An “Ambalama” can be described as one of an important public building in ancient Sri Lanka. There were series of “Ambalama(s)” located along the roads, being land marks & resting places for travelers for free. It was a convenience and comfort to people traveling far; going on pilgrimages or visiting relatives by foot or cart. Usually “Ambalam” were built in a chosen spots such as by the side of a paddy field or stream. Facility of portable water was provided with a “pin-thaliya” (a pot of water) or a well.

Usually “Ambalam” were built in a chosen spots such as by the side of a paddy field or stream

Commonly “Ambalam” were simple buildings built by villagers on co-operative basis. They were consisted with a hipped type tiled roof on few timber or masonry columns. Perimeter walls were short and formed a seat for resting known as “Pila”.

Few were built totally with timber structures. In such a case, the Ambalama was built on four rock boulders to prevent from termite attacks. Panavitiya (or Panapitiya) was one of the said few.

Direction…

Chamila(My wife) & myself paid a short visit to Panavitiya few months ago. Finding the Panavitiya Ambalama was not much difficult although there was no sign board on the main road (Negombo-Kurunegala). The turn-off was done at Matiyagane; a small junction met before reaching Narammala town. The by-road was lead to Kadahapola junction. (Matiyagana School was also accessed by the same). Having traveling another few kilometers; we found another junction where the first sign board was located and we turned left again.

we reached the Archeological site passing a temple

“ Sri Lanka Thilakaramaya “ the temple @ Panavitiya

With nearly 4km drive from the main road, we reached the Archeological site passing a temple. In the first moment, having seen the outside appearance of the Ambalama, I was also confused as like as most of the previous travelers, whether we had reached the correct place. But once we entered in to the shelter, we could discover the wonder of wood carvings that Panavitiya was so famous for.

The boutique located in front of the Archeological site	Little confused having seen the outside appearance of the Ambalama
wonder of wood carvings	Inside view
Beams, rafters & ridge plate	A dancer?
Column heads & wall plates	Another column

The Panapitiya Ambalama is renovated and restored by the Department of Archeology. It is believed that Panavitiya Ambalama is one of the series of resting places located along the ancient foot path existed from Dambadeniya to Yapahuwa, via Kurunegala.

Might be the latest version of the said ancient foot path.

Angam fighters?

There was a popular folklore at the area. Once; a set of European soldiers (not exactly defined whether English or Dutch) were about to burn the Ambalama. But at the last moment one had noticed some carvings of Europeans among hundreds of wood carvings in the Ambalama. Having wonder on the same, the leader decided to give up destroying the building. But the real story behind the scene was that they had gone misunderstand on the dress (Saruwalaya) of “Angam fighters” in wood carvings as trousers. (Note: people who dress up in trousers were only Europeans those days). This might be a fiction. But the carvings of Angam-fighters are still there.

Have a safe journey!

This was my first visit to Yala after a break of more than two years. Even this time, it was only possible thanks to Pradeep & Erandi who organised everything from booking the Thalgasmankada Bungalow, arranging Bindu to drive us around and all rations for cooking!

We left at around 6.00 a.m in three Vehicles. Gone are the days where we would leave Colombo early enough to be at Yala by 6.00 a.m and straight away start an early morning drive around the park. Now the little ones decide the schedule and by the time we reached Yala it was around 1.00 p.m

We took Udawalawe route and  roads were in great shape throughout except for about 4km between Pannegamuwa and Debarawewa which is still under construction.  Particularly newly paved Udawalawe – Thanamalwila stretch was superb!

I couldn't resist the temptation to speed until the speedometer showed 120KMPH

Udawalawe Reservoir filled to Brim after unusually heavy NE monsoons this year

Beggar elephants of Udawalawe (See discussions Begging Elephants at Udawalawa and Elephant Beggars….?). Its a sad sight to see people engadging in this practice of feeding wild elephants which is bad for beasts as well as a dangerous thing to do when the electric fence is switched off during the day time.

Setting a bad example for the next generation. Its lack of awareness, otherwise a mother will never expose her child to such a risk

By the time we reached Palatupana entrance of Yala it was around 1.00 p.m. We met Bindu at the park entrance. We parked the two cars at the park office and headed towards the bungalow.

As soon as we entered the park, I noticed that it was quite wet, lush and greener than what it usually is in February. All water bodies were full to the capacity. Flowers were blooming all over the place and it was very different from the dusty and dry Yala you see for the most part of the year.

Ranawara bushes were full of flowers. At some places it looked like a large yellow blanket!

There were tiny flowers in different colors and shapes all over the place

We reached Thalgasmankada Bungalow at around 2.30 p.m. We learnt that we were the first party to stay there after it was closed  following an LTTE attack on the army camp which used to be there in front of the bungalow, about two years back. Until lunch was ready, we walked around the bungalow and spent some time at the river which was almost overflowing.

Thalgasmankada Wildlife Dept Bungalow

Overflowing Menik River behind Thalgasmankada Bungalow

After Lunch we relaxed a bit and started our first drive in the park. It was the first time some one else was driving me around in a park. Bindu’s specially modified vehicle provided a good, unobstructed view of the surrounding and since I was not driving, I had all the flexibility required for taking pictures. But I quickly realized that having the full control of the vehicle is far more important for me than anything else, specially with a driver like Bindu who’s one and only objective was to spot a leopard. Bindu had very little interest in the rest of the wildlife and the beauty of the park and was prepared to do anything, including breaking rules and some of the wildlife viewing ethics, to take us closer to a leopard.

As a result of this we did not see much during this first drive and ended up spending a long time in a queue of Jeeps to get a glimpse of a sleeping leopard!

Spotted Deer with Beautiful set of antlers

While the father was relaxing, the kid who was with the mother, was curious to find out who is photographing them!

If you go to Yala and tell your jeep driver and the trekker; “Show us a leopard some how”, this is what you will most likely to to end up with

Stuck in Traffic, waiting for a chance to see the leopard. All you hear is the noise of idling diesel engines and the smell of half burnt diesel fuel!

Here is the celebrity peacefully sleeping up in a palu tree; completely ignorant of the chaos around it

Most part of the afternoon was spent in “traffic” with little reward. If you really want to avoid this sort of a situation; the best would be to set the right expectations with your trekker and the jeep driver. Tell them that you are here to enjoy the beauty of the park; if you come across a leopard in the process, that will be great! but don’t spend your valuable time in the park just looking for leopards, you are missing much more if you do that.

On our way back to the bungalow; a painted stroke and a jungle fowl were spotted at close range.

Painted Stroke

Jungle Fowl

On the following day we left early for the first drive of the day. Again to our dissapointment the mad chase behind leopards restarted and rendered the whole morning drive useless! One of the biggest problems was lack of an instant communication mechanism between the driver/trekker who were in the front cabin of the truck and us who were in the back.

It was an overcast day at Yala (unusual in FEB!) and therefore we decided to do a mid-day drive as well. This time we told Bindu and the trekker that we would like to do a more relaxed drive and asked them to look for other wildlife other than the leopards. The situation improved dramatically! ..and the below images proves that it is us who should set the right expectations with the jeep operators and trekkers, because they seems to assume that everyone comes to Yala only to see leopards.

A Grey Heron, silently waiting for a fish to surface	A Yellow Wattled Lapwing - There was a pair feeding in an open field
A Painted Stroke Fishing in a pool created by the rain.	This little Green Bee Eater posed beautifully for the shot!
Curious baby and the cautious mother	Elephants were difficult to spot as water and food was plentiful in the park. When we finally came across a small herd all I had around was my 400mm lens!
Pair of Jackals enjoying the cool, overcast weather	We just missed the display!
This Mongoose was busy looking for something to eat in a puddle created by overnight rain	It did not take too long for it to strike gold! - Unfortunately we couldn't see what it caught. May be an unsuspecting fresh water crab or a frog

We returned to the bungalow for Lunch after the most successful drive so far.

At around 3.30 p.m. we started our third drive of the day. It was a Friday but the park was full of jeeps carrying foreign visitors. The leopard rush was out all over the park again. Luckily we spotted a leopard quickly! It was in a deep sleep on a rock and was barely visible. We managed to park our truck at a bend of the road, leaving enough space for the others to pass us and have a good look at the creature without us having to move. To take the advantage of this unique position we were in, we decided to spend the rest of the afternoon there and wait until the leopard wakes up.

As expected the drama started again! The news of the leopard spread in the park at the speed of light (with the help of mobile phones!) and in a matter of minutes there was a long queue of jeeps going past us, stopping for couple of minutes to take a look at the little bit of the creature that was visible, and wondering what the hell were we doing parked at the corner, staring mostly at the large rock where only the tail of a leopard is seen .

could catch only a glimpse of the sleeping Leopard

An hour later - all it did was to turn around and return to sleep!

The number of jeeps passing us slowly died down. We still did’t want to move and be part of the mad leopard hunt. So we continued to wait there. Finally it was getting close to 6.00 p.m. and we prepared to leave. Fortunately the leopard decided to wake up at last! It woke up and sat on the rock posing beautifully to the camera. Unfortunately light was not enough for a good shot .

....result of a more than two hour wait!

After two days of overcast weather, the third day was bright and sunny. It brought back the ideal conditions for photography but we had little time to spend in the park as it was the last day. The morning drive again brought good results as we did not focus too much on Leopards.

Blooming Butawa Lake, early in the mornig

A Whistling Teel - in some adventure mood

There was water every where and the Feeding frenzy continued

A darter drying its feathers in early morning light

That was it mostly. After the morning drive we packed our stuff and left the bungalow. On our way back we were lucky to see a leopard again. Unfortunately no photo opportunity again.

We were back at the park entrance well before noon and reached home in the evening.

With a 5 day holiday on the calendar we had planned a long trip across manner etc. but with rains and floods we gave up the idea and headed south without any particular plan. And somehow the 5 days disappeared!

Life along the way…

Did anyone say the young men don’t enjoy කුබුරු වැඩ….!!

Learning early…and having fun

Process of paduru making

If you take the back roads rather than the coastal road, the environment is quite different. We were rather surprised to find such a lot of lovely wawes. When we passed Lenabatuwa wawe (between Akkurassa and Kamburupitiya) it was too late for photos but it seems a very very lovely place. There is a little guest house just on the side of the wawe which looked like a potential base. There was a board for the Lenabatuwa Bio Diversity Park and someone told us that walking in the forest is quite interesting. It certainly looked lovely.

Some other wawes were:

Dandeniya Wawe ( near Ratmale, it is possible to approach from Dikwalle)	Uyan wawe
Uyan wawe, very close to Umangala Viharaya. We did not have time to go looking for the waterfall that is supposed to be close by.	There were some very obvious leaks in from under the tank bund, but the villagers seemed to be quite used to living with them!

Umangala Ovagiri Viharaya, Gangodagama. Closest town is Hakmana, which can be approached from the coast via Dikwalle.

Board showing the way

Signs that we have arrived at a Viharaya – Helmets and slippers off!

But a small warning:

But all those steps lead somewhere…

Three tiny Budu Ge with some unusual paintings, and right at the top, in addition to the view, a little Dagaba and pond and some dramatic Arayaliya trees.

A depiction of the 5 places that the Buddha has placed his foot print in Sri Lanka. I could only recognise Kalpitiya ( Makkama) and of course, Sri Pada. I have heard that Abeyagiriya is built over a Print, but can’t see a Dagaba in the painting so not sure. Does anyone have any ideas where the other 3 are?

One little Budu Ge was impossible to photograph, if you moved back to get it in the frame you fell down the crazily steep steps!! But two that I managed:

One little Budu Ge was impossible to photograph

The dramatic line of really old Araliya trees, three little village kids who ran up with us went direct to the trees and sat dangling their legs over the side!

The dramatic line of really old Araliya trees

For two nights were stayed just outside Yala Park but did not go in after seeing the perahara of vehicles that were going in and out.

It’s not a eco retreat, just a lovely මැටි පැල්පත ( near Yoda wawe)

just a lovely මැටි පැල්පත

But we also had our own little මැටි පැල්පත… Thanks to Back of Beyond, Yala!No words to describe it, especially on a brilliant poya night.

So if we didn’t go into the park, what did we do?

Once again explored the Yala beach, not so many shells as last time ( Trip Report: One week Deep South: Yala and around) but still beautiful.

Once again explored the Yala beach

Yala beach

Went looking for the Andagalwella Modara (cross the road at Yala Handiya and proceed towards Bundala):

Expanse of rock not sand. You can spend hours watching sea life in the rock pools below

The waves obviously come high on to the rocks

Squatters!!

Stunningly patterned fish. Attacking a crab??

Joys of growing up by the sea…!

Village boys waiting for the wave

Daily bath is nothing but a long water game!

Visited the Nimalawa Aranya and Thalaguru Vehera on the Yala road

Well camaflaged kutiya

Sakman maluwa edged with recycled bottles. Apparently it also helps to minimize creepy crawlies invading the maluwa and inadvently getting stepped on

Did a trip into “town”. Explored around Yatala

Yatala Dagoba

For the final day, we headed towards Embilipitiya thinking we can catch at least part of the opening match of the World Cup. Nothing doing, everyone but us had tickets so we went to where no tickets were needed:

Ramba Vehera ( on Nona Gama – Embilipitiya main road, just before Embilipitiya). Huge site, maintained like a tree covered park. Only a fraction has been excavated so far.

Dancing elephants: The playful look as in Isurumuniya and Ranmasu Uyana

Past, present and future: A student monk reading out loud pacing up and down the ancient viharaya

Urusitano Wawe and Sorowa
A big thank you to Priyanjan (Photo) for highlighting the place. A mind spinning combination of technology and artistry. It’s the first time I have seen the entire system of the ancient wawes so clearly. The biso kotuwa ( photo 1), the canal that would have been under the earth bund but is now visible (photo 2), the mouth of the canal (sluice?) where the water comes out of the wave and taken to the fields through canals (Photo 3). The old system has not been touched. The wawe (photo 4) is once again functioning the bund is as always where the main road runs, and the canal (photo 5) runs parallel to the ancient one. Lovely area to walk down.

For the fold history of the name see this article

Photo 1: The biso kotuwa	Photo 2: The canal that would have been under the earth bund but is now visible
Photo 3: where the water comes out of the wave and taken to the fields through canals	Photo 4: The wawe is once again functioning
Photo 5: The canal

There were lots of other ‘adventures and attractions’ but this is becoming a long trip report! So –The End.

This was also one of our dream hikes that we had to postpone several times because of the rain. But finally we had some fine weather and we decided to do it. But it was the starting day of a long weekend and the queues for the buses were miles long. We got into a Badulla bus after a one and a half hour wait in the queue. It was 2 am in the morning. After a four hour ride we reached Belihul Oya around 6 in the morning. Although we couldn’t take a good sleep previous night we were eager to start the hike. We had our breakfast there and took two three wheelers to reach the trail head.

View at trail head…

We were already stunned by the breathtaking views of the mountains. From here we followed the Lakdasun trail guide and continued our hike.

Hawagala mountain…

Peaceful…

Clear blue skies…

After passing the village we came to the pine plantation. We turn right into the pine forest and continue to climb. The climb was not that difficult. There were few leech attacks when we were going through the pine forest. As we climb higher we could see the southern parts of the country and it was so beautiful.

Beautiful…

This way or that way…?

After some time the trail left the pines and entered a small forest patch. After this the steep climb began. It was a tough climb but the views were breathtaking. The climate got changed suddenly and whole area was covered in thick mist within a matter of minutes.

Small forest patch…

Breathtaking…

Breathtaking…

More scenery…

More scenery…

Misty mountains…

The trail head is visible in the valley…

Is it Heaven…?

.

Lonely…

Path we came…

Tough climb…

Taking a break (and a group shot )…

Entering Non Pareil estate…

Once we entered the tea estate, the path was clear until we reach the managers bungalow. The time was 12 noon but the visibility was only a few meters because of heavy mist.

5km done 4km to go…

Heavy mist…

One in a million…

Manager’s bungalow…

From here we had to walk in dense forest to reach the World’s End. The footpath was clear in the beginning but later it was very difficult to find. We even got lost couple of times and finally managed to reach the observation deck at the world’s end.

Trail was clear at the beginning…

Giant ferns…

Reached the World’s End after 8 hours…

View from World’s End…

View from World’s End…

View from World’s End…

On the way to visitor’s center…

We had our lunch there and walked towards the visitor’s center. From there we hired a van to Pattipola station and took the night mail train back to Colombo.
This was an amazing hike with breathtaking views and we wish to do it again some time. Thank you, Lakdasun for the trail guide.

-The End-

Since it was a holiday, the lonely road was hardly interrupted by a vehicle. We were running across the most scenic and the largest University premises in Sri Lanka. Yes, it was the University of Peradeniya.

Having passing a number of majestic buildings belonged to the faculty of Arts, our vehicle slowed down at the famous “Wala”, the open theatre of Prof. Ediriweera Sarachchandra. The major building next to the same was the Hilada Obesekara hall, used as a girls’ hostel. I remembered for a moment, how this giant building was provided shelter to me during each weekend in my University days, since it was a boys’ hostel then. (We called it as “Gaje Gahanawa”).

We were heading Lulkandura / Loolecondera Estate, the first commercial tea plantation of Sri Lanka, which was located in a distance of 35km from Peradeniya. Just after the University premises, the climb was began. The road was bit narrow but had been maintained well. It was nice scenery of hilltops at Gampola area visible in our right hand side, especially the Govijana Seya of Ambuluwawa. The road was run through natural rain forests, pathana and pines lands.

the “junction of the bridge” very closed to Galaha	The road was run through natural rain forests, pathana and pines lands
we were able to enjoy the endless view of rangers at Kandy and Knuckles areas

The side of the steep was changed at the “junction of the bridge” very closed to Galaha. From there onwards we were able to enjoy the endless view of rangers at Kandy and Knuckles areas. Having passing Galaha & Deltota we reached the boundary of Lulkandura Estate. Once we reached the village town of Lulkandura, we asked for directions. In the next 500m we met the junction where we had to turn. There were prominent landmarks such as Hindu kovil, a bridge & several information boards on Lulkandura & James taylor.

we reached the boundary of Lulkandura / Loolecondera Estate	There were prominent landmarks such as Hindu kovil, a bridge & several information boards
Information boards on Lulkandura & James taylor	Entrance fee

The gravel road started from there was in good shape & could be managed with a car in average ground clearance. Having climbing nearly 1.2km we came to the 3way junction from where the access to the first tea plot planted by James taylor in 1867 was begun.

The gravel road started from there was in good shape & could be managed with a car

we came to the 3way junction from where the access to the first tea plot (Click image to enlarge)

The plot was 5 acres in size and harvesting yet. The access of the same was not in good shape & needed a 4wd vehicle. Otherwise it was a walk of 3km with an ascending. Neither our vehicle nor ourselves were capable to manage the issue, we continued ignoring the first tea plot.

Health tip

From that junction onwards the tea plantation was appeared to be much green & healthy.

From that junction onwards the tea plantation was appeared to be much green & healthy. It was a nice fact that some forest patches ware maintained along the tea plantation. Little water ways run in each low ground were provided enough evidence on how that practice was helped to conserve the environment of Lulkandura.

Green

summer hut on a natural lake

Passing a plot of recently trimmed tea plantation, we reached our destination. ( for our non Sri Lanken friends : Tea is grown as a huge tree but trimmed & maintained as bushes not higher than 3ft in commercial plantations ).

a plot of recently trimmed tea plantation

With a walk of 100m, we reached the site where the cabin of James Taylor was located. Since the cabin was made with logs, the chimney made with rubble in masonry work was the only in remains.

The well used by James Taylor	the site where the cabin of James Taylor was located
the chimney made with rubble in masonry work was the only in remains	Ode to JT (Click Image to Enlarge)

The story of James Taylor as per the plaque at the premises:

James Taylor was born in 29th March, 1835 in Scotland and came to Lolecondera in 1852 at his age of 17 years. He was a big made man with long beard and weighed 246 pounds. His first clearing was planted in 1867 and he made his tea in the verandh of his log cabin. The leaf was hand rolled on table and the product fetched Rs. 1.50 the local market.

He died on 2nd May, 1892 at the age of 57years. Twenty four men carried his coffin to Mahayyawa cemetery. Kanganies and laborers walked behind his coffin 8.00am to 4.30pm. James taylor the grand viceroy of Sri Lanka tea lived and died at Lolecondera. He remained a bachelor and Lolcondera was his first and last love.

It was just a moderate hike of 1.5km to the summit of Dotelagala (1450m) which was located behind the log cabin of James Taylor. But it was advised to beware on wasps attacks possible in the trail.

People at the summit of Dotelagala (1450m) zoomed

The popular view point called taylor seat was located with 300m distance to East from the log cabin. It was said to be the place where JT was used to refresh his mind and plan the future of Lolecondera. A rock structure made like a seat was there yet.

A pond closed to the car park at JT seat

James Taylor seat

View over the valley

Once you set there you would be able to view, Victoria reservoir, the sleeping warrior (Hinnasgiriya range), Knuckles range, Wilshire (Brandy gala) and Hampshire of Matale and some times Friars hood (Toppigala) of the Eastern plane over the valley.

Furthermore, you would sense why JT remained as a bachelor and Lolcondera was his first and last love.

We started form the Colombo at about 11.00 pm on the 16th February. (Though we had the booking for 2 nights/3 days (from 16th – 18th) we had to sacrifice a day as the permit holder was in abroad for business and landed only on 16th afternoon). So we decided to leave that night to be at the park entrance by 6.00 am on 17th Morning.

We stopped at a night hotel somewhere near Nittambuwa as two of my friends were out of dinner and drove up to Dambulla without stopping. We re-fueled from Damdulla around 3.00 am and drove to Pallegama. We stopped in a night tea shop somewhere near Pallegama to have a cup of tea. We arrived at the Park Entrance at around 5.45 am and proceeded to the bungalow after completing the formalities at the entrance office.

We faced thick fog along Dambulla – Bakamuna road and also from Pallegama to Wasgomuwa. And in some occasions we could not see the road clearly and had to use the road center markings and electric posts to find the road

The crew was 3 of us (the usual team is four, but the fourth member was in Kumana for the long weekend), so my son joined this time as the fourth member. My friend Upali drove up to Dambulla and Yasa drove from Dambulla to Wasgomuwa.

At last we came… Park entrance - around 5.45 am the entire area was covered in mist (“L” board – Vehicle using for driving lessons by my friends son)

The Kadurupitiya Bungalow (According to my knowledge this is the only Bungalow in all wildlife parks which have main Electricity and even Ceiling fans – which we didn’t expect) Usually the bungalows have only solar power

We unloaded the stuff and asked the Bungalow keeper Chandrasiri to make the B’fast and had a quick wash and proceeded the morning round.

As we were very tired and without sleep for a whole night, and decided to have a quick round trip around Medapitiya and Mahakadurupitiya.

Misty Morning - Mahakadurupitiya

Can see the Mist at the background

The roads inside the park were in very bad condition and muddy & full of water. Mostly all small water streams and causeways were overflowing. We had to turn-back on most of the occasions as we could not proceed along in some jeep tracks due to water and mud. So we could not see many animals but there ware lot of birds around these patches.

There ware lot of birds around	There ware lot of birds around
There ware lot of birds around	There ware lot of birds around
Peacock in abundance

The B’fast was Bread (we took from Colombo), Dhal, Pol-sambol and a Fish ambulthiyal especially made by my beloved wife.

After B’fast, we just relaxed and slept for couple of hours till Chandrasiri prepared the Lunch

Playing cards till lunch get ready – the gentlemen in white shirt was the Tracker – Mahesh

After lunch around 3.30 pm we set for the afternoon round and proceeded to Yudaganawa pitiya expecting Elephants as it is a famous spot for elephant gatherings. But there were only about 12 scattered around with a calf about 2 months old.

Don’t go that way Son…	I’m tired mama

Afterwards, we proceeded along the Waul Abe road and within few meters from the Waul Abe camp site turnoff we came across with 2 juvenile elephants and a fairly big female. One of the juvenile did a mock charge towards our vehicle.

One of the juvenile did a mock charge towards our vehicle
These were captured by my Son as I was on the other side of the vehicle	The big mother

As it was getting dark, our Tracker – Mahesh mentioned that it’s time to get back to the bungalow and we proceed on the main road towards the bungalow. After proceeding few kilometers we saw another tracker standing by the side of a jeep track.

He mentioned that 2 vehicles, a TATA cab and a Mitsubishi Montero Sports were stuck in the mud and asked us to help them to get it out. So we proceed along the jeep track and found both vehicles has trapped deeply in mud

we proceed along the jeep track and found both vehicles has trapped deeply in mud

Trapped deeply in mud

As non of the vehicles had any tow-ropes, we tried our level best to pull both with what we had and managed to do it with the help from another 4WD jeep and the crew cab of the park office.

Sunset from Yudaganawa pitiya

By the time we pull both vehicles out it was around 7.30 pm and we rushed back to the bungalow.

As we prepared ourselves for the night, we heard an alarming call of a Samber just behind the forest patch of the bungalow and within few seconds we heard a growling of a Leopard. We pointed our search lights towards it but couldn’t see anything. Chandrasiri – the bungalow keeper mentioned that this Leopard hang around that forest patch for quite some time and visits the bungalow area on and off.

We decided to check that area in the morning and left the bungalow around 6.00 am but we were not lucky enough to see it.

After B’fast, we packed our belongings and proceed back to Colombo via Dambulla, Kurunegala and reached Colombo around 4.30 pm

We were due to travel on the Kurunagala – Puttlam road with some time to spare. So I looked up a couple of books for some diversions and came up with two interesting sounding places – Tonigala Inscription and Paramakanda Viharaya – in සිරි ලක අැසු දුටු තැන්. We never made it to Tonigala (one of the largest inscriptions in SL) as we were so taken up with what we found in Paramakanda.

Turn off a few km past Anamaduwa by the sign board for Paramakanda Purana Viharaya. Driving through very flat land you suddenly see this huge rock outcrop ahead.

Even before you get there it becomes very obvious that it is a very unusual formation. What you see in this picture is the part of the rock that is visible as you approach it.	There seemed to be bits and pieces stuck together, a combination of different types of rock. And across a vast area
A sliced bread look, of a different colour to the main rock	The comparative size of the monkeys (hope you can see the family!) give an idea of the spread of the rock – and this is just a small tip of it! Look at the texture and colours of the rock in the foreground.

Before you enter the temple compound there is a flat space with a lake/swamp and some caves. Obviously very old meditation caves as the Kataram indicate. According to some villages we spoke to, it is still used on poya days by those who observe sil.

This one was large with space on three sides, AND an attached rock pond – I think it would qualify as a ‘suite with attached bath and toilet’!

We met the in-resident monk and he told us the history of the site, the folktales associated with it (the rock formations were unique and have foot prints embedded where monks had walked when it was still soft, but no one can comfortably step on the same prints now) and encouraged us to climb to the top first and then see the caves below.

What we found on top was a huge rock balancing on the main rock. It was certainly not like anything we had seen before. See how small a person looks and as you can see this is only part of the rock which is connected to the lower rock by a relatively small area.	The odd formations, textures, colours of the rock. At points it looked like mud that dried on a lake bed, at others like sand. The odd rock was difficult to walk on but even though the sun was very hot, the rock it self was not as hot as they normally are.
More odd formations, textures, colours of the rock	More odd formations, textures, colours of the rock

There was certainly a lot of evidence that this had been a major monastic site in the early periods of our history. As always the natural rock formation had been used to maximum benefit with minimum disturbance.

A slight drain cut in the rock to lead the water away from the cave.	Multiple levels, differing depths of kataram ( drip ledges) and niches – both square and round - to hold cross beams around the main boulder.
Currently there is a Budu Ge only on one side of the upper rock. If you look carefully at the picture you can see the kataram line.	One of the two Siri Pathla under the upper rock. The way it is placed it makes you think that the other print must be on the planes below.
Rock cut statues in the lower caves. (note the small square where the archeological department has scraped the paint to check the rock) There is a series of caves at the lower level with shrines from the earliest to the current period. It’s an extremely interesting study of a living religion and its changing art forms over thousands of years.	From top of the hill we could see this house – so like a dream, that I decided to blur the edges of the photo.

The monastic history we could piece together, but we just had too many unanswered questions about WHY the rocks were the way they were….based on a clue that it might be a rare occurrence of Jurassic rock in Sri Lanka I pulled out my copy of “An Introduction to The Geology of Sri Lanka”, by P.G. Cooray (1984 second edition, National Museums of Sri Lanka Publication).

And believe it or not, not only was Tonigala explained as a special rock formation in Sri Lanka, there was even a photo of Paramakanda and diagrams showing the formations!!

So, for any one whose curiosity is aroused, given below is a bit of information from the book that seems relevant:

“Tonigala Granite: The best known granite is the Tonigala granite, a pinkish, medium-grained granite with few dark minerals, though parts of it are gneissic in texture owing to the presence of streaks of biotite and hornblende. The granite occurs mainly as two sheets (figure given shows Paramakanda)….the more southerly of the two crosses the road from Puttalm to Kurunagala at Tonigala, near Anamaduwa, as a number of low, turtle backed outcrops, one of which is the famous Tonigala Inscription. …The main out crop of granite is marked by a line of prominent rocky outcrops or erosion remnants, such as Pramakande (534 feet), Labugala, and Pitihandewa (567 feet), most of which are sites of rock caves, ancient Buddhist shrines, and ruins”. (page 173)

Moving on in millions of years of geological time, in the section on ‘A fragment of Gondwanaland’ (page 189) P.G. Cooray says

‘The melting of the ice cap at the end of the Palaeozoic era was followed by uplift of the land and a general regression of the sea…Sri Lanka and the east coast of India continued to remain above sea level and still subject to denudation which removed great thicknesses of Precambrian rocks until even such deep-seated granitic gneisses as the Tonigala Complex were exposed’ (Page 190)

Granite tiles have become a big business in Sri Lanka due to the existence of these unusual colours and grains….Just think next time someone encourages you to use granite tiles, we are mining rare types in huge quantities for ‘flawless’ ‘high quality’ products. Do we REALLY need it? Can we recycle some old tiles or just let the existing floors, kitchen tops be? Who is going to reproduce these rocks and how long will it take???!!!

The connection to Jurassic rock that we initially thought was linked to Paramakanda is also made here;

‘The regression of the sea in Triassic times was followed during the Jurassic (about 150 Ma ago) by an encroachment of the sea on the land and it was only now that this part of Gondwanaland formed low land upon which sediments were deposited’ (page 190)

And more interesting bits as the story continues – (pages 190 – 192)

‘…it was towards the end of the Mesozoic era that the break-up of Gondwanaland began…the Himalayan mountain ranges were created out of this collision when the northern edge of the India plate began crumpling up the thousands of feet of sediments laid down on the southern margin of the Asian plate. The Cauvery Basin, the south-eastern margin of which was formed by the north-western part of Sri Lanka, developed during this initial break-up of Gondwanaland. …Sri Lanka was displaced southwards along the east coast of India. This structural separation of Sri Lanka from mainland of India appears to have begun in late Jurassic to early Cretaceous times. In addition to the south-west displacement, the island underwent a counter-clockwise rotational movement…’

A little bit more on the connection to Jurassic rock -

‘Sedimentary rocks of the Upper Jurassic age are preserved in at least three faulted basins…only one of these, [Tabbowa wawe] …is exposed at the surface. The others, at Andigama and Pallama, are completely covered by more recent deposits. [Jurassic] sediments were laid down on the margins of the ancient landmass – Gondwanaland…’(page 117)

The reason we initially thought the Paramakanda rock formation belonged to this group was that we returned on the Andigama – Pallama road (where our GPS said a road does not exist beyond Andigama to Bangadeniya!!) and Tabbowa is just beyond Tonigala/Paramakanda area.

In addition the description of Jurassic rock was very similar to what we had seen on Paramakanda –

‘The sediments vary in colour from white or light grey to dark brown and purplish red, and in texture from coarse-grained to fine grained…Arkose the main rock type is …almost granite in appearance. The large grains and the small pebbles form a framework, the intervening spaces being filled with finer grained quarts and feldspar. The grains are generally fused together by pressure and vary little cementing material is present’ (page 118 -119)

Little wonder that we see such intriguing rock formation when we travel. It also explains why there is frequently such confusion as to exactly what the formation is or when it happened. Too much has been going on for too long!! The interesting thing is that there is always a some link – however fuzzy – between what science is trying to explain and what the folk–wisdom or our traditional stories tell us – as in the case of the story the Hamuduruwo told us in Paramakanda.

After hours of traveling we were at another grate irrigation wonder of our ancients. That was the grate tank at Kantale, which was built by Kind Mahasen the grate and renovated by the Kings Agbo II and Grate Parakramabahu.

Remaining of an ancient irrigation wonder.

We turned right at Kantale to visit Seruwavila. While passing few kilometers in that road, we realized the difficulty of driving a vehicle with low ground clearance, in such a road being under constructed. Our vehicle was fully utilized & loaded. This was our annual family journey of the year 2010.

The road was under construction

Relaxing…

Wasting 3 hours at the road, we reached Seruwavila village. Seruvila is a natural lake said to be large more than 12000 acres at there. And also the temple at Seruvila was a historic place in Eastern region, affected by the terrorism during the last 30 years. According to Dhathuwansaya, the pagoda is made by the king Kawanthissa placing the bone relic of the fore head of the Loard Budhdha.

the pagoda is made by the king Kawanthissa

Ruins at Seruvila

It was almost 6.00pm when we left there for Lanka patuna. Having driving another 30 km, we reached our destination of the day. The important thing was that I got a rare experience of crossing the lagoon through the bridge destroyed at war, by my own vehicle. (Only for light vehicles of whom reserved the pilgrims rest might get the permission)

Sun set at Seruvila

I reserved the pilgrims rest at Lankapatuna over the phone. If you wish to reserve the same, use the number provided. Please note that you may have to satisfy with minimum facilities there.

Lankapatuna Viharaya :026-5676086

Day 2: Journey from Lankapatuna to Trincomalee along the shore of Koddiar bay.

Journey from Lankapatuna to Trincomalee along the shore of Koddiar bay.

We got up early and ran to the beach before the sunrise. But we missed that nice view because of the dam clouds gathered at the eastern horizon. We visited the temple when the sun was raised. This place was identified as the ancient port known as “Lankapattana” where the prince Dhantha & Princes Hemamala landed with the sacred tooth relic.

we missed that nice view because of the clouds gathered at the eastern horizon

pagoda at Lankapatuna was built recently on the same base of the ancient one

Lankapatuna viharaya is located on a point and being surrounded by the sea and the lagoon. This beach is identified as one of the most beautiful beaches in eastern coast such as Nilaveli. How ever this place had been used by LTTE as their base for 30 years. The ancient pagoda & many of other ruins had been destroyed by them. The pagoda at Lankapatuna was built recently on the same base of the ancient one.

the bridge destroyed during the war

The road from Lankapatuna to Thoppur was a gravel one built by the LTTE. Having heard the same, we decided to reach Muthur via Thoppur. That decision gave us the opportunity to visit to the black beach. Due to the presence of mineral sand, the sea shore was completely black. Like as Pulmudei, weight of the sand was extremely high.

The gravel road to Thoppur ran in between the Sea & the lagoon was built by the LTTE.

That decision gave us the opportunity to visit to the black beach

Due to the presence of mineral sand, the sea shore was completely black

Until we met the A15 ( Baticaloa – Trinco road), I was creasy on the road condition and as well as finding directions. There were no people at all for asking directions. When ever we met someone, there was a language barrier.

Mutur is rather populated town located in the southern edge of the Koddiar bay. There is a passenger ship service in between Mutur & Trincomalee. ( That is also a very nice experience one can have ). Since even light vehicles were not transported by the ship, we had to continue our journey through A15, along the shore of the Koddiar bay. Believe me, that part of A15 road was a gravel road consisting three ferries (available only in day times) before you meet Kinnia, where the longest bridge of srilanka was. Just after the second ferry, the road was loosed sandy one for a distance of more than 100m. That was a big barrier for non 4×4 vehicles.

First ferry you meet between Muttur & Trinco	Joy of the new experience
Second Ferry & the lagoon	Believe me, that part of A15 road was a gravel road consisting three ferries (available only in day times)

A typical bullock at the area ( those bulls are known as Kinnia bulls )

From Kinnia onwards, the road was well maintained. It was nearly 3.00pm when we reached Trincomalee. Then we realized that our vehicle with poor ground clearance had consumed 5 hours to travel 60km in that poor roads.

Kinnia bridge - the longest in Sri lanka

In the next hour we were at the beach of Nilaweli. Unpacking our baggage at the annex we rented, we had hours of grate bath at the calm sea in the moon light.

Day3: Exploring Trincomalee.

Mr. Kumar, the landlord of our annex, informed us to use the beach where the “Nilaveli beach hotel” was located to get a boat to visit Pigeon Island. Since it was the nearest beach to the pigeon island; the sanctuary, we were offered rather low rate for the boat.(1500/=)

Pigeon Island is visible in distance to the Nilaweli beach	Nilaweli beach
Ready to go..	Coral beach at the pigeon island

Natural swimming pool at the pigeon island

It was almost 1.00pm when we reached Trincomalle. Having a vegetarian lunch there, we went to the Kovil of Koneshwarm in the fort Frederick. It was one of the four major kovils on god Shiva in Srilanka.

Main entrance to the fort Frederick

Inside of the kovil

The hot water wells at Kannia were our final travel location (Not Kinina). Though we were not prepared for bathing, we had a bucket of hot water bathing in each.

had a bucket of hot water bathing in each

Sunset at Kantale tank

We started our trip from Colombo at about 5 a.m. And we came to Kandy at about 8 a.m. We had our breakfast from a little restaurant but to be honest it was a horrible meal. After that we got in to a bus which goes on the rout ” Kandy – Udu Dumbara”. Also you can go to Hunnasgiriya by a “Mahiyangana” bus. we were in Hunnasgiriya when it was 12.30 p.m. We had our lunch there. It was awesome. They have two vans which go to Meemure everyday. only two vans. They come to Hunnasgiriya in the morning and leave at about 1.30. So we got in to one of those vans.

We stopped in “Loolwatte” for a break..to have a plain tea and stuff. .

After 15 minutes we started our van ride again. Ride was very difficult. But the landscape down the mountain was unbelievable. We were ascending the Knuckles mountain range.
But unfortunately we couldn’t take any photos due to our difficult van ride.

Two of my Friends having a break after a tiring van ride	Sun.....above the top of the mountain
The van that drove us to the village	Lake Gala.....stands above the village

We came to the village after 3 hours, leaving Hunnasgiriya. the 1st thing we saw after we got out of the van, was the marvelous view of the mountain called “Lake Gala”. The villagers of Meemure were so helpful and friendly. One of them agreed to show us a good place to setup camp. It was near 5 p.m. so we had to hurry because we had to find a camp site before the sun set.

Going through paddy fields.

Lake Gala

We started to go in to the jungle by foot.

Paddy fields

Speaking of paddy fields here, Villagers don’t have any kind of machines. They use buffaloes and “Nagula” for there work. Most of the time they use natural fertilizers.

Knuckles mountain range

The villager who helped us to find a good camp site

Just WOW!!!!

We got in to the jungle when it was 5.30 p.m. and it was already dark. There was a river. And that villager showed us a large rock plate in the middle of the river. We brought a big tent and that rock was perfect size for it. It was very dark when we finished setting up camp. While we were doing it, we realized that we’d lost our rain cover for the tent. In the bus maybe. But the thing is….we had no rain cover .

Setting up camp....

It's done

After completing the setting up we had a bath in the river….Wow.it was awesome.. After the sun set it was just thick black all around us. We set up camp fire and had dinner. And went to sleep because it was a very tiring day.

Flowing river next to the tent

Following morning was so beautiful and that beauty can’t be explained by words. We woke up and started to feel fresh air and the serenity of the wilderness. No chaotic noises and dusty wind. No thousands of people running crazy to find money. Just the noise of the flowing river which never breaks the tranquility of the wild.

In the morning...I opened my eyes and...this is the 1st thing I saw	Hypnotized by the magic of nature
Early in the morning	It was a beautiful sunny morning

Crystal clear water

Water was very clear. But we couldn’t risk anything. Because we were really away from a good medical assistance. So we boiled river water for drinking purpose.

Crystal clear water

A view of out tent from up river

Walking in to the jungle

After having breakfast we went for a hike in the forest. It was a thick, huge forest with beauty. There were trails in the jungle. So it was not much difficult.

A waterfall we found in the forest	A deep pool?
Seen in the forest	A huge tree
A computer mouse???	Abandoned paddy fields in the middle of the jungle.

We walked few kilometers and we came in to large area of abandoned paddy fields. We wondered how these villagers carry their crops from here to the village…in the real sense of the word, their life is difficult.

Abandoned paddy fields in the middle of the jungle.	Knuckles mountains
A natural pond made by a small water stream	Lunch................lunch..........lunch.............

We walked some more kilometers in to the jungle and found a very beautiful place for lunch. We stopped there and prepared our lunch with the help of out kerosene cooker. After having lunch we turned back. We walked approximately 10 kms.

Another water stream we found in the forest	Afternoon views
View of the mountains in the eve.	Back to the village

We came back to the village on that evening as we had to make some telephone calls to our parents. As I mentioned above, no network coverage for any mobile service. Only lankabell works here.

Nice door handle......clever hah!!!

That night we set up a good campfire.

We came back from the village and set up camp fire. It was on another rock plate in front of the tent. Felt like we live in an island. We had dinner. spent a lot of time in that night by watching starts, sitting on the rock among the darkness while listening to the symphony orchestra of the nature.

A damselfly

Same view from up river but with cloudy skies

Following day we were not that lucky. Sky was full dark of clouds. We were pretty upset as we didn’t have a rain cover.

After the rain...soaked in wet....

After we finished cooking our lunch it rained that day. A heavy rain. We couldn’t have our lunch at that moment. So we covered our food pots . We were almost drowned. As soon as the rain stopped for a while we folded our tent and got out of the river because there could be flash floods due to the heavy rain. we packed our bags and kept it under a big rock in order to protect them from the rain. After finishing it we had our lunch in the rain. What a lunch…it was more a soup!! We couldn’t take any snaps due to the rain.

ඇවිද්ද පය දහස් වටී ... සෙරෙප්පු දෙක

A new friend!!!!

We came back to the village in the afternoon. And waited few hours in a shelter next to a shop in the village till our clothes get dried. We got two mats from the shop and went to an abandoned kitchen in the village temple. There no one in the temple as well. And we found a new friend. A dog got very friendly with one of my friends and came in to that kitchen where we slept.

Fire made that rainy night comfortable

There were plenty of dried wood in that kitchen. So we could make a good fire. We had dinner and went to sleep as we had to wake up early in the morning. The van leaves at 5.30 a.m. from Meemure. We woke up @ 4 a.m. and got ready. It was still raining. A drizzling actually. We had to walk to the van about 1km. And that dog spent the night with us , had dinner and followed us till we got in to the van. It was 2.30 p.m. when we got to Pettah. Last day was rainy and muddy, cold……..But still worth it.

The route from Ihala-Maliboda Town to Ali-Hatha

I was planning to go this trip since last year (2009) December, but due to heavy rainy weather condition at that time I was unable to achieve that. Since this year began with dry weather season I arranged my trip schedule on first week of February. One of my close friends joined into this trip and he has a Three-wheeler, so till that Ihala-Maliboda town we traveled by his Three-wheeler. But if you are planning to take public transport it’s better to start your journey as soon as early morning. If you can be there at Avissawella around 5.45 A.M there is a bus available from Avissawella to Deraniyagala at 6.00 A.M. This bus reaches to Deraniyagala around 7.20 A.M. Then from there one bus is available at 7.45 A.M to Ihala-Maliboda. It will reach to Ihala-Maliboda time between 8.45 to 9.00 A.M.

We reached to Ihala-Maliboda (Uda Maliboda) town around 11 A.M. (we were so late) then we traveled from there to Samupakara Junction (2 Km). After that we were seeking a guide for our journey, finally we met a person call “Gamini Ayya” (The person who has given his guidance to Rupavihini Sarisara team when they were there). When we were speaking to him, he mentioned that he was unable to join with us due his busy work schedule, but instead of himself he introduced two marvelous persons call “Gopal” and “Kalu Ayya” to take us this journey. I should say because of these two guys’ guidance and help we went till up to the top water fall (seventh one) if they were not there with us, definitely we were going to be ruinED. So please make sure to have a good guidance during this journey.

On our way to Ihala-Maliboda

Group of women plucking tea leaves

Naya Ganga - Sapatthu Palama

At Maliboda Junction

View of Seven water falls from Ihala- Maliboda

It was around 1.00 P.M when we were starting our journey. We were getting late, but our plan was to stay first day night in the forest, so that our target was set to visit first two water falls during the first day then go as long as we can and have a camp.

View of first and second water falls

Due to our busy time schedule, we did not go to bottom level of these water falls to visit them very closely, but if you want, it does not matter there is a path available to go and visit these water falls closely from “Samupakara junction” call “Halaturakele” (see the map provided). Close view pictures of these two water falls can find in this trip report

After visiting first and second water falls we entered into the forest and walk till we found a good place to get access “Naya Ganga” water stream, because to visit rest of five water falls we had to walk to upwards through the stream. This stage was very risky, dangerous and consumed so much time. We encountered two places that are very difficult to pass due to its very deep and narrow slopes and there were not any other alternative routes to avoid those obstacles. It was around 6.00 P.M finally when we found a good place to have a night camp in our first day.

Route to get access to entering point of the forest

We are entering into the forest

Trees in the forest

The place we got access to “Naya Ganga” water stream after walking through the forest.

Second day morning, around 6.00 A.M. still sunlight hasn’t fallen into the forest, we are preparing meals for our breakfast, because we have to leave early morning. It was a windy and damn cold night.

Around 7.00 A.M. we are getting ready to start second day of our journey.

From here on wards again we had to enter into the forest, because it was very difficult to walk upwards through the stream. After we walked through the forest nearly 2 Km Parallel to the water stream we could find the third water fall.

Third water fall with morning sunrise

From there onwards again we began to walk through the water stream to hunt rest of four water falls. It wasn’t too much difficult to reach other remaining four water falls since they locate close to each other (less than 1 Km distance between each of water falls).

Fourth water fall

We encountered this small cascade between fourth and fifth water falls

Nice view of Basnagala area

How long did it take for us to come here?

Our journey along the water stream

Having some fresh water

Another small cascade we encountered near by fifth water fall. (Find the hidden Lion head in this picture if you can!)

Fifth water fall

Another view of fifth water fall

Finally we are at trail end (Sixth and Seventh water falls)

Butterflies coming from Siri Pada Adaviya

Having little rest at trail end

Wide view at the top

There is a path available through the forest to return back to the start point that you can go by avoiding water stream, you can directly get access that path from top (beside Sixth and Seventh water falls). No need to take same route (through water stream) to get access the start point that you have came. It will be too risky to take the original path to go downwards.

I would like to thanks our two guides “Gopal” and “Kalu Ayya” who gave remarkable help to us to make success this journey. I believe this information would be helpful for people who are planning and willing to go to visit Ali-Hatha (seven water falls). I have a kind request from those people; you may go, visit these places and enjoy your self, but please do respect to these places and keep it for our future generations

Outward bound:
6.05 am train from Colombo Fort. A long long train which seemed to be going everywhere – Anuradhapura, Pollonaruwa, Batticaloa, Trincomalee…so make sure you sit in the correct carriage or your destination may change!

Real great fun was watching the train ‘change tracks’ at the Polgahawela, Mahawa, etc.

After the Anuradhapura carriages were detached, we suddenly found ourselves at the end of the train rather than the middle …!

At Gal Oya junction, we parted company with the passengers (and their food!) who were going on to Pollonaruwa and Batticaloa. For the last stretch of the journey, Air Force and Civil Defense soldiers travelled with us keeping a sharp eye out… no tension and quite friendly. Still it reminded us how recently this was a rather dangerous route to take. The track after Habarana is dead straight and with jungle on either side.

we suddenly found ourselves at the end of the train rather than the middle …!

Air Force and Civil Defense soldiers travelled with us keeping a sharp eye out

Even with all that, a few unauthorized travelers tried to sneak in!!

Alle – Kanthale Road:
With the van shutters down, when the dust was clinging to our eye lashes I was reminded of the adventures in this area are described in the book ‘Somawathiya wane divi mada’.

It’s flat open country side with paddy fields, water ways and bird life. Seems there are still some migratory birds left. Did not manage any good photos of birds, but this will give you an ideas of how many there were at the water holes.

This kind of carts are apparently typically used by the Muslim and Tamil communities in the East and are supposed to be easy to maneuver over sandy and uneven terrain, as well as being a very ‘silent’ vehicle, but the weight to the animal is greater.

this will give you an ideas of how many there were at the water holes

This kind of carts are apparently typically used by the Muslim and Tamil communities in the East

Mavil Aru:
We crossed the now so famous river, if you want to see THE sorowva you apparently need to have a hardy vehicle or walk. We made do with watching the effort it takes to open even a well functioning anicut (? Is that what a sorowwa is called in English?).

The Mavil Aru war memorial is just by the road, and is here reflected in the water

The Mavil Aru war memorial is here reflected in the water

Seruwila Temple:

The approach is past a wawe, excellent place to explore – birds, flowers were in plenty.

Seruwila Temple as seen over the lake

Nelum covered Ganthalawa village tank

I tend to think of the over size nelum as ‘Bangkok Lotus’ but seems it common in this area.

In addition to the main Dagaba, there is a lot to take in. Take a look at the archaeological museum which few people seem to know exists. Some stunning artifacts. There seems to be some discussion as to whether this is a Buddha statue, if so, possibly Mahayana, or if it is a Jain statue. There was no one there to explain we relied on a book we had (PL Sirisena’s, book no. 1 in the above list) for information. If you go there count the different number of heads on the Naga figures, some are 7 some are 9, some are less.

In addition to the main Dagaba, there is a lot to take in

Is this a Buddha statue, if so, possibly Mahayana, or if it is a Jain statue

Road to Echchanpattu:

More like a ‘take it if you dare’ track across the sand. As the Mahawali estuary spreads itself, its hard to say what is the sea, what is the river. The sheer size of the Mahawali delta and the flood plains really hits you. We took this ‘road’ to connect from Seruvila to Echchanpattu to go to Lanka Patuna. I strongly suggest that if you decide to take this route, you have a good vehicle – or even more important a confident and skilled driver, as well as a sense of direction/ GPS/map/information. Its not a huge distance, but still has the potential to be troublesome.

The sheer size of the Mahawali delta and the flood plains really hits you

‘take it if you dare’ track across the sand

Lanka Patuna:

So follow up of my question from the Yala beach (why is the sand red? )

why is the sand so black? What makes is glisten so much? Note the little stars of light in the photo.

And ….why are there so many corals (not sure of what you call these individual ‘rocks’ of coral) washed up in the sand? Or is it that we noticed them due to the contrasting black of the sand. I do hope people will not feel the urge to pick them up and take them home. If so the beach will soon be plain black.

why are there so many corals

is it that we noticed them due to the contrasting black of the sand

I do hope people will not feel the urge to pick them up and take them home

This is an unbelievably lovely stretch of beach.
The sea all sorts of shades of green and blue, the beach yellow, black, the white corals, and real dry zone vegetation – lots of cactus.

Cactus growing in profusion on the beach

The black and yellow of the beach merge with the shades of blue and turquoise of the water and the white of the surf and corals.

I think we saw this beach because we took that ‘sand road’, most people seem to approach Lanka Patuna from South of the bridge, we arrived north of it.

The vehicles are parked on the southern side (top end of the picture) and you walk across, we arrived from the north (right corner of the picture).

Fishing at the ‘moya kate’…The net is laid in a spiral using the sticks, as the water rises the fish will get caught in the maze, all the fisherman has to do is to scoop them up as the water recedes. True it makes a nice picture (blue, white, green and brown..even the sarong and boats!), but… I’d hate to be a fish.

Below is the route we took from Seruvila to Lanka Patuna. I have combined the 1:50,000 sheets no. 28 (Trinco) and no. 33 (Kathiraveli). I am not sure if the line of brown arrows I have drawn to show the route around Ullackali Lagoon is clear. You simply – or not so simply! – go around it. The damaged bridge is just where the two maps meet above ( once again the brown text might not be clear). Verual and the road to Batti is going south.

[Mao coming Soon!]

Verugal, yet another estuary of the Mahawali delta:

Seems very soon there will be no more ferry’s along the east coast. The bridge here is almost complete, construction vehicles already travelling on it. Its certainly a good thing for those who live in the area, and for travelers in a hurry. But …a bit of excitement of travel taken away…

very soon there will be no more ferry’s along the east coast

Lots of interesting statues in this historical kovila by the river

And a few more photos of the rest of the days:

Jelly fish: I’ve seen jelly fish only twice and both in Trinco. Last time they were small and pinkish. Very different to this huge blue ‘mushroom’ .. Would love to have a bit of info on this…?

Girihandu Saye: Its such a lovely spot, in the middle of the forest so near the sea. Must be stunning at sun rise and sun set. Its possible to stay the night here at the visharama shalawa. There is a young monk who looks after the place, and can tell you lots of interesting stories…we forgot to take any pirikara with us and regretted it.

Gal Palama at Girihandu Saya – I’ve started getting a fetish for Gal Palam. Been to the 2 in A’pura and one in Mahakandarawa. I heard there is one in a place called Sudarshanagama in the Kakirawa area but we could not locate it. Any one has a clue?

I’ve seen jelly fish only twice and both in Trinco

Gal Palama at Girihandu Saya

Sea and vatadage of Girihandu Saya

There is a stunning photo in the Studio Times book ‘Eloquence in Stone’ of a place called Nagathambarani – Naga curved on rock – just beyond Girihandu Saye in Thiriyaya. Seems like an interesting place to explore. I saw it only after we returned. So, got to go again!!!

We leave Colombo by hired van at around 7AM and able to reach Bambarakanda rest at around 1PM. After having lunch we started to climb. We go alone the road heading to top of Bambarakanda falls. The road goes through the Udaweriya tea state.

Bambarakanda falls	Climbing up
Getting closer to top of Bambarakanda falls	Path we came

Before getting dark we were able to reach near the devil’s staircase. On a side of a road in a level surface we were able to put up our two tents. It’s a beautiful full moon poya day. We can clearly see the bright stars all over the sky.

Bright full moon

Our Tents - Camping near Devil's staircase

Next day morning we get up before sunrise to see the beauty of the surrounding area. The road we came leads to the Ohiya. But our objective is to reach Horton Plains by shortest path. From there onwards we go through foot paths on tea plantain and able to reach the road in-between Ohiya entrance and Far Inn. On the way we cook some noodles using small gas cooker and had our lunch.

Going through foot paths on tea plantain	Going through foot paths on tea plantation
At last reached the Ohiya - Pattipola road	A Curious by stander

At about 5PM we were able to reach our camp site inside the Horton Plains (Camp Site 2). And that night is a very cold sleepless night. And next day morning we were very tired after long journey and had some rest. For that day we have booked the Mahaeliya bungalow. In the afternoon we had a cool bath from one of the water streams.

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Next day morning we started to climb down to Dayagama. There’s a road leads to Dayagama just before reaching Far Inn from Pattipola side. This road is not much scene till you reach the border of Horton Plains. In the border there’s a kovil. After that it’s a tea plantation. We had called the van to come there but road conditions are too bad. Therefore we had to walk some more kilometers. After few kilometers there’s a waterfall named Agra falls. We had a cool bath from there. At last we were able to catch the van and came home.

Kovil near border of Horton Plains

Agra falls