This was a quick family trip done with least planning on the insistence of my M-I-L (you know how they are has to be done then and there) we had an accidental discovery with the help of a local guide.

The trip started from Colombo early around 5AM and we took the route above stopping for breakfast at the Kurunegala rest house, place was not well maintained and had lost its old splendor. Staff was friendly. Arrived in Anuradhapura around noon, was a little hard to find the place as I had not been in a’pura for a long time. Settled in and the evening was the usual pilgrimage to Sri Maha Bodhi, Ruwanweliseya etc. The food, cooked by the owner’s mom was really good and the staff was very helpful. They even cooked the kiribath for the early morning offering to the Srimahabodhi.

Saw many birds in and around the lake such as the pheasant tailed jacana, purple swamp hen, Asian paradise flycatcher, Brahmini kite, Black hooded oriole, purple heron, white throated kingfisher, blue tailed bee-eaters, golden fronted leaf birds and common moorhen to name a few.

We left after breakfast around 10 heading to the other sites Samadhi Statue, Abhayagiriya, etc.

Now here the reason to post this report, a local boy at Isurumuniya who said he was a guide convinced my sister in law that we must see a little visited archaeological site next to the car park. We reluctantly agreed and headed there with him, access to this place had been overgrown with scrub and the civil defense force staff was clearing the area as we visited. The place is “රන්මසු උයන” (Ranmasu Uyana) This had been built in the 10th century according “වෙස්සගිරිය” (vessagiriya) inscription of Mahinda IV this is the place where Prince Saliya (son of King Dutugmunu) met Asokamala. This was their royal baths with separate chambers for the royals.

A short distance away behind ponds was the real find it is a Stargate an inscription of about 3½’ x 4’ on a stone slab, apparently created by intelligent aliens and if one mastered the symbols and signs this is a kind of an entrance for time/space travel, the Wikipedia explains this as “Stargate productions center on the premise of a “Stargate”, a ring-shaped device that creates a wormhole enabling personal transportation to complementary devices located cosmic distances away.” Similar ones are found in Egypt and Peru according to Anura Milinda, our guide.

The signboard

One of the large ponds

Private pond and rest room

Rock carving of bathing elephants

The Stargate

The canter of Stargate

A conch shell on the outer rim

This is a very interesting place and is calm and quiet on the bank of the “තිසාවැව” Thisa-wewa. Ideal for meditation and Anura Milinda is quite knowledgeable having guided many visitors from all over the world, he has many theories and it is interesting to listen to him.

So next time you all are in Anuradhapura and visiting Isurumuniya, and have an extra half hour to spare stroll over to Ranmasu uyana and the Stargate, if you can’t find it call Anura Milinda on 071-702-0655. He will be happy to oblige and take you around, and explain the hydraulic workings of the Goldfish ponds and the Stargate theories.

This was a trip that we had planned for quite some time but we had to abandon the trip on many previous days because of the weather.

The route was from Galle to Lankagama via Wanduramba, Udugama and Neluwa. The road conditions up to Neluwa was good but after that the road was extremely narrow and in many areas was in pretty abd shape. A special note is that the bridge over the Gin ganga is very narrow. If your vehicle is wide, you should use the route via Kosmulla from Neluwa. This route joins the shorter route just after the bridge. All in all it took about 2-2.5 hours to get to Lankagama from Galle.

Brahmana ella from Road

Brahmana ella

At Lankagama there are 5 main waterfalls and many smaller cascades. The largest of them is Brahmana ella. This is clearly visible from the road at Lankagama. You have to walk through the jungle to see the other waterfalls.

A small cascade	Thattu ella
Thattu ella	On the way to Duvili ella

Thattu ella is a smallish waterfall consisting of 2 steps. Hence the name. Above Thattu Ella is Dhuvili ella and is probably the most beautiful of the waterfalls at Lankagama.

Duvili ella	Duvili ella
Near duvili ella	Near gal oruwa ella
Gal oruwa ella. It’s very difficult to get a good shot	Gal oruwa ella
.

The other 2 waterfalls should be visited from a different route. Gal Oruwa ella is very unique. It falls through a very narrow gorge and is quite dangerous (watch your step although there is a railing)

Above Gal oruwa ella is the Uran wetuna ella. This has multiple cascades and it’s possible to climb a certain distance by the side of the waterfall.

Uran wetuna ella	.
Uran wetuna ella	.
Uppermost cascade of uran wetuna ella	Finding your way is pretty easy because there are signposts along the way with distances.
Pool near the road

It has been many years since I last visited this isolated corner of Siharaja. This time the trip was meant to be more of a family outing. Walking the Dhoovili Ella trail was also in cards.

We left home at around 7.30 in the morning in two vehicles. We took the A4 to Pelmadulla and then A17 from Madampe and reached Suriyakanda by 1.00 p.m. At Suriyakanda we bought some vegetables to complete the rations we were carrying for the next two days. Suriyakanda is a fairly small town with a limited number of shops. It is the heighest town in the scenic Madampe-Deniyaya-Galle Highway (A17) (From Madampe to Deniyaya, this is probably the narrowest A grade road in Srilanka )

After topping up provisions, the next task was to find a place to safely park the car. The path to Morningside forest camp from Suriyakanda is in pretty bad shape. It is not safe to drive anything other than a proper 4WD on that route. I had got several useful contacts of places to leave the car from the forum but a helpful local person suggested that we speak to the chief monk of the temple situated right in the middle of this small town. The chief monk kindly allowed us to park the car in the temple premises.

Having sorted out parking, the next big task was to load 10 adults, 2 kids, bags and rations, all in to the double cab which had the task of tackling 6+km of rough roads to elevate us 250+m to The Morningside forest camp.

Breakfast under a Giant "Mara" tree, past Hanwella on A4	The only other stop before Suriyakanda - a tiny tea shop at Sannasgama, just before Pelmadulla
At Suriyakanda - Its 116km to Galle via Deniyaya from here	Topping up rations - There is always room for some bites and sweets!
Where we Parked the Car	Loading the cab - Compression ratio is 2 to 1!

With the double cab fully loaded, we headed towards Galle on A17. In Less than 1km from Suriyakanda town, we reached the estate road on the right hand side, going uphills through the tea bushes. Conditions of the jeep track was as expected. It had been badly washed away and did not appear to have been repaired in years. Slowly but steadily the poor machine started hauling all of us uphills.

There is approximately 6.5km to the forest camp from the A17 turn off. The condition of the road was worst in the first three kilometers where the ascend was also steep. Once climbed up, the track became somewhat easier than before. All together we spent just under two hours to reach the Forest camp from Suriyakanda town.

At the bungalow we met Thilakasiri; the long standing forest department caretaker of the Morningside bungalow.

The jeep track to Morningside branching off from the A17

Bad roads and steep ascend made it a time consuming task

Scenery on the way - Unfortunately it was gloomy and overcast

After the first 3km, the conditions were better

Last stretch of road as seen from the Bungalow

Thilakasiri the friendly Bungalow keeper who has been stationed at Mornigside for over a decade!

The rest of the day was spent in the bungalow. Weather was gloomy throughout. I still remember the colorful sunset that one can witness from behind the bungalow when the conditions are right. This time, we had no luck

File Photo - Sunset as seen from behind the bungalow

File Photo - Conditions were not right this time; both afternoons we spent there were gloomy and boring. Did not come even close to this

On the following morning; we woke up early to exepreince the misty mornings which made English planters name this area “Mornigside”. It was truly a misty morning

Sunrise through the misty atmosphere

The mist was so thick that it never let the sunrays to break in; not for the whole day!

View of forest (regrown) and the distant mountains; the time was 6.30 in the morning

One of the interesting hikes one can do from Morningside forest bungalow is the hike to the Dhuwili Ella falls. This is the least visited out of the four Dhoowili Ella falls in Sinharaja. I had some GPS points of this trail from a previous visit but I couldn’t locate the file in my computer before trip (I later found them and posted in the thread – Dhoovili Ella Trail – Sinharaja, MornigSide ). Thilakasiri did not encourage us to take the trail sigthing that no one has walked that for a long time and the trail may not be visible now. Without Navigation aid; we did not want to take a risk. So we gave up the plan of mapping the trail and decided to explore the Morningside estate and pay a visit to the natural pool to have a cool dip.

To reach the natural pool; one has to travel further on the jeep track without turing in to the forest bungalow to reach the Morningside Estate. Inside the estate, you can drive up to the old estate bungalow (1.8km from the forest bungalow). Beyond the old bungalow the jeep track continues towards Ittakanda where it rejoins the A17 but the road is not open for vehicles as it is a private road. You have to walk another 1km along this jeep track before turning right and walk in the jungle for another 400m to reach the Pool. (Check the trail map posted in – Morningside – Access Roads, Trails and Points of Interest). This natural pool is a nice place to spend sometime; relax and have a cool dip.

From the forest bungalow up to the Morningside estate the jeep track is not frequently used but is ok for a 4WD.

Some beauties seen on the way

Morningside Estate - Directions to the Old Bungalow	The Lower Pool
Mini waterfalls	A refreshing Bath for grand parents and play time for kids!

After spending couple of hours at the pool we returned to the bungalow just in time to avoid getting caught in the thunderstorm that followed. After a late lunch it was time for a good sleep.

On the third and final day of the trip; the weather changed dramatically. The sun broke out early in the day and chased away the mist. The surrounding looked so fresh and the forest had suddenly bounced back to life from the long sleep. Spider webs were glistinng all over the place in morning rays. It was like a completely different world all together

6.30 in the morning again; as oposed to the day before; the sun seems to have won the game and cleared the mist

Rays dancing on the receding mist - it 7.00 a.m. Now

The bungalow

A glistening Spider web

...and a tiny little flower

Unfortunately we had to leave this heaven as it was our last day at Morningside. We left the bungalow at around 9.00 a.m. Back on the bumpy track the truck started crawling along, this time however due to good weather conditions we could enjoy the heavenly beauty of the surrounding mountains that we were leaving behind to go back to the boring concrete jungle!

Wow!

Leaving the Heavens Behind!

Back on A17 (Click Image to Enlarge)

We reached the temple where we parked the car; redistributed stuff and the passengers in to two vehicles and started our return journey. Instead of taking the A17 back to Madampe; we decided to proceeded to Morawaka via Deniyaya on A17 and and then took interior roads via Neluwa, Palewatta, Meegahatenna, Horawala, Matugama, Kalutara, to return home at Katubedda.

Crossing the boarder; from Sabaragamuwa province to the Southern province

A17 is qiute scenic throughout

The poor road conditions of A17 suddenly improved to this after Deniyaya

The Last "Click" of the trip; some where close to Matugama

A 3 day visit to southwestern part of Sinharaja, called morningside due to its weather is always feels like morning

March 18

Harsha and myself (iro)(left Colombo around 6.00 am by a CTB bus to Ambilipitiya (through low level road – Try to use bus through low level since it is 10 Kms shorter than high level).

We reached Rathnapura at about 8.20 am and met Kavinda (other member of the group). Then we had our breakfast and we bought some rice. kavinda already bought other stuff for cooking.

We missed 9.30 bus to Deniyaya, so we got into Rakwana bus at 9.50am. (Rakwana buses are very frequent, once every 20 minutes or so). Once we reached Rakwana we were able to catch 9.30 bus we missed. We got off from the bus from Kadamuduna, since we want to go Suriyakanda peak, where Rupawahini, ITN and Telecom tower are located. You don’t need permission to go up there. You can observe some distance from the peak. It is 4 km up to the peak from the Kadamuduna. Normally three wheeler would cost around Rs.250 up and down.

Suriyakanda Telecom tower

We met good person who worked for telecom and part time driving a three wheeler called Wijesiri. We hired him up to the peak and on the way we went to “Sinharaja Aranyaya” temple. They are building a big statue of lord Buddha. From that point you could observe Rakwana town, which is difficult to observe from Suriyakanda peak.

Then came back to Kadamuduna and travelled few hundred meters towards Rakwana to reach nice simple restaurant as we were guided by Mr.Wijesiri. There we had our lunch. Then we travelled to starting point of our hike. On the way we came to Suriyakanda town. There was a nice cooperative shop.

There are 2 roads to enter the Morningside forest bungalow. Check the google earth .kmz file attached above. The official route is about 2 Kms from Suriyakanda town. Alternate route through Morningside estate is about 7Kms from Suriyakanda town. We choose official track to Bungalow, which is by far the most beautiful track.

At about 3.20pm, we came to the starting point of our hike. There was a name plate mentioned 7Kms to Morningside Bungalow. We gave Rs.1000 Mr. Wijesiri to full journey from Kadamuduna, Suriyakanda peak, Sinharaja Aranyaya, restaurant and finally to starting point. (He asked for less, but we gave 1000 since we felt it was worthy than that- even he worked as our guide also at sometimes – He is a nice person, if you can hire him).

After all preparations we started our hike around 3.20 pm. Track was a relatively easy one to hike and it could be easily tackled by any 4wd vehicle. Only tricky thing is navigation. There aren’t any road marks to the way to forest bungalow. Because there roads to tea estate also.

From first major Y junction, turn to right, i.e. ascending road. Other road will descend to tea estate.

Then there was a L bend to right (6°25’31.91″N, 80°36’47.13″E) you can identify this place easily since there was house near the bend. There was a short cut (foot path) which can save you 300m. But it was a 30m 45degree climb.

After those junctions the road was heavenly. In this section you have to tackle little gradient, the road is beautiful and misty. This is the last place you can make a phone call.

If weather is dry you may encounter little resistance from leeches. But if it rains, they will be there in thousands. My two friends ignored this fact purposely and paid a big penalty.

Finally there was a T junction ( 6°24’28.03″N, 80°36’37.35″E) to tackle with.

Since I was wearing leech socks, I was hardly intact by leeches. I found only 2 leeches in my belly near hip belt of the pack. But nearly few dozens of them were found outside of my boots and leech socks. But no one was able to break through my defense.

Once we arrived at bungalow time is around 6.20pm. We had to knock the door of the bungalow to open the doors. Only one bungalow keeper was available at that time. He seems to be bit unfriendly.

View from bungalow at 6.45 pm

Day2 – March 19

View from the bungalow

Second day we planned to observe Duwili fall. But we were told that this track has very popular for its high density of leeches. Since my friends were not equipped with leech socks, we had to give it up. So we planned to relax full day.

There are few shallow streams available to bath.

There are few shallow streams available to bath

Site A- Site is located only about 50ft away from bungalow through a foot path. Shallow and little flow of water. But this area could get muddy. Not very pleasing place to bath.

Site B – Is located on the way between T junction and bungalow. Not very pleasant place.

Site C – This little waterfall is located left of the road to Morningside estate. Not much water available, but seems to be ok under the circumstances.

Waterfall at Site C

In the afternoon bungalow keepers switched. Second one named Thilakasiri seems to be nice person and he had more than 15 years of experience according to himself. He had good knowledge about this area.

Afternoon we spent time by reading books, discussing with bungalow keeper and just relaxing.

Day3 – March 20

Morning time is relatively misty. Kavinda took nice photos.

We left the bungalow at about 9am. We decided to alternate route to the main road. So we hiked through Morningside estate. This is motorable road. But there are 2 issues with this.

1. Bad road condition
2. Road is normally closed, prior permission from tea estate is required to open the gate.

But you could hike through it without issue. Also motorbikes are also using this road (They use the gap between gate and column)

We reached the road at about 11 am. After 2 hours we arrived to Ratnapura.

Note

#Bungalow – Located in nice place. Built in 1987, if my memory is correct. They got solar power 12V supply, but it is not possible to charge your batteries. Toilets are just ok. There are 2 rooms consisting bunk beds (6 beds and 4 beds). Beds aren’t in very good shape. They look ancient and curved mattresses.

Bungalow

Lobby

#Bungalow keepers.

Two bungalow keepers. First one lacked knowledge about area. The second one, Thilakasiri, was friendly knowledgeable

Thilakasiri. Typical friendly knowledgeable bungalow keeper

# Leech socks – Must wear these with some sort of ankle boots. Specially after a rain or wet conditions leeches is a real problem. If you plan to pay a visit to Duwil fall or to rain forest you must wear these.

Myself wearing leech socks with boots – no problems with leeches

#Rain Cover – Smart accessory when you are in rainy season or rain forest. This will keep your pack dry.

Kavinda’s pack with its rain cover – custom made one

# Bus time table – Provided by Ratnapura depot

Ratnapura – Deniyaya

7.45am, 8.40am (Private), 9.30am, 12pm, 1.30pm, 2.45pm, 4.05pm

Telephone of Rathnapura depot – 0452222281

This tour/pilgrim is blessed by God Kataragama. I thought to write this report to update the people who really want to go there with respect of god and their beliefs. Please don’t go just for fun

This was going to be some of the hardest and in some places the scariest riding I’d ever done.

If I explain to you the very little I know about the devalaya, this place is considered very sacred by devotees of God Katharagama . They believe that the God’s present staying place is the ‘Maha Siyambalawa Devalaya’ (Kebaliththa). I’m too believe that without any doubt. There are so many ‘Haskam’ which I cannot explain here. People at Kotiyagala respect this place very strongly and they are even scared to deal with this place. So I listened to their word and prepared my self as per the customs which they told that we have to follow.

I have visited the devalaya two times before and this time I took the leadership and guided the others. So I wanted to go on my bike and the others too agreed with me. Road conditions are very hard to ride. Up and down, we did 70 km from Kotiyagala. It was very hard, muddy and very challenging track. Mostly large tractors are required to go there. But we really enjoyed the adventure ride.

Let me tell you from the beginning. I was waiting from last November (2010) for normal weather conditions. One of my friends at Kotiyagala informed me that mid March 2011 would be ideal for the ride. So the tree of us prepared ourselves for seven days with having only vegetarian food and prepared our bike for the long and hard journey. Most suitable bikes are trail (on/off) dual sport bikes. But unfortunately Danu’s NX developed a starting problem. So we took one Indian Pulsar 200. We had big problems with it when it came to handling in jungle & mud.

Day 1 (18th Friday night): We start from Makola at 10:00 pm in three bikes (Me, Dinna, Danu) and straight a way went to Diyaluma falls in Koslanda at 1:00am and we had our dinner; what we took from our home. It was a very nice experience in the moon light. Nobody at the road and only the sound & mist of Diyaluma falls. Dinna arranged his camp light fixed on his bike.

Danu & Dinna at Diyaluma fall

We did rest some time in the cool breeze with some chit chat regarding the way we came. After our dinner we headed out again at 3:00 am and it was very cold and misty. After Wellawaya, road condition was superb and we rode like fast & furious. Around 4:30 am we came to Monaragala for fuel and to refresh ourselves. Full tanked our babies and took some extra fuel in the jerry cans.

Faithful buddies…even though iron

Big Boss of Monaragala - Colombo came for juice

After the fuel load Dinna’s TW200 needed to adjust the chain. We had some packing problems in Danu’s Pulsar too. So took much time to reach Kotiyagal at 8:00 am of next day.

Kotiyagala Police post with my friend

Day 2 (19th Saturday) – My friend introduced his pal to me and said that he will also join us. We gave Petrol for him and prepared our bikes for the jungle track. We removed the side mirrors, our jackets, helmets and other road gear.

We started the holy journey with prayers for the God’s blessing. My friends too had prepared for the tour with having only veggies and following other customs. They too were scared to make it a fun trip and all of us kept trust on the faith. Generally it said that you should be careful with your words (කට ඉස්සර කරගන්න එපා!). Therefore our target was to do the Pooja and only after it is done we would think about the return journey. So there were no plans for returns.

Danu’s Pulsar 200	Dinna’s TW200 (with loads of pooja items)
Platina	Discovery (my friends bikes)
My XR250

After a significant amount of pushing, pulling in mud and massive roots we got the bikes up to the ‘Thelaboo gala’. It has sapped all our energy and drained most of our water. I removed a 10 ltr water can due the excess weight on the bikes. It was too hard to control the bike with the load. We planed to have our breakfast and climbed up to the top of the rock.

Bread with seeni sambol. Yameeee…..	All of us on ‘Thelaboo gala’
Food operation….	Bit ok now…
Waiting to hammer the mud….	Ok.. lets go

I Kept the cameras in the bag for safety. And our target was go straight to the devalaya. So we decided not to waste time for filming. Also it was very hard to carry the camera and ride.

Once again the going was really hard. We frequently had to dismount and man handle the bikes over fallen trees and push them out of hidden holes that we got stuck in. The trail was covered in the parallel rattan which meant that I had to concentrate hard to keep the bike upright. It was a total nightmare

We crossed ‘Alakola-ara’ with about 3 feet of water. We took bikes one by one without causing any damage to them. My team was superb. We all worked hard as one team. Finally we came to our destination at 1:30 pm (5 hours ride)

Quickly we prepared ourselves to do the Pooja. We jumped in to white sarongs and took off the muddy riding gear. There was an Army point there and they came and registered our information. They were surprised when they saw our bikes. There was a very nice officer with his buddy and they told us to ask from them if we need any thing and they were willing to help us.

Last driving point of Kumbukkan Oya	People used to stay overnight here. There was a good toilet
Rest for a while to the hot engine….	Cross the Kumbukkan oya with pooja items
Walking through fast water flow…	Close to bank…
Danu	My friend
Dinna	me
After the pooja…

I setup the camera in video mode and didn’t take any stills when we did the pooja. (If would you like to see it I can arrange to copy) We prepared (milk rice) ‘Muruthan bath’ and ‘Plathuru watti’ (fruit trays). After we properly worshiped we had fruits and milk rice for our lunch. We gave a plate of rice and fruits to the Army post as well.

Everybody was happy about the way we did our pooja. It was Nicely done without a ‘Kapuwa’. Not a rushed “Pooja” like at the Katharagama maha devalaya. After cleaning every thing; the place and the things we used to cook, we headed back home with blessing of the God’s.

Water level had increased…	Dinna & Danu crossed it by foot
....... and others came along using a fallen tree as a bridge

We came back to our bikes and planed to stay the night there. It was 5:30 pm. Since my friends had to report to the Police station next day morning I decided to ride back in the night. It was deadly and dangerous because of elephants, bears and snakes. But the faith came on top of all of that and we decided to start.

Considering the experience of the ‘Bogas yaya road (බෝගස් යාය පාර).’ we decided to ride on ‘Kammal yaya road (කම්මල් යාය පාර).’ its first 15 km is a hard muddy track and the rest is bit easy. Oh.. God.. what a track it was. We got stuck in big ruts made by large tractor wheels and the mud was slippery like බණ්ඩක්කා (ladies-fingers). Danu fell 2 times with in 7 feet’s on his Pulsar 200. Dinna had a tyre punch in the front wheel of the TW200. But he still said that he can manage. Bikes got stuck in more than 2 feets deep in the mud and required the full strength of all of the team to get them back to track. Fortunately my friend’s bike was not as heavy as ours.

The going iwas really slow, but at this time of the day that was ok. All of us wanted to find some where to spend the night. Elephant dung and newly broken branches where every where. Now the hearts began to pump fast…. All of us had butterflies in stomach when ever we saw the big round footprints. In the front was my self (XR250) and Dinna (TW200). Dinesh too was brave enough to take the challenge. Some times we had to speed straight in to a mud rut for about 200 meters in pitch black. When bikes were switched off it’s was like a nightmare to see the surrounding. If we stop the bikes they would sink in mud and would require recovery by all of our strength. So we had to ride fast in the mud and shout each other to signal whether they should come or not. If they cannot do it we had to find another route in the jungle. So we would park our bikes and would come back with a small torch to find a track to slowly navigate them to avoid the deep mud holes.

A stretch of 100 metres through a swamp was incredibly hard. It was a mud hole after a mud holes, each one swallowing the bikes as there was no way around them. It took us the best part of an hour to haul our bikes through it.

My Honda XR is pretty tall – 940mm. I’ve never managed to flat foot a XR as I’m 5′ 6″. The height is hardly ever a problem when riding. I would ride mostly standing and try to keep my feet on the pegs as much as possible. If my feet come off the pegs, I fall off.

After 20 km we got into some really dense jungle and down into a stream bed. We had no water for long time and when we saw the stream it was a real wow……. We drank pure water which came through the natural filters. The time might have been10 in the night and the fear of thick jungle had gone off. After refreshing, we started the battle again. Danu had a problem with his bike as the Pulsar 200 had no brakes in rear or front. He was totally flat due to his riding. He said that he cannot ride anymore and felt like smashing and burning his bike.

Oh.. What a situation! We were all soaked and knackered and I sensed that there was some tensions within our team. Under these extreme circumstances I began to see sides of people which I don’t normally see. I left it at that for for the time being and decided to exchange bikes with Danu. He was back in the game again and I had to get used to the new beast. I hate Indian bikes but what to do…. so going got tough.

The trail was fairly hairy in places and at times we were riding a thin single track with deep rain ruts on either sides. As I descend through this section there were more than a couple sorry moments. There were some impressive sand stone stalagmites on both sides due to heavy rain erosion.

We search for a way around and descend into a large overgrown swamp.

Inside the swamp it was hard going again. Full of mud, fallen trees and vines which half strangled me as I ride through. I thrashed and drag my bike through the slop. Others helped me. My friend from Kotiyagala said that he came along this route after three months and it was difficult to find the track in pitch dark. He guided us by pointing to large trees. How lucky were we? …we came to some ‘Iringu chena’ (හේන) planted illegally by the villagers. There were some illeage hurbs chenas too (kansa/ganja). It was a danger factor because the care takers of those illegal plants may think that we had come for raid and may even shoot at us.

So I decided to spend the rest of the night some where safe. Now the time was close to 12 mid night.

I didn’t take many photos. I was completely drained – physically and mentally. I was not sure how much more I could take of this pulsar 200. I felt light headed and dizzy again. The only thing I was aware of was the heat and how bad I felt. only thing I could do was to blame the Pulsar 200 bike and find some higher gorund to stay.

Thank God… we came to ‘Wadigala’ at 12:05 in the mid night with full of moon light as it was the 19th the day the moon was closest to the earth. No need of extra lights. There was a small stream running close to the rock with 5 inches of clear water. I dug a hole in the middle of it and made a small well. As soon as we reached there we start to cook some rice and dhal. We had some pickle and seeni sambol brought from home. I had a bath and others had body wash. We had our dinner while it was hot and while having dinner Dinna slept on the rock. It was a nice place with moon light so all of us slept well without any consideration of the wild beasts. We kept the fire alive but didn’t know what happened tilll 7:00 am the next day.

Off roaders… best fallen bike…	My beauty…
Kept the tent on bike and slept on naked rock. No strength to fix it	Best runner…
Next day morning check the surrounds	Wadi gala – people came to here when they do the chenas. Close to the rock there was a man doing a small boutique with buicuts, cigarettes, tea for the workers when the period start.
He helped us too….	Place we cooked rice…
Place we slept	Dinna packing again… in the background is the ‘Food City… gedara yana gaman…’

With fresh blood we hammered the gravel road up to Kotiyagala police post as it was a off-road running event. We were that much eager to see the end of the track. Thank God, we came safely to the Kotiyagala after running 70 km in the wood and mud.

DTD Off-road Team. (Dinesh-Theshantha-Danushka)	Hello Dinna…

After we reached there a gentleman from Police HQ (Bamunu) requested us to pose for a photo. They were shocked when they saw bikes and us. They were also ready to leave by tractors, parking their 4×4 at police post due to the road condition. Thanks to him; he sent me this via email.

After saying good bye to loving friends we headed back to Athimale to repair Dinna’s TW200 tyre punch. We were done with it but still no brakes on TW200 and Pulsar 200. Managed the ride on the gears… After riding 17km we reached the carpet tarmac at ‘Kalukobbawa’ at Siyambalanduwa. Every body looked at us; what a dress code and muddy beauties…

We couldn’t speed even 100 meters before we were stopped by the whistles of Traffic Police. Kindly they asked us where we went. After we said that we went to the devalaya it was alright and they even guided us to a river where we could clean ourselves and change in to new clothes.

Had a bath…	Slightly washed bikes…
Nice water….

We came to ‘Kotiyagoda’ for lunch and at Monaragala TW200 & Pulsar200 were repaired for brakes. It had no liners or pads due to mud. Luckily the parts were available there. Then we started to hammer down the carpet up to reach Colombo. We spent two, three hours at Kumbalwela at Dammika’s place and came home on the 21st Monday early morning 4:30 am at Makola.

Nice Adventure. Love to do it again on my XR250…Hope you all enjoy this.

Thank you.

According to the “Birds of Sri Lanka” by Prof. Sarath Kotagama, Mannar is one of the main entry points for migrant birds to the main land of Sri Lanka. The area facilitates lot of water holes which are rich of food for these birds. So only few of those birds that are not satisfied with those facilities only come inland, so Mannar is rich with bird life on migrant season mainly from September to May. Few of my friends who had been to Mannar recently had seen lot of bird life there. So we decide that it’s time to pay a visit to Mannar.

This was the first time I m going to Mannar, so before going I did some research on how to plan it. There is a nice trip report by jetwing CEO on his Mannar trip in 2006. According to that it has taken about 10 hrs for them to get to the Giant Tank. Keeping that in mind we plan to leave Colombo by 10 PM on Friday to get to Giant Tank by 7 AM. As always been so punctual we left Colombo one hour behind the schedule. But going in night and Thushara’s exceptional driving abilities has taken us to Madhawachchiya around 3.30 AM. We took Colombo –> Dambulla –> A9 to Madhawachchiya and A14 to Mannar instead of the Colombo –> Puttalum -> Anuradhapura –> Madhawachchiya to Mannar route. We were at Giant Tank reserve close to Murukkan by 5.30 and waited till the sun come out.

Marshes of Giant Tank Reserve just before sunrise

Rising Sun for the Northwest of Sri Lanka

There was lot of bird activities going around us. We wait there for about hour and saw about 15 bird species. It was a very nice place to observe Common Kingfisher. There were few ponds with lot of tiny fish. And Kingfishers were coming to these ponds almost every 5 minutes.

Waiting for a Kingfisher by Harsha Matarage

Common Kingfisher

I managed to shoot few other birds as well.

White-throated Munia	Indian Swiftlet (Please correct me if I m wrong)
Paddyfield Pipit	We were at Murunkan

We left the place to get to Giant Tank hoping that it will have lot of birds. But the Giant Tank was a giant, there was no chance in photographing there and even there were not many birds either. So we decided to keep going. Just before getting to Mannar Causeway we came across few interesting birds.

Eurasian Curlew

Grey Francolin

Both side of the Mannar Causeway is rich of birds. We saw few bird species there but most of them were quite far to be photographed. From the far end we saw the famous bridge for the singing fish, “Thalladi Bridge”.

Mannar causeway	Pacific golden plover
Thalladi Railway Bridge

Passing the causeway we reach the Mannar town. It was crowded as always. Getting the direction from a Navy soldier we headed toward Talaimannar. There was lot of birds on the way from Mannar town to Talaimannar. The lagoon in front of the STF training camp was full of gulls, plovers and godwits. The only problem was how to get close to them as it was all open area. We saw our first Baobab tree there (there are other Baobab trees before that, we saw them after this one.) and choose to get down for shooting some birds and getting the breakfast.

Black-tailed godwit

Gulls (Herring Gull, Yellow-legged Gull and Brown-headed Gull)

Gulls going crazy!

First Baobab tree	A Mash Sandpiper
Black-tailed godwit	Flying Black-tailed godwits
System Error…!!!	Thushara and the Jeep
Baobab Flowering…

Breakfast under the Baobab by Harsha Matarage

Then we headed toward the “Four Tee Rest Inn”, as per the owner Mr. Laurance it was 7.5Kms from the Mannar town to the Talaimannar side. There is a telecom tower on to your right just before turn to the Four Tee. You have to take the left turn from the four way junction just passing the telecom tower (there is a sign board).

“Four tee rest inn” as Namal has described on his thread, is a nice place. The owner has welcomed us with a worm smile. Only thing is his English is also like his Sinhala (I wish I know Tamil). With a map he gave an introduction to the area and where we should look for Birds. Interesting thing was he said he has seen a flock of 25 Flamingos and 3 Black-necked Storks. Been so tired after a long night travel we went to our rooms to get a rest.

It was about 3 when we walk up, and hurried up to get the lunch and get back to street. We have decided to go to the marsh area close to Kalladi Bridge. Just after getting in to the Mannar road we saw our first wild horses in Sri Lanka.

A Young wild horse

Mannar horses

Though they are wild, latter we saw some of them had tattooed letters on their body. Guess they are not wild anymore!

On the way we were always searching for birds close to our Baobab tree.

Garganey	Indian Roller
Indian Roller	Garganey landing..
A Tawny Coaster (Acraea terpsicore)

While getting to the Thalladi Bridge area we came across the old railway station in Mannar. Our guys were keen to go and explore it. We met a Sinhala guy from Ambalangoda who is working on the Mannar railway repairing project. According to the guy it will be fixed soon and we can enjoy a train ride from Colombo to Mannar in no more than few months

Old railway station by Harsha Matarage

Road beyond the railway station was lead us to a fishing village. The road was not in a good condition and the surrounding was not the best for birding either. We turn around from the village and return to our favorite area in Mannar, our Baobab tree!

Pink and green earth on the way back

Jacobin Cuckoo

It was too late for Bird Photography, but it was awesome for some sunset and silhouette photography.

Sunset over “Baobab Lagoon”	Silhouette of Harsha Matarage
It’s me and Thushara…!

It’s was time to return to Four Tee Rest Inn and have a good night sleep.

In the second day morning, we got up around 5.30, it was bit late for Birders to get up and look for birds. It must have been the long day yesterday kept us sleeping this long. As I have promised to my friends at Lakdasun, I managed to get some photos of the Four Tee Rest Inn. Here are few of them.

Four Tee Rest Inn!	Four Tee Rest Inn!
Four Tee Rest Inn!	Four Tee Rest Inn!
Four Tee Rest Inn!

It was time to explore a new area. This time we chose to explore Vankalai. According to the owner of the guesthouse this area is also great for birding. And it is true; we felt the deference as soon as we turn to the Vankalai road. There were plenty of birds all over the place.

Grey Heron	Painted Storks
Lagoons on the road to Vankalai	Vankalai bird life
“Kok” Fashion?	A Juvenile White-bellied Sea-Eagle
Eurasian Spoonbills	Flying Flamingos? Sadly they are not! Long bill had fool me

Morning session was not so bad. We got back to Mannar town and had our breakfast there, plenty of string hoppers, pittu and wade. My friends wanted to go to Talaimannar thought I was not that interested. We headed toward Talaimannar not forgetting to stop by the “Baobab” Lagoon.

Red-collared dove (I couldn’t find the red collar )
Lasantha with a rocket launcher	Hunters on the field..

Heading toward Talaimannar we came across these people fishing using nets. Not a sight to miss!

Fisherman

Not to miss the moment!

As I thought, Talaimannar was only so much hot. We had a chat with navy soldiers there and got to know there aren’t any birds there. We were at the place where old railway from Colombo to Mannar ends in the sea (pier). There is a light house as well. Navy guys said that they can see a tower in India in a clear day. It was only 18kms from there to India.

Our guys were looking for another pier knows as the “Old Pier”. Mistakenly we turn to Uramali road. Road conditions were unacceptable. So we decided to turn around. It was the road leads to the edge of the island and toward the famous Adam’s Bridge. Then we turn to the Nadukuda road looking for the “Old Pier”. There is a Navy camp at the end of the road and a fishing village. Navy officer in charge there was very helpful and took us around the beach area. From him we got to know that they are planning to start a boat service from Nadukuda around sandy islands of Adam’s Bridge as a tourist attraction. With the idea of returning to get this new experience in later day we return to Mannar. While crossing the causeway we came across this lovely bird.

Crab Plover

Search for birds was not finished yet, we turn to the Jaffna road from Thalladi to go to Vidattaltiya. The area behind the Thalladi camp was rich of birds. We couldn’t make it to Vidattaltiya, which has large lagoon cause of the delay we had close to Thalladi. Newly concreted Jaffna road was in great condition. We saw few lovely birds on this road.

Eurasian Spoonbill and a Black-winged Stilt

A spotted billed pelican

The road leads to Thirukeeshwaram Kovil, one of the famous Kovils in the area. We turn around the Kovil and got back to the Mannar – Madhawachchiya rd. There were plenty of wild donkeys on the road.

Mannar full of Donkeys

As soon as we turn to the main road we came across a Pied Kingfisher. Not a sight to miss. Thanks to one of my friends I love to shoot all those kingfishers in Sri Lanka and here is one of them.

Pied Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Here are more birds on the way back.

Got Ya !

Finally we got back to the Giant Tank. Though it was not so interesting site, and we still haven’t seen flamingos we stop by to have a look around. Harsha went to see if there is anything interesting and return in empty hand. Suddenly I saw something emerging from the background. It was time for landscape shooting with rainbow in the background !

Rainbow behind bank of the Giant Tank

Lovely view of the Giant Tank

Meanwhile Thushara had found a place full of Butterflies on the other side of the road. Here we are shooting some macros.

Macro shooting

Macro shooting

It was just pass 6PM. We haven’t had anything after breakfast and it was time to break fasting. We came across this great place for food in front of the Giant Tank which is managed by Army camp there. We had some great food for a lowest possible cost. A place to keep in mind!

After a two magnificent two days at Mannar, it was time for us to get back to home.

Laxapana is world-famous because of the engineering excellence of late Eng. D.J. Wimalasurendra(1874-1953), known as the father of Hydro power electricity in Sri Lanaka. As per his project proposal submitted in 1918, the water potential, combined with Maskelioya and Kehelgamuoya, could be diverted to generate electricity to light 100,000 lamps (“Laksa-pahana” -> “Laxapana”). Being the house for complexes of hydro power plants, there are many security barriers & restrictions for the travelers who visit that area for years.

The waterfall at Laxapana is observed in a distance by many pilgrims of Sri Pada who use the route to Nallathanni via Norton Bridge & Maskeliya. But only a few out of them really visited the base & the mouth of the fall, which could be accessed with a little extra effort. Since one of my friends requested me to visit his place at Bogawantalawa, I got a golden opportunity to spend few moments with this gamine, who coquettish in the lap of seven virgins.

We were confused for a while to get a decision of the path. Finally, I decided to use the shortest having thinking whether difficulties we might face could add some interesting moments to the journey. We were at Kalugala junction where you find a security barrier just after passing Kitulgala in A7 route.

The route was little bit harder beyond our expectation (the worst segment)

The road was hilly & narrow. We stopped for a while at a village café for a tea with “Helapa”(For non Sri Lanken: a traditional sweet made with grains known as Kurakkan) . The merchant of the same informed us whether photography was prohibited beyond the bridge on the “Kehelgamuwa oya” River (which formed Aberdeen fall in the upstream) since there were complex of Hydro power stations.

The road was scenic and lay through tea plantations

At the first 3 way junction we met, we turned right the lower path which was along the dam of Laxapana power station, the hardest route while the left path was to Norton Bridge. The route was little bit harder beyond our expectation. But it was scenic and lay through tea plantations under the shade of the seven virgins. By 10.30 am we were almost at the first travel location of the day.

It was Koththellena, from where the stepped path to the base of Laxapana waterfall was started. In the next 15 minutes, we were at the base of the 8th highest waterfall of Sri Lanka. Climbing a series of rock barriers, we reached the edge of the deadly base pool.

Koththellena, from where the stepped path was started

the stepped path to the base of Laxapana waterfall

This fall was formed with Maskeliya oya (river). The river leaped off from a cliff of 126m to form this beauty. Reservoirs built upstream had decreased the yield of the water flow significantly. Although it was true, this incomparable beauty was removing her shawl on our sight. Closing eyes and Leaning on a rock, I imagined for minutes how pleasant she would be in her full strength. A droplet of water fallen on my face awaked me from my dream and reminded me whether it was time to say good bye to the gamine.

The river leaped off from a cliff of 126m to form this beauty

the 8th highest waterfall of Sri Lanka

this incomparable beauty was removing her shawl on our sight

It was a good thing to exist few village cafes on the stepped path. We had some herbal drink (“Belimal”) with genuine Kitul jaggery. As a result, the lady merchant of the café was lucky enough to empty her jaggery bin for the day.

“Lakshapana Jayabima “ Estate with seven virgins

Traveling another 800m upwards from Koththellena, we reached the main entrance of “Lakshapana Jayabima” Estate, from where the stepped path to the mouth of the fall was begin. The rock surface of the up stream was very soft due to erosion for centuries. As a result, it was deadly slippery when wet. As per the notice at the trail head, there was a high potential to sudden incensement of water flow, which caused to wipe off all being on that rock plane. But the curiosity enhanced self confidence to put us there and lead us to get in to the hole at the edge of the cliff made with erosion, which allowed us to get a good photograph. But when you visit there, never ever try this if it was a rainy season.

due to erosion for centuries

The deadly mouth

the hole at the edge of the cliff made with erosion, which allowed us to get a good photograph

The cliff

At the beginning, when I asked for a safe bathing spot from locals, they asked us to not to bath dawn stream the fall since a death was occurred within two days. Further not to practice the same at the top of the fall (where we were), since another was occurred a week back. What they advised us was to drive until find the bridge on the upstream of Maskeliya River, where a safe bathing pool was located. When we got down from the vehicle, parking at the road side near the said bridge, a lorry driver passing us stopped and asked us to not to bath there since another death was occurred at that place, a fortnight before. Further he asked us to walk further upstream and find a shallow pool. Finally we were able to find the said one and had a cool dip for hours.

the bridge on the upstream of Maskeliya River with seven virgins

This pool had claimed a life two weeks ago

The safe pool

Since it was “Sri-Pada” (Adams peak) season, many had lost their lives in bathing in unsafe water. Where ever you travel, be extra careful on bathing in unknown places. Please keep in your mind that death is in your hand span while you are bathing specially in the Maskeliya oya.

Laxapana fall was visible at Norton – Maskeliya road

Since most of us were not been to Norton-Bridge before, we decided to visit there without turning right to Maskeliya. Norton- Bridge was attractive not only because of the mountains surrounded, but the reservoir. A tire of the crashed aircraft; DC-8 at seven virgins was displayed there as a memorial.

A tire of the crashed aircraft; DC-8 at seven virgins was displayed there as a memorial.

Impressing the sky was not happy on our leaving of Norton Bridge; it began to beat us with a heavy shower. Sorry dear sky, an Indian lunch was waiting for us at Bogawantalawa. We would be blamed if we were not there at least having the same as late-lunch. So we continued our journey. The sky was favored on us offering many seasonal waterfalls, but penalized not allowing getting off from the vehicle.

On our way to Bogawantalawa

Tea estates & seasonal waterfalls

Bogawanthalawa was a colonial town in a bottom of a basing formed by ranges of mountains covered with velvety tea plantations which made the finest Ceylon tea.
Since the house of my friend was located inside of a huge tea estate, I was crazy on driving a van with not adequate ground clearance for 5km in an estate road. In the next 45 minutes, we were warmly welcome by the family members of my friend at their house where located in a fantastic location. Idley, wadei and many more…, made that evening delicious.

View at my friend’s house

Day 1

Left Colombo at around 12pm. Arrived at the hotel by around 3.30pm and spent the entire evening at the beach and sea.

Day 2

Arrived at the Mirissa harbour by 6.20am since we were to leave by 7am. Was at sea for around 40 minutes when the guide spotted whales. Got to see 3 whales(for the entire trip….hmph) of which only 1 posed for the camera.

Blue Whale…..The only photo

Disappointed with the lack of show put on by the whales for us we were circling around at sea for another good 2-21/2 hrs hoping to see some more when we came across a school of dolphins that put on a terrific performance cheering the whole group up after a disappointing morning……Should say that the dolphins made up for it..

Getting ready for a jump…..	A step closer ....
10/10 for synchronization…..	.
.	.

WOOOWW!!!!

Performers and the Spectators

.

.

.

After a quick sea bath and lunch at hotel left for Colombo by 4.30pm thanking the dolphins for the great entertainment provided.

We left Colombo at around 4 pm on Friday, planning to stay overnight at the Wildlife Trust TREE centre at Randenigala. We left Kandy at around 7.30 pm after picking up a member of our group. It was a wet night and visibility was poor – interestingly the route tracked on my GPS (which has preloaded 1” topo maps of Sri Lanka) varied quite significantly from the roads marked on the map. We reached the barrier at the reservoir shortly before 10 pm – the road is closed to traffic at 10 pm, and reopened at 6 am, and reached the TREE centre soon afterwards.

We were assigned two cottages at the centre – very clean and newly refurbished – though the bathrooms were in need of attention – though usable. The rooms were airconditioned, and the total cost for both was around Rs.5,000.

The morning air was very fresh and we welcomed the change from the city! Birdlife was not spectacular. We found that the centre was a part of a bigger complex which could accomodate up to several hundred people. There was a huge crowd of cadets being housed at some adjacent cottages and dormitories. The arrangements are very practical, though may not be ideal for a holiday communing with nature and far from crowds. The centre provided us with a tasty kiribath breakfast with a welcome cup of hot tea.

We headed off at around 7.30, and rejoined the Mahiyangana Bibile road in an hour or so. Thereafter, on to Bibile where we stopped to pick up some fruit and last minute items. The road from Bibile to Nilgala was very scenic, and the country side quite unusual – this was our first time in the area. The short run from the Nilgala turn off to the park gate plunged us almost immediately into scrub jungle – the road requires a vehicle with high clearance, and in wet weather most likely 4WD. We reached the park office at around 12.30pm.

The park office is scenically situated overlooking a large tract of paddy. There were watch huts on stilts at the edge of the jungle, and we were told that marauding elephants were a real problem. In fact we later found that elephants could mostly be viewed in the paddy field rather than inside the park proper!

The park office is scenically situated overlooking a large tract of paddy.

There were watch huts on stilts at the edge of the jungle

There was some confusion over which campsite we could use – we were shown all three, and settled for the Makara site although we had to carry our equipment about 300 meters to the campsite down (and up!) a rocky slope. The site was really most beautiful large and wide with the river crashing down just beyond it.

We settled for the Makara Camp site, the site was really most beautiful large and wide with the river crashing down just beyond it

It took us a few hours to set up camp and cook ourselves a meal – and we were able to finally sit down and relax by around 4 pm.

Suffice to say that I will not provide an hour by hour description of what we did – just the highlights…..

The river was of course the focal point of our sojourn at the site. The upstream end comprised a kind of rocky wall over which water cascaded in a number of mini waterfalls – the action of the water was very strong, the rocks below were smooth an slippery. Getting under the cascades was an exceptional experience rather like a strong massage for head and shoulders!

Right opposite the campsite the river was calm and the bed sandy such that it provided a perfect place for relaxing in the water. The opposite bank of the river had a sandy beach, beyond which was a rocky cliff – we noticed a huge wasps nest hanging off the cliff and the tracker warned us not to get too close or to be too noisy around that area – fortunately it was some way off from the campsite!

Right opposite the campsite the river was calm and the bed sandy such that it provided a perfect place for relaxing in the water

Getting under the cascades was an exceptional experience rather like a strong massage for head and shoulders!

Downstream from the campsite the river seemed to be blocked by a tumble of huge boulders – hence the name Gal Oya, one presumes. We make the trek over the boulders right up to the “gilma” where the river joins the Senanayake Samudraya. This walk was an awesome experience, and not for the faint hearted. It took us four hours to cover what was essentially a 2KM stretch of the river. The boulders were as much as 30 feet high in places, and route had to be found under, over or around the rocks. A pathway through the forest only takes you a short distance after which the jungle becomes too thick to safely navigate. The effort is worth is however, as the following pictures will show.

Downstream from the campsite the river seemed to be blocked by a tumble of huge boulders – hence the name Gal Oya, one presumes

In the course of our trek we found the pug marks of a jackal or fishing cat in the sand below the boulders.

The forest around the campsite is not typically dry zone scrub, and was quite reminiscent of the kind of woods encountered in the northern latitudes of Europe and the US. There was no undergrowth in most places, and together with picturesque rocky outcrops, it was most delightful to walk in.

We make the trek over the boulders right up to the “gilma” where the river joins the Senanayake Samudraya	This walk was an awesome experience, and not for the faint hearted.
we found the pug marks of a jackal or fishing cat in the sand below the boulders	Together with picturesque rocky outcrops, the forest was most delightful to walk in.

The only track in that area of the park is the one that leads from the park office to the Makara campsite. There are no other tracks which can be used to explore parts of the park – the tracker and the ranger admitted that better access is required as there are very interesting areas that could otherwise be explored.

Each evening we would drive down to the park office and carefully walk across the paddy fields with a ranger and tracker in an attempt to see elephants. The area was frequented by a small herd of them, but we were not lucky enough to encounter them at a visible distance – they could be heard deeper in the forest, but never emerged to feed on the stubble in the paddy fields until very late at night.

More than birds, the area had a profusion of interesting insects and butterflies – a few are pictured here.

More than birds, the area had a profusion of interesting insects and butterflies

This particular spider had a very unusual web…..

More interesting butterflies

In conclusion, this trip was a very interesting one, very different to the usual conditions and attractions encountered in dry zone parks. In a sense, the limited mobility forced us to enjoy the surroundings of the campsite which we tend not to usually do.

As we exited the park, a superb view of a frogmouth in a tree close to the park office….Can you spot it?!

a superb view of a frogmouth in a tree close to the park office….Can you spot it?!

In Green = Uda Maliboda trail , in Orange = Erathna trail

This was a trail that I was looking forward to do since I have done the other two main routes previously (Palabathgala & Hatton). All started when we met on 21st of march where I got to know many members of Lakdasun out of them Amal who is a member came up to me and asked me “are you planning to do the Uda Maliboda trail?” so that was the initiative for this journey! .

Both of us met up at Avissawella at 6a.m and we were lucky to catch the 6a.m. bus too. After arriving at Deraniyagala we had breakfast and bought the essential we needed and caught the 7.45a.m bus to Uda Maliboda. At around 9a.m. we met our guides who we did contact previously.

Let me explain the route from Uda Maliboda. After passing Uda Maliboda tea factory we continued further until we came to the Corporate shop where the road divides in to two, We took the one to the right which had a sign board saying To Dikellakanda & Eli Hatha. We continued on this road and we did cross the Naya ganga Sapaththu palama. The journey was an uphill three wheel ride where at some places we had to get down and push the three-wheeler too. The road is not suitable for vehicles with poor ground clearance. After passing the Dikellakanda School and traveling further up we came to place which had a name board saying 9Km to Sri Pada.

Starting point

Pandeniya Oya

We arrived at Pandeniya oya and met some UOM guys doing the same trail. From here onwards the journey was trough the Wilderness of Adams Peak sanctuary. The foot path was very clear because locals have cleared the path during the initial months of Sri Pada season. The first part was parallel to the Pandeniya oya but eventually we were traveling uphill and away from Pandeniya oya. After climbing up few hundred meters we came across the first water stream out of many where we rested and started removing the Pests called leeches and yes the numbers were high because it has rained on the previous 2 to 3 days. We did meet up with the previous group again at this point who were suffering with leech attack as we did!

The path

Uphill journey

Tackling the leeches

The journey was getting tougher and as the steep slopes seemed like never ending. My wildest guest is we were traveling uphill on Heen Piduruthalawa Mountain. And suddenly out of no where the rain poured down heavily and it was thundering too & the worst was the Guerrilla Leech attack. The leech attack was unbearable but we didn’t want to waste time on them, we did remove them when ever we stopped by a water stream for a rest. The two guides who came with us said that they have never encountered an attack like this. After about 2Km we came across an elephant path way / Elephant feeding ground close to the upper reaches of Heen Piduruthalawa, We were bit worried because there were fresh elephant dung all over the place and seen many false tracks made by elephants but we were fortunate not to come across these giants. The journey continued further on a flat terrain and then it was a downhill journey. The rain had seized a bit but the leech attack was continuing even involving our head, neck, chest and other areas of the body and there was one even on my lip.

A water stream

Traveling further up	tackling the flat terrain
Fresh elephant dung	Bushes disturbed by elephants
Down hill path	A small cascade

We came across a stream which we thought was Seethagangula but it was too small to be Seetha gangula but guess what Seethagangula was only less than 2o meters away from this stream. We were happy that we reached Seethagangula because it’s only less than 1Km to go from here onwards. There were arrows on the rocks of Seethagangula showing the directions towards the foot path which was on the opposite bank and 50-100m upstream. We continued uphill trough a dense Bamboo jungle where we had difficulties to see few meter in front of us because of the thick mist cover which had settled down, but however after 1Km we reached the Erathna trail. We went down the trail until we reached Madahinna where we had some warm food and said good bye to the guides who came with us on this 4.5hr 5-6Km journey.

The final stream	Seethagangula on Deraniyagala Route
Opposite bank starting point	Through the bamboo forest
The misty path	Reaching the Erathna trail
The name board near the trail end	Thanking our guides

Since it was raining we wanted to find a place to stay at night so we climbed up until we reached Idikatupana Ambalama where we stayed until dawn, We also did come across the other group who did the same trail as us and guess what two of them were Lakdasun members   . The hall was packed and it was very difficult to sleep with all the singing and playing of drums by young groups who has forgotten the purpose of Adams peak hike. At around 5a.m. the skies were so clear and the moon was covered partially by clouds just above Kubudiyaparwathaya and in backdrop was the coastal Galle road lit up far away & on the other side it was Adams peak Mahagiridhabaya lit up perfectly but unfortunately we did not have a good camera to capture these wonderful sights. So if you are planning to spend the night on this trail try and choose Indikatupana Ambalam on a Full moon day!

Indikatupana Ambalama

The rituals

Next morning it was time to climb up but I decided to wonder around rather climbing with the crowd but Amal did climb up while I was exploring Seethagangula. At around 3p.m. we started to descend though it was drizzling and it was a continuous down hill journey. We did come across few “Dansal”

Dawn

Early morning view

Tackling the last few steps

On the top

Adams Peak

Mousakelle reservoir

Dharmarajaraja gala

Piduruthalawa & Maha Piduruthalawa range

Kunudiyaparwathaya is one of my dream hikes

Heen Piduruthalawa which we tackled on the previous day

Pilgrims	A calm stream
Seethagangula near Indikatupana	A cascade of Seethagangula
A Beauty	Erathna trail
Where Seethagangula meets Kuru ganga	Tea for free

Dusk

Iron bars

Near Waranagala

For more details about this trail please read this trail guide. We arrived at Waranagala at around 6p.m but since it was dark we did not attempt to visit Waranagala falls, instead we continued downhill until we reached Adawikanda at around 7.45p.m. I must say the last 8Km’s was a mirage for us! From there we took a three-wheeler and reached Erathna temple where we stayed that night. Next morning we left to Kuruwita where we had breakfast and left to have a glimpse of the famous, commercialized Bopath Falls but we forgot to visit Dodan falls which was close by too. After that we returned back to Kuruwita and set ourselves towards our home sweet homes!

Bopath Falls

Bopath Falls close up

Quote: Bopath Falls

The Bopath Falls cascades in the shape of a bo (Ficus religiosa) tree (hence its name) and is the most comprehensively studied fall in Sri Lanka. Its source is the Kurugana River that later joins the Kaluganga River at Kurugaomaodara.

The average temperature of the area is 26.9 – 27.8 degrees Celsius and the annual rainfall of the fall’s catchment area is 5080mm. The mean speed of the flow is 6 cubic metres per second. The upper reach of the fall is made up of granite and biotite virin, and is covered by sand. The water from the fall irrigates the paddy fields of the Udakada and Kuruwita areas.

The surrounding plant and tree life includes attikka (Ficus racimosa), kumbuk (Terminalia arjuna), midella, dun (Doona spp), para (Wormia suffruticosa), ginihota (Cythia spp), rathmadiya, ketala (Lagenendra oveta), Beduru (Dryneria spp), orchids, varieties of meewana (Madhca) badal, hanassa, makulu and beduru. Animal species include wild boar, Meemina deer and reptiles, and the water is home to many species of fish including bulathhapaya, lellu, magura, korali, sonnu and eel. In addition to its rich bio-diversity, the fall is also steeped in folklore. One such story tells how a youth from Colombo made a pilgrimage here, and on losing his way was helped and sheltered by a local village girl.

A love developed between the two and she became pregnant before his departure. He left, promising to return but never did. Overcome with grief, she took her own life by plunging into the fall. Villagers say that her ghost (which appears as a floating blue light) haunts the fall.

Another local belief is that a treasure trove lies somewhere within the fall and that one thousand human sacrifices are needed to retrieve it. Bopath Falls is in the Ratnapura District, Kuruwita Divisional Secretariat at Agalwatte village. Take the road from Columbo to Ratnapura and turn left along Devipahala road. After 3km the fall is reached. (The Dodam Falls is located close by).

This was a family trip to Bandarawela. We traveled Rathnapura to Balangoda via Wewelwattha to see Dehena, Alupola and Beruwatta waterfalls. Second day we visited Adisham Bungalow and Thangamale sanctuary. Third day we visited Horton plains, New Zealand farm and Hakgala gardens. Last day we visited Bambarakanda falls on the way to home.

First day we visited Dehena Ella, Alupola Ella and Beruwatta Ella. Beruwatta Ella can be seen in a distance from Alupola to Balangoda road.

Dehena Ella

Alupola Ella

Beruwatta Ella

Second day we visited Thangamale sanctuary (walk about 45 minutes) and Adisham bungalow

Adisham bungalow

Roses at the garden

Third day we visited Horton Plains. We haven’t done any trails neither planned. We just see and feel the beauty of the plains and mountains.

Kirigalpoththa from Horton plains

Sri-Pada from Horton plains

Thotupola Kanda from Horton plains.

After the Horton plains visit we went to New Zealand farm and Hakgala gardens.

Landscape near New Zealand farm

Ambewela Lake

Machine milking @ New Zealand farm

Fourth day, on the way home we visited Bambarakanda falls & kids had a bath too.

Bambarakanda Ella as seen from A4 (Haldumulla)

Bambarakanda Ella

Surathali Ella

Outward bound:
6.05 am train from Colombo Fort. A long long train which seemed to be going everywhere – Anuradhapura, Pollonaruwa, Batticaloa, Trincomalee…so make sure you sit in the correct carriage or your destination may change!

Real great fun was watching the train ‘change tracks’ at the Polgahawela, Mahawa, etc.

After the Anuradhapura carriages were detached, we suddenly found ourselves at the end of the train rather than the middle …!

At Gal Oya junction, we parted company with the passengers (and their food!) who were going on to Pollonaruwa and Batticaloa. For the last stretch of the journey, Air Force and Civil Defense soldiers travelled with us keeping a sharp eye out… no tension and quite friendly. Still it reminded us how recently this was a rather dangerous route to take. The track after Habarana is dead straight and with jungle on either side.

we suddenly found ourselves at the end of the train rather than the middle …!

Air Force and Civil Defense soldiers travelled with us keeping a sharp eye out

Even with all that, a few unauthorized travelers tried to sneak in!!

Alle – Kanthale Road:
With the van shutters down, when the dust was clinging to our eye lashes I was reminded of the adventures in this area are described in the book ‘Somawathiya wane divi mada’.

It’s flat open country side with paddy fields, water ways and bird life. Seems there are still some migratory birds left. Did not manage any good photos of birds, but this will give you an ideas of how many there were at the water holes.

This kind of carts are apparently typically used by the Muslim and Tamil communities in the East and are supposed to be easy to maneuver over sandy and uneven terrain, as well as being a very ‘silent’ vehicle, but the weight to the animal is greater.

this will give you an ideas of how many there were at the water holes

This kind of carts are apparently typically used by the Muslim and Tamil communities in the East

Mavil Aru:
We crossed the now so famous river, if you want to see THE sorowva you apparently need to have a hardy vehicle or walk. We made do with watching the effort it takes to open even a well functioning anicut (? Is that what a sorowwa is called in English?).

The Mavil Aru war memorial is just by the road, and is here reflected in the water

The Mavil Aru war memorial is here reflected in the water

Seruwila Temple:

The approach is past a wawe, excellent place to explore – birds, flowers were in plenty.

Seruwila Temple as seen over the lake

Nelum covered Ganthalawa village tank

I tend to think of the over size nelum as ‘Bangkok Lotus’ but seems it common in this area.

In addition to the main Dagaba, there is a lot to take in. Take a look at the archaeological museum which few people seem to know exists. Some stunning artifacts. There seems to be some discussion as to whether this is a Buddha statue, if so, possibly Mahayana, or if it is a Jain statue. There was no one there to explain we relied on a book we had (PL Sirisena’s, book no. 1 in the above list) for information. If you go there count the different number of heads on the Naga figures, some are 7 some are 9, some are less.

In addition to the main Dagaba, there is a lot to take in

Is this a Buddha statue, if so, possibly Mahayana, or if it is a Jain statue

Road to Echchanpattu:

More like a ‘take it if you dare’ track across the sand. As the Mahawali estuary spreads itself, its hard to say what is the sea, what is the river. The sheer size of the Mahawali delta and the flood plains really hits you. We took this ‘road’ to connect from Seruvila to Echchanpattu to go to Lanka Patuna. I strongly suggest that if you decide to take this route, you have a good vehicle – or even more important a confident and skilled driver, as well as a sense of direction/ GPS/map/information. Its not a huge distance, but still has the potential to be troublesome.

The sheer size of the Mahawali delta and the flood plains really hits you

‘take it if you dare’ track across the sand

Lanka Patuna:

So follow up of my question from the Yala beach (why is the sand red? )

why is the sand so black? What makes is glisten so much? Note the little stars of light in the photo.

And ….why are there so many corals (not sure of what you call these individual ‘rocks’ of coral) washed up in the sand? Or is it that we noticed them due to the contrasting black of the sand. I do hope people will not feel the urge to pick them up and take them home. If so the beach will soon be plain black.

why are there so many corals

is it that we noticed them due to the contrasting black of the sand

I do hope people will not feel the urge to pick them up and take them home

This is an unbelievably lovely stretch of beach.
The sea all sorts of shades of green and blue, the beach yellow, black, the white corals, and real dry zone vegetation – lots of cactus.

Cactus growing in profusion on the beach

The black and yellow of the beach merge with the shades of blue and turquoise of the water and the white of the surf and corals.

I think we saw this beach because we took that ‘sand road’, most people seem to approach Lanka Patuna from South of the bridge, we arrived north of it.

The vehicles are parked on the southern side (top end of the picture) and you walk across, we arrived from the north (right corner of the picture).

Fishing at the ‘moya kate’…The net is laid in a spiral using the sticks, as the water rises the fish will get caught in the maze, all the fisherman has to do is to scoop them up as the water recedes. True it makes a nice picture (blue, white, green and brown..even the sarong and boats!), but… I’d hate to be a fish.

Below is the route we took from Seruvila to Lanka Patuna. I have combined the 1:50,000 sheets no. 28 (Trinco) and no. 33 (Kathiraveli). I am not sure if the line of brown arrows I have drawn to show the route around Ullackali Lagoon is clear. You simply – or not so simply! – go around it. The damaged bridge is just where the two maps meet above ( once again the brown text might not be clear). Verual and the road to Batti is going south.

[Mao coming Soon!]

Verugal, yet another estuary of the Mahawali delta:

Seems very soon there will be no more ferry’s along the east coast. The bridge here is almost complete, construction vehicles already travelling on it. Its certainly a good thing for those who live in the area, and for travelers in a hurry. But …a bit of excitement of travel taken away…

very soon there will be no more ferry’s along the east coast

Lots of interesting statues in this historical kovila by the river

And a few more photos of the rest of the days:

Jelly fish: I’ve seen jelly fish only twice and both in Trinco. Last time they were small and pinkish. Very different to this huge blue ‘mushroom’ .. Would love to have a bit of info on this…?

Girihandu Saye: Its such a lovely spot, in the middle of the forest so near the sea. Must be stunning at sun rise and sun set. Its possible to stay the night here at the visharama shalawa. There is a young monk who looks after the place, and can tell you lots of interesting stories…we forgot to take any pirikara with us and regretted it.

Gal Palama at Girihandu Saya – I’ve started getting a fetish for Gal Palam. Been to the 2 in A’pura and one in Mahakandarawa. I heard there is one in a place called Sudarshanagama in the Kakirawa area but we could not locate it. Any one has a clue?

I’ve seen jelly fish only twice and both in Trinco

Gal Palama at Girihandu Saya

Sea and vatadage of Girihandu Saya

There is a stunning photo in the Studio Times book ‘Eloquence in Stone’ of a place called Nagathambarani – Naga curved on rock – just beyond Girihandu Saye in Thiriyaya. Seems like an interesting place to explore. I saw it only after we returned. So, got to go again!!!