Copyright Notice: Please obtain permission from the author before duplicating, re-publishing or adapting content of a trip report
	Be a responsible traveler! Watch this video before you hit the road! Download Video: MP4|3gp
	Do you like to contribute a Trip Report? learn how to or download template and start straight away!

Tags & Author Archive

Heritance Tea Factory, Hethersett, Kadugannawa, Kandapola, Nuwara Eliya, Two Days, November, Wet Zone, Mountains, History, 2012

Author: Hasitha KM (6 Trips)

Ads by Google

This was a long waited leisure trip for us to get away from the tight schedules and relax in the cool climates enjoying beauty of the up country. Our selection this time was one sensational hotel, the Heritance Tea Factory to enjoy a comfortable stay with lovely meals within the beautiful landscapes and creations in the surrounding. This week end was spent entirely among Ceylon Tea which was all about a stay in a ‘Tea Factory’ surrounded by an enchanting Tea garden while observing and learning the process of producing ‘Ceylon Tea’.

It was 4.30 a.m. when we started from Kadawatha. Our first stop was Kadugannawa Ambalama.

Shelter since ancient times

After spending some time there we again got down for some ‘clicks’ at Kadugannawa tunnel, the famous creation of Capt. Dosan. We had only a limited number of stops on the way as our target was to reach the hotel for lunch.

Historical gateway to Kanda Uda Rata

History… – Click Image to Enlarge

Thereafter we had our breakfast at Bentota Bake House, Peradeniya. This is a good place that serves good food which is known to me from the time I was in the University of Peradeniya. The place is located around 500m before Peradeniya town, close to CEB station. It was around 7.30 a.m. when we left Peradeniya after having breakfast. Kandy was our next destination as we had some other engagements. Then before leaving Kandy, as usual we worshiped the Temple of Tooth and it was 12.15 p.m. when we left Kandy. Although it was a Saturday, traffic flow from Kandy up to Gampola was high and could not have a free drive.

After reaching Nuwara Eliya, we turned to Uda Pussellawa road and reached Kandapola. It is around 8 km to Kandapola from the turn off in Nuwara Eliya. Direction boards are provided and it is easy to find the Way to the hotel. From Kandapola town, there is an ascending road to the right where it should be traveled another 4km to reach the hotel. First 3km of the road is concreted and the final segment is paved with tar. The road is narrow and two vehicles can pass only at certain places where space is provided.

Road to hotel from Kandapola – First 3 km

Road to hotel from Kandapola – Final stretch

We managed to get to the hotel at 2.28 p.m., just 2 minutes before the official closing time of the lunch buffet.

After having lunch we had a look around the hotel as the hotel itself has a lot to explore.

The hotel once had been a graceful Tea factory named ‘Heathersett Tea Factory’ standing in the middle of the Hethersett estate producing a collection of finest tea to the world under the brand ‘Hethersett’ since 1890’s. The factory had been closed down and abandoned in 1968 declaring that its machinery is outdated and hence uneconomical. Later this colonial monument was transformed to a unique theme hotel in 1992, preserving its features to a considerable level including the outer appearance of the building. The iron structure of the building, the conventional factory elevator, some machinery, factory engines and many other features of the original factory has been preserved and blended with modern architecture to come up with this magnificent creation.

The hotel. The entire outer appearance and the iron structure remain exactly as the British planters had left them

Another view

Yes, the tradition is alive. Starts experiencing it no sooner you move in beyond this point

Usually, in a Tea factory, all the upper floors are occupied by withering troughs and other machinery is located on the ground floor. When converting this to a hotel, they have located rooms on the upper floors and the lobby, restaurant, bar, Tea counter, etc. on the ground floor.

Many other structures inside the hotel as well as in the surrounding have been made up using parts of the machinery and other structures of the old factory. Certain areas inside are still occupied by the structures of the old factory which are preserved at the original locations where they have been for over 100 years.

A huge engine of the old factory is installed in the basement. This is one of the two engines that had been used to run the two generators which powered the whole factory. Every day in the evening (6.30p.m.) they run this engine and the preserved machinery inside the hotel, to give the factory ambience.

Huge single cylinder engine manufactured in 1930’s in England

Engine and the connected machinery

More connections. Running every day at 6.30 p.m.

In the lobby area and at the reception desk, can see some furniture fabricated using parts of the old machinery. The conventional factory elevator is used still as the hotel elevator. Photos expressing the historical moments of the factory/hotel are displayed in the lobby with explanatory notes. There is a Tea counter where you can buy different types of Tea and souvenirs too.

Reception desk. Table is fabricated using machine parts

Plenty of awards. Note how the table is made up

Conventional factory elevator is now the hotel elevator

The lobby

Lobby – another view

The art of Tea

Tea counter. Mr. James Taylor, the pioneer of Ceylon Tea is standing at the corner

Expressing the rich history

Rooms are elegantly designed. Conventional large windows of the Tea factory have been taken as room windows. Rooms are equipped with all common facilities/utensils to match the four star standard. In addition to the common features such as Tea/Coffee making facility, all needs for the stay are provided such as bottled drinking water, bath slippers, toothpaste, tooth brushes etc. every attached Bathroom is equipped with a bath tub. In addition they provide a plate of strawberry with chocolate and a collection of short eats too, for the room. This is like a model hotel room seen in Sri Lanka.

Inside the room

Yummy…

Bath room

Everything provided

Restaurant is another interesting creation. Several structures such as buffet tables are fabricated using parts of the machinery of the old factory. Like in the lobby, there are some preserved structures of the old factory. The place is very well designed and the service is superb. The food was great.

The Kenmare restaurant

Elegance

Buffet. Old machinery blended with modern architecture

Live action corner

Dessert corner. Carts made up of Tea chests

Sri Lankan curry corner

A tea cart made up of Tea chests

In addition there is a collection of photos expressing the history of the factory in the basement. There is a gym and a spa too.

The Misty Mountain Spa

Inside the Spa

The staff is very friendly and dedicated to serve the visitors. The service is exceptional. From the moment they receive us, the stay flows among the courteous smiles and care of the staff. In and around the hotel, wherever you go, your requirements will be fulfilled by them. Even in the dining area, staff there will have a friendly chat with you, get to know about you, and try to satisfy you with whatever the ways possible.

Then we got out to enjoy the evening in the garden. Within minutes whole area gets covered by a veil of mist and again gets cleared off.

Submerged in mist

Icy breeze through the mist

Then we had the dinner at the restaurant. It was a very nice buffet with a good variety. While enjoying our meals, we observed a very special thing. At once three members of the restaurant staff appeared with a decorated cart with a cake and some fireworks while a congratulating song played in the background and stopped at a couple next to us. That couple had come there for their wedding anniversary. Restaurant staff has come to know this and offered this surprise celebration. We came to know that they do this very often for visitors who come there for special occasions.

Happy anniversary…

Next morning our plan was to visit the three special features of the hotel which are the mini Tea Factory, Railway carriage restaurant and the Rose garden. After the breakfast we spend some time in the garden to enjoy the morning scenery and rushed to the Mini Tea Factory.

Hotel surrounded by this enchanting Tea garden

Another view

A Tea flower

Relax

Grass ‘carving’

Landscapes

Garden too ‘powered’ by an engine

Mini Tea Factory

It is located near the hotel and used to process Tea grown in the 25 acre Tea garden around the hotel. Tea produced here is organic and they produce Orthodox Black Tea (Tea which we consume generally), Green Tea and Silver Tips.

Let us see the production process of Orthodox Black Tea step by step.

1. Withering

Plucked fresh Tea comprises of the bud and the first too leaves of the succulent shoots. After transporting to the factory, this plucked Tea is loaded on to withering troughs. The troughs are made up of steel. Bottom of a trough is made up of a mesh and air could be pumped underneath and released through the top of the trough through the mesh.

Withering trough

Fresh Tea leaves are loaded on to the mesh. Note the air blower fixed to the end of the trough. It pumps air underneath the mesh which flows out through the mesh brushing the loaded fresh leaves

Fresh Tea leaves loaded on to this trough and air is pumped underneath to flow out through the mesh brushing Tea leaves. (The air blowers and other machinery of a Tea factory are powered by electricity). This results in removal of moisture from the fresh leaves. Moisture content of the leaves is brought down to 55% approximately. This softens the leaves facilitating the next step of processing. This moisture reduction of the fresh leaves is essential for the optimal development of bio chemical compounds through enzymatic reactions which determines the quality parameters of made Tea. Well withered leaves will twist while rolling rather than breaking. Tea from the fresh leaf is bitter but sweetness develops when withered. Withering time varies from 15 to 24 hours depending on the weather condition.

2. Rolling

Withered Tea leaves are loaded on to a heavy machine called the Roller. This is just like a thick pestle like structure rotating above a round table with a small gap between each other. This rotation is not around its axis. It is a move on a circular path above the table. Due to this rotation, withered Tea leaves which are loaded on to the surface of the table are rolled over and twisted.

The Roller

Closer look.. Withered Tea leaves are rolled on the brass plates

This breaks cell walls of the leaves and lets the cell compounds mix up which activates enzymatic reactions. This starts the process of producing the flavor and strength of Tea through biochemical reactions which is called fermentation.

Rolling cycle involves applying pressure and releasing while rotating. This results in a spread of cell sap on rolled Tea which will dissolve in water when making Tea and gives the flavor and strength. While rolling the green color of fresh leaves turn out to brown coppery colored texture.

Twisting brings about the curly nature of Tea particles.

3. Roll Breaking

Rolled Tea is then loaded on to the Roll Breaker. It is a simple sloping table with a mesh which shakes horizontally at a high speed. Through the mesh, fine Tea particles will move to the container down and the remaining will be loaded to the roller again.

The Roll Breaker

4. Fermentation

Then fine Tea particles collected after roll breaking are laid on the fermentation table or a separate floor (This is just a clean elevated floor or a wooden trough) for around 3-4 hours. During this period, enzymatic reactions happen further and it develops the bio chemical compounds that give the strength and flavor of made Tea to the optimum level. This is where the black color of made Tea is developed.

Fermentation Table

5. Drying

After allowing to ferment up to the required level, Tea is then passed through a dryer where forced hot air passes over Tea particles. Due to the heat, enzymes are deactivated and it stops further fermentation. This in addition reduces moisture content of the Tea particles to 2-3% which is favorable for storage.

The Dryer

6. Cleaning and Grading (Sifting)

After drying, Tea particles are sent through a machine called the Stalk Extractor to remove stalks, discolored particles and inert matter. Dried tea is conveyed under a rotating metal drum which has a static electric charge. Inert matter mixed with Tea particles sticks on to the drum and Tea particles move out. The unusable stuff removed here is called ‘කසල තේ’. These are used to produce compost.

The Stalk Extractor

Closer look.. See the drum with inert matter

Now we have black Tea. But Tea particles here are of different shapes and sizes. To get the ultimate market value, this should be sorted into grades. Dried Tea is sorted in to grades by passing them through a series of vibrating meshes of different sizes. This mesh complex is called the Sifter. Here, Tea is separated into several grades. There are 12-15 grades of Tea.

The Sifter used for Tea grading

Examples for Tea grades:

• Pekoe
• OP (Orange Pekoe)
• BOP (Broken Orange Pekoe)
• BOPF (Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings)
• Dust No. 01
• Dust No. 02, etc.

Particle size reduces from top to bottom. Pekoe is leafy and the dust grades are fine particles.

Tea of all grades is of same quality. But flavor and strength varies with the grade. Qualities of Tea are different from grade to grade. Grades with larger particle sizes have more flavour (Aroma and Taste) and less strength. Grades with small particle sizes have less flavor but more strength. Usually people in Russia, Japan, Europe prefer Tea with more flavor than strength. People in Middle east and Asia prefer more strength than flavor.

7. Packaging

Finally, the graded Tea is weighed and packed into plywood chests, multi walled paper bags or corrugated cardboard cartons which are lined with aluminum foils from inside. Paper bags are more popular nowadays. In each chest, bag or carton, details such as the plantation name, Brand, grade of tea, weight, invoice number, etc., are marked. With this it winds up the process of manufacturing Orthodox Black Tea and the tea in the chests is called the ‘Made Tea’. From 100kg of fresh leaves, can produce 22-25kg of made Tea.

This packed Tea is auctioned at the Colombo Tea auction from where large scale traders and exporters buy Tea. They blend different types of Tea and market Tea under different brands.

A Tea chest. It contains made Tea. Brand – Hethersett, Grade – BOP

Packed tea. These are for retail sale. Not for Colombo tea auction.

Some highlights from the history of Ceylon Tea

• 1867 Beginning of Sri Lanka’s Tea industry. Tea was first planted by Mr. James Taylor on a land of 19 acres at Loolecondera Estate, Deltota.
• 1873 First shipment of 23 lbs of Tea to London from Loolecondera Estate.
• 1883 First Tea auction was held. Tea production at that time was around 2 million pounds annually.
• 1884 Construction of a central Tea factory on Fair Land Estate (Now Pedro) in Nuwara Eliya.
• 1925 Establishment of the Tea Research Institute
• 1961 Extent of Tea lands in Sri Lanka exceeded 200,000 hectares and Tea exports exceeded 200,000 metric tons.
• 1965 Sri Lanka became the worlds’ largest Tea exporter for the first time surpassing India.
• 1976 Exportation of Tea bags from Sri Lanka Commenced. Sri Lanka Tea Board and Tea Small Holder Development Authority established.
• 1982 Sri Lanka was the official supplier of Tea at the 12th Commonwealth games held in Brisbane, Australia.
• 1990 Sri Lanka became the largest tea exporter of the world for the second time.

CTK 5608 – The Railway carriage restaurant

In the British era there had been a railway from Nanuoya to Ragala via Nuwara Eliya and Kandapola. This railway had been used to transport Tea to Colombo. This is not the ordinary railway but the smaller one similar to that ran from Avissawella to Opanayake. This railway had been removed later.

Map of original railway lines in the up country. Note the railway line from Nanu Oya to Ragala 1903-1948

A railway carriage used for transport in this railway has been placed now at Heritance Tea Factory as a restaurant. From the main restaurant there is a way to enter the railway carriage and the entrance is named as Hethersett Railway Station.

TCK 6685 Railway Carriage restaurant

The entrance. 6,850 feet above MSL

Dining there is another different experience as it is arranged in a way that they feel like traveling in a train driven by a steam engine. The sound and vibrations are heard and felt by the passengers which is done through sound effects and mechanical vibrations. Staff serving there is dressed as railway crew. Dining in it is just like a 4D movie.

Inside the colonial history

Well equipped for a grand ride

Rose Garden

Then we went to have a walk around their rose garden. Photos will speak for the rest.

On the way…

Ready to fly…

Together…

Colorful…

Contrast…

At the hotel you can have a pony ride too (They charge Rs. 500/- for ½ km ride). In addition, any one can try plucking Tea in the surrounding Tea garden as a conventional Tea plucker.

As our check out time was getting closer, we had to wind up these fantastic morning hours. We got back to the room and packed our stuff and after a refreshing bath we started our return journey with the intention of coming back for the third time next year (This was our second visit).

Our return journey was via Ella. So, on the way we witnessed the beauty of the Ella Gap and the Ravana Falls (Correct name: Bambaragala Falls).

Ella Gap

Rawana falls

After spending around a half an hour at Rawana Falls we continued the return journey with memories of another splendid week end spent among Tea… Tea… and Tea…