under outdoor showers.

Next day we had the breakfast with hoppers. Shanta and kariyawasam are experts in cooking and they can prepare hoppers, String hoppers, Pittu, rottee, Kola kenda etc.

After a delicious breakfast we left the lodge around 9.00 am and headed towards our next destination, Kanthale. It was just less than one hour journey and the road was in excellent condition. We stayed in a government circuit bungalow for two days. It was a magnificent location to have a holiday bungalow, just on the bank of the Kanthale Lake. The continuous and noisy blow of cool air which comes from the lake side was really refreshing.

Kanthale Lake seen from the bungalow, water levels are very low due to the drought

My two sons are crazy of flying kites and they brought two kites from home. The blow at circuit bungalow was perfect for flying kites

Getting ready	A test run
High and high fly over the sky	High and high fly over the sky
While they were flying kites others had a cool dip in the lake

The entire evening went on with kites and bathing. It was very late when we arrived at the circuit bungalow.

Next day morning we prepared lunch packets and started our long journey to Lanka Patuna. Our first destination was Seruwila which is 42 km from Kanthale. The road was under heavy constructions and the RDA was putting up new culverts at every inch of the road. Therefore we had to use byroads at each construction site. We wasted four hours on the road, to drive 42 km from Kanthale to Seruwila.

Seruwila (Also refers as Seruwawila) is situated 20 Km south from Muttur. King Kawantissa (Father of King Dutugemunu) has built this pagoda after burying the sacred forehead bone relics of the Lord Buddha.

Pagoda at Seruwila templ

A walk round the temple

From Seriwila we proceeded to our next destination, Lanka Patuna via Thoppur and the distance was 23 km. Road was mostly gravel but not that bad. After passing Thoppur town the entire area up to the Lanka Patuna was under LTTE control until 2009. But now people are moving freely and there were several housing schemes coming up for resettlement of displaced persons. We saw several buildings that were destroyed during the war.

War ravaged building

Closer view of same building

Lanka Patuna is significant as an ancient port known as “Lanka pattana” where the prince Dhantha & Princess Hemamala who came from India ‘Kalingu Desaya’ and landed with the sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha. From there both of them left to Anuradhapura to hand over the scared tooth relic to the then ruling king Kithsirimewan.

This temple is elegantly located on a top of a rock and surrounded by the sea from east and ‘Ullukkuliya’ lagoon from west. Most remarkable feature is that the population around this temple are 100% non Buddhists.

During the war, LTTE has destroyed the pagoda and many other ruins of this temple and used this place as a base for their operations. The pagoda which is there today was built in 2009 by army and navy personals under the supervision of Archeological Department. The designer of the pagoda is Venerable Ellawala Medananda Himi (Member of Parliament)

Pagoda is seen emerging through the thick jungle	Pagoda is elegantly located on a top of a rock
Endless view of the wonderful eastern coast seen from Lanka Patuna	‘Ullukkuliya’ lagoon (west border of the temple) seen from Lanka Patuna

LTTE has constructed a bridge at this place with the help of a NGO. But the air force has destroyed it by shelling bombs. A new bridge is now under construction across the lagoon for those who come via Vakarie, Verugal and Mawadichena side. Until then there is a boat service for pilgrims (free of service) to cross the lagoon.

There is a wishrama Shalawa which can accommodate more than hundred pilgrims at a time. There is a Kitchen and you will have to do your own cooking. You can reserve this place by calling Bandarawela Sumeda Himi on 026 5682387 or 077 9704311

We had our lunch (which we brought from Kanthale) at the Navy camp near Lanka Patuna and then proceeded back to Kanthale on same route. On the way we stopped at a small hotel to have a tea. Name of that hotel is Very famous and known by any Srilankan.

But Mavil Aru channel is miles away from this place	Very well brought up” group of pupils walking calmly in front of their master
We met some jumbos on our way back but couldn’t get a good view as it was around 6.30 pm and dark

Travelling back along the same route from Seruwila to Kanthale was sickening. It was almost 8.30 pm when we reached Kanthale.

Next day was the final day of our journey. While having breakfast there was a suggestion from kids to go to Nilaweli. But I (Nade Gura) was reluctant as it was another 50 Km on the opposite direction and it will add another 100 km for the last day. Kids were insisting and I decided to go. Although it was 50 Km it took only one hour and fifteen minutes to come to Nilaweli as the road conditions were excellent.

Beauty of Nelaweli beech and the pigeon island at the far end

It’s much more beautiful to observe as the colour of water is getting changed from light brown to dark blue towards the pigeon island

We started at sharp 3 in the morning as our tour iternery was packed with places to visit. And took the Colombo- Puttalam road which was quite clear at that time and reached Puttalam at 4.45 and had breakfast at a known place ( One of my friend’s old family friends). It was a very tasty meal and afterwards left for Wilpattu and went inside around 7am.

Though we circled inside till 10.30 , we only saw wild buffalos, Deer, crocs, Jackals and some birds. The roads were ok except for a couple of places which were flooded slightly.

Green Imperial PIGEON	Peacock in full flow
Malabar pied Hornbill	Hi-LUX following
Crested Drongo	Crocodile submerging

Wild Buffalo

We then proceeded towards Anuradhapura and the road from Nochchiyagama to Anuradhapura was horrible with lots of pot holes. After Anuradhapura we turned from Maradankadawela and went to Giritale passing Habarana and reached the Hotel at 1.30 pm as the road was very good. After Lunch we went to Kavudulla park saw some Elephants on the left side of the bunt and a lone grown Elephant in the open area near the lake. Some Eagles were also seen. The office has been done up beautifully recently with a small museum etc.

Kavudulla bunt	Baby Elephant
The lone Elephant	The lone Elephant
Tortoise	Changeable Hawk Eagle

We had a good buffet dinner at the hotel retired early to our rooms a little tired as we had done 450 km for the day.

Giritale hotel

Giritale hotel

Giritale hotel

The following day after breakfast we left for Passikudah around 10 am .The entire road from giritale-kaduruwela-welikanda-valachchanai was a treat to drive. It was fully carpeted and most of the time the road was very straight for miles.We touched 160km/h at times with ease. Near Valachchanai police station we turned left and passed Kalkudah and reached the beach.

The straight road from Kaduruwela

Turn off to Passikudah

A kovil in Kalkudah

Police station in Kalkudah

We managed to get a piece of private beach just close to Mallu Mallu resort that was opened on 2 days after we went. The water was great , very clear and was about 4 feet only after 20 meters. We could see a big cro 200-300 meters away from us. We were in the water for almost 2 hours as we did not feel time passing. One of my friends who is a senior police officer organized lunch packets from a restaurant close by and consumed in a hut close by.

Famous beach with calm sea	Passikudah Beach
	The hut where we changed and had lunch

Afterwards we left and reached Minneriya park just minutes before the books were closed. The water levels of the lake inside had risen up very much though it is pretty dry at present and the park had closed the by roads leading to the lake and we went on the main roads. We saw a herd of 15 Elephant with 2 very small ones at close range and came out passed 6.30.

The herd in Minneriya	The herd in Minneriya
very small ones at close range

The following morning after breakfast we all 8 of us went for a herbal massage at the hotel and I must tell you it was really soothing.this take about an hour and after the full body and head massage you are put under a kohomba enclosure and steam is sent all over. Then you go into a mud hut for sauna treatment and a hot water shower is taken finally. Afterwards we had a swim in the pool and checked out after lunch at 3.45pm.We reached Colombo around 10.30pm. It was a very enjoyable trip

Having fun in the pool

We left Mount Lavinia around 6 am heading on to Kurunegala Road which was good and not much traffic, continuing at a leisurely pace enjoying the sceneries along the route and about 30 k.m. pass Kurunegala made a brief stopover for breakfast. A waysides stretch of small boutiques their specialty! Hot pol roti, lunu miriss, katta Sambol and ginger tea.

After enjoying a hearty breakfast we proceeded towards Dambulla by cruising along the admiring lush greenery and the beautiful landscape. Passing Dambulla made a right turn to a smaller road leading to the Vil Uyana Hotel for refreshments. The view from the restaurant was fascinating; the Sigiriya rock in the background at a distance surrounded with lush green forest was awesome. Subsequently we made a tour of the Sigiriya rock fortress which is my daughter’s number one priority in the agenda. The panoramic view from atop the rock fortress and surrounding landscape was breathtaking, wonderful experience especially for my daughter visiting Sigiriya for the first time. Continuing along the paths of this historical ancient site we came to the museum which was enchanting and enlightening. A flash back to history and reminiscent of our ancient king, he made the famous eighth wonder of the world – the Sigiriya rock fortress.

Vil Uyana Hotel	Beautiful View from Vil Uyana Hotel
Sigiriya Rock Fortress on Background	Sigiriya Rock Fortress
Beautiful Colors on The Rock	The Lion’s Paw
Two Huge Paws on Solid Rock	Beautiful Scenery
More Beautiful Scenery	Road in Good Condition
Feeding on the Lush Vegetation	Minding their Own Business

We proceeded on Habarana /Trinco road driving was quite effortless and guess what? A heard of Elephants feeding gracefully very close to the road undisturbed and not hindered by the traffic. Its heart rendering and very tragic to hear the barbaric tactics adopted such as hakka patas and barbed pits to kill these majestic animals & other wildlife by poachers, hunters and farmers whom should be prosecuted to the maximum.

We continued on our journey stopping briefly at Kantale for a short breather to quench our thirst then to Trinco. It was around 9 pm when we arrived at the Sarvodaya hostel for a well earned dinner & a good night sleep. The hostel is on Nilaveli road, 2to 3 Km from town. It’s close to the beach and not too far from the Nilaveli Beach Hotel. It has single, double and family rooms, with hot water, a/c or fans, attached bathrooms & showers.

In house cafeteria and restaurant providing meals morning noon and night on request, but they are pricy. The rooms are priced reasonably, a family room Rs.2500/ and double and singles are less. Early next morning after breakfast we proceeded to Pigeon Island driving leisurely down Nilaveli road for about 15 to 20 minutes we arrived at the parking lot, adjoining the Nilaveli hotel. There was excitement as every one was getting off their vehicles and hurried towards the beach to get the first boat to Pigeon Island.

This stretch of whit sandy beach with clear turquoise water, the island at a distance was a breathtaking sight.

The Turquoise Blue Waters Of Nilaveli	Boat To Pigeon Island
Welcome To Pigeon Island	View From The Shade Of The Picnic Area
Enjoying and having Fun in the water	Long Stretches Of Sandy Beach

After spending a fun filled morning swimming, snorkeling and exploring Pigeon Island headed back to mainland by boat. The boat ride costs Rs.2000.00 two way trip for six adults.

Next on our agenda was hot wells in Kanniya driving a short distance we arrived and parked the jeep, walked along the Bazaar Street to the hot spring wells, it was quite interesting and fascinating how each well had a slightly different temperature. Enjoyed an excellent hot well water bath from all seven to get the feel, & get rid of the salt. It was absolutely relaxing and refreshing to continue on the rest of the journey.

My buddy Nandasena a former govt. servant served in this area new all the hot spots, especially the good eating joint. Enjoyed a hearty lunch and proceeded towards China bay viewing the gorgeous sceneries on either side of the road. The Prima factory, the fishing boats returning with their catch and unloading at the fisheries harbor, The air force fighter jets taking off from the Air force base on training missions added to the enjoyment and excitement along this stretch.

The Entrance To Kanniya Hot Springs	The Bazaar Area
Getting The Sea Salt Off	If Improved Would Be A Major Tourist Spot
Small Island Off The Kinniya Beach	Shady Trees Close To The Beach
Beautiful View From The Shade	Miles Of Sandy Beaches

Continuing along this route enjoying the beauty, we came to the Kinniya Bridge, constructed recently, which is the longest bridge in Sri Lanka. The view from the bridge overlooking Koddiya Bay was fantastic. Travelling another 15-20 Km. on this road viewing the enchanting sceneries we turned and headed to our next destination –Lanka IOC Refinery tank farm. After obtaining necessary permission, we proceeded on narrow interior road with thick jungle on either side for another 5-6 Km to reach the tank farm. arriving at the site holding tank #91 we were amazed at the sight of this solid huge oil storage tank built by the British, lay crumpled, steel melted and in ruins on the impact of the Japanese fighter jet pilot ramming it in order to destroy the tank farm during World War II. Since it was getting dark and stories of wild elephants frequenting this jungle at dusk, we hurried back to the main road heading towards Kinniya, the panoramic view of the surrounding area and over looking the Koddiya bay at sun set was really

Lanka IOC Office in Trincomalee	Rusted Parts Of The Huge Oil Tank
Crumpled Metal	What’s Left Of The Giant Tank
Beautiful Sun Set	Koddiyar Bay
Surrounding Landscape	At Dusk

Early next morning having partaken in delicious hostel restaurant, made stringhopprs, dhal curry & pol sambol breakfast we proceeded to explore places of interests in Trinco.

The Trincomalee harbor was one, the third largest natural and deep harbor in the world. The fort Frederick, Tirukoneswaram temple and the point of lovers leap located within Swami Rock and surrounding land and seascape was really breathtaking, especially the Turquoise blue waters deep below Swami Rock, fishing boats putting out to deep sea and some returning from a night’s fishing contributed to the splendor of surrounding view from this location.

After spending a memorable time we headed to our next destination the Navy Base and Marble Beach. Unfortunately we were unable to contact the known officer to get permission, as he had to attend to urgent duty in Jaffna. We had to drop the idea.

Our next destination was Passikudha, made inquiries on the conditions of the new Kinniya – Mutur road and the feedback was good.

	The Entrance To Fort Frederick
Thirukoneswaram Temple	Inside The Temple
Surrounding Sceneries	Fishing Boats
Lovers Leap	From Atop Swami Rock

We continued on this towards Verugal, hardly any traffic, people or shops on this route. Good idea to have plenty of drinking water, juice, fresh fruits to quench your thirst because one can drink a lot. As it’s hot and humid in this part of no mans land. Sri Lanka has the natural beauty no matter, wherever you may travel and this Mutur – Verugal route is no exception. Continuing along the way enjoy the scenery, assortment of scrubland, marshes, forest patches, rocks, Palmyra groves, reservoir, streams and the lush green vegetation with herds of feeding cattle, displaying a unique beauty of its own. This road has been newly constructed and the old ferries have been replaced with new bridges, some stretches extending 5 to15 Km. had got badly affected due heavy rains in September, as the carpeting has not been laid, the top fill earth has washed away, leaving huge pot holes. That driving through these stretches avoiding the ruts and potholes needs patience and skill. After driving through a never ending nerve wrecking journey finally we reached Valachchenai for a well deserved lunch.

Stretches Of The New Road Damaged Due Heavy Rain	Huge Natural Rock Boulders In the Background
Needs Wheel Alignment! Construction Ahead	Extra Long Bara Bage
Section Of The Old Road ....	..... and General Landscape On Either Side on This Route
One Of Five Bridges That Has Replaced The Ferries	Taking A Cool Dip
Land Ready For Cultivation	Lush Greenery in areas Already Cultivated

After a hearty meal and a short breather we were on our way to Passikudha beach, there was much enthusiasm & excitement in the air as none of the crew had been here before. After short drive and eventually there, the beautiful view of the surrounding gulf and the shallow crystal blue waters were most inviting and no time everyone was enjoying, having an wonderful time on the beach. Passikudha with its beauty and superb beach has another plus to its credit, economic accommodation. Making inquiries found a quite decent guest house on beach road (an extension of the main Kalkudha road) Kokulas guest. The owner, Mr.Taran, an obliging guy, showed me around the guest house. The rooms are small but clean & tidy with bathroom. The meals provided on request. The price is Rs.500/ per room – could negotiate if occupying three rooms. Phone: 060 2641431, 065 2257484, mobile: 077632 7842.

There were two other with decent rooms’ clean bathrooms offering basic facilities for the same rates. “New lands”, owner Mr.Rumi phone: 065 568 0440 mobile: 0779231403

“Simla Inn”, owner Mrs.Victoria Phone: 0776031272.

Don’t forget to include the use of a bicycle in the deal to run around if you need.

“Passikudha Here We Come”	Fun In The Water
Gorgeous Sandy Beach	Calm, Shallow And Inviting Water
Spectacular View Turquoise Water’s Meeting The Blue Sky	.... and The Fishing Boats
Hey These Guys Have Better Road Manners!	Deer Run Hotel Giritale Pool Area
Quick Stop Over For Refresments	Enjoying The Warm Water’s Of The Giritale Tank
The Giritale Tank And The Panoramic View Of The Surrounding Area At Sun Set Was Breathtaking
Sun Set Back And Beyond Giritale Tank	Gorgeous Sky Over Minneriya Tank

After spending a memorable time at Passikudha, we proceeded to Kalkudha, another beautiful beach. Unfortunately it was a brief stopover on way to Valachenai to Punani proceeding towards Polonnaruwa. The crew was tired and hungry by now and was looking for good spot to eat and Relax and have a short breather, continuing along enjoying the sceneries on both sides ended at Giritale, where we stopped over for round of thirst quenching drinks and refreshments at Deer park hotel. Rested and refreshed started our homeward journey, driving along the Giritale Tank at sunset was gorgeous, continued along the scenic drive to see the beauty around the lake at dusk, not too far was Minneriya tank where we saw a herd of Elephants feeding at distance.

It was getting dark, could hardly see anything worthwhile, and we drove at a leisurely pace to Kurunegala, for the dinner stop. After enjoying a hearty hopper/egg hopper, chicken curry diet, we headed to Mount Lavinia thus ending another memorable trip with family and friends on my short holiday in Sri Lanka.

Thanks for reading this trip report, hope you enjoyed it.

-Neil De-

With a 5 day holiday on the calendar we had planned a long trip across manner etc. but with rains and floods we gave up the idea and headed south without any particular plan. And somehow the 5 days disappeared!

Life along the way…

Did anyone say the young men don’t enjoy කුබුරු වැඩ….!!

Learning early…and having fun

Process of paduru making

If you take the back roads rather than the coastal road, the environment is quite different. We were rather surprised to find such a lot of lovely wawes. When we passed Lenabatuwa wawe (between Akkurassa and Kamburupitiya) it was too late for photos but it seems a very very lovely place. There is a little guest house just on the side of the wawe which looked like a potential base. There was a board for the Lenabatuwa Bio Diversity Park and someone told us that walking in the forest is quite interesting. It certainly looked lovely.

Some other wawes were:

Dandeniya Wawe ( near Ratmale, it is possible to approach from Dikwalle)	Uyan wawe
Uyan wawe, very close to Umangala Viharaya. We did not have time to go looking for the waterfall that is supposed to be close by.	There were some very obvious leaks in from under the tank bund, but the villagers seemed to be quite used to living with them!

Umangala Ovagiri Viharaya, Gangodagama. Closest town is Hakmana, which can be approached from the coast via Dikwalle.

Board showing the way

Signs that we have arrived at a Viharaya – Helmets and slippers off!

But a small warning:

But all those steps lead somewhere…

Three tiny Budu Ge with some unusual paintings, and right at the top, in addition to the view, a little Dagaba and pond and some dramatic Arayaliya trees.

A depiction of the 5 places that the Buddha has placed his foot print in Sri Lanka. I could only recognise Kalpitiya ( Makkama) and of course, Sri Pada. I have heard that Abeyagiriya is built over a Print, but can’t see a Dagaba in the painting so not sure. Does anyone have any ideas where the other 3 are?

One little Budu Ge was impossible to photograph, if you moved back to get it in the frame you fell down the crazily steep steps!! But two that I managed:

One little Budu Ge was impossible to photograph

The dramatic line of really old Araliya trees, three little village kids who ran up with us went direct to the trees and sat dangling their legs over the side!

The dramatic line of really old Araliya trees

For two nights were stayed just outside Yala Park but did not go in after seeing the perahara of vehicles that were going in and out.

It’s not a eco retreat, just a lovely මැටි පැල්පත ( near Yoda wawe)

just a lovely මැටි පැල්පත

But we also had our own little මැටි පැල්පත… Thanks to Back of Beyond, Yala!No words to describe it, especially on a brilliant poya night.

So if we didn’t go into the park, what did we do?

Once again explored the Yala beach, not so many shells as last time ( Trip Report: One week Deep South: Yala and around) but still beautiful.

Once again explored the Yala beach

Yala beach

Went looking for the Andagalwella Modara (cross the road at Yala Handiya and proceed towards Bundala):

Expanse of rock not sand. You can spend hours watching sea life in the rock pools below

The waves obviously come high on to the rocks

Squatters!!

Stunningly patterned fish. Attacking a crab??

Joys of growing up by the sea…!

Village boys waiting for the wave

Daily bath is nothing but a long water game!

Visited the Nimalawa Aranya and Thalaguru Vehera on the Yala road

Well camaflaged kutiya

Sakman maluwa edged with recycled bottles. Apparently it also helps to minimize creepy crawlies invading the maluwa and inadvently getting stepped on

Did a trip into “town”. Explored around Yatala

Yatala Dagoba

For the final day, we headed towards Embilipitiya thinking we can catch at least part of the opening match of the World Cup. Nothing doing, everyone but us had tickets so we went to where no tickets were needed:

Ramba Vehera ( on Nona Gama – Embilipitiya main road, just before Embilipitiya). Huge site, maintained like a tree covered park. Only a fraction has been excavated so far.

Dancing elephants: The playful look as in Isurumuniya and Ranmasu Uyana

Past, present and future: A student monk reading out loud pacing up and down the ancient viharaya

Urusitano Wawe and Sorowa
A big thank you to Priyanjan (Photo) for highlighting the place. A mind spinning combination of technology and artistry. It’s the first time I have seen the entire system of the ancient wawes so clearly. The biso kotuwa ( photo 1), the canal that would have been under the earth bund but is now visible (photo 2), the mouth of the canal (sluice?) where the water comes out of the wave and taken to the fields through canals (Photo 3). The old system has not been touched. The wawe (photo 4) is once again functioning the bund is as always where the main road runs, and the canal (photo 5) runs parallel to the ancient one. Lovely area to walk down.

For the fold history of the name see this article

Photo 1: The biso kotuwa	Photo 2: The canal that would have been under the earth bund but is now visible
Photo 3: where the water comes out of the wave and taken to the fields through canals	Photo 4: The wawe is once again functioning
Photo 5: The canal

There were lots of other ‘adventures and attractions’ but this is becoming a long trip report! So –The End.

According to the “Birds of Sri Lanka” by Prof. Sarath Kotagama, Mannar is one of the main entry points for migrant birds to the main land of Sri Lanka. The area facilitates lot of water holes which are rich of food for these birds. So only few of those birds that are not satisfied with those facilities only come inland, so Mannar is rich with bird life on migrant season mainly from September to May. Few of my friends who had been to Mannar recently had seen lot of bird life there. So we decide that it’s time to pay a visit to Mannar.

This was the first time I m going to Mannar, so before going I did some research on how to plan it. There is a nice trip report by jetwing CEO on his Mannar trip in 2006. According to that it has taken about 10 hrs for them to get to the Giant Tank. Keeping that in mind we plan to leave Colombo by 10 PM on Friday to get to Giant Tank by 7 AM. As always been so punctual we left Colombo one hour behind the schedule. But going in night and Thushara’s exceptional driving abilities has taken us to Madhawachchiya around 3.30 AM. We took Colombo –> Dambulla –> A9 to Madhawachchiya and A14 to Mannar instead of the Colombo –> Puttalum -> Anuradhapura –> Madhawachchiya to Mannar route. We were at Giant Tank reserve close to Murukkan by 5.30 and waited till the sun come out.

Marshes of Giant Tank Reserve just before sunrise

Rising Sun for the Northwest of Sri Lanka

There was lot of bird activities going around us. We wait there for about hour and saw about 15 bird species. It was a very nice place to observe Common Kingfisher. There were few ponds with lot of tiny fish. And Kingfishers were coming to these ponds almost every 5 minutes.

Waiting for a Kingfisher by Harsha Matarage

Common Kingfisher

I managed to shoot few other birds as well.

White-throated Munia	Indian Swiftlet (Please correct me if I m wrong)
Paddyfield Pipit	We were at Murunkan

We left the place to get to Giant Tank hoping that it will have lot of birds. But the Giant Tank was a giant, there was no chance in photographing there and even there were not many birds either. So we decided to keep going. Just before getting to Mannar Causeway we came across few interesting birds.

Eurasian Curlew

Grey Francolin

Both side of the Mannar Causeway is rich of birds. We saw few bird species there but most of them were quite far to be photographed. From the far end we saw the famous bridge for the singing fish, “Thalladi Bridge”.

Mannar causeway	Pacific golden plover
Thalladi Railway Bridge

Passing the causeway we reach the Mannar town. It was crowded as always. Getting the direction from a Navy soldier we headed toward Talaimannar. There was lot of birds on the way from Mannar town to Talaimannar. The lagoon in front of the STF training camp was full of gulls, plovers and godwits. The only problem was how to get close to them as it was all open area. We saw our first Baobab tree there (there are other Baobab trees before that, we saw them after this one.) and choose to get down for shooting some birds and getting the breakfast.

Black-tailed godwit

Gulls (Herring Gull, Yellow-legged Gull and Brown-headed Gull)

Gulls going crazy!

First Baobab tree	A Mash Sandpiper
Black-tailed godwit	Flying Black-tailed godwits
System Error…!!!	Thushara and the Jeep
Baobab Flowering…

Breakfast under the Baobab by Harsha Matarage

Then we headed toward the “Four Tee Rest Inn”, as per the owner Mr. Laurance it was 7.5Kms from the Mannar town to the Talaimannar side. There is a telecom tower on to your right just before turn to the Four Tee. You have to take the left turn from the four way junction just passing the telecom tower (there is a sign board).

“Four tee rest inn” as Namal has described on his thread, is a nice place. The owner has welcomed us with a worm smile. Only thing is his English is also like his Sinhala (I wish I know Tamil). With a map he gave an introduction to the area and where we should look for Birds. Interesting thing was he said he has seen a flock of 25 Flamingos and 3 Black-necked Storks. Been so tired after a long night travel we went to our rooms to get a rest.

It was about 3 when we walk up, and hurried up to get the lunch and get back to street. We have decided to go to the marsh area close to Kalladi Bridge. Just after getting in to the Mannar road we saw our first wild horses in Sri Lanka.

A Young wild horse

Mannar horses

Though they are wild, latter we saw some of them had tattooed letters on their body. Guess they are not wild anymore!

On the way we were always searching for birds close to our Baobab tree.

Garganey	Indian Roller
Indian Roller	Garganey landing..
A Tawny Coaster (Acraea terpsicore)

While getting to the Thalladi Bridge area we came across the old railway station in Mannar. Our guys were keen to go and explore it. We met a Sinhala guy from Ambalangoda who is working on the Mannar railway repairing project. According to the guy it will be fixed soon and we can enjoy a train ride from Colombo to Mannar in no more than few months

Old railway station by Harsha Matarage

Road beyond the railway station was lead us to a fishing village. The road was not in a good condition and the surrounding was not the best for birding either. We turn around from the village and return to our favorite area in Mannar, our Baobab tree!

Pink and green earth on the way back

Jacobin Cuckoo

It was too late for Bird Photography, but it was awesome for some sunset and silhouette photography.

Sunset over “Baobab Lagoon”	Silhouette of Harsha Matarage
It’s me and Thushara…!

It’s was time to return to Four Tee Rest Inn and have a good night sleep.

In the second day morning, we got up around 5.30, it was bit late for Birders to get up and look for birds. It must have been the long day yesterday kept us sleeping this long. As I have promised to my friends at Lakdasun, I managed to get some photos of the Four Tee Rest Inn. Here are few of them.

Four Tee Rest Inn!	Four Tee Rest Inn!
Four Tee Rest Inn!	Four Tee Rest Inn!
Four Tee Rest Inn!

It was time to explore a new area. This time we chose to explore Vankalai. According to the owner of the guesthouse this area is also great for birding. And it is true; we felt the deference as soon as we turn to the Vankalai road. There were plenty of birds all over the place.

Grey Heron	Painted Storks
Lagoons on the road to Vankalai	Vankalai bird life
“Kok” Fashion?	A Juvenile White-bellied Sea-Eagle
Eurasian Spoonbills	Flying Flamingos? Sadly they are not! Long bill had fool me

Morning session was not so bad. We got back to Mannar town and had our breakfast there, plenty of string hoppers, pittu and wade. My friends wanted to go to Talaimannar thought I was not that interested. We headed toward Talaimannar not forgetting to stop by the “Baobab” Lagoon.

Red-collared dove (I couldn’t find the red collar )
Lasantha with a rocket launcher	Hunters on the field..

Heading toward Talaimannar we came across these people fishing using nets. Not a sight to miss!

Fisherman

Not to miss the moment!

As I thought, Talaimannar was only so much hot. We had a chat with navy soldiers there and got to know there aren’t any birds there. We were at the place where old railway from Colombo to Mannar ends in the sea (pier). There is a light house as well. Navy guys said that they can see a tower in India in a clear day. It was only 18kms from there to India.

Our guys were looking for another pier knows as the “Old Pier”. Mistakenly we turn to Uramali road. Road conditions were unacceptable. So we decided to turn around. It was the road leads to the edge of the island and toward the famous Adam’s Bridge. Then we turn to the Nadukuda road looking for the “Old Pier”. There is a Navy camp at the end of the road and a fishing village. Navy officer in charge there was very helpful and took us around the beach area. From him we got to know that they are planning to start a boat service from Nadukuda around sandy islands of Adam’s Bridge as a tourist attraction. With the idea of returning to get this new experience in later day we return to Mannar. While crossing the causeway we came across this lovely bird.

Crab Plover

Search for birds was not finished yet, we turn to the Jaffna road from Thalladi to go to Vidattaltiya. The area behind the Thalladi camp was rich of birds. We couldn’t make it to Vidattaltiya, which has large lagoon cause of the delay we had close to Thalladi. Newly concreted Jaffna road was in great condition. We saw few lovely birds on this road.

Eurasian Spoonbill and a Black-winged Stilt

A spotted billed pelican

The road leads to Thirukeeshwaram Kovil, one of the famous Kovils in the area. We turn around the Kovil and got back to the Mannar – Madhawachchiya rd. There were plenty of wild donkeys on the road.

Mannar full of Donkeys

As soon as we turn to the main road we came across a Pied Kingfisher. Not a sight to miss. Thanks to one of my friends I love to shoot all those kingfishers in Sri Lanka and here is one of them.

Pied Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Here are more birds on the way back.

Got Ya !

Finally we got back to the Giant Tank. Though it was not so interesting site, and we still haven’t seen flamingos we stop by to have a look around. Harsha went to see if there is anything interesting and return in empty hand. Suddenly I saw something emerging from the background. It was time for landscape shooting with rainbow in the background !

Rainbow behind bank of the Giant Tank

Lovely view of the Giant Tank

Meanwhile Thushara had found a place full of Butterflies on the other side of the road. Here we are shooting some macros.

Macro shooting

Macro shooting

It was just pass 6PM. We haven’t had anything after breakfast and it was time to break fasting. We came across this great place for food in front of the Giant Tank which is managed by Army camp there. We had some great food for a lowest possible cost. A place to keep in mind!

After a two magnificent two days at Mannar, it was time for us to get back to home.