The very idea of being able to visit Delft was so exiting since it has been relatively inaccessible for a long time. We were all excited in spite of being forewarned about having to forego the usual creature comforts that we were all accustmed to when on holiday. The varied sites all within this island also stirred our curiosity.

Eight of us, together with our van driver and a guide from Jaffna, visited Delft Island in September 2010. Since we were forewarned that the trip would be arduous the participants were restricted to male adults and in foresight fortunately so. Delft island is the largest of the islands and is also known as Nedunthivu (large island). It is approx 3 miles wide and 8 miles long and is 4,717 hectares in extent.

We left from Colombo on the 9th September at 1700 hours by van, had hoppers for dinner on the way and stayed the night at the rather spartan Nuwara Wewa Rest House at Anuradhapura. Early next morning we walked down the nuwara wewa tank bund to observe birds and take in the scenic morning view of the wewa. After a heavy breakfast at 0700 hours we left from Nuwara Wewa rest house at 0800 hours for the long drive to Jaffna, passing Vavuniya, Killinochchi and Elephant Pass. We arrived in Jaffna at 1300 hours and after picking up some snacks for lunch drove down through the Pannai causeway to Kayts island and then onto Punguduthivu.

A budget traveler could utilize the time more efficiently by boarding one of the many overnight buses to reach Jaffna early next morning. There are CTB buses from Jaffna town to the Karaikattuvan jetty. The fare is Rs.35/= and it takes about 1 ½ hours; well in time to catch the ferry.

We reached the Karaikattuvan jetty on Punguduthivu on 10th September 2010 at about 1445 hours. This is the same jetty from which pilgrims depart to Nagadeepa, which is visible at a distance.

The ferry service on the left side of the jetty to Delft is very much less frequent than the one on the right side to Nagadeepa. It is important to catch the ferry on time since missing it would mean a trip back to Jaffna or to hire a private fishing boat costing Rs.3,000/=. The Kandiah ferry operates on Thursday and Friday costing Rs.60/= each and the RDA (free service) and Co-operative (Rs.70/=) ferries operate on other days.

The departure times are as follows:-

The travel time to Delft, 10 km away, is approx 1 ½ hours and about 1 hour on the return journey due to the changed wind direction. The ferry was crowded and locals returning to Delft are given preference since they need to get back home. Make sure that you are at the jetty well ahead of time and a bit of help from the Navy personnel is a great help.

The ferry service on the left side of the jetty is to Delft

The travel time to Delft, 10 km away, is approx 1 ½ hours and about 1 hour on the return journey due to the changed wind direction

The ferry boat was crowded with men, women and children seated all over with their bags and baggage, including some who were seated on top of our baggage. A quick head count was taken to determine the load and a motor cycle was off loaded due to the heavy load. All passengers are obliged to wear life jackets and the boat was not allowed to leave until everybody had done so. However most of the passengers removed the jackets once the boat left the jetty! – and so we blame the authorities when a ferry capsizes in bad weather! We were fortunate to have been met at the Delft jetty by the Lieutenant Navy Commander and the Catholic Priest who were both very helpful during our visit.

The ferry boat was crowded with men, women and children seated all over with their bags and baggage

The Navy personnel manning the jetty, thankfully, maintain order at the jetty. There was a seemingly endless line of people going to Nagadeepa and the vehicle park was full of buses and vans. About five ferries were operating from morning to evening and were loading and unloading at a great pace. Given the maddening ways of crowd behavior, the Navy personnel at the jetty were doing yeoman service in managing the jetty service in an orderly manner – their patience under these trying circumstances is truly remarkable.

Delft island is relatively flat and is made up of weathered coral. There are fruit trees such as mango, papaw and bananas growing on the island and in some areas paddy is cultivated in the rainy season. Coconut and Palmyra trees abound and uninhabited areas are generally covered with dry zone type scrub jungle vegetation.

Delft island is relatively flat and is made up of weathered coral

The famous tree in Delft

The famous tree in Delft is the Baobab tree which has a hollow into which one could walk in upright and the space inside could hold about six standing adults. Unfortunately this tree bore the scars of recent vandalism with names and initials engraved on its trunk. It may need to be protected by a barbed wire fence. Perhaps an informational board indicating its historic origins might be helpful in protecting this tree.

There was one CTB bus on the island and we saw two trishaws. The principal way of traveling for a large crowd, such as the ten of us, was in a trailer pulled by a two wheel tractor engine – called a Land Master. The trailer seat is a long wooden plank reinforced with a strip of L iron and long trips are quite a punishment on the bum. A cushion would have been a savior. Yours truly opted to ride shotgun by the side of the driver and was hit on the calf whenever the driver turned the huge handle bars to steer it round a bend. I learned to sit sideways and cling onto the trailer to dodge the handle bars. Most of the roads are tarred and the main visiting sites are approachable by road. It is necessary that a local guide or driver knowing the location of the visiting sites be engaged since the locations are not sign posted nor are the roads named. We could not find any map either.

The principal way of traveling for a large crowd, such as the ten of us, was in a trailer pulled by a two wheel tractor engine - called a Land Master

A cushion would have been a savior

The northern and central parts of the island are those that are mainly inhabited. The main source of income for the residents is by fishing. Fish mudalali’s buy the days catch and transport it by motor boat to the cold storage plant on Punguduthivu which is operated by a Fishermen’s Co-operative. The fish, mainly various type of paraw, is usually sent by freezer truck for sale in Colombo. The fish from this area is reputed to be of good quality and the fishing was reported to be good.

The main source of income for the residents is by fishing

The main source of income for the residents is by fishing

The main source of income for the residents is by fishing

The residents are mainly Tamil speaking Catholics and many Catholic churches are found all around the island. A post office, a hospital, a police station, Hindu temples, a catholic convent, primary schools, a co-operative shop and Navy camps were also seen. The few village style boutiques and shops sell all types of consumer goods including bottled water, vegetables, fruits, groceries, soft drinks, biscuits, chocolates, stationery, crockery, bicycle spares, petrol, diesel etc. Almost all these goods are brought to Delft from the mainland.

Many Catholic churches are found all around the island

The few village style boutiques and shops sell all types of consumer goods

The water is mainly brackish and not suitable for drinking; clothes washed in this water takes quite a while to dry and seems to retain a bit of dampness due to the salt content. Potable water is available in wells situated in certain parts of the island. A bowser load presently costs Rs.800/= and cement water tanks are used by residents to store this water which is then shared amongst them. The water tap was paddlocked and an old man supervised the distribution. Take plenty of drinking water on your visit; a large 5 litre bottle and a smaller one to carry around, is a good idea. Be mindful of the crowded ferry boat ride and the obvious need to minimize baggage.

Electricity is provided by a CEB generator which operates from 0430 to 2300 hours, which meant that there were no fans at night. Take a good torch in case you need to visit the toilet at night.

Potable water is available in wells situated in certain parts of the island

Electricity is provided by a CEB generator

Accommodation on Delft is difficult to obtain and prior arrangements should be made. We stayed in a private residence with the permission of the owner who was away in the mainland with the rest of the family; his children were schooling in Jaffna. The householder who was living alone had not bothered to fix the toilet door and we had to make do with the door leaning against half the entrance. A towel was hung on the door to indicate occupancy. The well was at the front part of the house and adequate water was available though the plastic bucket was a bit un-cooperative. Two beds and mats were available and we spread out over the two bedrooms and the living room. Mosquito coils were lit as a safety precaution. A nominal payment was made to the householder for our stay.

The householder who was living alone had not bothered to fix the toilet door !

The well was at the front part of the house

we spread out over the two bedrooms and the living room

Our guide made arrangements with another householder to cook our meals with the provisions purchased by him. Fish was generally available in plenty and the fried fish was appreciated by all. Crab curry was also a welcome addition for lunch. Going local, we had Sittu Kalli for breakfast – flat red rice disks, about 1 inch in diameter, in a thick porridge sweetened with sugar. We also had the traditional Kool, with fish and vegetables for lunch. Some of us took this to be somewhat like a Chinese soup and were waiting in vain for a serving of rice. Traditional Kool is a full meal in itself – it usually has prawns, kos atta and crab as well. We were informed that cuttle fish was available only in season and that the local fishermen lacked the expertise to catch prawns; there was plenty of fish to be caught and they had not diversified their operations as yet!

Sittu Kalli for breakfast – flat red rice disks, about 1 inch in diameter, in a thick porridge sweetened with sugar

The Dutch Fort ruins is situated within the Hospital premises and is approached through the main entrance to the hospital and then going along its long corridor. The fort which is quite small is in a bad state, overgrown with weeds and there appeared to be recent signs of rock removal. We had heard of reports of the ruins of a Portuguese Fort but the Police, Navy nor other residents seemed to be aware of this.

Close to the Kachcheri the Pigeon House is found. Apparently carrier pigeons were used by the Dutch to communicate with the mainland. This is quite quaint and still retains its unique form. It definitely deserves preservation by the authorities.

The Dutch Fort ruins is situated within the Hospital premises

Pigeon House of carrier pigeons used by the Dutch to communicate with the mainland

The ruins of three Buddhist dagabas were located quite far away. Only the base of these dagabas now remain and one base is hardy visible and has been protected by a barbed wire fence. The other two bases were quite visible, particularly the smaller dagaba.

Only the base of these dagabas now remain

The other two bases were quite visible, particularly the smaller dagaba.

The giants foot-print is referred to by locals as the foot print of a 40 foot tall man. They also allege that a similar foot print is to be found in Nagadeepa. The photo indicates the size of the depression in the rock when compared to the foot of yours truly. Skeptics amongst us started visualizing giant hand prints etc in the surrounding area. The rock in this area is quite different from other areas – like hardened bluish grey ash. Perhaps some chemical analysis may shed some light. This foot print is on private property and quite conveniently the boundary wall was already broken, providing easy access.

The giants foot-print

The growing rock a shaped bit like the hood of a cobra and is worshiped by the Hindus who offer pooja from the nearby temple. According to our land master driver it had grown about 1 ½ feet since he saw it as a child. We were also shown a rock in the sea quite close to the shore which was also stated to be growing. It was shaped like a canoe and its growth could be explained as being due to calcite build up from the water that pours over it.

The growing rock

We were also shown a rock in the sea quite close to the shore which was also stated to be growing

Large lake like areas were also seen inland, one of which had some water. Brown headed gulls and black winged stilt were observed together with many other waders. Closer approach was not possible due to the clinging slippery mud. We were informed that these waters were filled with many birds including flamingos during the migrant season. Grey partridge and yellow wattled lapwing were observed in the dry bushy areas. Many brahminy kite, shikra and white bellied sea eagles were also seen.

The fabled wild Delft ponies are usually found in the vast open fields towards the south of the island. We visited in the heat of the forenoon and saw a number of ponies in little groups. They are stated to gather in larger numbers towards evening. Sadly on enlarging the photographs some of the ponies were seen to have been branded and the markings were quite large and ugly. These ponies are our heritage from the times of the Portuguese, the Dutch and the English who are reported to have been breeding them quite successfully on the island. These ponies looked quite healthy and well fed and did have a certain wild and fresh look about them. They were certainly quite good to look at. Perhaps the authorities could take steps to protect them and their habitat.

Large lake like areas were also seen inland

The fabled wild Delft ponies are usually found in the vast open fields

A unique and unforgettable feature of Delft are its boundary walls which are made of coral rocks plied one on top of another. No motar is used to bind the stones and the stones are so cleverly placed that these walls are quite strong.

unforgettable feature of Delft are its boundary walls

boundary walls are made of coral rocks

We had also hear about a sand boa python, to be seen in the remoter areas. Local residents could not however provide any further information on this other that to state that a large viper, the description of which fitted a sand viper, was to be found in certain sandy areas. We did not encounter any snakes during our visit.

We took the return ferry from Delft on 13th September 2010 at 0700 hours, reaching Karaikattuvan jetty on Pungudutivu at 0800 hours and arrived in Jaffna by van at 0930 hours for a late breakfast of string hoppers, pittu and plenty of devilled prawns. Thereafter we drove back to Colombo having lunch on the way, reaching Colombo by 2115 hours – a long 396 km drive.

A very eventful trip, unique in every way and well appreciated by all of us.