The Map

This is trip number 21 for me all within 10 months but sadly I had to say ADIOS to my trip partners Keerthi, Niroshan, Charitha & Darshana(2). I would like to thank them for everything!

ADIOS to my trip partners Keerthi, Niroshan, Charitha & Darshana

This was an official journey to Monaragala so we took the night bus at 11.45p.m from Colombo and it was a long journey until we arrived at Wellawaya at 5.30a.m.

We had breakfast and traveled back on the Thanamalwila road until we arrived at Buduruwagala junction (5Km from Wellawaya) from here it was 4Km towards Buduruwagala. We had to walk all the way because there weren’t any three-wheelers, but we never regretted. The walk was wonderful because we were able to enjoy the breath taking view of Buduruwagala Lake at sun rise. After about 1Km from the lake we reached Buduruwagala which was a very peaceful place in the dense forest. After going through the history leaflets which we carried we walked back the 4Km until we came to the junction near the main road. If anyone of you is planning to go there you must visit the museum at Buduruwagala junction because here you can learn a lot about all other historical sites at Uva-Wellassa.

Quote: View Source

Buduruwagala is located about 5 km from the Wellawaya on the Thanamalwila road. The name Buduruwagala means “the rock with the statue of Buddha” And this is exactly what it is. Seven figured are carved in this rock with a massive 51 foot Buddha statue in the Abhaya Mudra gesture at the centre. The rock it self has shape of a kneeling elephant with its head own. Although there is no documented information about this site in the ancient scriptures, Different historians have dated these statues from the 6th centuary to late Anuradhapura period. (between 8 – 10 Century). These carvings are of the Mahayana Buddhist style and belongs to the Pallawa- Sri Lankan art tradition. and similar to the statues at Dova Temple.

The tallest Buddha statue in the world was the Bamiyan Buddha statues in Afghanistan until the destruction of this ancient monument by the Taliban in March 2001. The Buduruwagala Buddha Statue is now considered the tallest in the world.

The centre statue is flanked by two statues which each about 40 foot in height. These two again flanked by two figures, one female and the other male.

The centre figure on the left (as you stand in front) still has most of the plaster and some paint which has been applied by the ancients. This centre figure is thought to be of the figure of Avaloktheeshvara Bodhisattva (the manifestation of all the Buddha’s’ compassion in the Mahayana Buddhist teaching – In Theravada Buddhism Avaloktheeshvara is known as Lokesvara). He is identified by the small image of the meditating Buddha in the crown that he wares. This image can be clearly seen the carving. The bare breasted female figure on the right to this is thought be Thara Devi, the spritual consort of Avaloktheeshvara Bodhisattva. She is carved in a ‘thivanka’ position (bent in 3 places) and is wearing a tall head dress. The other is thought to be their son Prince Sudana.

On the right is 3 similar figures. And the centre figure is thought to be the Maithri Bodhisattva. He is the fifth Buddha for this eon. On the left is the Vajirapani Bodhisattva ( Sanskrit Vajra : thunderbolt/diamond, Pani : lit in the hand). He is one of the earliest bodhisattvas of Mahayana Buddhism. He is generally represented with a diamond club in his hand)

On the way to Buduruwagala

Dawn at Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala lake

Greenish lake

Buduruwagala

Buddha statue

The hole with symbol of lamp flame near the right foot of Bodisathwa

Avaloktheeshvara Bodisatva center Aryathara Right Prince Sudhana Left

Maithri Bodhisathva Center Vajrapani Left

a sculpture at The museum

Artifacts

We took a bus from here and our next stop was at Yudaganawa junction just before Buttala town and it was a 1.5Km walk until we came across Chulangani Stupa and ruins which had its own history. 500M away was the gigantic Yudaganawa stupa which is said to be the largest in Sri Lanka. There were some old paintings in the Image House at Yudaganawa & guess what there was a board put up saying “Do not take photographs” but this time the caretaker gave us a reason (The Flash may destroy the paintings) so we obeyed him and snapped around without a flash.

Quote: Yudaganawa [Source]

Yudaganawa Temple is located close to Buttala on the Wellawaya– Buttala Road. This is one of the largest Stupas in the country and dates back to 2 nd century BC. This is thought to be place price Tissa and his brother price Gamini (Later The great king Dutugemunu) had a major battle after the death of his father King Kavanthissa (2 nd century BC)

The Rajavaliya descries this battle

“…. Prince Gemunu coming to know that his father has died, left Kothmale and arriving at the city of Magama, sent word to prince Tissa requesting him to dispatch the mother and the tusker, who was born on the same day. But prince Tissa did not heed that request. Letters were sent 3 times and when there was no response prince Gemunu setout to fight, taking with him his men. The two brothers met each others at Yudaganapitiya. Thirty thousand soldiers of prince Gemunu fell in the battlefield and and taking defeat he started to flee. When Prince Tissa was chasing after his brother, the maha sanga came and blocked his way, and noticed that prince Tissa returned to Digamadulla. ………..”

This colossal stupa with a circumference of 317 meters (1038 feet) was initially thought to be a Kota Vehera. A large stupa built half way and a smaller stupa built on top of that. There are 4 such stupas around the country with minor differences.

1. Dadigama Kota Vehera
2. Dealiwala Kota Vehera at Rambukkana
3. Damila Maha Seya at Polonnaruwa
4. Lahugala Kota Vehera

But according to the Dr. W.H. Wijepala, Director-General of Archaeology, the recent excavations have proved that this was a not a Kota Vehera but a complete stupa at one time. This stupa is also known as “Kinkini Stupa” among the locals.

After thousands of years of negligence, stupa is now under restoration. You can still see massive trees on the upper platform of the stupa which has not been uprooted yet. Also waking around the stupa you can see the platform of the stupa has been cleared after excavating about 3 feet.

Just before the Yudaganawa car park you will pass a small stupa on the road side. This is identified as the “Chulangani Viharaya” belonging to the 12th century. But the Buddha statues inside the image house (see photos) have been dated to the 6-7th centuries.

Chulangani Viharaya	Fallen statues at Chulangani Viharaya
Yudanganawa stupa	Yudanganawa stupa with the image houdse in back drop
Image house	King Dutugamunu
Paintings from Kanday Era	More paintings

We came back to Buttala and had lunch an got in to a Maligawila bus and we did visit Dematamal Viharaya(6Km from Buttala) & Maligawila ruins(12-14Km from Buttala) and returned back to Buttala in a three-wheeler(Transport issues) .

Quote: Dematamal Viharaya [source]

The Dematamal Viharaya is located at Helagama on the Buttala-Okkampitiya road which leads to the Maligawila Buddha Statues. The temple lies about 4 km from the Buttala town.
Located in the middle of paddy field, you can see the dark coloured Stupa and the bo-tree surrounded by the green paddy from the road itself. Though much attention is not paid by the average tourist the history of the temple complex is said to date back to the 3rd century BC.
It is believed that this is the temple that prince Tissa hid from his brother prince Gamini (some times called Gemunu, later king Dutugemunu) after a major battle for power at the location now called Yudaganawa.
After the death of King Kavanthissa (2 nd Century BC), the two sons, price Gamini and prince Tissa had two major battles in the struggle for power. Legend says that the first battle at the Yudaganawa was won by Tissa.
But the second battle was won by Gamini and Tissa unable to flee far, hid inside this temple knowing the brother will never violate a Buddhist temple. Prince Gamini chasing after his brother realised he was inside the temple and asked chief incumbent Ven. Gonashanka Tissa thero whether his brother was inside the temple. The thero unable to lie refused to answer the prince.
The historic Rajavaliya (The tale of the Royal Dynasty) describes this battle :
“……. Prince Gemunu again, raising afresh army set out to fight, but considering that it would not be possible to fight with the tamils if his soldiers were destroyed in fighting among themselves he sent a letter saying “Let the two of us have a fight between us and let the victor have the country”. Accordingly prince Tissa mounted the tusker Kadol and the Gemunu the mare at Yudaganapituya they met head on. Prince Gemunu got his mare to leap over the Tusker Kadol while he stuck Tissa with the back of his sward. The tusker Kadol thought “on my back is a woman, on the mare’s back is a man” and dropped prince Tissa to the ground.
Thereupon prince Tissa fled and prince Gemunu, chased after him with the thought of catching him and putting him in the chains lest he would raise armies again to fight. Prince Tissa took shelter among the monks while prince Gemunu ran after him and stood guard at the entrance of the temple. The monks saw prince Tissa entering the temple and prince Gemunu taking chase. Thereupon the monks who were seated stood up and those standing sat down. The monks were asked “Sirs where is prince Tissa who just came here?” They replied “Those of us who are standing or those seated have not seen him. Two novices carried Tissa as though carrying a corpse of a monk wrapped up in yellow robes out of the temple premises. Prince Gemunu remarked “There goes Tissa on the shoulders of the Sanga into the impermanent of Sansara,” and taking with him his mother Viharamahadevi and also the tusker Kadol proceeded to the city of Magama………..”

Later the chief thero is said to have brought peace among the brothers who worked side by side thereafter.
The name of the temple “Dematamal” also has its own legends. One legend says this area was called Detu-mal meaning “I saw (found) the brother”, which happened at the Viharaya. And later became Dematamal.
Another legend says that once peace was brought within the brothers, prince Tissa was in charge of the area and he cultivated the land and it was very rich in harvest. During this time Prince Gamini (now King Dutu Gemunu) was getting ready for the final battle with the South Indian invader King Elara who was ruling the Sri Lankan capital Anuradhapura, seeing the prosperity of the area King Dutu Gemunu said to his brother “Govithen kala ethi male”. Meaning “We have done enough of farming now brother”. Because of this statement this area was called Ethi-Male which with time became Dematamal.
In addition to the peaceful and serene location, the temple ruins include pillars, guardstone , stone steps, an image house and a series of meditation cells.

This guardstone (muragala) is a unique sculpture as this shows a couple in an intimate position and behind the head of the man is a number of Cobra Heads. Generally all guard stones depict a Naga king carrying a pot of plenty and a long floral arrangement in the other hand. Such Stone can be seen at any ancient temple in Anuradhapura or Pollonaruwa (see guardstones at Vatadage in Pollonnaruwa and Asokaramaya in Anuradhapura)

Quote: Maligawila [source]

Maligawila lies about 15 kilometres off the Buttala town towards Okkampitiya. Famous for its giant free standing buddha statue of the 7th century, this monument was found fallen and broken in to pieces in 1951. An attempt was made in 1974 to raise this statue and failed. But in 1980 a local engineering team was able to raise this statue and restore it back to the ancient glory. This statue is carved out of a single limestone rock and stands about 14.5 metres high. This is the tallest free standing buddha image in the country. This statue is thought to be done by a prince called Aggabodhi who ruled the “Rohana” region of Sri Lanka in the 7th century. There has been a image house surrounding this gigantic statue. The remains of this image house can still be seen.

About 500 metres away from this is another image carved from rock. This is thought to be the image of the Maithree Natha Bodhisattva also some times identified as Avalokithswara Bodhisattva. This image also called Dambegoda Bodhisattva statue.

Just left to the stair way to the Bodhisattva statue you will find a pillar inscription protected by a newly built structure. This stone pillar has been placed by the king Mahinda IV (956-972 AD) on his 10th year of reign. This inscription records the work done by the king for the upliftment of the Buddhism and has some rules laid down by him in Administration of Buddhist sites.

Dematamal Viharaya	Dematamal Dhageba
Ulgala	Image house
Unique guard stone	Ruins at Dematamal Viharaya
Inscription at Maligawila	On the way to the Bodhisattva statue
Avalokithswara Bodhisattva	Buddha statue at Maligawila

From Buttala took a bus to Monaragala and unpacked our bags at our rest place and off we went to Galabedda which was 12Km (262Km post) away on the Potuvil route. Here we came across the famous Biso Kotuwa & the ancient ruins of a toilet but because it was the dry season the pond was empty 🙁

The Biso-kotuwa complex at Galabedde 9 km from Moneragala on the Pottuvil road includes an interesting sluice gate ponds, moats, ramparts and the remains of a palace of a local princess Sugala Devi dating from the 12th century A.D. The swimming pool of the princess in the palace garden is one of the masterpieces of ancient Sinhala architecture

Galabedda Biso kotuwa	Another view of the pond
At Galabedda	Ancient toilets at Galabedda Biso kotuwa

At around 5p.m we returned back towards Monaragala. We got down at a place which is 5Km from Monaragala town to visit the cave temple of Mayuragiri which was on the Monaragala Mountain. We wanted to climb to the top of the mountain and enjoy the view of the Monaragala region but it was too late. Before we came back we did visit few caves out of the hundreds.

Mauragira Cave temple

A cave at Mauragira

Mauragiri temple

Next day after finishing our official stuff we decided to rush back to Colombo but it rained heavily and altered our plan. At around 1p.m we got on to a Colombo bus and returned back. On the way trough Udawalawe I was able to get some good shots though the bus was travelling at a speed of 60Km/h.

At the boarder of Udawalawe

Was traveling at 60 Km per Hour

Udawalawe reservoir

Other archeological sites to visit
1. Yatiyallatota Ruins
2. Handapaanagala Kanabisawarama Ancient Dhageba
3. Sellaba Raja maha viharaya ruins
4. Keheliya Raja maha viharaya ruins
5. Ganulpotha raja maha viharaya ruins
6. Muppane Raja maha viharaya at Viharamulla
7. Kataragama Kiri wehera
8. Buttala – Alutwela viharaya ruins
9. Veherayaya ruins
10. Kawudawa Raja maha viharaya
11. Kahambana Tis Len Raja maha viharaya
12. Meegahapitiya Raja maha viharaya
13. Ritigahawatta kadala viharaya ruins
14. Sripana archeological reserve
15. Ihawa- Madulla purana viharaya ruins
16. Wattegama Raja maha viharaya ruins
17. Andawelayaya Kinkiniya Raja maha viharaya
18. Ruhunu Katargama Maha dewalaya & Torana
19. Pilimahela archeological reserve