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Manawila Bungalow, Manawila Tank, Wildlife Safari, Wilpattu, Wilpattu National Park, Two Days, January, Dry Zone, Wetlands, National Park, Birds, Wildlife, History, Scenic Drive, By Location, 2016, Archaeology, Photograhy, Road Trip

Author: Sri Abeywickrema (117 Trips)

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Hi everyone, hope everything is well and you’re having a rock-n-roll time with the excellent weather after the downpours. It’s best you make hay while sun shines as this dry season will then become unbearable. After the Galagama Ella Journey, which left me down and injured ruining the entire holiday season, I spent time recuperating and when Hasi put forward the idea of visiting Wilpattu, I couldn’t have been happier.

So this is going to be my Pictorial Story about our visit to the most prestigious wildlife park in Sri Lanka which is renowned for the Holy Grail of Wildlife, the Leopard. Before you get any ideas about seeing some lustrous leopard sightings, I might as well make you disappoint right now. There are no pictures of the leopards in this report. The reason; well it’s quite simple. We didn’t come across any, that’s why there are no pictures.

One needs to be extremely lucky to come across leopards and bears and even luckier to get pictures of them. However we either weren’t that lucky, at least not just yet or others have already used up our luck without us being present. The way Dhana, Harsha and Rajiv have taken pictures of leopards in Wipattu, I wonder if there’re any more opportunities left for casual travelers like us. So go to Dhana’s report which I’ve given above for some sensational leopard sightings. However, we did come across the second mostly sought after animal, Sri Lankan Sloth Bear. It was when we were down and out and ready to leave the park.

So guys, go grab a mug of hot choco closer and put your legs up on the table and get comfortable. You’re in for a longer night, not with another of my fairy tales, but a story being narrated by the owners of Wilpattu. Yeah, they are unquestionably the very owners of the Wilpattu National Park. I have no right to tell their story when they were quite willingly offered to do it for me. So I’m just playing the messenger and hopefully you won’t feel like shooting the messenger.

They also wanted to pass a message to the seemingly deaf powers-that-be which I’ve enclosed at the end of the report. I’m just being their voice because they have no means to rise against the injustice being forced upon them and their homeland. They can’t hire posh lawyers to represent them at the courts. Worst of all, they are not registered to vote thus no politician will look at them favorably. So folks, this is the story of the Wildlife of Wilpattu.

23 Jan

One of the treasures unearthed from the Wilpattu Jungle

At the ticket counter

The detailed map

“Good morning, my name is Woolly-Necked Stork and welcome you to the Wilpattu National Park”

“I’ve been searching for the past hour but nothing worth eating”

“Do I look tall?”

“Ok, go on and see how beautiful this place is”

“Hello, it’s me the Common Kingfisher. Even though my name says common, I’m not so common”

I’m a Bittern but not many people take notice of me coz I don’t look so gorgeous”

“Hello, I’m probably one of the most innocent ones in the jungle despite my antlers”

“Naturally I’m wary of strangers”

“Say hi to my wife”

“She’s curious too”

“You’ll meet my friends on the way”

“Here we are”

“It was cold during the night so we’re taking a sunbath”

The gorgeous roads inviting you to explore more

“Hi, I’m the Crested Serpent Eagle”

“Been looking for a prey since morning”

“You’re frightening my breakfast”

“Won’t you go if you’re done with your darn cameras?”

“Here, I’m serious, get out of here”

The roads have become muddy and traps for jeeps

“Hello, I’m the National Bird in Sri Lanka”

“I’m the Great Thick Knee and taking a break after breakfast”

“Hey folks, here are some people wanting to shoot you”

“I guess I’ve got a tick somewhere here”

Shady paths

“Hello friends, you’re not gonna harm us, are you?”

“These young leaves are very tasty”

“I’m the Indian Peafowl, but please call me Peacock coz I like it better than the other”

“Do you know that I’m the Carrier for God Kataragama?”

One of the many villus full of water

“I’m the Black-Winged Stilt”

“I’m the Red-Wattled Lapwing or more commonly known as Kirala”

The road have turned into irrigation canals

Kumbukwila, famous for its beautiful Kumbuk Tress and as the only place where you can get down

Our jeep taking a much needed break

“Those eggs were too heavy for me to carry”

Having a bite

“We’re the nosy Wild Boars or Indian Boars and watch out for our strong horn in our snout”

“Time to run. Oh I bet you didn’t know that I’m portrayed as an avatar of God Vishnu in Ramayana and Puranas”

It was a treat to the eyes

“I’m a Sea Eagle and watching out for a snack”

I only wished if we could walk on a path like this

Very tempting

They get completely dried during the dry season in Aug

“We are the Lesser Whistling Ducks”

“Time for our morning swim”

“It’s full of food thanks to the rain”

Time to go on

“I’m the popular and gorgeous looking Green Bee Eater”

“It’s such a lovely morning, ain’t it?”

“Hello, can you see me?”

“Come on closer, don’t worry I’m harmless”

“How was your journey so far?”

“Have you seen the destruction done to this place?”

“Just having a bunch of them but have to pluck them carefully”

“Tasty”

“Check on us later”

“Oh hello”

“Need those essential minerals to keep us going”

“We’re not that colorful we know but aren’t we cute in a way?”

“Be careful when you drive past”

“My wife’s not so happy with me today”

“There she’s not even looking at me”

“I have to lie low for a bit”

“What are you talking with me husband?”

“How’s my feathers? Only for you I’m showing it off”

“Wonder how long she’ll be mad at me”

“I’m the Ceylon Paradise Flycatcher and very shy”

“I’m the Sri Lankan Jungle Fowl or Wali Kukula as many of you know”

“I’m beautiful but for some reason they’re calling me Wali Kukula which I hate”

“Gotta run and catch ya later”

“We’re used to being fed by people like you”

“It’s tough when you ignore us even though it’s the right thing to do”

“These rascals are asking for trouble by begging for food from you”

“Just managed to jump in before you caught me”

“But have to climb this to get into safe water”

“Don’t follow me unless you want some trouble”

“See you guys later”

“Hi, heard you met one of my buddies before”

“Looking for something easy to catch”

“My neck is very flexible”

“Guess it’s time you guys went”

“You’ll come across many other friends”

Ok, how was the journey so far? I’m sure they kept you entertained and it’s time we went to the bungalow and settled down a bit before the evening safari. Of course we are hungry too as we had our breakfast around 9am at the Kumbukwila. Not to mention the egg hoppers we had around 3.30am just before Wilpattu Junction. Ok, the Manawila Bungalow too has her story and you gonna have to listen to her too. Here is her chance and let her know if you’ll like to go stay with her.

“Hi I’m the Manawila located 37km from the entrance, my sister Kokmote is another 12km from here

“From one side”

“I was renovated by the Navy boys couple of years ago”

“I’m spacious too”

“Where you can rest and sleep in the open”

“These will keep the insects away”

“Where you can dine”

“I take great care of you and your health”

“If you’re scared to sleep on the verandah, use this”

“Or even this”

“Don’t walk about especially in the evening or at night”

“This is the motor that gives you water for bathing”

“This usually goes down by Aug”

So, did you like her story? While you were listening to her, we had a sumptuous lunch with fried tank fish and it’d started to rain too. So we were confined to the bungalow for about 2 hours but miraculously the rains eased coz Lady Wilpattu pushed the rain clouds away paving the way for us to explore some more. Right, there are a lot of others to meet us and you, so let’s not keep them waiting.

“I’m the Black-Headed Ibis and I love water”

“Gosh I think my beak is stuck”

“Managed to pull it out and it was scary”

“Oh, somebody help”

“Wait, I’m coming”

“Hold it, I’m coming too”

“That Ibis is always taking you for a ride, don’t fall for his tricks”

“Hi, heard two of my friends met you before”

“You’ve taken enough pictures of them so I’ll just hide and wait”

“It’s so hot out there buddy, so we’re taking a break”

“Hurry up son, I can hear a vehicle”

“I’m hungry mom, just wait for a minute”

“Mom, don’t go, wait I’m coming”

Great hiding places for the crocs

“Hello, did you see my friend?”

“Here’s a lot better coz it’s evening time”

“These plants are a bit dusty”

“Have to be careful otherwise I’ll get mighty tummy ache”

“Do you like the setting with the lone tree?”

“Send me a copy of that pic, will ya”?

Heading back to the bungalow

“Hello, have you forgotten the Sri Lankan Sambar?”

“Just having an early supper”

“So you’re going back to the base?”

“Well, hurry it up then before it’s dark”

“Don’t tell the leopard you saw me around here”

“See what will happen if you do that”

Dusk setting in

Dead tree art

“Gosh, did they see us?”

“Let’s quietly go”

Sun setting over the Manawila Tank

Good day Wilpattu!

“Don’t you catch me coz I’m not that Kimbul Huna”

“I don’t like you taking closer shots of me”

“Tell that I need a doctor coz this arm is swollen”

How did you like the rest of the evening? We were still not that lucky to have come across the most sought after thing in Wilpattu, the leopard. However, we were not disappointed coz there were many others who came to see us and introduced themselves. The leopards on the other hand were too shy to come say hi or they were downright proud of themselves and decided to prolong our agony.

Our caretakers had prepared a delicious dinner and without waiting any longer, we sat and devoured the meal to find we were very hungry. Or, did I tell you those rascals at Kumbukwila stole our eggs, a whole 15 of them with the bag but found it too heavy and dropped them about 20ft high onto the ground cracking them open. The bag was full of hay (which were to keep them from breaking), egg shells and a pint of yellow liquid when we found it, a little too late for our liking. Thankfully Senevi managed to get us some more in the evening via another jeep.

Well, we’re sleepy and the cool air coming from the Manawila Tank is refreshing and soothing. It made us sleepy and the mosquito nets kept us safe from all the insects humming about. While we got into the beds, there was a herd of deer that had come to nibble the fresh grass tips off the bungalow bordering the tank. Our torches picked up a herd with more than a dozen or so deer but we just left them alone and came to bed. Tomorrow we’ve gotta try and find these stubborn leopards and bears and then head home. Good night folks and see you in the morning!

24 Jan

Good morning and golly I slept like a log till 5.30am. It’d been raining in the night but I had no idea about it coz I was sound asleep like a hibernating grizzly. Feels like new and all I need is a wash and some hearty meal to go with but Hasi has a different plan. We’re gonna see some more friends and listen to them after a hot coffee. Come on and hop in our jeep.

“I’m a Crested Hawk Eagle and wonder how you saw me in the dark”

“I know the lighting is poor that’s why I turned my head around for you to take a good picture”

“Pretty cold morning”

“Well, must you go on like this?”

“We’re Asian Openbills”

“I’m taller than others, you see”

“Where did this Ibis come from”

“Come on out, I’m so hungry”

“Hey, can you see me?”

“How’s this pose?”

“I’m royal looking, huh?”

“Others no match for me”

“Ok, time I went”

“It’s tough to stay like this”

“What’s this Little Cormorant doing here?”

“Come on, let’s see how’s the strongest”

“Stop it right there. There’re people watching”

“Hide quickly before they go and tell the leopard about us”

“Oh my gosh”

“Are you gonna hurt me?”

“We better run”

“But wait, they seem harmless”

“Don’t just wait there like a zombie”

“But they said they need a portrait of me”

After a short safari we returned to the bungalow and had our breakfast while the caretakers packed our lunch. Still no luck with the leopard or bear but Senevi was hopeful and we were to head towards Panikkawila where the leopards had been sighted most inside Wilpattu. There were a few friends around the bungalow and they too have a story to tell us. Here’s their chance.

“Golly, is there another like me in the water?”

“Oh blimey, they saw me I think”

“Very scary”

“I told you not to go steal their things”

“I don’t think they will see me”

“Nobody in sight”

“Ok, here I go”

“It’s difficult to get onto this with this back pain”

“Hey Wal Ura, don’t you dare steal that”

“Must finish it before that Wal Ura comes”

“Missed it this time”

“Must go slowly”

“Here’s Wal Ura once again, somebody help”

“Those Wali Kukullu won’t let me have anything”

“Don’t look at me like that, I’m starving and angry”

“Do you see my sharp tooth?”

“Hey hu hu, Wal Ura hu hu”

“Oh now don’t you worry, I’ll help with the tics”

Oh, it’s us, it was good to have a small group

Senevi with his jeep, a very good person

Senevi, Tracker and our Caretakers

Well, everyone except me

I guess it’s time we went coz the time is flying when we’re not looking. We’re going for a day-long safari and will see you again at lunch time at Kumbukwila. Until then, enjoy the stories unfolding before us.

“What’s that noise?”

“Nothing to worry, I’ll just finish it before soon”

“Oh hi, where are you all going?”

“Well, I saw the leopard towards there”

“I’m trying my balancing act”

“Anything there?”

“Nothing there either, very disappointing day”

“I’m gonna have a twisted neck at this rate”

“Well, why don’t you guys move one before I do?”

“Oh, can’t you stop following me?”

“You’re making it worse, you know?”

“I’m getting real mad now”

“Managed to fly away”

“Oh you’re back”

“Please, just go away”

“Oh who’s gonna sacrifice themselves to this hungry croc?”

“Come on in, I won’t bite”

“Hey, my teeth are better than most of those on toothpaste ads”

“Stop boasting and shut your stinking mouth”

“Your blabbering scaring these fish away”

“Hey, how’s my double croc shadow?”

“Mine’s better than his”

“These crocs are mad”

“Honey wait, I’ve got a slight scratch here”

“Peenamuko Kalu Gange”, “This is Panikkawila Tank darling, not the Kalu Ganga”

“I was just singing for myself, you don’t have to get worked up”

“I’m the Great Egret”

“I’m the Intermediate Egret and better to just leave before that boasting one shouts its mouth off “

“I’ve gotta watch my beak”

“My name suits me huh? Black-Headed Ibis”

“This arthritis is killing me”

“Have to tread carefully”

“For you it’s fun watching my agony”

“Nothing worth eating around here”

Panikkawila Tank

“No sign of this Great Egret”

“Hey Ibis, shall we play a game?”

“Don’t follow me you brute”

“Stop poking at me”

“Must run, gosh my legs”

“Hi, wanna see our synchronizations?”

“Here we go then”

“Left and Right”

“Getting wider”

“And diving together, well it didn’t quite come off”

Serene paths

With our jeep

“Gosh these stupid ducks”

“Time to find something”

“Hello, is it me you looking for?”

Endless

Ramrod straight too

“Beautiful flowers these are”

“Oh, did you see me picking flowers?”

“Hu hu, we saw you silly Iguana”

“Hmm Hmm”

“Ayyo, this eye is killing me”

“Is someone watching me?”

“Anyone there?”

“Can’t see properly, must go see the doctor soon”

“Don’t know if they are behind me”

“It’s really itchy today”

“Andenawa Thani Ehata”

“Hey buddy, don’t run”

“Let’s hide, they saw us”

“Well I’m not worried”

“Come on you coward”

“Gosh, he never learns”

“What to do now?”

“Wait I’m coming too”

“Where did you hide now? They went come on out”

“Silly jackals, always like that”

“God, help me, I’m stuck”

“Good for you silly Lapwing”

“I’m practicing to go with one leg”

“You’re still here”

“These are juicy”

“Who’s taking pictures of my herd?”

“Don’t get angry, they seem friendly”

“But I don’t like the noise coming from their machines”

“Well, I can’t bother too much coz I’m hungry too”

“Hey, I asked you to stop it”

“You’re making me itchy with your curiosity”

“Gosh, this won’t stop”

“Team, let’s get away from here”

“But I can’t leave this”

Path leading to Panikkawila Bungalow

Another shot of it

Built high

Wooded paths making it really pleasing

Gosh, we had some first class sightings and are feeling the heat of the day. So we decided to come and have lunch at Kumbukwila as it’s the only place other than park bungalows where you can get down and have a meal. Please respect that rule coz we must help park authorities to maintain the law and order inside the park and not bother the wildlife too much. After all it’s their territory and we have no right to go and disturb their freedom.

There were a few other groups having lunch and discussing the day’s events. One group had seen a leopard and he’d been giving them a nice photo shootout and I went wild with envy as they narrated their experience with such excitement. “Why on earth they don’t come to see us?” I asked Senevi sadly. The rascals who roam around Kumbukwila begging and stealing food from the visitors were in full force. I wonder how long before there will have to take some stern measures to control them as they’ve become very bold and aggressive towards the visitors. After all it’s the fault of some of those ignorant people who’d fed them in the first place going against the park rules and regulations. Now those animals will have to pay the price if and when someone gets injured.

Here’s their story if you’re interested.

Built high

Wooded paths making it really pleasing

“Don’t cry, I’ll give you something to eat”

“Found any leftovers?”

“Nope, nothing”

“Hey, did you see my husband?”

“Yeah, he was playing cricket”

“Wonder where I kept this”

“Did you find it yet?”

Kumbuk tress at Kumbukwila

See the patterns

The tank nearby

The lunch was superb and after a short break we decided to go for the final push and see if the leopards and bears have changed their minds. It was a good day with grandeur sightings except for those two. So let’s see if we’re gonna get any lucky this time around.

“With this cold, can’t smell a thing”

“Looks like I’ll have to go see the doc”

“Is that the doc?”

“Hey, come see my teeth, I brush them every day”

“Eeek, the smell coming from his mouth”

In search of the leopards

Found only the paw marks; apparently the leopard too is sticking by the rule “Leave only the Footprints”

“Hey, do you see them taking pics of us?”

“Grrrr, grrrr”

“Gosh, won’t you let a crock take a nap?”

“Lunch was too heavy”

“Must start going to the gym again”

“Finally”

“I knew it was here”

“Mmmm, yummy”

“It’s so hot these days”

“Yeah, I guess I’ve got some boils over here”

“Did they see what we were doing?”

“I think we have to do something for them”

“Like this?”

“No no, just show off a bit”

“Hey stop doing it, they’re recording this”

“Oh seriously, I didn’t know”

“Can you see our shadows?”

“Oh yeah”

“How’s my act?”

“They are crazy ducks”

“Yeah, now they’ll stand on one foot”

“There they go”

“Only we know that we are punished for not doing homework”

“Let’s run quickly before the teacher sees us”

“Did you see them running away?”

Muddy paths

“Hey, you’ll break your neck”

“Gosh it was a narrow escape”

Going back after a failed hunt

“Hi, I heard the leopard was very mean to you”

“He does it all the time”

“Don’t worry, I heard there was a bear nearby”

“Yeah, towards there”

“Time you made a move otherwise you’ll miss the fella”

“Please go, I’m begging you”

“You are not listening, are you?”

Our hopes were like this at the end

It’s time to end our journey and head back to the main entrance coz the time is past 4pm. We’ve around 200km to go back so decided to turn around and head home feeling sad and down. However, our guardian angels didn’t wanna disappoint us altogether coz they’d kept the best, well not the very best, till the last moment. As we were leaving one other jeep stopped by and told Senevi that there’s a bear so we went and parked at the sighted location. There was nothing but the thick bushes but we waited patiently and this bear, having taken pity on us, came to see us even though he didn’t much look at us as he was solely interested in termites in the wet ground. Here’s his story and the rest of the journey.

“Hello, just thought I’d pop in and say hi”

“But no time to make small talk, I’m busy”

“Come on out you termites”

“Do I look like a Tar Barrel?”

“They wouldn’t come easy”

“Are you on this side?”

“Gosh, this is driving me nuts”

“Stop that clicking noise, you’re scaring the termites”

“I’ve got to dust my fur”

“Well, time you guys went”

“Hello, did you see that hungry bear?”

“He was so hungry and almost killed me”

“This shell is really a good thing, you know”

“How do I look?”

“I’ve got to get home before my wife finds out”

“Well, can’t go any faster”

“Yeah, it’s damaged after a fight with a leopard”

“Well, time to get going”

“I know I look ugly to many”

“See you sometime”

“Hey, how’s my balancing?”

“Very much like you, you silly cormorant”

“This is how you walk on lotus leaves”

“You’ll sink in no time”

The first tank you come across when you enter Wilpattu

“Hey, give our regards to your friends”

Nice way to end the day

Some more

Please adhere to this. This is the only leopard we managed to picture

Saying goodbye

In a nutshell

Ticket Counter

Well guys, what do you think? We were duly rewarded by that single bear and all the frustration welling inside us vanished into thin air even though there was this slight nagging feeling of not having seen a leopard. Well, in a way it’s good coz it’ll make us go there soon. Have you heard that hopes help people live? Well the hopes of seeing that Holy Grail will keep us going. Well, if you think the stories are over, you’re mistaken coz we’ve got a story of a small family to tell you before we wrap it up. Here it is and we met them on the road to the park about 1km from the entrance.

“Hey, we’re going for an evening stroll”

“You’re going to get us killed mum”

“Do like this and you’ll be safe”

“Hey, why on earth you left us here?”

That’s the story of the Wilpattu and I hope you liked it as much as we did. It was a great pleasure to have been acquainted with all those beautiful creatures of the Mother Nature. Some of them were very forward and enthusiastic to talk to us while some of them shied away, most notably the leopard, probably due to the meanness shown towards them by the reckless travelers and the dangers posed to their homeland by some maniac politicians.

It’s always a great pleasure to go and be able to see these wonderful creatures of Mother Nature in their natural habitats. Unfortunately sheer commercialization and reduction of the remaining forest areas have created so many problems for them and at this rate there’ll be very little for us to go and see. Ok, this is supposed to be their story so it’s time I stopped my narration and sign off.

Take care of yourself and also our precious wildlife, forest and waterfalls whenever you can. Do no matter how small it is to the betterment of them. You’ll be duly rewarded in time. This is Sri saying goodbye and will see you guys again.

By the way, don’t forget to their plea before you sign off.

Here’s the plea from the true owners, the Wildlife, of Wilpattu:

“Dear Mr. President, we thought the so-called good governance which was the main motto in your campaign would apply to the wildlife as well, not just for those who voted for you. We’re sure that you know it’s not our fault we are not given the voting powers to choose the kind of leader we prefer. We do not demand that useless power either. We were highly impressed when you, as the president, kept the Ministry of Environment under your own portfolios in addition to the Defense Ministry unlike other presidents whose primary interest was in Finance.

 Our hopes soared sky high because we felt that you were giving us the due recognition and safety under your leadership. We thought you’d realized how much the wildlife of this country had been abused by the so-called people’s leaders and environmental enthusiasts. We’ve been shown to the world in every possible way paving the way for more income both from local and foreign tourists. It’s because of us politicians can boast about the rich bio-diversity in this tiny island and make more money towards the betterment of this country and its people.

They have earned billions of dollars thanks to us but very little of those was spent for the welfare of us. The money was spent instead to build highways, ports, airports and feed some 20 million people. Not to forget the large chunks which went missing god knows where. They spent peanuts on us but the dangers to us increased by many times every passing day. The forests were at the mercy of loggers and poachers who had the political backing to slaughter our friends at will. Our homelands were destroyed at an unprecedented rate confining us to tiny patches of woodlands with nothing much to feed on.

Our elder brothers, the wild elephants were the most affected by this destruction. They were forced into wildlife parks and most of their homes were either given to farming or settling people down. Your decision to call them ‘Wana Ali’ instead of ‘Wal Ali’ made no difference coz it didn’t help them in anyway. Whether they were ‘Wana’ or ‘Wal’, they need a place to live. Not just a few acres of useless forest patches which have been raped by loggers over and over again, but a complete forest with no dangers posed on them. We don’t feel bad of you or anyone calling them ‘Wal Ali’. You can call us anything for that matter so long as you let us live in peace and leave us alone.

Unfortunately, we haven’t seen any progress shown during your tenure so far for the well-being of us. Instead you continue to watch the destruction of Wilpattu and its sub forest areas by your close political allies. The waterfalls are being destroyed in the name of hydro-electricity. What we don’t understand is why don’t you utilize the sunlight, wind and sea tides you get 100% free to the maximum before destroying us?

We hope you’ll at least now pay attention and do something instead of preaching around wherever you go about the importance of us. We’ve nobody else to seek help from so please hear us out and do something to protect what’s left of us for the future generations of this country including your sons, daughters and grandchildren. May you gain the strength and the wisdom before it’s too late!

Yours sincerely,

The wildlife of Wilpattu.”